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Best Super NEWS Watches
Presented By A. Lange & Sohne: Twenty Years Of Lange 1, And 25 Years Of German Reunification
October 3rd, 1990, less than one year after the fall of the Berlin Wall, marked the completion of reunification of Germany. It is one of the most joyous days in German culture, and to us here at HODINKEE and the rest of the watch world, it is a day that set us out to witness some of the most creative, thoughtful, and innovative watchmaking we would see in our lifetimes.The name "A. Lange & Sohne" did not appear on the dial of a watch for forty 45 years. The artisan craft of haute horlogerie practiced in Glashtte was replaced by utilitarian watchmaking C simple watches, for not so simple times.?It was Germany reunifcation day that set Mr. Walter Lange on a course to rebuild his family's ...
Bring a Loupe: Highlights From The Upcoming Sotheby's Hong Kong Sale
On October 8, Sotheby's will be holding an "Important Watches" auction in Hong Kong. When it comes to the big watch auctions in Hong Kong, there are generally three constants in the catalog: watches with diamonds; watches from modern independents; and lots of modern Pateks C some of them with diamonds. This Sotheby's sale doesn't fail to disappoint in those areas. Below are some of the highlights.A. Lange & Sohne Langematik Anniversary I just love this Langematik Anniversary watch in platinum from 2001. Just check out the gorgeous enamel dial, Roman numerals, and that red XII. This 37 mm watch is number 133 out of a limit...
The Aquadive Bathysphere 500 Fleurier Twin Barrel Aquadive is one of those brand names that died out during the Quartz Crisis years but has been brought back to enjoy new popularity thanks to the uptick in interest in retro dive watches.?The new Aquadive brand has been careful to stay true to original designs while updating where it counts, like materials, movements and in some instances, size. Now the brand has announced plans to produce a version of its vintage-style dive watches with a manufacture movement from Vaucher Fleurier and its a pretty intriguing proposition.Aquadives first efforts since its rebirth focused on two Bathyscaphe models, the 100 and the 3...
A Week On The Wrist: The Autodromo Stradale
When Autodromo introduced the Stradale last month, it became the first automatic watch to gain a permanent place within the automotive-inspired collection. Weve become fond of Autodromos approach to design, as well as their use of the Seiko meca-quartz movement (not to mention their racing gloves and sunglasses), and with the Stradale, they look to broach new territory. The New York City-based brand represents a value proposition without compromising on wearability, and bespoke design elements. Can the Stradale retain these themes while moving to a purely mechanical platform? We spent a week with all three variants to find out. ...
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Day-Date And Power Reserve
Did you know that the stitching on an alligator strap could be platinum? If you did, its likely because you caught our coverage of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time Excellence Platine earlier this year, or the 14 day tourbillon from the same collection late last year. This fall, the Excellence Platine collection is getting another addition C the Vacheron Constantin Day-Date and Power Reserve.Lets try to review this dial with as much attention to detail as Vacheron devoted to creating it. First and foremost, the Excellence Platine treatment doesnt skimp on platinum. The whole point is in fact to conquer the metal and wield it wherever possible. ?The case is 39.5 m...
Introducing The Girard-Perregaux 1966, With Guilloch Dial And Reduced Sizing
Girard-Perregaux's 1966 collection got our attention last year. In our hands-on review, we deemed the 1966 Full Calendar to be very wearable and functional. Additionally, we admired the 1966 Limited Edition in enamel for its intricate miniature detailing and cloisonn work. Now, in that same spirit of decoration, Girard-Perregaux introduces the 1966 with a guilloch dial. Guilloch is the technique of engraving a dial in hollowed, concentric patterns usually by using a large, (historically) hand-cranked rose-engine lathe. The new 1966 model employs this technique to give the flinqu dial a slightly webbed appearance, with each arabesque section originating at the center and terminating at th...
One of the most fascinating things about the Patek Philippe of today is its distribution chain. The vast majority of its sales points in the United States are actually family-owned, single-shop jewelry stores, many of which have held the Patek account for decades, if not generations. Needless to say, this isn't the case because there is a shortage of jewelers dying to carry the brand. It has become something of a running joke within industry insiders that becoming an authorized dealer for Patek Philippe is next to impossible. In fact, Patek USA hasn't opened up a single new door in almost a decade C over nine years. Until now.Enter Windsor Jewelers, in North Carolina. This family-owned shop ...
The Stowa Partitio Black Automatic Based on a simple 1930s model from the Stowa archives, the Partitio Black Automatic retains much of the understated functional design that began to gain popularity at that time. Moreover, the slim proportions C 37 mm in diameter and about 11 mm in thickness C are a breath of fresh air for those who prefer more discreet and wearable watches. At just under $725, the three-hand watch with black dial and an unfussy case design presents good value relative to other vintage-inspired models with ebauche movements on the market today. The 37 mm stainless steel case features linear lugs. ...
Bremont has created some pretty special limited editions in the past, including the Codebreaker (containing material from Bletchley Park) and the HMS Victory (with oak and copper from the eponymous warship). Today Bremont unveils what might be the most ambitious watch they've produced to day, the Bremont Wright Flyer. Not only does the watch contain (according to Bremont) the company's brand new proprietary movement, but it also contains an actual piece of muslin from the wing of the Wright Flyer, the world's very first airplane. Seriously.?Honestly, Bremont is the only watchmaker that could pull off something like this. As if launching its very first in-house movement wasn't enough, it has ...
A Comprehensive Review Of The 5513 Matte Dial Submariner
Vintage Rolex watches are all about the details. The smallest differences can separate a relatively common $5,000 watch from a rare $50,000 watch, and learning about them is a never-ending journey. It's part of what makes vintage Rolex so much fun to collect. Last week a new website popped up dedicated entirely to picking apart the history of the reference 5513 matte dial Submariner, cataloging the many subtle changes in the matte 5513 over its nearly 20-year production history.The matte dial 5513 Submariner was produced from 1966 to approximately 1984 and the no-date, two-line dial makes it instantly recognizable. Over the years the depth rating changed (meters-first became feet-first), var...
In-Depth: A Look At The Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Plantarium, An Entire Solar System On Your Wrist
The Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Plantarium In this deep world of horology, its easy to lose sight of just how fascinating the careful assortment of gears, jewels, levers, and screws that make up a wristwatch movement really are. But when you encounter a watch like the Midnight Plantarium from Van Cleef & Arpels, youre forced to pause. Youre forced to pause and consider the elegant interplay of mechanics and artistry illustrated by a timepiece like this, in which an impossibly tiny solar system revolves around a dial in accurate harmony. If you stared at this watch for 29 years, youd see Saturn make a complete revolution around the dial. If you have a few ...
Hands-On: With The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel
Minimalism isn't a quality that immediately comes to mind when you think of Jaquet Droz. But while its elaborate automata and intricate enameling are certainly hallmarks of the brand, Jaquet Droz has a more restrained side too. The new Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel is the latest take on the pared-down design that first premiered in 2011. It uses a combination of grande and petit feu enameling to create a multi-tier dial with tons of open space and stark contrast. It's a study in why less, so often, is more. The star of the show with this watch is the dual-technique enamel dial. The main ivory white ground is created w...
Introducing The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition
We've told you about H. Moser's elegant perpetual calendar before, but today we have a new take on the design. Still with the incredibly stripped-down display, the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition combines a sporty black DLC titanium case and a solid-gold movement and dial for a new look and feel. This is a watch that straddles the dressy-sporty line in a way few watches can, and it's definitely worth taking a closer look at. This new limited edition starts on a firm foundation. When H. Moser first introduced its simple perpetual calendar in 2006, it took home the prize for top complicated watch at the Grand P...
It was on July 20th, 1969 that the Apollo 11 mission reached it goal and put two men on the surface of the moon. When Buzz Aldrin emerged from the capsule, it was with an Omega Speedmaster on his wrist C commander Neil Armstrong had to leave his in the capsule as its timing devices were malfunctioning. To celebrate the 45th anniversary of the first moon landing, Omega has released the Speedmaster Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, a titanium and Sedna gold Speedmaster with a classic movement and a unique dial. There's no better day than today to take a closer look. Importantly, the Speedmaster 45th Anniversary retain...
A Week On The Wrist: The Omega De Ville Trsor
Some would say that the glory days of the Omega dress watch are long gone, overshadowed by the success of their contemporary sports watches, which are undoubtedly brilliant. As nice as the modern day Constellation may be, it certainly doesnt capture the same magic that the Pie Pan once did, and the De Ville line cant seem to pull itself out of a very '90s aesthetic. All that changed at Baselworld 2014, with the introduction of the Omega De Ville Trsor, a 40mm, manually-wound beauty that quietly rose above the bevy of sports watches also introduced. While we all appreciated the modern incarnation of the Seamaster 300, it was the Trsor that lingered in our minds since the fair. ...
Introducing The HODINKEE Fund (And How You Can Get Involved)
Here at HODINKEE, we love watches and the people behind them. We are passionate about the craft of watchmaking, about doing things the old-fashioned way because you can, and about pushing the science of horology to new heights in the 21st century. And, most of all, we love sharing that passion with others. Today we are launching The HODINKEE Fund, though which we will spread the word about mechanical watchmaking, support those endeavoring to become watchmakers, and educate those who love all things horology. And the best part is we want you all involved.In addition to providing you with the very best stories about watches and the people behind them, and of course great products too, HODINKEE...
The Value Proposition: The NOMOS Tangente
Some watches cost $36,440 and are worth every penny. Other watches, like the Nomos Tangente, cost $2,330 and make you wonder why more companies cant (or wont) produce models offering this much value. The Tangente is the type of watch that makes writing this column easy. A little too easy. At this price point, theres no other modern brand that gets design, manufacturing, and quality consistently right C across a range of models, to boot. The Tangente is minimal without being sterile, modern without being brash, and above all, it houses an in-house movement, the Nomos Alpha caliber. This is a true Value Proposition. The stainless steel case is just 6.7...
Talking Watches: With Jean-Claude Biver
We are breaking our own rule with this one. When we launched "Talking Watches" last September, we did so with the express desire to bring you, our readers, the true collections of true watch lovers. That meant we would never feature anyone who has ever been paid by a watch manufacturer in any capacity C essentially, no ambassadors, no matter how big of a celebrity they might be. And as the following for TW has grown, so has the level of interest from those who would benefit from a mention in this series. But we've remained pure, showing you only real collectors, who truly love the watches they buy C and the man you'll meet today is no exception. But, there's a twist. ...
CONTEST: Answer Eight Questions, Win A Trip To The IWC Manufacture In Schaffhausen
It's been a little while since we've hosted a contest, but today we're pulling out all the stops. We're partnering with IWC to offer one lucky HODINKEE reader an all-expenses paid trip to Schaffhausen, Switzerland, to get an inside look at the IWC manufacture. And, of course, you'll be joined by a member of the HODINKEE team. All you have to do is follow HODINKEE and IWC across social media, where we'll be giving out clues for the eight IWC trivia questions over the next three weeks.Visiting a manufacture is the best way to get a true sense of what goes into high-end watchmaking. We can give you virtual tours, but nothing beats seeing watchmakers hand finishing a movement or adjusting a tour...
Hands-On: With The Glashtte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date
When you hear talk about German watchmaking, it's Nomos and Lange that seem to get the most attention. But that's missing a big part of the conversation. Last year we took you inside Glashtte Original's manufacture, and today we have a watch for you that really shows off what the Saxon powerhouse is capable of. The new Senator Chronograph Panorama Date debuts the caliber 37, an automatic, fully integrated, in-house, column wheel, flyback chronograph movement with a panoramic date function. This watch is no joke, people.? There is a lot to cover here, but let's start with the basics. There are two versions of the Senator Chronogr...