Introducing: The NOMOS Glashtte Neomatik 'First Edition' Watches, With Automatic Caliber DUW 3001, Launching In Ten New Models

October 08, 2015

NOMOS Glashtte has been around since 1990, believe it or not C here at HODINKEE we find it hard to imagine that the companys already a quarter century old, because theyve managed to keep a sense of inventiveness in how they present themselves, and in their watches, that makes them seem perpetually fresh. None of this is an accident, of course C in fact, a big part of the reason that NOMOS has as much goodwill from the watch community as it has, stems from its obsessive concentration on getting all the details just right. Weve all seen innumerable watches from innumerable brands that almost work, but that have that one niggling detail that, like a puncture in a balloon, lets all the air out of a design. NOMOS, on the other hand, manages to get all the details right again, and again, and again, with almost eerie consistency C and with an equally eerily consistent design language, which could easily start to seem repetitive or monotonous, but doesnt. L/R: Metro neomatik, Ludwig neomatik, Minimatik and Minimatik champagner, Tangente neomatik. Orion neomatik not available to for photography but will be available at the same time as the rest of the neomatik collection. NOMOS Ludwig neomatik In keeping with its everything you need, nothing you dont philosophy, NOMOS launched a new movement at Baselworld this year: the DUW 3001. DUW, by the way, is an acronym based on NOMOS full name: NOMOS Glashtte Deutsche Uhrenwerke. DUW 3001 is a very flat, full-rotor automatic movement, and the result of a very expensive development process C around 15 million, according to NOMOS, and the movement itself took three years, though that doesnt include the seven years that went into R&D for the NOMOS Swing System (their in-house escapement, balance spring, and balance, which form the heart of the DUW 3001). The movements kept the three-quarter-plate construction characteristic of NOMOS movements, although the balance cock has been replaced by a balance bridge. An interesting feature of caliber DUW 3001 is its height, or rather, its lack of height C at 3.2 mm its definitely one of the thinner full-rotor self-winding movements out there. ? For comparisons sake, the ETA 2892, which is generally considered to be a fairly flat movement, is about 3.6mm thick, and the worlds record holder for flattest full-rotor self-winding movement is currently the movement variously known, depending on whos using it, as the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920/Vacheron 1120/Audemars Piguet 2120/Patek Philippe 28-255. That movement in its simplest form (time only, no date) comes in at 2.45 mm thick, however to do so, it uses an unusual rotor system in which the outer mass of the rotor is supported on a beryllium bronze ring in which ruby rollers ride C a somewhat delicate, expensive construction (but one which works very well). By contrast, Rolexs caliber 3135 C a fair example, we think youll agree, of a sturdy, accurate, chronometer grade workhorse movement C is 6 mm thick. The contrast between these very thin, and more robustly built movements, shows that as a rule in watchmaking, there is usually a tradeoff between durability and rate stability, and thinness C but NOMOS feels it has nailed the former without sacrificing the latter. Howd they do it? No short cuts, just very careful engineering, and careful decision-making. For instance, caliber DUW 3001 is unusual in that almost all the components are below the ? plate C often, self-winding movements have the automatic winding train on a separate bridge, above the level of the main gear train. In DUW 3001, everything is on the same level, under the top plate, which means working in a space with only one millimeter of clearance. Theodore Prenzel, the deputy head of the NOMOS research and development division, has this to say:Almost all of the caliber parts were inserted between the base plate and the three-quarter plate. For this reason, the ratchet wheel had to be 50 percent flatter than usual; after all, the construction space between the base plate and the three-quarter plate is on average only 1 millimeter high. It is in this space where almost all the parts, which in other calibers are built up as modules, have to be accommodated . . . the NOMOS swing system has helped us in this caliber as well, ensuring the best accuracy. ? According to Prenzel, one consequence of this is that a flatter mainspring has to be used, which means the entire train had to be redesigned, and redesigned on a very basic level, including . . . the angle, order, and number of teeth in this caliber . . . in doing so, we were able to increase the effectiveness of the movement by 10 percent C up to 94.2 percent, which as any expert will know is remarkable. (Typical frictional losses in the going train of a watch are usually closer to 20 percent.) NOMOS CEO Uwe Ahrendt says, This movement is ready for series production, and NOMOS Glashu?tte for its launch into new market segments . . . DUW 3001 stands for best quality craftsmanship, outstanding technology, and for a modern Glashu?tte. Significantly, a test series of DUW 3001 movements passed the requirements for chronometer certification of the Deutsche Chronometerpru?fstelle (German Chronometer Testing Center). The really new news, for all you NOMOS fans out there, is that the new movement isnt just going to be available in the Minimatik, which was announced along with caliber DUW 3001 at Baselworld 2015. The movement is going to be offered in new versions of all NOMOS core models, which will collectively be called neomatik (the lower case n is going to be a typographical hallmark of these watches, incidentally). The Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Metro neomatiks will retain the compact and classic dimensions so characteristic of NOMOS design, and will be offered in two versions C one with cyan blue dial details, on a white dial; and a second version with a champagne dial and neon orange accents. The champagne dial versions will be called, logically enough, the neomatik champagner watches, and a champagner version of the Minimatik joins the lineup as well. Thats a total of ten new references, which are collectively called neomatik First Edition. Design-wise, the great news is that NOMOS has kept its sense of sureness and confidence about its minimalist approach intact, as well as its ability to nail fine details. Each of these watches is just as carefully composed as youd expect. That NOMOS takes design as seriously as it takes engineering isnt news to watch enthusiasts but it is rare enough to be worth mentioning. NOMOS is, by the way, a member of an organization called the Deutscher Werkbund, which was first established in 1907 for the purpose of fostering excellence in design, and whose members have included arts and design luminaries like the architect Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe, one of the founders of Modernist and minimalist architecture. The Deutscher Werkbunds original brief was to integrate traditional crafts and modern industrial production methods (its original motto was Vorn Sofakissen zum St?dtebau C from sofa cushions to city building) which is something that NOMOS approach to watchmaking exemplifies beautifully. The neomatik First Edition will be produced only in 2015 and NOMOS says that, . . . then, the watchmaking company will take a short break from neomatik C and will only continue with new neomatik watches in spring 2016, for the Baselworld show. Check out NOMOS' dedicated mini-site right here.Pricing for all the new models courtesy NOMOS; all prices in USD:Metro neomatik C 1st edition: $3,840Metro neomatik champagner C 1st edition: $3,960Minimatik C 1st edition: $3,680Minimatik champagner C 1st edition: $3,800Tangente neomatik C 1st edition: $3,460Tangente neomatik champagner C 1st edition: $3,580Ludwig neomatik C 1st edition: $3,360Ludwig neomatik champagner C 1st edition: $3,480Orion neomatik C 1st edition: $3,580Orion neomatik champagner C 1st edition: $3,700