Bring a Loupe: A Wittnauer Ref. 242T, A '90s Cartier Crash, And A Rare Polerouter

November 29, 2019

Its time once again to see whats up for grabs in the world of vintage watches. Theres a little something for everyone this week, with rare picks ranging from a heavily lumed Universal Genve Polerouter, to a hens teeth Wittnauer chronograph, and even a limited-edition reissue of the famed Cartier Crash. To further spice things up, theres also a double-signed example of the original Navitimer reference, in addition to a piece of A. Lange & Sohne associated literature. Lets get down to it.? Wittnauer Ref. 242T Waxing on about Valjoux 72-powered watches seems clich at this stage of the game in watch media, but it really is one of the finest chronograph calibers ever produced. Between its stunning architecture, reliability, and the ease with which it can be serviced, its a home run of precision mechanical engineering. If you skipped past the header, fear not, theres no Daytona hyping in store. Instead, lets take a moment to focus on a seldom seen version of an eccentric chronograph that has the Valjoux 72 movement at its heart.? Those who subscribe to the vintage Rolex lexicon might refer to this configuration as a solo dial, in that, unlike the bulk of Ref. 242Ts to have been produced by Wittnauer, it lacks the printed script reading Genve, along with the inner dotted track. I go back and forth on which variant of the watch I prefer. ?The more common dotted examples have a decidedly unique vibe, but if rarity is your trip, then this is the watch for you. There are no two ways about it youre bound to see far less of this configuration out and about, though Ive yet to find a place where 242Ts are regular sightings on the street.? If on top of rarity youre also a stickler for condition, this could also be the watch for you. Aside from a single scuff inside the minute-tracking register, its dial is pretty much spotless. As youd hope for, all luminous applications remain intact, and its case lines remain boldly visible, indicating it was taken care of over the years. While admittedly unrelated to the watch itself, I must say I appreciate the in-depth nature of the listing, especially for a forum piece. Its always nice to see someone take the time to give the full scoop.? A collector based out of New York has listed this piece on the Omega Forum for $15,500, and is open to offers. Contact info and additional photos can be found here.? 1991 Cartier Crash Ref. 154-91 Sometimes fate has a master plan, and sometimes that plan involves a deadly watch design. As the story goes, the original executions of the now unmistakable-for-anything-else Cartier Crash began its life as a Baignoire Allong on the wrist of an executive at the brand. Following a lethal car accident, the watch on this individuals wrist was left deformed in an eerily similar manner to the melting pocket watch in Salvador Dals 1931 surrealist painting, The Persistence of Memory. This deadly incident inspired Cartier to produce a watch in the executives memory, resulting in one of the single most powerful watch designs of the century.? Although not a true OG Crash that wouldve been released in the late 60s, this piece is still exceedingly rare and desirable, if you ask me. This example dates back to 1991, when it was offered to top clients of the brand in a limited edition of just 400 pieces. Individual numbers are discreetly noted on the caseback, next to the number 91 indicating the year of production, and on the papers which accompany the watch, noting the limited editions total size. Today, getting your hands on a more modern interpretation of the model is anything but easy. The brands London boutique (where theyre exclusively sold) requires a full-cost deposit and a multiple-year wait.? What I like most about this example is that its clean and complete. It might not be the rare platinum variant from the 400-piece production run, but it remains unpolished, and comes with all of its original boxes and papers. Besides, Id argue that those cased in yellow gold are perhaps more iconic to the spirit of the model, because, upon mention of this design, Im always going to think of a yellow-gold watch. Taking its rarity, appearance, and unconventional origins into account, it truly is one of those watches that screams Ive got taste, and Im not messing around when spotted in the wild.? Youll find this surrealist Cartier in the catalog of Fortuna Auctions upcoming New York sale, with an estimate of $30K $50K. Get the full scoop here.? 1955 Universal Genve Polerouter Ref. 20217-8 I can appreciate just about anyone, of any ilk, who is genuinely passionate about something. For this reason, Ive always had a deep respect for collectors who focus on one specific model, making it their mission to learn all the ins, outs, and what-have-yous. Polerouter collectors are one such flock. Many seem on a never-ending quest to understand Gerald Gentas original design in its entirety. Given that the models production spanned a sizeable number of references, theres a lot to take in, but few are as captivating as the Ref. 20217-8 from the mid 1950s. Those that dig a hefty helping of lume will surely enjoy this one.? The case shape and crosshair detailed dial may be familiar. But, unlike the majority of other Polerouter references, this watch is distinguished by two defining traits. The first is nearly impossible to miss. Like the most desirable of early Omega sports pieces, this reference is fitted with luminous Broad Arrow hands that make the watch considerably more legible than its more common, dauphine-handed cousins. While on the topic of luminous and legible, lets address the 12, gigantic applications of radium which surround the dial. This is what has earned the Ref. 20217-8 such a legendary status among Polerouter collectors.? Back in 1955, this wouldve been seen as a revolutionary design, as luminous compounds on wristwatches were quite sparingly applied, for the most part. Also worth noting is that this was likely an experimental timepiece of sorts. As a result of the engine-turned detailing which can be seen beneath the radium in certain areas, one can infer that Universal Genve ?manufactured these watches without a reference-specific dial, so as to test the markets waters before going all in on a lume-heavy variant. If a real top of the heap Polerouter is what youre after, look no further. Berlins SHUCKTHEOYSTER is offering this rare Universal Genve with an asking price of 12,500. The full listing can be found on their site.? Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 LIP Following the sale of Tiffany to LVMH, theres been a good bit of hubbub over what that means for the retailers relationship with Patek Philippe, and their double-signed dials. Personally, Id be willing to bet this acquisition has no impact whatsoever on the coveted reference variants, but a parting of ways is indeed possible. Rather than speculate about a potential separation, lets keep things moving with the story of a watch bearing two noteworthy names in horological history. While theres no Calatrava cross on the dial of this next piece, it still ought to pique your interest and then some.? Youre looking at a Ref. 806 Navitimer by Breitling, but what sets it apart from the rest is the small LIP signature thats wedged between the text reading GENEVE and the vintage chronographs hand stack. LIP was a French watchmaker, with a documented history of innovation, but in the case of this Navitimer, the brand served as a middleman of sorts. The partnership came as a result of Willy Breitlings desire to increase Breitlings presence in France, and what better way to do so than by joining forces with one of Frances top watchmakers. After receiving the now desirable extra dial signature, Breitlings offerings were distributed through LIPs French sales network.? If youve been after one of these for a while, this is where your hunt ends. With an unpolished case, spotless dial, and evenly aged luminous applications, itll be quite hard to track down one better than this example. Even the scalloped edge of its slide rule bezel is sharp and well defined, suggesting that it was likely worn with extreme care, or barely worn at all over the years. Whats more, is its being sold with the Navitimer brochure that accompanied the original purchase, making it a little more complete than your run-of-the-mill example.? The dealer and Navitimer authority Rob Cooper has this example listed for $4,950. More information can be found on his Instagram page. Shoot him an offer here.? Ferdinand Adolph Lange Memorial Booklet In a recent conversation with a friend, who is one of the vintage watch scenes foremost experts, we discussed how vintage marketing materials and brand paperwork might be cooler than the watches themselves. As Ive noted before, its wildly fascinating to explore how our beloved watchmakers forged their legacy in print, and shaped the way theyre now seen by the masses. I thought wed wrap things up with a booklet I found coming up at auction, which recounts the life and influence of the man who founded A. Lange & Sohne C Ferdinand Adolph Lange.? Simply put, the man is a legend, and is largely responsible for the rise of the watchmaking industry in Glashtte today. Back in 1845, Lange set up shop in the Saxon town with the intention of turning things around after the region had hit hard times. The quickly thriving craft of watchmaking brought new industry to the town. Lange also served as Glashttes mayor for nearly two decades, proving his commitment to the people.? Henrys Auktionshaus of Mutterstadt will offer this piece of German watchmaking history in a sale on the 7th of December. More details, along with the rest of the catalog, can be found here.