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Cover photo by HodinkeeParmigiani Fleurier has just introduced a very interesting new tourbillon: the Tonda 1950. This is one of the latest entrants in the competition which in recent years has become more widespread across fine watchmaking to produce extremely thin tourbillons Cthats a significant challenge for a number of reasons.To begin, lets consider the history of the tourbillon, its purpose, and the challenges involved in its construction. As we all know, the tourbillon was invented C apparently as a sui generis piece of inspiration C by Abraham Breguet, sometime in the late 18th century and he was granted a patent for the invention in 1801. Its a peculiar complication and the kind...

It's one of the best known, most dynamic, sometimes unruly but always passionate places for watch enthusiasts: Paneristi.com, and for 15 years it's been not only a place to come talk about watches, and about the common love its members have for Panerai, but also a place where you can feel a real sense of community and even family. Paneristi.com was started by Guy Verbist in 2000, and though it has a long and close relationship with Panerai it's always remained completely independent C and it's that independence and the dynamism it engenders that's endeared Paneristi.com to both its members and to Panerai itself. ...

This past weekend Paneristi celebrated its 15th Anniversary at a private residence and gallery in TriBeCa. HODINKEE was there to witness the excitement, as the North American President of Panerai, Rafael Alvarez, revealed the special edition Luminor Base Logo PAM00634 in honor of the celebration. It was a special night for all of those who attended, in particular the founders of Paneristi. The room was full of Panerai enthusiasts and collectors who mingled amongst a fantastic collection of vintage Panerai wristwatches belonging to a private collection. ...

It has often been said that there are very few complicated womens watches out there, but as I dive deeper into the world of womens watches, I have found that several brands are up to the challenge and are attempting to make complicated watches in a "feminine" interpretation. Glashtte Original is one of those makers taking a stab at this challenge. Glashtte Original, German in its roots, is historically known for its practical, classic wristwatches with in-house movements. So, it was surprising to me at first that they created a collection for women. The collection has three different models: the Pavonina, Lady Serenade, ...

Linde Werdelin has been in the game for more than 13 years now, and its safe to say that theyve honed their lightweight sports watch to suit the unique vision of founders Jorn Werdelin and Morten Linde. With each limited generation, the modular case and dial structure evolve in ways sometimes noticeable, and other times less so. At this years Baselworld fair, Linde Werdelin introduced the fourth generation of their SpidoLite family of watches, and while it still features exotic materials and featherweight construction, the design, and more importantly, the mechanics, have undergone some serious renovation since we last spent a week with one. Does the latest and greatest SpidoLite continue...

It's that time of the year again. The jury of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve C the world's most important horological awards C has been announced. Not only do we retain the illustrious Mr. Clymer, Goldberger, Dufour, Bacs, and more, but we also pick up a few new additions. The most notable of the new jury members is actually a HODINKEE alum C KISS drummer Eric Singer. In case you missed it, Mr. Singer sat for an episode of Talking Watches back in 2014 and it's clear the industry took note. You can see the entire video above and read about his collection here. We look forward to seeing the pre-selected timepieces for the 20...

We knew that Only Watch 2015 C hosted by Phillips with Bacs & Russo C would be good. I don't think any one of us expected this. For the first time in history, we will be seeing an officially unique product from the Rolex family. Yup, Tudor is participating in Only Watch, and today we have a glance at what we'll see. Boy does it look hot. The watch you see above is the incredibly rare Tudor Reference 7923, a watch we showed you when we went inside the Tudor Vault earlier this year. The watch is easiliy one of the most sought after and collectible vintage Tudors in the world, and it appears as if the folks at Tudor Geneva w...

This is a big one. We've already shown you a beautiful steel, sector dial Laurent Ferrier for Only Watch 2015, and as of late last night, an incredible unique Tudor designed to mimic one the rarest vintage Tudors of all time (also the first officially unique offering from Tudor or Rolex, ever!) but the Only Watch offering from Patek is something special. The reason being that, in year's past, the charitable auction has, at the end of the day, been something of a one trick pony with more than half of the entire sale's proceeds coming from one watch C the Patek Philippe.In 2011, a stainless steel 3939 (minute repeating tourbillon) closed in on 2 million dollars. In 2013, a titanium 5004 broach...

Kari Voutilainen is well known for his exquisite finishing and dial work. In fact, he recently bought the Comblmine dial-making factory to add to his workshop's dial-making capabilities. This shows in his GMT-6 for Only Watch 2015, with a unique dial.The white-gold dial combines guilloch and enamel techniques for a beautiful effect, with the GMT complication at 6 o'clock. The movement features Voutilainen's direct impulse escapement with two escape wheels, and is a joy to look at. The massive balance wheel beats at 2.5Hz, held in place by a thin, black-polished bridge. The 39 mm case is stainless steel, and features Voutilainen's signature teardrop lugs. ...

Hot on the heels of the Tudor and Patek Philippe, Phillips Watches has announced a new unique piece from F.P.Journe to be auction off at this year's Only Watch C the Tourbillon Souverain Bleu.This is the first time that F.P.Journe has participated in the Only Watch auction and they did not disappoint. Based on the Chronomtre Bleu, which we reviewed here last year, this is one of the few tourbillon wristwatches to be housed in a tantalum-case. This is not the first time that F.P. Journe has used tantalum, as it was used to case the Chronomtre Bleu Byblos Limited Edition. The Tourbillon ...

Some of the most original watch designs in recent years have come from a company thats not, for the general luxury loving public, especially associated with watches: Herms. However the company actually has a quite long history of offering timepieces under its name; the first Herms labeled watches were actually sold at 24 Faubourg St.-Honor in 1928, and the company had, for instance, relationships with companies as varied as Universal Geneve and Jaeger LeCoultre (in fact as recently as 2013, Herms collaborated with Jaeger LeCoultre in the creation of an Atmos clock) of many years duration. Perhaps, therefore, it is more logical as well as more reasonable to view their relatively recent...

Yet another release from Phillips Watches and the Only Watch Auction! Hublot has released a unique Classic Fusion Watch to add to the remarkable running list of watches to be sold this November 7.Hublot partnered with Brazilian artist Romero Britto to design the enameled dial, which was influenced by the Pop Art movement in Brazil. The dial is made of white gold and champlev Grand Feu enamel. The watch will be sold with the original artwork done by Britto that inspired the dial. For more information visit the Phillips Watches website here....

More news from the Only Watch auction: Herms has just released that it will be including the "In The Pocket" watch in the line up for the November 7 charity auction.Originally, the "In The Pocket" watch was inspired by the porte-oignon given to Jacqueline Herme?s by her father in 1912. The porte-oignon allowed Jacqueline, a keen horsewoman, to fasten her pocket watch to her wrist while she remained active. The design was re-designed and released in 2012 with the name "In The Pocket." The piece has returned to the market with a unique combination of rose gold case, black dial, and fitted into a H red Swift calfskin holster. T...

Peter Speake-Marin is participating in Only Watch for the first time in 2015, with the one-of-a-kind Resilience "One Art". Only Watch is a biennial charity auction of unique timepieces, all benefitting research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Speake-Marin's Resilience "One Art" model features the famous Piccadilly case in red gold, along with the Vaucher 3002 self-winding movement. For Only Watch 2015, the unique-piece features a red gold seconds hand, a sapphire set into the crown, and a beautiful engraving along the edge of the case. The Resilience "One Art" will travel with the international ...

Emmanuel Bouchet first attracted attention with Opus Twelve, designed for Harry Winston. Now, he inaugurates his eponymous brand with the Complication One. This timepiece pays homage to traditional watchmaking tradition while laying bare the intricacies of the movement. The Opus Twelve debuted at Baselword in 2012. Bouchets modus operandi in designing the Opus Twelve was to make the movement the centerpiece of the watch. In lieu of hands (a familiar concept), the Opus Twelve shows time with markers that spin as time passes. The Complication One takes what Bouchet achieved in the Opus Twelve and p...

The Lange 1 is a watch that isnt just iconic, its a watch that is so iconic that saying so is one of the biggest clichs in watch journalism. Clich it may be, but it is actually true C though interestingly enough, when the Lange 1 first debuted, it was considered a very innovative and even controversial design. Its a testimony to just how effectively A. Lange & Sohne, all the way back in 1994, hit the sweet spot for enthusiasts in terms of combining traditional Saxon watchmaking design cues with a fresh approach to dial composition, that the Lange 1 has in the subsequent decades become one of the most recognizable, and also the most imitated, watches in the world. ...

Participating in Only Watch for the sixth year in a row, Piaget releases the Altiplano 900P C for the first time with red hands. Piaget bills the Altiplano 900P as neither entirely a movement nor exactly a case C or rather, both at once. The Altiplano 900P merges both case elements and the movement, achieving a record-breaking slenderness at 3.65 mm, making it the thinnest watch in the world. Piaget takes its skills in ultra-thin watchmaking to the extreme with this timepiece. Each of the 145 parts is trimmed to a hairs breadth, including some wheels that measure a mere 0.12 mm. What results is a one-of-a-kind timepiece t...

This weeks Bring A Loupe C coming to you one day early due to the Fourth of July long weekend in the U.S. C focuses on some extraordinarily elegant watches in white metals. As you likely know, the average high-end watch from the middle part of last century was cased in yellow gold. Finding something in rose gold is nice, but finding something in steel, white gold, or platinum is even better. On top of these understated killers, we have two Universal Geneves C one benefiting from the bad bracelet discount on ebay, and the other one you likely want to avoid C plus some auction picks from the July 19th sale at the Monte Carlo Auction house. This is your Bring A Loupe for July 2, 2015. ...

It has been a big week for announcements for Phillips Watches. After releasing an initial list of watches for the Only Watch auction (see here, here, here, here, here, here, and here), Phillips has announced that Paul Maudsley, formerly of Bonhams, will be joining the team as the International Specialist, Director of the London Watches Department.Paul, a Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, started as a collector at the young age of 13. Over the years he has developed a keen knowledge of horology spanning across the fields of wristwatches and other timepieces. Paul spent 16 years at Bonhams where he shaped the UK auction market. He orchestrated countless auctions spanning three ...

In February 2015, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) announced Watchmaking 101: Introduction to Watchmaking. The weekly class was based on a course which HSNY developed for the New York City Public School System in the 1950s. A huge number of people signed up to take the class, with students attending from around the world. Today, HSNY introduces three new classes for students wishing to learn even more. HSNY'smission is to advance the art & science of horology. Teaching our classes and developing new curriculum satisfies this mission, andis incredibly fun to do!– Luke Cox-Bien, HSNY Director of Education ...

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