Introducing: The Zenith El Primero A386 Revival

March 20, 2019

This year's biggest horological anniversary might be the 50th birthday of the Zenith El Primero. The incredible movement and the watch that introduced it to the world C the A386 C changed the game entirely back in 1969. Sure, there were other automatic chronographs unveiled that year, but Zenith's was the only one to feature a high-speed 5 Hz (36,000 vph) escapement for greater precision and accuracy. It has gone on to become one of the most storied movements of the 20th century and, despite briefly going out of production, it's been a mainstay in Zenith's arsenal for almost its entire lifespan.The big question was how Zenith would celebrate such an important anniversary. Back in January they showed us a box set of El Primeros that shows off the various incarnations of the movement from over the years, but fans have anxiously been awaiting that special standalone anniversary piece. What Zenith is giving us is the El Primero A386 Revival, a faithful recreation of the watch that started it all, only rendered in a trio of precious metals (white, rose, and yellow gold). The A386 Revival still measures up at 38mm across, still features a classic 5 Hz El Primero movement, and still has that distinctive tri-color dial. It's a quintessential El Primero through and through, just in a slightly more luxe package. Each version is limited to just 50 pieces and they are going to be sold individually, not as a three-piece set. An original Zenith El Primero A386. Initial Thoughts One of the conundrums facing Zenith fans over these past few months was an odd one: What would Zenith do to commemorate and celebrate the original El Primero since it already makes an almost identical watch and has for years. It turns out the answer was even simpler than the question. Zenith made the watch everyone would have expected, only they did it in precious metals and in very, very limited quantities. Honestly, I'm shocked that this watch is being made in 50 pieces per metal and not 500. The El Primero is a very popular watch and I've got to imagine that 150 pieces will be spoken for before you can finish reading this sentence.Now, as far as the watches themselves go, I like them quite a bit. That tri-colored dial has always struck me as one of the smarter and more subtle uses of color in watch design and the bold black inner track gives the watch some extra oomph. I do think I would prefer a slightly more contrasty dial with the yellow and rose gold versions (a la the ref. A381), but the white gold Revival is a total sleeper hit. Even looking straight at it, I don't think most people will be able to tell that it isn't a steel watch. Only by picking it up or wearing it and feeling the heft would you know. It's safe to say that this is one I want to get onto my wrist sooner rather than later. A closer look at the three colored sub-registers. The Basics Brand: ZenithModel: El Primero A386 RevivalReference Number: 65.A386.400/69Diameter: 38mmThickness: 12.6mmCase Material: White, rose, or yellow goldDial Color: White lacquer with tri-color sub-dialsIndexes: Arabic numeralsLume: Yes, on hands and hour markersWater Resistance: 100 metersStrap/Bracelet: Black alligator strap with rubber lining and gold pin buckle (matching case metal) The Movement Caliber: El Primero 499Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizersDiameter: 30mmThickness: 6.6mmPower Reserve: 50 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 5 Hz (36,000 vph)Jewels: 31Total Components: 278 Pricing & Availability Price: CHF 19,900 (same for all three versions)Availability: Summer 2019Limited Edition: 50 pieces in each metalFor more click here.