Magazine Feature: Our 10 Favorite Seikos Of All Time

June 11, 2021

No collection is complete without a Seiko. Some collections arent complete without 10. So which ones are the best of the best? For the new issue of HODINKEE magazine, we argued among ourselves and, after only a few hurt feelings, agreed on these. 10. The 6159-7000 The 6159s brutish aesthetic derives from its monocoque case, which is milled from a single block of steel. This allows the movement to be loaded in from the front, eliminating the need for a caseback and therefore blocking one point of potential fluid (helium and water) ingress. The innovation helped the watch achieve 300 meters of water resistance in 1968 and prompted the Swiss brands to follow suit soon after Seiko debuted it, and yet its still not even the watchs most fascinating technical element. Seiko also borrowed a hi-beat movement from Grand Seiko in the form of the caliber 6159A, which ticks along at 36,000 beats per hour. In 1968, the 6159- 7000 represented the absolute pinnacle of dive-watch engineering. All these years later, its gone from cutting edge to classic. Cole Pennington 9. The Panda Like Takumi Fujiwaras Panda-themed Toyota AE86 in the manga series Initial D, the Seiko Panda puts utilitarian Japanese design on full blast. The registers are arranged vertically. The minute register serves as a 30-minute and 60-minute counter; the numerals are double-printed on the register. Other than the totalizers, the dial is devoid of any numerals; only applied stick markers. Its black and white: This design leads the pack of 70s Seiko chronographs. C.P. 8. The 5 SNK Has there ever been a more compelling affordable mechanical watch than the Seiko 5 SNK? Its got rugged good looks; a solid automatic movement; and outrageous bang for the buck. Its easy to love and easy to wear. Its even easy to find. Just open the Amazon app on your phone, type in Seiko 5 SNK, and pick a dial and strap color that turn you on. Jon Bues 7. The Grandfather Tuna 6159-7010 Since Seiko often just assigns model numbers to its watches, fans love to nickname their favorite pieces. No nickname is more apt than Tuna or Tuna Can for Seikos series of professional dive watches, which are equipped with a circular shroud irresistibly reminiscent of a can of water-packed StarKist. The original, produced in 1975, has been dubbed the Grandfather Tuna and was the first in a line of watches that Seiko continues to produce to this day. The 6159-7010, water-resistant to 600 meters, was the source of more than 20 distinct patents. And it was not only the first Tuna, but also the first watch ever to have a case made of titanium. Jack Forster 6. The Orange Monster The original Orange Monsters unconventional design, with massive lume plots on a sunny dial and oversize scallops in a meaty bezel, quickly earned it a spot among the pantheon of Seiko greats. Not everyone loved it at first. Detractors cited the half-shrouded bezel and stubby lugs as off-putting, while fans (like me) adored the fact that it looked unlike any diver before it. One final quirk: The 7S26 movement inside isnt hand-winding, so to get it running you have to sort of swirl the watch around like a snifter. Cool ritual. Cool watch. C.P. 5. The Turtle SRP777/6309 This timepiece, launched in 1976 as the 6309-704X, captured several Seiko dive-watch signatures. Note the wide 45mm cushion case. The day/date display. The broad elapsed-time bezel, screw-down crown at four, and black dial with large luminous plots, and a matching super-legible handset. All told, its a handsome, functional, and hard-wearing creation that speaks to the power of intentional design. In 2016, Seiko announced a modern iteration with the SRP777. Capturing the same vibe, and spawning myriad iterations, this Prospex SRP diver was quickly nicknamed Turtle and it represents one of the absolute best values in dive watches. James Stacey 4. The 62MAS/ SPB143 Pulling loose but truly functional inspiration from Seikos original dive watch, 1965s 62MAS, the SPB143 (and its many siblings) offer everything you could want from a modern dive watch, in a vintage-inspired skin-diver package. Launched in 2020, the SPB143 at right has 200 meters of water resistance, a steel rotating bezel, a no-nonsense case with drilled lugs, and enough lume to light up a bedroom (or a night dive). Introduced into Seikos mid-tier Prospex line, the SPB143 is 40.5mm of steel and enthusiast credibility that represents an ideal synthesis of Seikos much-loved accessibility and tool-watch design. J.S. 3. The Pogue 6139 The Pogue holds a prime spot in the rich and niche history of Seiko. Released in 1969 around the same time that the Zenith El Primero debuted as the first automatic chronograph, the 6139 Pogue was Seikos foray into the same category. Its tonneau-form case and bright yellow dial made the watch a showstopper. And then there was the whole watch-in-space thing, as documented by Cole elsewhere in this issue. So weve got bright colors, a quirky case shape, and some cool history. No wonder its so essential. Cara Barrett 2. The Willard 6105 This classic 1970s diver is a 44mm slab of metal that can take a beating above or below water. Its technically known as the 6105, but colloquially called the Captain Willard for its appearance on Martin Sheens character in Apocalypse Now. Movie references aside, the 6105 has a rich military history as a popular choice for U.S. servicemen during the Vietnam War. Its seen some stuff. The truth is, this is the dive watch upon which all future Seikos would be basedC from its asymmetrical case all the way down to its four oclock crown. They dont make em like this anymore. Oh wait, yes they do. Danny Milton 1. The SKX007 The SKX007 is neither a rare watch nor an unusual one, but its the most successful dive watch Seiko has ever producedCand if ubiquity, durability, and reliability are any measure, its also one of the most successful dive watches of all time. The SKX007 was the first mechanical watch for many enthusiasts and put the joy of mechanical watchmaking on thousands and thousands of wrists. Its distinctive case, four oclock crown, and overall design connected it to a lineage of Seiko dive watches going all the way back to the 1960s. Though its now out of production, its a permanent member of the Watch Hall of FameCa watch that for a couple of hundred dollars, made you feel like a million bucks. J.F.All photos, Tiffany Wade. Shop TalkThis article can be found in HODINKEE Magazine, Vol. 8 which is now available in the H Shop. The HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Retailer of Seiko.