Bring a Loupe: An 18k Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus, A Rolex Milgauss For CERN, And A Universal Genve Compax 'Nina Rindt'

October 26, 2018

This week, it's mostly so-called "professional" watches C those designed with a specific occupation or pursuit in mind C that have caught our attention. Sure, there's a stunning gold classic thrown in for good measure, but whether it's something like a Universal Genve "Nina Rindt" meant for racers or the Vulcain Cricket Nautical meant for divers, we wanted to bring you pieces that were born to, you know, do something. For those a bit less inclined to venture into the air or the sea, there's a Rolex designed for more scholarly pursuits too. Let's get into it. Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 'Big Triangle' Auction season has officially begun, with previews taking place, catalog releases, and sales both in the room and online in full swing. Records are already being broken, as weve seemingly come to expect, and its only all just getting started. Christies launched an online sale just a few days ago, with many compelling watches to be had. Of all the watches in the sale, its the diving pieces that have stood out to me the most, and understandably so as youll soon see.?Omega Seamasters represent a compelling alternative to the Rolex Submariner, and also has a rich history of military use, involvement in commercial diving applications, and celebrity association. This example of the ST 165.024 is whats known as a Big Triangle for obvious reasons, though it should be noted that it represents one of the more scarce classes of Seamaster 300 collecting.? Overall, this is both an honest and attractive example of the large triangle boasting, pioneering dive watch, with a defined case architecture and a bakelite bezel that has now taken on a blue-blue-is hue to it. Ill be watching to see where this one ends up.?Just under 12 days remain to bid on this Omega, which is currently at $8,000 at the time of publishing. Click here for the full details. 1970 Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 With CERN Dial While I cant say I even remotely understand particle physics, and I wont even begin to pretend as if I do, Ive always been fascinated by what goes on at CERN and the interpretation of data yielded by the organizations Large Hadron Collider. Upon first getting into watches and becoming familiar with the ins, outs, and what-have-yous of vintage Rolex, it came as a welcome discovery to learn of the Milgausss association with CERN, and this variant which now bears the famous lab's name.Coming from the same Christie's sale as the Omega bove, this example of the ref. 1019 Milgauss has what Rolex devotees refer to as a CERN dial. Milgausses as a whole have an innate association with CERN, in that their labs were among to confirm its 1,000 gauss resistant capabilities, but this watch takes it one step further, thanks to the presence of a specially manufactured, non-luminous dial, due to radioactivity restrictions within the aforementioned nuclear research facility. Condition wise, theres a lot to like, including the case on this example, which is as thick as can be. Just look at the top brushed surface! It also happens to look quite nice on the Jubilee bracelet, which were glad to see being celebrated by the mainstream once again.?The starting bid on this ref. 1019 stands at $10,000 at the time of publishing. Find the full listing here. Universal Genve Compax 'Nina Rindt' As far as chronographs go, few are more striking than the Nina Rindt Compax, both on the wrist and on paper. No, its not a Daytona killer, and it never will be, but it has just about everything you could ask for in a quality vintage chrono. Panda dial and bezel configuration? Check. Robust Valjoux 72 beating at its heart? Check. Timeless aesthetics? Big old check. While Universal Genve wasnt by any means the first to produce a chronograph along these lines, they were simply one of the best, as the current market will certainly confirm.?If youve ever considered picking up a Rindt Compax, but have held out in search of a better example, hold out no more, as weve come across quite the specimen. Dating back roughly to 1967, this example of the Ref. 885.103/02 would appear to have a flawless dial, a clean bezel, and a relatively lightly polished case, all making for an awfully attractive watch. With all that said, what really caught my eye on this piece was the original Universal Genve signed bracelet manufactured by JB Champion. Its not often that you find examples fitted with a bracelet, and this one looks to be nothing short of stunning, in terms of both aesthetics and construction. As the saying goes, they dont make em like they used to.This example of the Nina Rindt is being offered at R.O. Schmitt Fine Arts in Manchester, New Hampshire, this upcoming Sunday. The bid is currently at $8,500 and you can see the full listing here. 1960 Vulcain Cricket Nautical Ref. S 2321 A On HODINKEE, Vulcains Cricket alarm-equipped watch has already been discussed and studied extensively, as a result of both the value these watches still offer in todays market, and their storied past of Presidential use. Off land, Vulcain also made waves in the dive watch space with the same Cricket mechanics, but worked into a far more sporty package, altogether. The watch I speak of is known as the Cricket Nautical, and is one of the absolute coolest dive watches ever produced, in my humble opinion. Not convinced? Just hold on.?In the dive watch market, there arent many comparably complicated watches. The Cricket Nautical not only features an alarm, but also a unique decompression scale which in addition to the printed scale uses a system of apertures in the dial to convey data. It also wears similarly to a modern piece on the wrist, seeing as the case measures 42 mm across, and is a chunky one with the domed crystal, at that.? This has to be one of if not the nicest example of the Cricket Nautical Ive come across, as its simply perfect. A collector who appreciates the lesser known innovators of the wide world of vintage horology will certainly appreciate this handsome dive watch.?Matthew Bain has this Cricket Nautical currently up for sale with an asking price of $22,125. Click here for the full scoop. 1985 Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800 In 18k Gold Pateks Nautilus is a hot watch right now, and its no secret. Want a new one in steel? Best of luck to you, dear reader, as getting one is known to be quite the ordeal. With this in mind, why not consider an older example thats perhaps a better value for your dollar?A good place to look is in the direction of the 38mm ref. 3800, which succeeded the original Ref. 3700. Like any other Nautilus, theyre an absolute joy on the wrist, blending elements that are equal parts subtle and luxurious, just in a slightly smaller size. In the case of this piece, it could be said that the scales are tipping in favor of luxury, which a single glance at the 18k yellow gold case will reinforce.? "Investment grade" would be the right way to describe this particular example, thanks to the original boxes, papers, and receipts that remain with the watch to this day. At a shade over the $30k mark, it makes you scratch your head upon comparing something like this to a newer reference in steel.?San Franciscos HQ Milton has this Ref. 3800 listed for $30,850. Click here for more info. 1960s Zodiac Sea Chron As a whole, Zodiac isnt one of the most sought-after brands in the vintage watch world, but with the SeaChron they simply got it right, and as a result these watches are incredibly desirable. They also happen to be rather rare, and those whove already got them are understandably reluctant to sell. Its been a while since I saw one surface for sale, but just the other day this piece popped up on eBay and I knew I had to include it here.The chronograph itself has somewhat of an ambiguous identity, due to the presence of both a tachymeter scale and a prominently displayed water resistance rating. Regardless of whether Zodiac intended this to be a drivers chronograph or a watch targeted at seafaring folk, its a smart looking watch. Little details like the austere, grey bezel and lollipop marking at 12 oclock really separate it from the rest of the competition.? Whats more, this example is in remarkable shape, with not only a case that looks to be unpolished, but also a near-perfect, largely unscathed bezel two things to be grateful for in the case of any vintage chronograph.?It also comes with a full complement of boxes and paperwork, which never hurt.An individual based out of Bellingham, Washington, has this watch listed on eBay. At the time of publishing, the bidding is up to $1,333. Click here for more.