Grand Seiko SBGH311 and SBGR325 Introduction Review

January 12, 2023

It's 2023, and Grand Seiko is at it again with another pair of nature-inspired limited edition watches. This time around, it's the anniversary of the original Caliber 9S, which debuted in 1998. Back then, it helped mark the beginning of a new era of Grand Seiko as a brand focused on accurate mechanical watchmaking. Today, Grand Seiko's announced a pair of releases that use the same case design as those original 9S watches: the SBGH311 and SBGR325. Both feature a 37mm stainless case that's 13.3mm thick. The SBGH uses Grand Seiko's Caliber 9S85 Hi-Beat, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, while the SBGR325 uses the Caliber 9S65. In typical Grand Seiko fashion, each reference features a beautiful dial and each is limited to 1,200 pieces.? When normal folks seek nature, they head to a park. Watch enthusiasts head to Grand Seiko, and it doesn't disappoint with this new Caliber 9S 25th-anniversary pair. The brand says that both dials are inspired by the sky over Mount Iwate. SBGH311 has a silver dial with texture and color meant to evoke the sea of clouds that cover Mt. Iwate, which is close to where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are manufactured. Meanwhile, SBGR325 features a light blue dial with a sunray finish inspired by the clear sky as seen from the top of Mt. Iwate, a treat for those of us for whom just thinking about getting to the top of any mountain sounds exhausting. What We Think We'd stop covering all these Grand Seiko releases if they all weren't so damn good-looking. Look past the head-in-the-clouds natural inspiration and the fact that this is yet another anniversary celebration, and the new SBGH311 and SBGR325 look like a pair of watches that show Grand Seiko at its best. That is, interesting dials, accurate movements, and now (in a throwback to the original 9S), a svelte 37mm case.? While the silver SBGH311 looks more interesting and shows off Grand Seiko's trademark ability to render subtle textures in its dials, it'll also cost you: it's priced at $6,600, while the simpler sunray finish of the SBGR325 has an MSRP of $5,500 (thanks to the use of the 9S65).?As far as automatic-winding Grand Seiko models go, both are on the more affordable end. Other than a rotor that's been chemically treated to create a blue oxide layer (pale blue on the SBGH311; dark blue on the SBGR325) the movements inside are the standard 9S85 and 9S65, respectively. Taking a stroll down memory lane of Grand Seiko's releases past, it occurred to me how on-the-nose many of Grand Seiko's recent releases have been, winning over enthusiasts and customers. A personal favorite of mine was last year's SBGW289 44GS anniversary edition with a soft pink dial, but all of the 44GS releases last year, with their 36.5mm case and faithful execution of the historic 44GS case, were winners (especially when they're not limited!). ?Late last year, the new "Omiwatari" was another fan-favorite, bringing the brand's well-known snowy motif to a smaller case size. Maybe you didn't like that pink SBGW289 as much as I did, but that's kind of the point. Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. But, unlike some other brands, it seems intent on finding a dial and case combination that, eventually, might make every enthusiast happy. And while we like to complain about limited editions (fair enough), I don't think the criticism lands as well for this particular release, because (1) 1,200 isn't that limited, as far as such things go, and (2) if you can't get this one, another one is never far away. The Basics Brand: Grand SeikoModel: Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited EditionsReference Number: SBGH311 and SBGR325Diameter: 37mmThickness: 13.3mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: silver (SBGH311) and blue (SBGR325)Water Resistance: 100 metersStrap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet, three-fold clasp with push-button release The caseback of the SBGH311, featuring the Caliber 9S85 The Movement Caliber: Grand Seiko Caliber 9S85 (SBGH311) | Caliber 9S65 (SBGR325)Functions: DateDiameter: 28mm Power Reserve: 55 hours (9S85) | 72 hours (9S65)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (9S85) | 28,800 vph (9S65) Jewels: 37 | 35Accuracy: +8 to -1 seconds per day | +10 to -1 seconds per day (normal usage accuracy) Pricing & Availability Price: SBGH311: $6,600 | SBGR325: $5,300Limited Edition: Yes, 1,200 eachAvailability: The SBGH311 will initially be exclusive to?the Grand?Seiko?Boutique Online in January 2023 and then available at?Grand?Seiko?Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in February 2023. The SBGR325 will be available at?Grand?Seiko?Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in April 2023. Shop this story The Hodinkee Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Grand Seiko watches; explore our collection?here.