Introducing: The Nomos True Blue Zurich Weltzeit, A Favorite Receives A New Dial, And In-House Escapement

September 07, 2014

You would be hard-pressed to find a more somber blue on the color palette, but thats just how we like our Bauhaus C subdued and straightforward. The new True Blue Zurich Weltzeit is NOMOS chic take on its exquisite GMT that made headlines a few years back (check out this old-skool Week on the Wrist) and a recent appearance at HODINKEES event to welcome NOMOS to the States earlier this summer. Lets dive right in.Its unlikely for a HODINKEE reader to be unfamiliar with NOMOS, but just in case you havent had the privilege of being introduced to the younger German C heres a quick preface. NOMOS Glashtte was born in '91 in the little town of Glashtte, Germany. If that name sounds familiar, that's because its also the birthplace of A. Lange & Sohne, the house that pioneered the three-quarter plate. Nivarox was patented here, and clearly, pedigree is contagious in this environment. The Zurich Weltzeit is NOMOS take on the GMT. The case of the True Blue is polished stainless steel, tripartite, with straight lugs. It measures in at 10.85 mm thick and 39.9 mm wide, not 39.8 mm and definitely not 40.0 mm C welcome to Germany. The updated dial is the star here. Its still galvanized, with rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and a serious blue hue aimed at cross-referencing a variety of venues and wardrobes. The white-on-blue printing appears to still be flawless and legible. The home-time wheel at the 3 oclock position is now labeled with a minimalist red silhouette of a house. In an age of apps and webicons, this fits in nicely with NOMOS do-less attitude, even though the Weltzeit is a do-more watch.This brings us to a quick recap of the mechanics. The sunken disc wields 24 cities/time zones. The hour and minute hands display the time at whatever city aligns with the 12 oclock position. To shuffle through time zones, one simple uses the pusher at 2 oclock to rotate the disc (the hour and minute hands jump accordingly). The 3 oclock sub dial labeled with the red house is your home time. Be sure to check out HODINKEEs a-week-on-the-wrist of the original Zurich Weltzeit for a more in-depth analysis.NOMOS manufactures its movements in-house. In fact, the movements bear the Glashtte seal, which certifies that at least 50% of the movements value is created in Glashutte (in reality NOMOS does about 95%). The Weltzeits True Blue upgrade is no exception. It doesnt stop at a handsome blue dial. Flip over True Blue and youll find the Caliber (Xi). While the front of the watch may now be biz-casual, the rhodium-plated movement still exudes a bespoke feel. Those arent Geneva stripes, it's Glashtte ribbing. Bright blue screws are always heated, never chemical. Theres noticeable decouverture on the jewel holes. The perlage is in black gold. The ratchet and duplex wheels have a volute sunburst finish. But wait, did we say Caliber (Xi)? We meant caliber DUW 5201 C the Xis replacement that utilizes the new NOMOS Swing System that we covered earlier this year. Thats right, NOMOS now builds escapements completely in-house and we cant help but wonder if that takes its 95% Glashtte Seal approval to 100%.The Zurich Weltzeit was a big hit with those who frequent the airport and the True Blue is a colorful breath of fresh air to the original C especially when all youve breathed for days on end is recycled air.The True Blue Zurich Weltzeit will be released by NOMOS in October of this year. We would expect pricing to be at around the price of the original C $6,100. More here.