The Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rtrograde 7097

March 19, 2015

There are a lot of intense words in Breguet's press release for this watch C "outstanding," "faultless," "peened" C that lead me to believe they are still basking in the glow of that 2014 Grand Prix Aiguille d'Or. Make no mistake, however C the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rtrograde (which makes its formal debut at Baselworld) is a very different watch than the Classique Chronomtrie that took home the watch industry's top honors. The movement is exposed, resulting in a cool, neo-luxury look with fine movement specs to back it all up. In contrast to the complex movement on display, the shape of the 40 mm, 18k white-gold case is simple and straight-forward, with a perfectly circular polished bezel and straight lugs (with a little bevel at the end). The dial at 12 o'clock for the hours and minutes features an engine-turned detail around the circumference, a circular brushed finish underneath the black Roman hour numerals, and hobnail-guilloch in the center. This dial is intersected by a semi-circular scale for the retrograde seconds display at 10 o'clock. Both indications feature blued-steel hands (though only the hours and minute hands get those special Breguet open tips). The self-winding movement, caliber 505SR1, offers 50 hours of power reserve, generated by a gold winding mass. (On the back of the watch, a sapphire crystal case back allows you to view the the winding mass as it rotates around the watch.) In addition to a silicon "Breguet overcoil" hairspring, the movement features a retrograde seconds function and inverted lever escapement. With the movement on full display, Breguet's choice of finishing for the bridges and baseplate is rather modern. The industrial-looking decoration on these components is the result of "peening" C a type of finishing that results in a textured, stubbly surface.In addition to the white-gold model seen here, the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rtrograde 7097 will also be available in 18k rose gold.For more information, visit Breguet online.