Introducing: The Leica ZM 12: The Brand's Biggest (Smaller) Watch Release To Date

February 27, 2025

When I heard Leica was coming out with watches three years ago, I was skeptical. Why was the maker of one of the best cameras in the world venturing into the world of luxury horology? As someone who has pined over every Leica M6 eBay listing for nearly a decade before purchasing one a few years ago, I felt an immense kinship and association with the iconic red dot and all it embodied. Perhaps I felt over-protective of the brand. I suppose I was worried that the brand's legacy would somehow be tarnished if this new launch didn't go well. Since the launch of its first watch, the ZM 1, in early 2022, Leica has continued to expand its watch lineup, which brings us to today, as Leica is unveiling its latest releasethe ZM 12. Offered in four colorways (and two metals): Steel Blue Orange, Steel Silver Grey, Steel Olive Black, and Titanium Chocolate Black; upon seeing the collection for the first time, the first thing I noticed was the reduced case size across the board. At 39mm, it is two millimeters smaller than its predecessor, 2023's ZM 11. At the heart of the collection is the Leica Calibre LA-3002, developed in collaboration with Swiss movement specialists at Chronode SA, which delivers impressive performance metrics, including a substantial 60-hour power reserve and timekeeping accuracy rated at -4/+6 seconds per day. The watch also features a screw-down crown with quick date change and conventional time-setting modes, contributing to its 100m water resistance rating (conforming to ISO 2281 standards). The ZM 12 is 13mm thick and maintains a significant but not overly bulky presence. The collection offers cases in either 316L stainless steel or grade 5 titanium, with the titanium version being notably lighter (52g vs 66g for the steel version). The caseback features a single-domed sapphire crystal with internal laser-printed text. The dial design entices the viewer to look a bit closer. The dual-layered construction allows for a unique interplay between light and shadow, subtle nods to how cameras interact with light, as the viewers are given a slightly different vantage point depending on the viewing angle. The dial includes an inner bezel and a printed minute track for precise time reading. At the 6 o'clock position, a small seconds sub-dial adds functionality and symmetrical balance to the overall design. The watch uses Swiss Super-LumiNova for its indices and hands, allowing for accurate timekeeping when you partake in some night photography.Long-time Leica lovers will recognize the red dot fasteners on the back of the bracelet used to change the strap, as they're the same shape and style as the button used to release and swap out a lens on one of Leica's cameras. The Easy-Change System makes swapping out a bracelet as simple as it gets, albeit it must be with one of Leica's straps, as the straps are entirely proprietary. Press the red dot button to release the current strap, then slide the new strap into place, wait for the click, and voil. It's quite seamless and nicely executed. The ZM 12 collection offers a range of straps and bracelets. The orange rubber strap, with its distinctive inverted 'Clous de Paris' pattern, is a little louder than the other two, while the technical textile beige strap has reinforced perforated segments for durability. A solid black rubber option is also available for those who prefer a more understated look. All three feature an elegant 2mm taper, starting from 22mm down to 20mm at the thinnest point by the clasp.The collection also offers integrated metal bracelets in either stainless steel (with matte and polished surfaces) or titanium (with matte finishing) for a more traditional look. The bracelets can be shortened by removing up to 12 link elements, and both versions feature dual folding butterfly-style clasps. Leica ZM 12 has various options: the steel variants (Silver Grey, Olive Black, and Blue Orange) cost $6,250, and the titanium variant costs $7,000. Straps/bracelets range from $550 to $1,350. You can find more details and specs below.? What We Think I think Leica certainly faces an uphill battle as it continues its foray into the watch market. It's hard enough for many core watch brands, and let's not forget that it's very tough to be world-class at two different things, no matter how tangential watches and cameras may be. However, with the ZM 12 releases, Leica is adjusting the product line to reflect the minutiae of public taste, taking the ZM 11 and dropping the size a bit as 39mm continues to be popular. What I find most compelling about the ZM 12 is how it translates Leica's design language and engineering philosophy from cameras to watches. The same attention to detail, precision, and functionality that makes their cameras unique is evident here. The red dot fasteners are more than just brandingthey're a thoughtful connection between the two product lines. While I don't necessarily have a ZM 12 on my own wishlist yetI am rooting for Leica to find continued success in the watch vertical. For Leica enthusiasts who appreciate the brand's design sensibilities and want to have a Leica for their wrist, the ZM 12 makes a compelling case. As for the broader market, it might be a harder sell, but I think the ZM 12 is Leica's strongest offering yet. The Basics Brand: LeicaModel: ZM 12Diameter: 39 mmThickness: 13 mmCase Material: 316L stainless steel (three versions) or grade 5 titanium for a single versionDial Color: Blue Orange, Silver Grey, Olive Black, and Chocolate BlackIndexes: Super-LumiNovaLume: YesWater Resistance: 100 metersStrap/Bracelet: Bracelets in Stainless Steel and Titanium - Straps in Orange Rubber "Clous De Paris," Textile Strap Beige, and Black Rubber The Movement Caliber: Calibre LA-3002Functions: Hours, minutes, secondsPower Reserve: 60 hoursWinding: Mechanical automatic, self-windingFrequency: 28,800 beats per hourJewels: 38 jewels Pricing & Availability Steel variants: $6,250 (Silver Grey, Olive Black, and Blue Orange)Titanium: $7,000Fabric straps: $700 to $750Rubber straps: $550 to $600Bracelets: $1,150 for steel, $1,350 for titaniumAvailability: Steel Silver Grey, Steel Olive Black, and Titanium Chocolate Black are now available in Leica Stores and the Leica Online Store. The Steel Blue Orange Steel is available on April 17.For more information, click here.