Review Of The Cartier Tortue and Monopusher Chronograph 2024

April 10, 2024

This year's addition to the Cartier Priv collection is one of the house's oldest shapes, the Tortue. But unlike most years, this time around, we've also got a complication: a monopusher chronograph that calls back to the Tortue chronos from the 1920s, as well as the 1998 CPCP edition with ties to some serious indie watchmakers. The 2024 Tortue collection is completed with a trio of time-only models, one that's diamond set. All are limited: the diamond-free chronographs and two-handers are all limited to 200 numbered pieces in each metal, platinum or yellow gold. The diamond-set platinum model is limited to 50 pieces. Cartier introduced the Tortue in 1912, making it older than pretty much every Cartier shape except the Santos-Dumont (1904). Tortue is French for "turtle," but the combination of curved and straight lines make for a shape that's more elegant than most leatherbacks I've met.?The return of the Tortue monopusher (monopoussoir, in French) chronograph is the biggest news, so let's start there. The platinum or yellow gold case measures 43.7mm x 34.8mm and 10.2mm thick. It's about the same size as the CPCP Monopusher, but the movement inside is completely different. A sapphire caseback reveals Cartier's manufacture caliber 1928MC, a new movement that's a column wheel chronograph with C?tes de Genve decoration on the bridges. It beats at 4 Hz and has a 44-hour power reserve.? Both the gold and platinum have a silver opaline dial, but the platinum version has applied, rhodium-plated Roman numerals, while the gold version has printed black numerals. Blued, Breguet-style hands complete the look. The monopusher chronograph is limited to 200 numbered pieces in each metal. The hours-and-minutes Tortue uses the same design cues as the chronograph, but in a slightly smaller case that measures 42.4mm x 32.9mm and 7.2mm thick. Inside is Cartier's caliber 430 MC, essentially a re-branded Piaget 430P that beats at 3 Hz with a relatively low 38-hour power reserve. Like the chronograph, the time-only Tortues are available in platinum and yellow gold, limited to 200 pieces each. In addition, Cartier threw in a platinum version that's set with 54 brilliant-cut diamonds, and there'll only be 50 of those.?Scroll to the end for pricing on each of the five models, which will be available this fall.? What We Think I'll just say up front that the Tortue is one of my favorite shapes from Cartier. The way the case curves to meet those straight lugs captures so much of what I love about Cartier C?romantic but rigid, Art Deco but also totally modern. (Yes, I have a '70s Tortue.)And it's not just the shape. The Tortue pre-dates the Tank, so it's got the heritage, too. It even has a modern pedigree, since in 1998 Cartier chose the Tortue as the home for its monopusher chronograph caliber developed in conjunction with THA bauche, the join-venture of legendary watchmakers Vianney Halter, Danis Flageolet (De Bethune), and F.P. Journe.? Now, Cartier's brought all that history back by bringing the Tortue to the Cartier Priv collection. I'm excited to get hands-on with these, especially the monopusher: Cartier hasn't told us much about the movement, but says it's a new column-wheel chronograph that measures just 4.3mm thick and touts its various finishing techniques, including C?tes de Genve, bevelling, and so on. More to come! The Basics ChronographBrand: CartierModel: TortueReference Number: WHTTO0008 (platinum) WHTO0007 (yellow gold)Diameter: 43.7mm x 34.8mmThickness: 10.2mm (sapphire caseback)Case Material: Platinum or yellow goldDial Color: Silvered opalineWater Resistance: NoStrap/Bracelet: Alligator strap, platinum or gold buckle The Movement Caliber: Manufacture caliber 1928 MCFunctions: ChronographThickness: 4.3mmPower Reserve: 44 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 28,800 beats per hourChronometer Certified: NoAdditional Details: Column wheel chronograph; C?tes de Genve? The Basics Time onlyBrand: CartierModel: TortueReference Number: WGTO008, WGTO006 (platinum and yellow gold time only); WJTO0010 (diamond-set platinum)Diameter: 41.4mm x 32.9mmThickness: 7.2mmCase Material: Platinum or yellow goldDial Color: Silvered opalineWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Alligator strap, platinum or gold buckle? The Movement Caliber: Cartier caliber 430 MC (Piaget 430P)Functions: ChronographThickness: 4.3mmPower Reserve: 38 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 21,600 beats per hourChronometer Certified: No Pricing & Availability Availability: September 2024 (time only); October 2024 (chronograph)Limited Edition: Yes, 200 numbered pieces of each metal for the time only and chronograph; platinum, diamond-set is limited to 50 piecesPrice:? Platinum monopusher: 53,000 Yellow gold monopusher: 46,000 Platinum time only: 31,100 Yellow gold time only: 27,900 Diamond-set platinum: 53,100For more, visit Cartier Watches.