Hands-On Review of the New Gem-Set Royal Oaks 2023

October 03, 2023

This week Audemars Piguet unveiled its new fully pav set Jumbo ultra-thin in white gold. It also released a yellow sapphire on yellow gold version but I didn't get a chance to peep that (still waiting to peep the rainbow set too, which at this point is likely never happening C sigh). AP then did a very welcome and very democratic thing by releasing two additional Haute Joaillerie timepieces in 34mm and 37mm both in pink or white gold, covered with various-sized brilliant-cut diamonds (this is called snowdrop setting in gem-speak). The Jumbo is crafted in 18k white gold and decorated with 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and comes equipped with the caliber 7121. The 34mm models also represent the first fully gem-set timepieces available in this diameter: The total jewel count of the watch pictured below stands at 2,255 brilliant-cut diamonds (~6.6k). That's a lot of snowdrop set diamonds. Which means the watch is basically glowing in broad daylight. It comes equipped with the caliber 5809. What We Think A gem-set release from Le Brassus always feels like a special occasion. One of those events that has about zero relevance to my actual reality but is still spiritually important. Like a royal wedding, or, if we were living back in the 1900s, a high society debutante ball. Regal and shiny and fun to look at. A little beacon of hope for me to latch myself onto.? Naturally, I tried both on and, naturally, my reaction was somewhere along the lines of ?"please don't make me take this off my wrist." I have a new identity and it's all tied up in this watch, like somebody who got upgraded to Business Class on a fluke and was never able to make the right turn back to coach ever again. I was massively affected. Ok, so I know I said I hate rose gold, more than once. But I am full of contradictions. Plus what's not to love about a watch covered in diamonds? You can barely see the metal anyway. And while I'm not really a pav girl, I like pav when done right. Or rhinestones (the poor man's pav - don't hate) or anything that is covered in any shaped crystal or diamond. Now I can add snow-drop setting to my long list of jewel-incrusted obsessions along with Ala?a flats and tooth gems and Judith Lieber cell phone-shaped bags. Juicy diamond setting aside, let's crash back down to real analytics: My biggest takeaway from the press preview here in NYC a few weeks ago was just how well AP is catering to the smaller wrist crowd. I am careful not to say these new novelties are women-focused, but a 34mm white ceramic, a 38mm Code, and now a 34mm pav, sounds like they have been doing their market research I would wear the 34mm watch if I were Hayley Bieber, Dolly Parton or Liberace (RIP) or Lil Uzi Vert. The gamut is wide. The Basics Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Royal Oak Reference Number:77452OR.ZZ.1365OR.01; 16202BC.ZZ.1241BC.01Diameter: 34, and 39mmThickness: 9.2 mm; 8.1 mmCase Material: White gold and Pink GoldIndexes: Diamond Lume: YesStrap/Bracelet: folding clasp bracelet? The Movement Caliber: 5809 + 7121Functions: hours, minutes and seconds; hours and minutes and date Diameter: 23.9 mm; 29.6 mmThickness: 4mm; 3.19 mmPower Reserve: 50 hours; 55 hoursWinding: self-winding; self-winding Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour); 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)Jewels: 28; 33 Pricing & Availability Price: Pink gold 34mm $198,000; White gold "Jumbo" 39mm $175,000Limited Edition: YesFor more, click here.