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Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on! Back in July, we did our very first call-in show, with Jack, James, and me taking turns answering the diverse array of questions that you all left as voicemails. We had a ton of fun and knew immediately that we needed to do another round. Well, the time has come. This time, I was able to sit down with Danny and Jon for our second go-around. We got a ton of great questions and barely scratched the surface of what came in. We cover a wide array of topics, from more mi...

When diving, one's depth is crucial in understanding the physiological effect of any dive. To prevent decompression sickness (or the need to make decompression stops), there is an agreed-upon understanding of how long a diver can spend at a given depth, with less time available as the diver pushes deeper underwater. Today, divers wear complex dive computers that manage their exposure, but in a sport with such narrow margins for considerable risk, if "one is none and two is one," then it always makes sense to have a backup.? While the non-watch nerd option would be a simple mechanical depth gauge, in this six-year-old post, Jason ...

Over the summer, the watchmaking duo of Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner presented what was to be the final edition of Urwerk's UR-210 watch, a classic of contemporary independent watch design that had become, since it launched in 2012, the reference I most associated with their company. Recently, they've announced the followup to the UR-210 in the form of the new UR-220, codenamed the "Falcon Project." Besides being quite a cool looking watch, the UR-220 introduces some new features, includes the return of others, and offers a glimpse into the next chapter of the UR-200 series. On the materials front, the UR-220 case comes in t...

There is no single watch brand which has become more a token of exclusivity than Richard Mille. Over the 20 or so years that the brand has been in existence, it has achieved many technical milestones C its tourbillon watches are worn, to take just one recent example, by a modestly successful tennis pro named Rafael Nadal, under circumstances which would not only be hazardous, but actually destructive, to pretty much any other tourbillon I can think of (they are, as a rule, quite delicate contraptions, but it has been the peculiar genius of Richard Mille to overturn expectations, with the tourbillon as with many other things). However, these technical accomplishments can sometimes be hard to ...

The tourbillon nowadays can sometimes seem very divorced from its original purpose, which was to improve accuracy. For most of its history, it was a troublesome mechanism to make. Because of the amount of extra energy it saps from the going train, making tourbillons was something which, after their invention by Breguet at the dawn of the 19th century, few bothered with unless they were obsessed with creating a technical tour de force of some sort, or in exploring the degree to which the tourbillon really could show definite improvements in performance that were actually due to the tourbillon itself, and which were not to some degree C perhaps mostly C due to the great care that had to be tak...

Welcome to another installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Chris Williamson, Yiming Lu, Raymond Bock, Kelvin Duckett, and Shevy Smith.?Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story. Chris Williamson And His Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Chis, w...

An exceptional horologist, Ferdinand Berthoud left behind a work of immense scope in the fields of marine chronometers, decorative watches and clocks, specialist tools, and scientific measuring instruments. In addition, Berthoud authored many books on horology, comprising over 4,000 pages with engraved plates. Chronomtrie Ferdinand Berthoud draws inspiration from the remarkable heritage of the Swiss master watchmaker while giving his work a contemporary twist. Celebrating the 250th anniversary of the accession in 1770 of Ferdinand Berthoud to the title of "Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy," Chronomtrie Ferdinand Berthoud recent...

Breguet, it will surprise probably no one to be reminded at this point in the global evolution of wristwatch connoisseurship, was born in Switzerland, but spent most of his working life (except for a brief interregnum when he returned to Switzerland to avoid the Reign of Terror) in France, and specifically in Paris, where his workshops were located at no. 39, Quai d'Horloge. You couldn't ask for a more central location; the building is on the ?le de la Cit, which is not only at the heart of Paris, but also a natural island in the middle of the Seine, which has been occupied since at least the time of Julius Caesar, and on which there has been a palace since the Merovingian Dynasty. The Quai...

It might not be as familiar amongst Japanese, but GMT watches are popular in Europe and the U.S., where people regularly travel across multiple time zones. I began traveling internationally often after I got into the watch industry, and I've been lusting for a few particular GMT watches for their useful functions ever since. Of those pieces, the Slim d'Herms GMT really spoke to me (it's been a HODINKEE favorite as well, and we even made a collaboration model in 2018).?Once you start looking for a GMT watch, you will realize the choices are not nearly as endless as you might think. Some of the major players are the Rolex GMT-Master II, a few models from Grand Seiko, the Omega Seamaster Plane...

Cast your mind, if you can, back to the last century, to an era when quartz watches were in their ascendancy and during which they represented the last word in portable timekeeping technology. Quartz watches had evolved with lightning-like rapidity from the early days when they had, more or less, aped mechanical watches. They developed a design vocabulary which was all their own and which celebrated the apparently limitless potential of the new technology. Calculator watches and multifunction LED and LCD watches put complications on the wrist which would have been unthinkable just a few decades before. Not only did such watches offer accuracy and functionality, the technology itself was cool...

Let your mind take you back to the 1970s and the design elements that we today most associate with that period. Cushion cases, of course. Fum dials, yes. And large, boxy applied markers were also of the time, and these elements have a way of evoking the period quite vividly. About two years ago, I covered a cool, then-new version of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe with a distinctively retro '70s-style dial. Certain elements of the design called to mind an earlier version of the Bathyscaphe from the 1970s. But while the '70s Bathyscaphe sported a cushion-style case and an inner bezel, the watch from two years ago featured a more conventional round Bathyscaphe desig...

David Stevens started his diving career wearing an entry-level Seiko, but as the work he was doing called for dives to greater depths, he felt it was time to replace it with a watch boasting a water resistance rating congruent to his advanced diving. His livelihood demanded he have a timepiece that functioned flawlessly, as his life would often depend on it. He worked as a technical diver for British Petroleum in the '70s and '80s, and the role saw him spending considerable time at the bottom of the North Sea, known for its dangerous and unpredictable nature. One time, Stevens remained at 355 feet for three days straight, forcing him to spend 22 days in a decompression chamber before returni...

The NOMOS Lambda collection has, until now, been all about the precious metals C namely gold. It has certainly been on the higher end of, if not one of the most expensive, watches the brand makes. Today that all changes C well, sort of. In celebration of 175 years of Glashtte watchmaking, NOMOS has announced the new Lambda collection, in stainless steel. There are three color variants in total that comprise these new releases, and they are a white dial, a black dial, and a blue dial C each being limited to 175 pieces, consistent with the anniversary.?I have said before that this is the year of the dial swap. Well, with this new release NOMOS has gone one step fu...

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that calls to mind a host of iconic, or at least iconic-adjacent, designs. There is the Reverso, the Master Control line, and the Polaris, just to name a few. Drawing on that heritage, JLC is introducing the new Polaris Mariner C a more sport-oriented tandem of dive watches C comprised of the Polaris Mariner Date and Polaris Mariner Memovox (featuring the signature alarm function). Both watches sport a 42mm-wide case design, in a blue and orange color scheme, that is decidedly modern in appearance while still maintaining the classic core design language of the Polaris as we have come to know it. Initia...

HourUniverse will be held on April 8-12, 2021 in Basel, Switzerland, at the site of the now-defunct Baselworld show, which had been held in Basel since 1931 (with earlier iterations of the show dating back to 1917). The new show is owned by the MCH Group, which owned and organized Baselworld. The dates were selected "in line with Geneva's watchmaking events," MCH said, referring to Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly called SIHH) and an affiliated show involving Rolex, Patek Philippe, and several other top Swiss luxury brands.? The new show seeks "to build a global, varied and interconnected universe; to provide today's tools at the service of the entire watch...

Before his ascendancy to the top spot at Rolex, watch executive Jean-Frederic Dufour was the CEO of Zenith, a highly regarded if decidedly smaller manufacture with its own track record of innovation and watchmaking achievements.? The companys most famous movement was then and remains the El Primero, among the first automatic chronograph calibers ever. In fact, it had been called upon by no less than Rolex itself, in 1988, when the Crown transitioned from the manually wound Daytona to the automatic version. In his capacity as Zenith CEO, Dufour had a reputation for his focus on the product, and that i...

The NBA Finals have arrived C in October, of all months C with the Los Angeles Lakers taking on the surprise Eastern Conference Champion Miami Heat. Now, if anybody out there has been watching the games, maybe you have seen some of the coaches on the sidelines sporting a host of cool pieces, ranging from G-Shock to Rolex. Heck, some coaches (I won't name names) have forgone watches entirely, in favor of the Walt Disney World NBA-branded bracelet, used to access their hotel rooms C an iconic look unto itself. But I am not here to talk about coaches, but rather a player. This is not just any player, but the "Brow" himself C Anthony Davis. The same Anthony Davis who...

Not too many moons ago, we took a brief look at some of the most commonly used escapements in mechanical watches. (I actually, and characteristically, went on a bit in that story, but given how much more could have been said on the subject, it felt brief to me!) One of the comments, from H. Community Member Chronos2, raised an interesting point, which was that I had not discussed Spring Drive at all. I had indeed not, having chosen to focus on Grand Seiko's new Hi-Beat escapement, but the more I thought about the observation, the more I thought I might indeed have missed something C and also, the more I wondered, based on a precise definition of an escapement, if you could consider the Sprin...

There is something undeniably fun about a bronze dive watch, and over the past few years, Oris has applied the alloy in the creation of a range of special models, many of which fall within its Divers Sixty-Five range of vintage-inspired dive watches. Recently, all of that warmly-toned timekeeping came to its zenith with a watch announced in June. Complete with what might be the friendliest caseback ever fitted to a watch, this is the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Holstein Edition 2020. Essentially, it's a small, bronze, wrist-borne statue created in celebration of the brands roots in the small agricultural Swiss village of Holstein. While Oris has done bronze before, here we get the fu...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on! A few weeks ago, Apple unveiled its latest smartwatches C the Apple Watch Series 6 and Apple Watch SE C?and plenty of digital ink was spilled analyzing every little detail, both here on HODINKEE and elsewhere. If you haven't seen my first look video for the Series 6, it's a pretty good primer for getting you up to speed. But we wanted to go deeper. We wanted to go beyond the spec sheet and offer up some behind-the-scenes info on the latest batch of watch faces, expl...

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