Vacheron Constantin Launches The Ultra Complicated Reference 57260, Plus Multiple Drop Dead Gorgeous New References At Watches & Wonders 2015

September 30, 2015

This is shaping up to be an absolutely astonishing year for Vacheron Constantin. Even without the Reference 57260 (which we covered for you here, and here, and here) it would have been an impressive year for VC just on the basis of its new Harmony Collection (which, you might remember, we looked at here and here, and which we also covered in the latest installment of Three on Three). But then, they dropped the Reference 57260 on us C and now, at Watches & Wonders in Hong Kong, theyve give us even more. Lets start with a watch we fell in love with the minute we saw the pictures: the Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955. The name is just one of the many things that sound better in French; it means cows horns C and the watch is pretty much a solid, unadulterated dose of horological pleasure. This isnt the first time youve seen it, if you follow HODINKEE, but having seen it in the metal, we can assure you, its every bit as good as you, and we, thought it was when it was announced. Price, were told, is 62,000 but what price beauty. And with Vacheron Constantins own caliber 1142 as well. Everything you need, nothing you dont. ?Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache, 38.5 mm x 10.9 mm, platinum buckle with blue alligator strap. Caliber 1142, hand wound, column wheel chronograph, 3 hz, running in 21 jewels. There are also two new watches C one large, one small (referred to by Vacheron Constantin as ladies' and men's models) in the loge de la Nature family: the loge de la Nature Swan (or Swans, we should say). These watches are basically a gathering place for a number of horological decorative arts, including gem-setting, guilloch, enameling, and engraving. The two watches are 42 mm and 39 mm in diameter. Both are in 18k white gold; light blue Grand Feu champleve? enameling and hand-guilloche; diamond-set 18K white gold swan (322 round-cut diamonds), snow setting on the body of the swan, hand-engraved feathers, Limoges white enameling on translucent Grand Feu enameling. 39 mm model, 76 baguette-cut and 322 round-cut diamonds, total weight of approximately 4.9 carats; 42 mm model 76 baguette-cut and 432 round-cut diamonds, total weight of approximately 6.1 carats. Unique pieces. Next, Vacheron Constantin has announced three new watches as part of a ladies watch collection theyve dubbed Heures Cratives (Creative Hours, more or less). This collection consists of three timepieces that are showcases for both design, and for horological sertissage (gem setting). First of all, these watches go very much against the grain of many of even the most elaborately bejeweled watches, in using a mechanical movement. All three use Vacheron Constantins caliber 1055, which is a lovely piece of work.The three timepieces introduced are the Heure Romantique, the Heure Discrte, and the Heure Audacieuse. The Heure Audacieuse is, as are all the Heures Cratives watches, based on historic models C in this case, a watch inspired by a belt buckle, which Vacheron Constantin first debuted in 1970. Of the three, its the most suited for daily wear, but its a really versatile design (the press release talks a bit about the '70s as a time of liberation of women from traditional constraints of style) that would pair well with anything from a business suit to cocktail attire. There will be two references C one with snow-set, and one with baguette diamonds. The Heure Romantique is based on a 1916 model from Vacheron Constantin, influenced by Art Nouveau, featuring 104 round-cut diamonds, and a mother-of-pearl dial. A full pav dial model will also be offered. Finally, the Heure Discrte is a beautifully done secret watch, in the shape of a fan. A very special occasion watch if we ever saw one. Next, weve got two new references in Traditionelle Collection C both new interpretations of the Traditionelle World Time. One is in white gold, and one in pink gold (5N, specifically) and, as with the original, which we wrote about right here, the watches allow you to tell the time in any of the 37 time zones, including those with half or quarter hour offsets from GMT (most world time watches, as you probably know, show only time zones with full hour GMT offsets). The major departure from the original model is the use of engraved maps of the world, versus the colored map used in the original model from 2011. This isnt the first such treatment of the Traditionelle World Time C its the approach Vacheron Constantin used for the Excellence Platine version, in 2014, and like that model, the effect is, if less immediately eye-catching than the original, perhaps more harmonious overall as well. Very handsome additions, we think. The Malte Collection has two new references. Both are hand wound, time-only models, with tonneau-shaped cases (the defining trait of the Malte Collection) using Vacheron Constantins caliber 4400 AS. The news here is the use of a slate colored dial in both watches. In addition, two new Malte high jewelry pieces have been introduced. There are two models, one larger. The bigger uses Vacherons caliber 2795 (hand-wound tourbillon, two-day power reserve and has 1170 baguette cut diamonds, in a 38 mm x 48.24 mm case. The other, smaller model is fitted with caliber 1400, measures 29.30 mm x 39.60 mm, and has a total of 742 diamonds. Remember Vacheron Constantin's caliber 1731? You know, the supremely elegant and thin minute repeater that, at launch was (and we believe still is) the world's thinnest? We sure do, and for Watches & Wonders, it's been announced that you can now get it in platinum (it was originally introduced in red gold) with either a slate or silver opaline dial. Finally, theres a very interesting unique piece: the Ma?tre Cabinotier Perpetual Calendar Regulator. The watch uses a new movement, Vacheron Constantin caliber 2460 RQP. The dial features guilloch engraving, very handsomely done, in a case fitted with an concave bezel C which lightens the watch and sets it apart from more conventional timepieces in subtle but definite fashion. Movement 2460 RQP, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, self-winding 25.6 mm diameter, 5.4 mm thick. Approximately 40 hours of power reserve, 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 334 components running in 27 jewels.