Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater In Sandblasted Rose Gold

January 14, 2020

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was first launched in 2016 and at the time, it was the world's thinnest repeater in production, both in terms of the case and the movement. The titanium case was a mere 6.85mm thick and the movement, caliber BVL362, only 3.12mm thick. The watch was unusual in other respects as well, as time-only minute repeaters are typically expressions of classical watchmaking not only in their mechanics (the repeater is the pinnacle of complexity of the traditional high complications and to this day has successfully resisted being industrialized) but in their designs as well. Traditional round cases, simple dials, and dial furniture whose language was codified a century or more ago, are the general rule.? Bulgari made a significant break with this tradition with the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. The design is a post-modernist exercise in geometric formalism, with a highly complex architecture that reflects Bulgari's Italian design heritage and the materials were resolutely non-traditional as well. The 2016 launch model was cased in titanium, which was followed in 2018 by an extremely (even more) exotic model, in carbon, with which we spent A Week On The Wrist.? As you can see the post-modernist case design has hitherto been paired with equally contemporary materials C this however, is the first time that Bulgari has used a traditional precious metal for this particular timepiece. The use of rose gold, it might be thought, would necessitate a noticeably thicker case but this has not proven to be so; the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, in rose gold, is just 6.90mm thick C only five hundredths of a millimeter thicker than the titanium and carbon fiber versions. Initial Thoughts This is an interesting move from Bulgari and has a few implications for the watch that might not be at first glance apparent. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater has always presented an intriguing contrast between the contemporary case and materials, and the extremely refined and extremely traditional movement. The combination has proven both very appealing to some collectors, and very challenging to others but has also been at the heart of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater conceptually.? Rose gold, on the other hand, is as traditional a material for a repeater as you can get. Historically rose gold repeater cases were generally thought the best for the complication, producing (when the gold was worked correctly by someone properly trained in making repeater cases) a uniquely warm, yet clear and resonant tone, difficult if not impossible to achieve with other materials (Platinum, for instance, due to its internal crystal structure and density, tends to produce a quieter watch with a less complex tone structure, although there can be exceptions to this general rule).? A fine high polish to the rose gold case of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater would have been the traditional way to go but it would also have been visually inharmonious with both the design, and with the rest of the collection and so Bulgari has opted for a semi-matte, sandblasted case finish. This is an interesting decision as the treatment of the metal mutes the gold a bit, and prevents it from overwhelming the clarity of the lines of the case, but still preserves some of the glow of rose gold. This would be a most interesting watch to hear in action, as well. The case of a repeater is an important, and often decisive, factor in the perceived quality of the sound, and I'd love to hear how the rose gold version of this watch sounds, next to the titanium and carbon fiber versions. We'll try and make it happen in 2020. The Basics Brand: BulgariModel: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater In Sandblasted Rose GoldReference Number: 103279Diameter: 40mmThickness: 6.90mmCase Material: rose goldDial Color: rose goldIndexes: cut outs for improved sound transmissionLume: surely you jestWater Resistance: 30mStrap/Bracelet: brown matte alligator with 18k rose gold ardillon buckle BVLGARI ultra-thin minute repeater caliber BVL 362. The Movement Caliber: Bulgari caliber BVL 362Functions: time, minute repeaterDiameter: 28.50mmThickness: 3.12mmPower Reserve: 42 hoursWinding: hand-woundFrequency: 21,600 vphAdditional Details: traditional haute horlogerie movement finish; flanks and angles polished, black polished steel cap to the escape wheel upper jewel, flat balance spring with traditional Genevan-style outer stud; centrifugal-type silent regulator. Pricing & Availability Price: $170,000Availability: not yet announcedLimited Edition:?no; however, expect very limited productionVisit Bulgari online at Bulgari.com.