A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Black Reference 79220N

October 15, 2015

Today, with the release of the Black Bay Black, Tudor has launched the third variant in its Black Bay Heritage collection, and its one that seats itself firmly in the center of the highly successful line of heritage pieces. Since the burgundy bezel version of this watch was covered so well and in-depth earlier this year by Jack Forster, Ill fly over some of the points he detailed with some basics. Here’s what I’ve told everyone who asked me what was on my wrist over the past week, and it’s the main thrust of this column: for just over $3,000, you can be a watch guy with the best of them. The Heritage Black Bay, though not based entirely on any one reference number, is a loving homage to Tudor dive watches of the past, and by association, to Rolex Submariners, from which Tudor originally took its DNA. And while the burgundy (and later a blue bezel) version were impressive throwbacks to a bygone era of watch design, the new black bezel Black Bay visually drives the concept home. You dont usually see the price of a watch listed until the end of a column, but it bears printing here: for $3,100 to $3,425 (on a strap and steel bracelet, respectively) you can own a watch that is a truly viable timepiece and not a holdover. While I love a good heavy hitting vintage piece as much as anyone, Ive long been an advocate for eliminating the perceptual five-figure buy-in when it comes to someone who wants to become a Watch Guy without having to make any major concessions. I like to think of Tudor as Rolexs Tyler Durden C an outlet for all the impulses and urges the company has, but is just too darn responsible to carry out without fear of consequence. Could you imagine a Rolex Submariner Heritage version of a 6538 Big Crown? (You know theyd call it a 116538.) It would be monumental C and probably disrupt their own market, but lets not be logical right now. Lets think for one more moment about a Rolex re-issue of a 6538. Now, lets forget about it, but not completely. Because if you ask me, what you have in the new black bezel variant of the Heritage Black Bay is a modern day big crown Sub, at least on a cosmetic level. And thats what makes this watch so compelling C it stands apart from its burgundy and blue-bezeled brothers. With a new black bezel, replete with red triangle over the 12 oclock position, this new Black Bay makes direct eye contact with its past. And thats what makes this watch extremely special. Until now, watchmakers always assigned a premium to their classic design language, and offered more affordable pieces with some built-in aesthetic trade-off. They effectively color coded wealth and status. With one simple and thoughtful design change, Tudor has shattered the price barrier for watch enthusiasts looking to wear something with uncompromisingly classic styling. Heres what Ive told everyone who asked me what was on my wrist over the past week, and its the main thrust of this column: for just over $3,000, you can be a watch guy with the best of them. Part of the fun of doing a Week on the Wrist is that I commit to one watch completely, and in doing so, Im forced to really get to know it by way of immersion. The first sense I had when I put it on (separate from it being a pre-release) was that wearing this piece is awesomely contrarian. To sport something with a very accessible price that in no way is hard to acquire was great fun. Because at its heart, there is nothing about this Tudor that couldnt hold its own at a table of top-tier collectors. If you knew enough to choose this watch, you have telegraphed your appreciation of the art, and thats all it takes to enter the conversation, as far as I'm concerned. The Case The case is slightly larger than the dive watches its based on, and it doesnt appear to be due to anything other than a less expensive and larger movement. Thats understandable for a watch in this price range, but its still the biggest giveaway that this is not a true vintage piece. Fashioned out of 316L steel, its the same metal that Rolex was using on their steel watches until they recently switched to their own 904L alloy. The top of the lugs are satin finished, while the sides are polished. Another great touch is that the case lugs are beveled, something Rolex no longer offers. (Score one point for looking like a true vintage piece.) I do find that the outer corners of the case lugs are quite sharp, something experienced more on a strap than a bracelet. This is one of those watches that’s hard to beat. Its price makes it easy for first-time collectors to grab one, and allows longer-standing enthusiasts a chance to remember what made collecting so exciting in the first place... The crown, slightly bigger than the ones Rolex offers on their sport models, has been appropriately modified, and looks great. Its the perfect evolution of a big crown, perhaps what one would have looked like if it were first made today. And the exposed PVD-coated crown tube cover (although at first I thought I hadnt screwed the crown down correctly) is a beautiful touch. The Dial The dial finish is one of the most impressive aspects of the Black Bay. When viewed against the right lighting, you can see elements of the matte flesh that the older and sought-after vintage pieces have. The gilt-style printing is the one element that aesthetically pushes this watch over the line into vintage territory. Its almost the exact color of an old gilt dial 5510. The printing pairs well with the color of the pink-gold-plated trim around the hands and hour indices, but this is where the watch takes the biggest hit in its attempt at attaining pure vintage nirvana. Theres a sheen to the trim that gives off a brassy kind of a glow, one that keeps reminding me that the adage you get what you pay for has stuck around for a reason. As with the past two iterations of the Black Bay, the face of this watch is rounded out with snowflake hands, vintage Tudor rose emblem and typeset, and a depth/movement information layout similar to a smiley face. One of the reasons I find myself drawn to this watch above other Tudors is that its shield logo isnt featured. If theres one type of snobbery Ill cop to, its snobbery in design, and Ive always had trouble getting past modern Tudor's simple and stodgy wireframe logo. Without that here to contend with, I find myself able to fully appreciate the soul and history of the brand. The Bracelet(s) Just as the Black Bay takes on an entirely new personality with a black bezel, so does the watch when its on either the (optional) steel bracelet or a strap. This is no different than the heritage pieces that inspired it; on the bracelet, the watch takes on a traditional mens rugged jewelry look, while on its supplied cloth strap meant to resemble a NATO strap (more on this in a moment) it is the perfect James Bond homage. This is the kind of watch that sports a classic neutrality that is perfect for switching NATO straps and seeing different characteristics emerge. Theres only one real drawback to the watch that isnt relative to its easily-accessible price tag: Tudor has enclosed a watch strap inside the box that seems to suggest user serviceability, but removing the spring bars is next to impossible unless you have a very specific tool that only professional Rolex/Tudor authorized dealers possess. This sends a very mixed signal that I know in my earlier years made for some pretty gnarly looking backs of case lugs, thanks to the futile attempt to use a traditional spring bar pusher to do the job. And in the case of the cloth strap, it appears to be a NATO thread through style, but actually has spring bars stitched into it. Its a smart idea in theory, but installation (full disclosure: I now have the Rolex tool) is remarkably clumsy, and adjusting the strap is a nearly impossible physics puzzle, no matter how you approach it. Conclusion After a week of wearing this watch, Ive really fallen for it. (I ended up bonding with it more once I switched to the cloth strap over the aaaaaaalmost-Oyster link bracelet.) This is one of those watches thats hard to beat. Its price makes it easy for first-time collectors to grab one, and allows longer-standing enthusiasts a chance to remember what made collecting so exciting in the first place: that when a watch finds balance in the elements of its own design, and then balance with the essence of the story its attempting to tell, its always worth owning. Pull out your suit, find a great NATO strap like James Bond wore, and throw this watch on. Youll see what I mean. For full specs and pricing on the new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Black, click here.For more on Tudor watches, visit their website.Photos: Will Holloway; additional photos: John Mayer