Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph, Now With In-House Caliber 69355

January 31, 2020

The IWC Portuguiser chronograph is one of the best loved, and least changed, designs in IWC's portfolio. Originally produced in the 1990s, the Portugieser chronographs have generally relied on supplied calibers which were retuned by IWC C first Valjoux movements, and more recently Sellita calibers. In-house chronograph calibers have been used before in Portugieser chronographs, but these have used 89000 series chronograph movements, which came in slightly larger cases, and which had the distinctive hour and minute totalizers characteristic of that family of chronographs, located at 12:00. IWC has just announced that the original classic design will now use the 69000 series of chronograph movements, and these will come in at a lower price than the 89000-series equipped Portugieser chronographs. The watches, which are available now, have a retail price of $7,950 and will be available in 2 colorways in 18k 5N red gold, with silver or black dials, and stainless steel, with silver, blue, or black dials (the silver dial models come with either gold or blue hands and hour markers).? Initial Thoughts The introduction of the caliber 69355 to the classic Portugieser lineup feels like pretty good news to me C the outsourced movement never particularly bothered me in the original, but at the same time, the DNA of IWC is I think more that of a manufacture than an tablisseur (a company that cases outsourced movements) so it's great to see an in-house movement being deployed in this design C this is actually the first time a 69000-series movement has ever been used in this case, with the notable exception of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition 150 Years, which was released in 2018. I've always had a soft spot for the classic Portugieser chronograph C in its original form it's always felt to me like one of those moments when a design really gets it right and there is nothing to add or take away which could improve on matters. One of the common complaints, by the way, about watches with a number six which is cut off by the small seconds subdial is that this is some breed of lazy decision making; the fact is that it is a feature of literally millions of wrist and pocket watches and can be found on everything from mid-19th century American pocket watches, to a Dufour simplicity. The new movement means that there is now a less expensive Portugieser chronograph with an in-house movement C the in-house caliber 89361 Portugieser chronographs currently list for $12,100 in steel, versus $7950 for the new models with caliber 69355. The Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714, with the outsourced movement, has been a source of unalloyed horological pleasure for many years (it was one of the first watches I ever wrote about for HODINKEE, when I joined the company in 2015) ?and with the added charm of an in-house movement, the new ref. 3716 looks to be a source of pleasure for many years to come. The Basics Brand: IWCModel: Portugieser Chronograph Reference Number: IW3716Diameter: 41.00mmThickness: 13.00mmCase Material: 18k 5N red gold or stainless steelDial Color: in steel, silver, black or blue; in gold, silver or blackIndexes: steel models, w/silver dial, blue or gold hands and numerals or rhodium plated hands on the blue and black dial models. In gold, gold hands and dial markers on both black dial and silver dial models.Lume: noneWater Resistance: 3 bar/30 metersStrap/Bracelet: black, blue, or brown alligator The Movement Caliber: IWC 69355Functions: time, chronograph with seconds and minute totalizersDiameter: 30mmPower Reserve: 46 hoursWinding: manual and automaticFrequency: 28,800 vphJewels: 27Additional Details: column wheel with tilting pinion mechanism Pricing & Availability Price: $7950 in steel, $17,800 in goldAvailability: available nowLimited Edition: no, regular productionSee the entire collection at IWC.com.