Introducing: The Cartier Priv Collection Tank 'Asymtrique Skeleton'

April 24, 2020

The Cartier Priv Collection, which originally ran between 1998 and 2008, was a showcase for some of the most iconic models from Cartier's long history as a watchmaker and, just as importantly, one of the world's preeminent watch design houses as well. The Priv Collection this year has debuted a very exciting new version of that beloved cult-classic timepiece, the 1936 Tank Asymtrique. Along with the regular production limited editions, the company has also launched three skeletonized versions, using the in-house caliber 9623 MC. Each of the three models features the same version of the caliber, in which the vertical axis of the movement has the same 30o offset as the numerals on the asymmetrical dial. This arrangement has been characteristic of other recent Cartier skeleton watches, such as the Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time and, in this case, it further emphasizes the tilted dial and lozenge shape which are the signature of the Asymmtrique design. As with the regular production, non-skeleton watches, this version will be made as a limited edition, in three sets of 100 pieces, in platinum, platinum with diamonds, and pink gold. Initial Thoughts We remarked in our Introducing post to the standard (if there is such a thing) Priv Asymtrique that it was a niche watch version of a niche watch, in that non-round watches are already badly outnumbered by their round counterparts. I suppose on that view, you could say the Asymtrique Skeleton is a niche of a niche of a niche. It's an interesting variant on the basic Asymtrique design, in that I think it could easily have gone wrong C an openworked movement and open dial ought to be quite disruptive to the clean geometry so essential to the effect of the watch. Moreover, openworked watches are generally speaking more difficult to read than not, and to make an illegible version of the Asymtrique would have gone very much against the inspiration of the original 1936 design, which among other things was intended to make for a more natural experience when reading the time. Cartier, I think, really excels at doing openworked watches which overcomes this issue. One critical feature of its modern openworked watches is the way in which the hour markers are part of the movement bridge, which means they can be quite generous in size without obscuring the movement. (The Santos De Cartier Noctambule is an outstanding example.) You get both good legibility and good transparency and, of course, the latter is one of the basic criteria for evaluating an openworked watch. The strong diagonal axis created by the in-line arrangement of the mainspring barrel and balance also goes a long way towards successfully making an openworked Tank Asymtrique. The Basics Brand: Cartier Model: Priv Tank Asymtrique SkeletonDimensions: 47.15mm x 26.2mm, Thickness: 7.82mmCase Material: Platinum; platinum with 2.8 carats (250) of brilliant-cut diamonds with diamond cabochon; pink goldStrap/Bracelet: Blue and black alligator, or grey and brown alligator The Movement Caliber: 9623 MCFunctions: Hours, minutesDimensions: 32mm x 21.1mmThickness: 4.2mmPower Reserve: 48 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)Jewels: 22 Pricing & Availability Price: $70,000 (platinum); $61,000 (yellow gold); TBD (pink gold)Availability: TBDLimited Edition: 100 pieces of each versionFor more, visit Cartier.