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Best Super NEWS Watches
Piaget specializes in an area of watchmaking that is easy to understand aesthetically, but a little more difficult to grasp in terms of the very real technical challenges it poses. Ultra-thin watchmaking is something relatively few companies really excel in, and for several very good reasons. Piaget brochure, 1960. (Photo: Courtesy Piaget) The evolution of the ultra-thin watch didn't really get started until the development of the so-called Lepine caliber in the mid-18th century. Before then, watches were of necessity pretty thick thanks to the nature of the escapement used for most watches C the verge escapement C which has a...
In news first reported by the New York Times, Richemont chairman Johann Rupert has announced a new foundation in direct support of traditional master craft. Called the Michelangelo Foundation, the Geneva-based non-profit will serve as a digital platform for young, independent, and upcoming artisans on which the South African billionaire hopes they will be discovered and supported. In the revealing and candid interview in the New York Times, Rupert makes it clear that he is fed up of the status quo in luxury and that this foundation will help change that. The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph is a thin, hand-made chronograph from one of Rupert's brands. ...
Sometimes the world of vintage Rolex watches can feel a bit opaque. And the world of the extremely collectible Paul Newman Daytona can feel like trying to see through a sheet of lead. Luckily, we're here to help. After the recent frenzy for special, extra-rare Paul Newmans at the Geneva auctions in November, it seemed like a good idea to give everyone a refresher on what these watches are, how you can tell one from another, and why collectors can't stop going crazy for them. Watch the video above and be sure to check out Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Paul Newman Daytona for the full story....
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomtre Collection, Now In Rose Gold With Grey Dials
Three of Jaeger-LeCoultre's most complex watches have been redesigned with pink gold and opaline magnetite dials ahead of SIHH 2017. The Duomtre line is already unique not simply because of its outstanding aesthetic appeal, but also due to its engagement of the "Dual Wing" concept, which dedicates a separate barrel to each watch's timekeeping and complication gear trains. Let's give each watch a quick review and look at how the new versions stand up to the originals. I have always found grey watch dials to communicate a certain gravity. Grey is a somber color, but its also mature, elegant, and inexplicably earnest. It makes for a pensive dial, something e...
Just after Baselworld of this year, our editor in chief Jack Forster gave us a superb look at a watch that, as he put it then "is a reminder of why Patek enjoys the reputation that it does," a true grand complication in its reference 5204R. The split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in rose gold was introduced with a silver opaline dial and offered on a lovely leather strap C a traditional offering, not intended to offend anyone. Today, however, we caught wind of a new take on the 5204R, and it's a big, bad mother if there ever was one. The new 5204R uses Patek's in-house caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q with split-seconds and perpetual calendar mecha...
Hands-On: The NOMOS Nachtblau Collection, Four NOMOS Classics Get A Cool Dark Blue Treatment
When I say the word "NOMOS," what probably pops into your mind's eye is a slim, modern-looking watch with a silvered dial. Those traits have been finely honed over the last two-and-a-half decades, giving NOMOS an instantly-recognizable design language. But sometimes the German watchmaker likes to break its own rules. The new Nachtblau collection is a perfect example of this, four classic NOMOS watches rendered in inky midnight blue with bright accents and the manufacture's latest movements. The Minimatik Nachtblau This is far from the first time NOMOS has opted for colorful dials. There have been tons of limited editions and s...
When Stephen Urquhart stepped down from his position as President and CEO of Omega, the Swiss watch company decided to promote from within. Raynald Aeschlimann had been with Omega for 20 years, which meant hed been able to absorb the culture of the company under Urquharts direction and participate in its drastic transformation and revitalisation during the Jean-Claude Biver era. Omegas decision to appoint Aeschlimann to the top post, instead of turning to an executive outside of the Swatch Group, or, even, outside the watch industry, is a strong vote for stability.However, Aeschlimann does not shy away from controversy, and in one of his first big media appearances as the Omega CEO, an in...
Business News: Bremont Pulls Out Of Baselworld 2017, Will Show In London And New York Instead
Bremont has just announced that it will not be showing at Baselworld next year. In lieu of setting up shop in Switzerland next March, the British watchmaker will release its new collection both at a London townhouse and an event in New York City. While it is news to hear that Bremont will not be part of the watch world extravaganza that is Baselworld, it is actually not surprising that another watch company has left the fair as a new trade show and release schedule landscape is developing. In addition to Bremont's exit, Timex (who manages Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace, Versus, and Nautica's licensed watch businesses) announced recently that it would not be s...
Tomorrow evening, Team HODINKEE will be making its way out to Greenwich, Connecticut, to enjoy a cocktail or two at Manfredi Jewels, a must-visit spot for any watch lover. Roberto Chiappelloni of Manfredi Jewels and our own Ben Clymer will be welcoming guests for drinks, hors d'ouvres, and, of course, tons of incredible watches, along with special guest Peter Speake Marin, founder of his own eponymous watch brand. It's going to be an incredible night and we'd love you to join us. In case you're not familiar with Manfredi, it's one of the all-time great watch retailers, stocking over 30 top brands, including everything from Audemars Piguet to Rolex to F.P. J...
While Heuer's ties to motor racing are well known, TAG Heuer played on its less well known past connections with the sport of boxing to launch a watch celebrating the legendary Muhammed Ali. This commemoration comes just months after the boxer's death, yet this 43mm piece demonstrates that a lot of attention was put into its development, blending vintage traits into a more modern platform. What could simply have been a good marketing coup turns out to be a nicely crafted watch, which as a bonus, comes in at a competitive $3,000 price point. The two rotating rings track boxing rounds and recovery periods. The Special Edition Tr...
Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 34
In anticipation of its debut at SIHH 2017 (and its 225th anniversary) Girard-Perregaux has released a couple teasers, including a new addition to the iconic Laureato Collection. Initially released in 1975, the Laureato is known for its steel case construction and integrated bracelet (reminiscent of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas), however this time they have recreated the sporty watch in a ladies' version C the Laureato 34.? The Laureato 34 in satin-brushed steel and bracelet. The Laureato 34 in satin-brushed steel with leather strap. The new Laureato 34...
Earlier today, Artnet News reported that Dallas-based auction house Heritage Auctions has filed suit against Christie's and its subsidiary Collectrium. Collectrium is a paid subscription-only database service for collection building and collection management with over 11 million listings spanning categories like art, design, watches, jewelry, and other collectibles. The only problem is, Heritage is claiming that as many as three million of these listings were scraped from its extensive catalogs without permission.? Heritage alleges that Collectrium employees set up bogus accounts to collect listings data from the Heritage website, then going on to add those...
Say hello to the winner of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve 2016, in the Sports Watch category. That's right: this is the jury's pick of the litter, and it's not like competition wasn't strong; other contenders included the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark, the Ressence 5B and the Heuer Monza. We thought, therefore, that we'd judge the merits of this diver first hand, and see what could explain such a significant recognition for a brand primarily known historically for its vintage chronographs and split-seconds chronographs. Without spoiling too much, let's say that it was a very convincing test-drive C with the exception of the most frustrating clasp ever encountered. ...
Introducing: The Casio G-Shock 'Hammer Tone' MRG-G10000HG-9A In Gold, Celebrating 20 Years Of MR-G
Casio's G-Shock is probably the most widely known and loved ultra-tough tool watch in the world, and for much of its history, it's been just about everywhere humans have gone and needed a watch that can take considerably more punishment than would be needed to kill its owner. However, the G-Shock is more than that C it's become a symbol as well, thanks partly to its incredible durability as well as the instant recognition G-Shocks enjoy, despite the diversity of G-Shock designs. It has also, thanks to its adoption by many celebrities, become one of the most unlikely, if widely visible, status symbol watches C as well as a vehicle for expressing the combination of technology, and traditional ...
Tough times for the watchmaking industry? Certainly, with news of layoffs, buying back unsold stock, and considerable fall-off in profits dominating business news this year. But according to an interview reported in the Swiss press?(in French)?there's one very notable exception: Richard Mille, which says its turnover this year is up 20%, "mainly due to higher average prices." According to the story, Richard Mille's turnover this year is expected to be around CHF 225 million, and Mille says that between 3,500 and 3,600 watches are expected to be produced, compared to 3,200 last year. Mille also acknowledges that while there were indeed discussions about the ...
One of the wonderful things about watch collecting is that there are an incredible number of different levels on which you can go at it. Sure, we all spend a lot of time hearing about a lot of the same things, from a lot of the same auction results, to a lot of coverage of brands that because of their sheer size and industry influence are news (like Cartier, Rolex, Omega, and TAG Heuer). But at the same time, there are pockets of almost pure scholarship here and there, where collectors are motivated not by brand image or the hope of making a solid investment, but by pure enthusiasm. First State Watch Factory 15 jewel wristwatch, 1940. ...
Last year we were introduced to the Bulgari?Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which at the time was the world's thinnest minute-repeater in production. Well, now Bulgari has added a ladies' piece to the Finissimo Collection C the Bulgari Lady Finissimo. In fact, this is the first ultra-thin tourbillon produced for women by the brand (following on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon). The Bulgari Lady Finissimo Tourbillon. This watch is an interesting choice for Bulgari, which is generally a brand associated with the Serpenti that I not-so-secretly am obsessed with love, and big and bold jewelry. But the company has recently ve...
Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC, A Dressier Take On The Manufacture's Worldtimer
Jack Forster once called Girard-Perregauxs 1966 collection the G-P "for the rest of us." He was referring specifically to the more versatile, everyday pieces in the line-up, such as the steel full calendar and the dual time model. After all, the 1966 collection also includes tourbillons, enamel dials, integrated column-wheel chronographs, automatic skeletons, and minute repeaters too. Well, nowe we can add one more complication to the list: the worldtimer. By sheer association, if nothing else, these more complicated pieces raise the profile of the 1966 collection, and advance Girard-Perregaux's overall standing in the world of high watchmaking. All of tha...
Hands-On: The Maurice de Mauriac L1, A Customizable High-Design Watch From Zurich
The L1 was originally introduced just before Baselworld 2014, and was a big departure from both the modern sport watch and classic dress watch lines for which Maurice de Mauriac was generally known. There's a good reason for that: It was designed for the Zurich-based brand by Swiss industrial designer Fabian Schwaerzler. The designer is best known for his chairs and stools, and there's a pretty good chance that at some point you've sat on something designed by Schwaerzler. I've always found the look appealing, and now that the watch is available in a few configurations and sizes, I wanted to dig in and see which I liked best. If you're not familiar with Sc...
This week, we look at some highly unusual vintage watches, two of which have real mysteries surrounding their origin. Specifically, we're looking at a Rodania that is an almost exact duplicate of a well-known military Lemania, and a Zenith El Primero with a formerly unknown yellow gold case. The rare Angelus Chrono-Datoluxe, and the soccer-dedicated Breitling are much better documented, but no less interesting in their inventive variations on the chronograph complication. This is your Bring A Loupe for December 16, 2016. Breitling Reference 34-31 Made For Soccer Referees They are plenty of vintage chr...