Introducing: The H. Moser Swiss Icons Watch
January 10, 2018
The Moser Swiss Icons watch is the latest in a series of watches from H. Moser, which is intended to be as much a provocation as anything else. The subjects of the provocation are, in this case, not the Apple Watch (a past target) but rather Swiss watch brands. The Swiss Icons watch appears to be intended as a parody of incrementalism of much Swiss watch design overall. A unique piece, the Swiss Icons watch has the bezel of a GMT Master II shoehorned into a Royal Oak shape, a dial that's a mashup of Panerai and Patek (the Nautilus) a Hublot case, a Panerai-esque crown guard, and a tourbillon under a Girard-Perregaux type golden bridge. Why This Watch Matters The Swiss Icons watch is a clear indication that Moser intends to continue its strategy of being something of an industry enfant terrible. Of course, the company continues to make its own range of high-end timepieces, but the Swiss Icons watch, along with the Swiss Alp Watch, are very broad and direct swipes at clearly recognizable targets. However, the Swiss Icons watch does also include some key Moser elements, including a double hairspring and "Funky Blue" dial. ? Initial Thoughts I'm of two very different minds about this sort of thing. On the one hand, it is certainly true that the industry is ripe for parody on a lot of levels. On the other, I wonder about the long term effect of such a strategy. It takes a certain determination to run the risk of insulting six fellow Swiss watch brands at once, but at a certain point, I wonder if ensuring the biggest buzz about your watches, is going to be about what's basically a satire, might not be a distraction from the other values that will make or break the brand's prospects over the longer term. That's an unknown and clearly Moser feels it's worth the risk; only time will tell if it's going to pay off in terms of crossover attention to Moser's other watches. This is clearly going to be, by design, a love-it-or-hate-it watch but if you're a hater, hey, at least this one doesn't have a case made of cheese. Moser CEO Edouard Meylan says, in a statement accompanying the release, that "Many brands, even historical ones, create and produce nothing but substitute substance with artificial hype to stay relevant. Reinforcing their efforts with prestigious events and paying ambassadors who have no links to watchmaking; these tactics are just artifice that serve as smoke and mirrors. It's all about who has the longest history, the most famous celebrity ambassador, or influencer with the most followers. Their efforts are in vain, the essential lies elsewhere: with the product." The watch will be auctioned after the 2018 SIHH, and proceeds will be donated to the Fondation pour la Culture Horlogre Suisse, to "support apprenticeships in the watchmaking professions and to safeguard expertise in the related watchmaking arts and crafts." The Basics Brand: H. Moser & CieModel: Swiss Icons WatchReference Number: 3804-1200Diameter: 43mmThickness: 12.6mmCase Material: SteelDial Color: Funky Blue, two layers with cut-out numeralsLume: Super-LumiNovaStrap/Bracelet: Steel The Movement Caliber: HMC 804, in-houseFunctions: Hours, minutesDiameter: 32mm / 14 1/4 lignesThickness: 5.5mmPower Reserve: Three daysWinding: Automatic, bi-directional; 18k red gold oscillating weightFrequency: 21,600 vphAdditional Details: Modular one-minute flying tourbillon Pricing & Availability Limited Edition: Unique piecePricing: To be auctioned after the SIHHFor more click here.