In-Depth: Introducing Lux And Lambda (Details & Pricing)

October 25, 2013

The Nomos Lux and Lambda One thing I have always loved about Nomos watches is their honest lack of pretense. The pure design of the initial four models, which remain unaltered and available to this day, set a strong precedent. I might even go so far as to say there is probably no other brand that can boast four entirely unchanged models that have remained active in the collection for 22 years. That said, the Nomos decision-makers have introduced few radically new products over the years. But what we have today is still a little shocking: entirely new Nomos models rendered in white and rose gold. Classic Nomos Models The first element of these two new Nomos watches, Lux and Lambda, is the audacity of design compared to what weve seen over the past two decades. Nomos has always specialized in offering an incredible price-performance ratio with watches in stainless steel cases. The original four models C Tangente, Tetra, Orion, Ludwig C were designed after original Bauhaus-style models from the 1920s, freshened and modified by Dsseldorf-based graphic artist Suzy Gnther. Gnther remained true to Nomos for more than a decade, taking charge of all the burgeoning brands visual needs (not just watch design) until personal reasons caused her to leave.? Following Gnthers departure, prominent Monchengladbach-based artist Klaus Schmitt took over visual projects (of which there were many), though he did not really add or change anything regarding the watches appearances, with the prominent exception of adding color to models such as the ladies Tetra, the Wempe 100, and other special editions. New looks eventually arrived, mainly in the form of added models such as the Zrich and the world time/GMT watches C but enormous departures these were not. There were few new elements, most notably the Zrich case. This was Hannes Wettsteins last design project. A prominent Swiss industrial designer perhaps most well-known to that point in the watch world for his work with Ventura, Wettstein unfortunately passed away in 2008, but not before Simon Husslein (responsible for the Lux and Lambda models new cases) and Berlin professor of design Axel Kufus (who designed these new dials) arrived on the scene. Another Pair Of Lux And Lambda The looks of the new Lux and Lambda models are new for Nomos, but they still feel right in the context of what the brand has been doing for the last twenty-two years. They are an evolution and not a departure. While this was the kind of risk that founder and CEO Roland Schwertner typically dislikes taking, it is important and ultimately, in our opinion, successful.While the appearances of these two models are the first thing to strike the eye, the movements are equally (if not more) enticing for a connoisseur of mechanical watches. Like these newdials and cases, the movements also need a little historical explanation. WempeChronometerwerke Tourbillon In 2004 Schwertner was collaborating heavily with Hellmut Wempe, the third-generation owner of the Wempe chain, who was doing great business in Germany with Nomos watches as the entry-level products in his 25 stores. To kick off Wempes own timepiece label and celebrate a number of Wempe-related activities such as inaugurating the Glashtte observatory as a production workshop and chronometer-testing facility (the only one presently in Germany), the two cooked up a Nomos-designed and manufactured luxury watch, the Chronometerwerke. The 25-piece limited edition tourbillon was designed by Nomos Thierry Albert (then head watchmaker at Nomos) and lovingly handmade by Albert and Daniel Malchert. A limited edition, tonneau-shaped, hand-wound model with a similar look (but without tourbillon) was also launched at the same time.? The Lux's DUW 2002 Movement Naturally, after this was accomplished, thoughts turned to making a similar piece for Nomos own collection, but this was kept on the back burner for close to a decade. Today, it has arrived. The Lux and Lambda movements are close relatives of the Wempe movements of 2004, grand examples of the type of high-level watchmaking Nomos is capable of and would now like the world to know about. Head watchmaker Mirko Heyne (responsible for Nomoss automatic and world time movements) has marvelously utilized a (more than) three-quarter plate, typical finishing patterns and decoration of Glashtte, and the hand-engraved balance cock. Instead of engraving the balance cock with a floral pattern as many brands do, if you look closely, you will see that Nomos hand-engraved pattern plays with the words Mit Liebe in Glashtte gefertigt (made with love in Glashtte), a very Nomos detail. DUW 2001 Movement In The Lambda Today, all Nomos calibers C which have been named for the Greek alphabet since the introduction the automatic movement C are the brands own. And with the introduction of the Lux and Lambda models, the caliber names change again to underscore Nomoss manufacturing capabilities: the round Lambda model is powered by Caliber DUW 1001, while the tonneau-shaped Lux boasts Caliber DUW 2002. DUW stands for Deutsche Uhrenwerke and plays on Glashttes powerful past in terms of movement capabilities.? The Two Nomos Lux Models Lets take a closer look at these two new models. The Lux is a simple time-only watch that utilizes the new-to-Nomos tonneau case shape. The case is rendered in white gold with wire lugs and you have a choice of either an all silvery white dial or a dial with silvery white registers and a light blue ground. The dimensions are 40.5mm by 36mm by 8.95mm thick, and a massive sapphire caseback shows off the manually-wound DUW 2002 movement, with 84 hour power reserve. The Pair Of Lambda Watches The Lambda retains a round shape familiar to Nomos lovers, but the case is a new shape and comes in at a larger than usual 42mm in both white and rose gold. Its still thin at 8.9mm thick, and the dial space is dominated by a massive power reserve indicator at 12 oclock, counting from 84 hours to 0 hours. The movement is manually wound too, so youll actually get to see this power reserve hand move over the course of a few days. Its a cool execution that feels very much within the Nomos aesthetic.?Nomos has never gone down the same paths as others, and that is part of the attraction and charm of this brand. With the Lux and Lambda models, each of which is limited to just 100 pieces retailing between $17,800 (for the Lambda in rose gold) and $20,500 (for the Lux in white gold), it enters the world of contemporary fine watchmaking. But make no mistake, the stainless steel models that connoisseurs have come to know, love, and afford are destined to remain Nomoss core business.?Enjoy the full gallery below and visit Nomos online for more.