The Grand Seiko SBGJ255 Heritage Collection Mechanical Hi-Beat GMT 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

January 18, 2022

The Grand Seiko Style design language was established with the birth of the 44GS in 1967, and it still drives the modern Grand Seiko design philosophy. The 44GS turns fifty-five in 2022, and Grand Seiko introduced the mechanical Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 limited edition to mark the occasion. According to Grand Seiko, the Japanese sense of aesthetic towards light is the foundation of its "Grammar of Design," and the following nine elements define it. 44GS (circa 1967). Photo Credit: Grand Seiko official site. - Double-width index at 12 o'clock- Multi-faceted rectangular markers- Highly polished bezel- Highly polished planes and two-dimensional surface- Half-recessed crown- Flat dial- Multi-faceted hour and minute hands- Curved Sideline- Reverse slanted bezel wall and case side Grand Seiko applied these elements to the new SBGJ255 while adapting a modern interpretation of the 44GS design. The new SBGJ255. The case is made of High-Intensity Titanium measuring 40mm wide and 14mm tall. Grand Seiko is known for the immaculate finishes on their case, bracelet, dial, and hands. Titanium is a tricky material to work with, but the manufacturer managed to achieve the sharp chamfers, evenly brushed finishing, and mirror-like polish that youve come to expect from the Grand Seiko brand on this piece. The original 44GS had a three-hand manual movement inside, but the SBGJ255 opted for the automatic GMT movement Cal. 9S86, which is a high-frequency movement ticking at 36,000 vph while securing approximately 55 hours of power reserve. The uniquely sculpted titanium rotor has been treated with a special anodic oxidation process, exhibiting a beautiful deep gold tone that you don't see elsewhere. At first glance, the dial may appear to be a simple white finish, but if you look closer, you'll be delighted to find super-subtle vertical grains on it. This unique texture is extremely hard to capture in a photo, and it will only reveal itself when the light hits the dial just right (enlarge the picture, above, to see for yourself). The only apparent accent on the dial is the blue key-color. There is a specific Grand Seiko blue that is part of their branding color scheme, but this blue is brighter than that. The GS logo, "GMT" text, 24-hour markers on the chapter ring, and the heat-blued GMT hand work in harmony. What We Think Although the new SBGJ255 is, of course, based on the design language of the 44GS, there are a couple of references in the modern lineup that served as the direct foundation of this watch: the SBGJ005, which won the Petite Aiguille category (for watches under 8,000 CHF) at the 2014 GPHG Awards, and its successor, SBGJ201. 2014 GPHG La Petite Aiguille award winner, SBGJ005. Both models featured a 44GS-inspired case and Cal. 9S86. The new SBGJ255 differs from its two predecessors in the case material and dial design. The earlier two models opted for stainless steel instead of titanium, and the SBGJ005 featured a Mount Iwate-pattern dial in green, while the SBGJ201 had the same pattern in white. You could say they are all variations of the same base watch. The interesting aspect of the new model is the use of blue GS logo on the dial, which isn't something we've seen in the past (at least I can't think of any other references off the top of my head). We've seen the use of gold color for the GS logo, but the blue logo feels like something really special, in a subtle way. Like the other Grand Seiko pieces, the watch does not go easy on the photographer. A flat plane-dominant design, coupled with a dynamic use of large mirror-polished surfaces and a plentiful supply of multi-faceted details like the hour indices, reflects everything you dont want to include in the shots. At the cost of the photographer's sanity, Grand Seiko is here to remind you their finishing is just absolutely superb. The unmatched finish is achieved through the Zaratsu polishing that requires an extreme level of craftsmanship. Using typical buffing methods to create such high-polished facets would soften up the edges of the case. The Zaratsu polishing technique can finish the facets without affecting the edges, and that is a must-have for the Grammar of Design, which is, at this point, synonymous with crisp edges and sharp sculpted styling. The 40mm diameter case with 14mm height provides a worthy canvas to showcase the unique shape and finishing of the watch. The numbers may suggest it's a large piece, but the watch doesn't feel overwhelming thanks the High-Intensity Titanium case material, maintaining a calm and subtle presence on the wrist. I would have preferred the use of Brilliant Hard Titanium, which has a nearly identical tone to stainless steel, but you'll be very happy with this material if you liked the feel of the Snowflake case. Although Grand Seiko has introduced the Series 9 design in the recent years, I'm glad they are still coming out with new models that hearken back to the iconic 44GS design language. The Japanese manufacturer is calling this watch the first model for the 44GS 55th anniversary, and that should mean we'll be seeing more releases for the occasion in 2022. Will they do a reissue? Will they come out with more variations? I can't wait to find out. The Basics Brand: Grand SeikoModel: Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 GMT 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited EditionReference Number: SBG255Diameter: 40mmThickness: 14mmCase Material: High-Intensity TitaniumDial Color: WhiteIndexes: AppliedLume: Yes, LumiBrite on hour, minute, GMT hands, and hour markersWater Resistance: 10 barStrap/Bracelet: High-Intensity Titanium bracelet The Movement Caliber: 9S86Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, dateDiameter: 28.4mmThickness: 6.6mmPower Reserve: Approximately 55 hoursWinding: Automatic (capable of hand-winding)Frequency: 36,000 vphJewels: 37Additional Details: Accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day (unworn) Pricing & Availability Price: $8,500Availability: NowLimited Edition: Yes, 1,200 piecesFor more, visit Grand Seiko. Shop this story As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of Grand Seiko. To view our selection, visit the Shop. This article was originally published by HODINKEE Japan and has been edited for publication. Photos by Masaharu Wada.Translation by Suguru Nishioka