John Mayer On Watches: My Thoughts On The Bell & Ross BR126 Chronograph, By John Mayer

December 20, 2013

This past November I had the rare opportunity to sit on the jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve. For one day, myself and 22 other far-more-qualified watch lovers closely examined 71 watches in 14 categories, spanning the entire world of watchmaking from the $3,100 non-complication Tudor Black Bay to a womans tourbillion made by Bovet that retails for over $200,000. Of all the watches that I saw, one that really stood out to me was the Bell & Ross BR126 Sport Heritage Chronograph. An entry in the Sport Watch category, The Sport Heritage Chronograph didnt take home an award at the ceremony, but it left a lasting impression on me for holding its own against all the other watches in the running. A Closer Look At The Bell & Ross BR 126 Sport Heritage Chronograph Heres one thing Ive learned in my years as both an artist and a watch collector: great design costs the same to produce as bad design. It just takes some heart and soul to make it truly mean something. Better materials cost more, sure, but a pad printer will lay whatever style letter on a dial you tell it to. When an inexpensive (though dependable) Swiss ETA movement is involved, as is the case with the BR126, most watch companies start from a point of resignation and don't even attempt to do something truly rewarding. Bell & Ross looked past the price point on the Sport Heritage and really broke the good design barrier on watches at this level.? Weve seen brands like Omega and Panerai experiment with an artificial patina effect, but the BR126 nails the "aged luminous" look on its hour markers and hands. If youve ever spent time staring at a vintage Sea-Dweller or Submariner, youll appreciate how convincing this looks. And in addition to adding some historical realism, it also sets the tone for the rest of the watch in terms of its color palate: subdued, classic, and cool. BR 126 Vintage Style Dial Printing The BR126s dial color-way borrows most heavily from the Rolex black/custard/red combination from the red Submariner 1680. No, it wont win any awards for innovation outright, but then again, taking the best features of designs from the past and assembling them in near-perfect harmony isnt something you see every day. I especially love the domed crystal, which adds to the vintage look by slightly distorting the edges of the minute track from different angles. The muted dial features the contrasting red 100 M depth rating print, which some purists may find more blasphemous than harmonious, since the watch is a pilots watch in all other respects. Multi-Color Dial Printing, Red Whats interesting about a watch with a date feature is that the dial can be cut to reveal the day of the month anywhere around the number wheel. Here the date aperture is placed between the 4 and 5 oclock hour markers, the only element of the design that isnt a historical throwback but a rather a nod to the other chronographs in the Bell & Ross line. BR 126 Wears Great On The Wrist The bezel is extremely classic looking, and also very clever. Borrowing the ultra-simple minute numbers and hashes from old dive watches of the 50s and 60s, youd believe you were looking at an old plastic bezel insert that was kept in pristine condition; after all, every bezel with this type face and layout was made from some sort of epoxy or celluloid. Not this watch. Just really thoughtful design on a simple, flat metal ring.? ETA Movement With Bell & Ross Rotor The chronograph buttons are very simple "pump" style pushers, which are small and unobtrusive. This is another one of the design elements that gives the watch a very vintage look, and borrows heavily from the early Valjoux 72 movements as seen on early Rolex Daytonas. It also helps to further blur the lines between a pilots and a divers watch.? Case Finishing, Pump Pushers, and Signed Crown The only dead giveaway on the low price point is the finish of the case. That smooth, slightly over-polished look on the sides and lugs that says "If you want more, pay more," is in full effect here. But thankfully those surfaces arent really that visible when looking at the watch on the wrist. The success of this watch's design lies in the relationship between the dial, bezel, and pushers. This is one watch that could benefit greatly from a strap change, though the supplied patterned black rubber strap is a pretty effective way to keep costs down without looking like other watches in the low four figures. Ill be seeing what happens to the look of this watch when it gets a NATO style strap run through its spring bars. In fact, the BR126 is just one military green canvas strap away from giving the IWC Pilots Watch Top Gun Miramar a run for its money. A Closer Look On The Wrist Bell & Ross has continued to show off all the right moves as a cool, innovative company with a really strong identity. There are some things more powerful than any one advertising campaign, and thats the rare combination of high quality and patience. It was only a matter of time before they made a watch that would appeal to me as much as this one does. That may not win you a Grand Prix award, but it does win a place on my wrist, and for the price, maybe on yours too.?The Bell & Ross BR126 Sport Heritage Chronograph is priced at $4,500 and you can find all the details here. Shop this story Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned Bell & Ross models.