Best Super NEWS Watches
We're out in Las Vegas this weekend for the Couture Watch And Jewelry Show (follow behind the scenes here) and while much of the product on display is merchandise we've seen before, there are always a few under-the-radar gems that make a first showing here C this high-end Heuer is one such example. What we have here is new Heuer (no "TAG" anywhere on this dial!) chronograph capable of displaying up to 1/100th of a second. Now you may remember some years ago that Heuer's HH department (haute horlogerie) was producing some truly insane high speed chronographs (remember this thing? Just wild!), but since the arrival of Mr. Biver, TAG has put the focus on accessibility. This, however, brings us ...
The Evolution Of The Parmigiani Fleurier Senfine Watch, Part 1: Pierre Genequand
Last SIHH, one of the most interesting developments in mechanical horology in many years was shown by Parmigiani Fleurier: a concept watch dubbed "Senfine" (Esperanto for "eternally") with an exotic new high frequency escapement that offered a 70-day power reserve in a watch, as we reported at the time, about the size of an Omega Speedmaster. In this series, we'll look at what inspired the escapement, and how it eventually found its way into a working watch. The escapement has no real parallel in modern watchmaking, and the story of how it came to be is one that begins with a retired physicist with no real background in watchmaking C but who had, as they say, a bit of time on his hands. ...
In-Depth: The Panerai Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT (And How It Works)
We first heard the announcement that Panerai had created a minute repeater with a bit of skepticism C Panerai, after all, is still for many at its core a technical dive watch manufacturer, and not a maker of complications, much less high complications, much less the most demanding of all high complications to really pull off. However, the initial specs from Panerai were impressive: a two-time-zone, decimal repeater wristwatch capable of chiming either home time, or local time, on demand; something that as far as I know has never been done before. Last month I finally had a chance to see and hear it live, at the Panerai boutique in Florence, and I think the watch makes an extremely interestin...
Having brought watches "home" to Switzerland last month, auction houses are now taking them on the road. After heading East, towards Hong Kong, Christies is going in the opposite direction, towards New York, in order to present their latest catalogue. Held tomorrow at Rockefeller Plaza, the Rare Watches & Exceptional Complications sale presents a consolidated catalogue C only 169 lots are being offered C featuring historically important watches C dont miss Bens take on the impossibly beautiful stainless-steel Lange 1 C and watches belonging to historically important men. These include a Ulysse Nardin pocket watch that traces back to President Franklin D. Roosevelt (Lot 43) and a small...
Photo Report: A Retrospective Online Exhibition: Every Horological Machine From MB&F, HM1 To HM6
Last year was the 10 year anniversary of MB&F. The company is remarkable for many reasons, but one of the most interesting things about MB&F is, in a way, that it's still there at all. Being a relatively new, independent watch brand, especially nowadays, is a risky proposition; the leverage and resources that come from being part of a larger group aren't available, and you don't benefit from the heritage that older independent firms like Rolex, Patek, and Audemars Piguet enjoy (though heritage presents a whole different set of challenges). In the years since MB&F was founded, there have been many attempts to make watches that push the design language of watchmaking and many, mayb...
Introducing: The (Amazingly Light) Ochs Und Junior Annual Calendar Light
Ochs und Junior is one of those companies that manages to make its presence actually seem necessary, in a world (mechanical horology) of questionable necessity overall. ?They are, on one level, a modest little outfit turning out a few, unobtrusive, design-forward, insider timepieces per year; on another level, they're one of the most genuinely subversive luxury watch manufacturers out there. ?If there's any company that's making a place for themselves in the luxury world by insisting on abandoning, or directly undermining, everything that we generally assume luxury stands for, it's Ochs und Junior. ?They've just announced their most recent watch: the annual calendar LIGHT. ...
Reminder: The HODINKEE Pop-Up Shop Opens Tomorrow Morning At Harrods In London
Just a reminder to all of our UK-based and UK-bound readers that HODINKEE is in London this week, and will be hosting a pop-up at Harrods from June 9th to 12th. The team has put together a killer selection of vintage watches, ranging in brands, styles and (good news!) prices. These include an incredible 13ZN flyback chronograph from Longines, a full set Speedmaster reference 145.012, and the mighty Daytona (we have three!). Tissot Oversized Antimagntique. Of course, we also brought along a bunch of HODINKEE accessories, including our straps, watch rolls, and pouches, and a few surprises. For the first time in Europe, custom...
For quite a few years now, the auction market for rare and very desirable Patek Philippe models has increasingly become, for most of us, a spectator sport. Still, purely from a connoisseurship standpoint, there is something intrinsically interesting about this particular lot, coming up at Sotheby's Important Watches auction tomorrow. Not only is this one of a very few reference 1415s with an enamel dial, but it's also one of only two known to have an enamel map of Eurasia, and it is absolutely fresh to market. According to Sotheby's, this watch (lot 213) has never been offered at auction before. The last reference 1415 with a...
A Week On The Wrist: The Bremont Regatta Oracle Team USA
Sailing and watches have long been a natural fit. In addition to a target market of largely well-heeled participants who can afford to accessorize their yachts with luxury timepieces, there is the obvious timing element of regattas that lends itself to colorful chronographs. Many watch brands that have sponsored yacht racing in years past have faithfully trotted out nautical-inspired timepieces. It was only three years ago that the final showdown for the Cup between Oracle Team USA and Emirates Team New Zealand pitted two heavyweight watch brands against each other: TAG Heuer, then Oracles timing partner, and Omega, which continued its long relationship with the Kiwis. But after Oracle took...
In-Depth: The Patina Diaries: Living With The Tudor Black Bay Bronze
The Black Bay Bronze is one of those watches that, whether intentionally or not, serves as a reminder that nowadays, a lot of us find it hard to settle down and make a commitment to That One Special Watch. The whole point of the Black Bay Bronze, I think, is to watch it gradually change, from one day to the next. Seeing the patina on the bronze slowly begin to darken the original, almost milky-gold hue of the bronze of the case is an enormous pleasure, taken one day to the next. If you get one, and it just sort of goes into the rotation so that every time you see it, it's drastically different C well, that takes a lot of the joy out of it. Watching patina development is an incremental pleasu...
One of the most popular videos we ever did here on HODINKEE was Talking Watches With John Mayer. It was, in actuality, supposed to be a one-off C a look at a well known watch lover's favorite pieces. That video aired all the way back in October of 2013, and to be totally frank, we were just winging it C two guys talking about a few watches with Will there to film it. Now, 22 episodes later, it's safe to say Talking Watches is one of our benchmark editorial products; and so we thought it might be kinda fun to bring back our original guest C Mr. John Mayer C to pick up the conversation and focus on just one of his many horological passions C IWC. ...
Did you know that mechanical watches run at different rates in different positions? Dynamic poising is an important skill that allows watchmakers to minimize these positional errors. The operation is fairly straightforward as long as it is understood why each adjustment is made. The history of dynamic poising allows us to appreciate the value of a well adjusted movement and the difficulty involved in making dynamic adjustments. For the June meeting of the Horological Society of New York, John Teifert will discuss the history, theory, and practice of proper dynamic poising. The image above shows a tourbillon cage and balance in a poising tool. The idea is to make...
We kinda all knew 2016 would be a tough year for watches. Jack made mention of seriously slumping new watch sales here, and talk to any retailer and you'll hear the same story C things aren't like they used to be. The changed buying patterns of the Chinese make up a big part of the global drop, and the most turbulent election cycle in, well, maybe ever, isn't helping things here in the US. But, vintage is a different story, right? Kind of, yes. The Phillips Steel Chronographs sale was a smash success, and Christie's Geneva also proved strong. The result from Hong Kong, however, told a slightly different story, as Arthur wrote here. So, how would two sales do in our own backyard of New York? ...
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At HODINKEE's First European Get Together
London, your watch game is on point. Not that we ever doubted you. But we had never really had the chance of meeting up with the British contingent of our readership C until this week. On Tuesday, HODINKEE took over Bart's C a late night speakeasy and, in retrospect, perhaps one the most American bars in London C and met with some of the UK's most enthusiastic watch collectors. Here's what they brought along with them. Mulco Chronograph with moonphase, 38 mm. Angelus Chronodato. Rolex Daytona Reference 116500LN with black dial. Rolex Daytona...
Bring a Loupe: A Selection Of Vintage Chronographs From Rolex, Wittnauer, Yema, And More
This week, Bring A Loupe presents you with a varied selection of vintage chronographs, from the ubiquitous Rolex Daytona, to some less well known, but still high quality manufacturers. You'll discover a yachting chronograph from the French brand Yema, and a Wittnauer 242T that was once considered by NASA. We will also show you a very uncommon IWC Mark XII with totally different dial and case. This is your Bring A Loupe for June 10, 2016. A Yema Yachtingraf Regate Jumbo, Quite A Special Chronograph Unless you are French, you've probably never heard of the brand Yema. Yet, they used to produce some kill...
As you may have heard, team HODINKEE is currently in London for our very first pop-up abroad C and we're doing it at the legendary Harrods of Knightsbridge. Arthur, Cara, Louis, and Ashley have been holding down the fort since Thursday and have met dozens of readers, friends and collectors in the hallowed halls of the Harrods Fine Watchmaking room (have a look at our live feed here) and things have been going so well, we're sure that well be back in London soon enough. However, for this inaugural pop-up shop, only one day remains, so if you want to take a look at some amazing vintage watches and hand-made accessories in person, tomorrow, Sunday, June 12th, is your last day to do it. ...
Editorial: Aged Watch Dials: Good Investment, Or Ticking Time Bomb?
In 1993, a Daytona 6239 "Paul Newman" hammered at Antiquorum for $9,257. In 2013, the same reference hammered for $75,000 at Christie's, and since then prices have continued to rise. This may be a challenging year for newer watches (pre-owned or new) but the most desirable vintage models, especially those in good original condition, are still C to all appearances C blue chip buys and investment opportunities. And yet, much, or even most, of the value of some very collectible watches rests on something that was never intended to last forever, and which may well deteriorate out of all recognition in the lifetime of its owner: the dial. Aging of a watch dial and ...
The Value Proposition: The NOMOS Glashtte Tetra Neomatik 33mm
To say that a NOMOS watch is incredible bang for the buck is like pointing out to someone that the Sun is essential for all life on Earth. It's something for which we are all grateful, but it's also so ingrained in us that we just don't give it that much thought. Still, though, it bears repeating from time to time. After all, it never hurts to count your blessings. So let's talk Tetra. The word "tetra" is Greek in origin and means four of something, more or less; and, by extension, something square (a tetrahedron has four sides; the fish known as a Tetra gets its name from the longer Tetragonopterus, which means "square f...
Introducing: The Omega Planet Ocean Deep Black Collection (Full Specs & Official Pricing)
Coming fresh off a release in New York City, Omega is here to show a brand new case style to the popular Planet Ocean line C that of a fully ceramic diver with GMT function! It sounds simple enough, but Omega has a few new little traits here that they say separate the Planet Ocean Deep Black, as the collection is being called, from its competition. The entire Planet Ocean Deep Black line is a large 45.5 mm in diameter. They are all built from a single block of ceramic, and feature helium escape valves at 10 o'clock. Inside, you'll find the excellent OMEGA Master Chronometer caliber 8906. As you may remember, all Master Chrono...
Hands-On: The A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar In Platinum
Not long ago, I was given the opportunity to knock off two things from my bucket list when I tried on the Saxonia Annual Calendar while attending the 2016 Concorso dElegenza, in Como, Italy. Ignoring, for a moment, the wonderful setting that surrounded me, I focused on the watch that was on my wrist. The A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar is one of the very few modern watches that I find genuinely beautiful. Okay, so its not new C the watch was introduced three years ago C but since this years Saxonia Moon is not available yet, I thought it would be nice to revisit what is essentially its ...