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Vintage chronographs have a magic that is all their own, and there are plenty of examples where a specific movement became a sort of brand unto itself. For Longines, a company with a rich history of making sporty pilot's chronographs and other watches made famous by the likes of Charles Lindberg, collectors have come to adore the now legendary 13ZN.? In this truly "in-depth" look at early Longines chronographs, HODINKEE alum Ph Zhou offers a roadmap to the birth of the 13ZN and the story behind the brand's chronographs in the 19th and 20th centuries. It's a trip full of blued steel hands, monopushers, column wheels, and a whole l...

I find myself leafing through various coffee table or reference books on watches more and more often these days. They are a useful resource that allows me to take a break from the barrage of screens in my life. Being able to unplug and read up on various obscure watch references, or learn something about a brand I am not fully aquatinted with, is a really relaxing (and educational) experience. So, when I saw this article and book review from Quill & Pad come across the Watchville feed, I was immediately intrigued.? The team over at Quill & Pad reviewed "Retro Watches" by Josh Sims and Mitch Greenblatt. The review showcase...

Swiss watch exports in May experienced a "second month of quasi-paralysis," according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). Global watch exports fell 68% in value to CHF 655.6 million ($690 million) and 71% in units (527,000) compared to May 2019 because of the continuing global coronavirus crisis. That steep decline followed an 81% drop in value in April.? The data measures "sell-in," the value of shipments from Swiss factories to agents around the globe. It does not reflect "sell-out," sales to end-consumers. Nevertheless, as with the April statistics, it offers a striking portrait of an industry brought to a standstill by COVID-19.? ...

The right watch can just about summon the warm ocean spray on your face and sand on your toes. That's basically what Seiko offers in their Save the Ocean line of watches C a collection born from a partnership with Fabien Cousteau (grandson of Jacques). The Save the Oceans watches have become something of a yearly release for the brand, pairing fun watch design with a good cause (the proceeds of each watch go to help preserve the Earth's oceans). Early this year, Seiko unveiled two new additions to the line in the SRPF77 and SRPF79, featuring a grey/blue, almost misty colorway C perfect for a plunge. Those are fine-looking watches...

Parmigiani Fleurier may not be the first name on the lips of fine watchmaking enthusiasts when the world's top haute horlogerie brands are discussed, but the firm remains, despite this, one of the quiet giants of Swiss fine watchmaking. The company was founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani with the support of the Sandoz Family Foundation. The latter has many activities, but supporting Swiss fine watchmaking is one of its most important (the foundation was set up in the 1960s by Edouard-Marcel Sandoz, whose family had founded the firm which eventually became Novartis), and Parmigiani Fleurier sits at the center of a constellation of companies which are not particularly well-known to the averag...

From April 28 to May 12, 466 participants entered their personal designs in #WatchesAgainstCovid19 design contest. The prompt was simple: Contestants download the high-resolution drawings of the Ressence Type 1 Slim and put the colored pencil to paper to express their creativity. CEO Benoi?t Mintiens created the competition with an analog component in mind. With the ever-increasing presence of digital technology helping solve challenges put forth by COVID-19, Mintiens thought it was time "to express our creativity by swapping your keyboards and video conferences for a set of colored pencils and a sheet of (real) paper." The desig...

One of the more interesting features of This Year In Watches is that, despite the more or less complete disruption of normal communications practices and product release schedules, there have still been quite a few new complications released. In some cases, these are design updates to existing mechanisms; in some instances, technical updates. Completely new technical innovations are a relative rarity, but this is largely due to the fact that the basic vocabulary of complications is well-established, from the simple and annual calendars all the way up to things like rattrapante chronographs and minute repeaters. Our editors have taken a close look at the many complicated timepieces which have...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review, and tell us which guests we should have on! Can I get a drumroll, please? No? Alright, fine. We'll unveil the results of the 2020 Summer Watch Fantasy Draft anyway. As usual, our producer, Grey, was the only person who knew the vote count when Cara, James, Jon, and I hopped on a group call to find out which of our collections of five beach-ready watches came out on top. In addition to announcing the winner, we also talk about which watches we wish we could have picked and what draft we might have to do next. ...

This summer, Seiko released the SRPE27 "Monster" PADI Special Edition,?a dive watch in collaboration with the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. There have been countless Seiko divers "double stamped" with the diving association's logo over the years, but this marks the first time a proper "Monster" has held that distinction.? For starters, Seiko doesn't name its watches C Seiko collectors do. Over the years, fans have coined such nicknames as the "Tuna," the "Samurai," the "Sumo," the "Turtle," and of course, the "Monster." In reality, Seiko (and Grand Seiko for that matter) names its watches by reference number alone. Certain nicknames have stuck t...

This week, we're back in the groove of old and gold, as evidenced by a round-up featuring three pieces produced in the warm-toned precious metal. For the triple calendar crazed, there's an example dating back to the 1940s from Universal Genve, plus a more complicated chronograph by Heuer in 14k yellow gold. At the baller-most end of the spectrum, the gold trio is rounded out by a Ref. 1675 without crown guards, while still addressing more accessible pieces in the form of a steel Vacheron Constantin and a military watch from Hamilton. A fun time is in store, and you're invited. 1963 Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675 ...

The Omega Constellation family of watches is one of the oldest in post-World War II Omega production. Although it is superseded in visibility by the Speedmaster and Seamaster watches, the Constellation pre-dates the Speedy and came out only a few years after the first Seamasters, with the first Constellation watches launching in 1952 (there is an excellent synopsis of Constellation history by Maria Doulton, over at Monochrome). Those watches, with their distinctive pie-pan dials, are among the most aristocratic timepieces any company has ever made, and to me, they are one of the great dress-watch (whatever that is) designs of the last 70 years of wristwatch manufacture. The Constellation has...

After a decade of making their truly unique and visually stunning watches, Ressence recently announced their Type 1 Slim X. And, while their dial layout is about as straightforward as one can envision, the mechanics within are anything but. For some added context, let's rewind the clock almost five years and take a look inside the theory and execution of a Ressence watch. ? Published back in the fall of 2015, our Technical Editor Nicholas Manousos sat down with Ressence's founder Beno?t Mintiens to better understand the complexity behind the simplistic effect of the brand's design language. It's an exceedingly interesting post pa...

On September 4, 1839, a small watch shop on the Quai des Bergues in Geneva, which sits just across the Rh?ne from the Old City, and which had been open for just a few months, sold a pocket watch. The watch was a complicated one C a chiming complication, of the type known as a quarter repeater, and while the movement had been made in the Valle de Joux (as was the case for most complicated Swiss watches at the time), it had been assembled, finished, timed, and cased in Geneva. The records of the shop, run by one Antoine Norbert de Patek, and his partner, Fran?ois Czapek, say that the watch was only the 19th they had ever sold, and that the owner, who paid 450 Swiss francs for the watch, haile...

In the arena of Patek Philippe, the perpetual calendar chronograph plays a singular and outsize role. When you consider the sheer quantity of auction catalog covers that such watches have graced, it would be fair to say that this combination of complications defines, on a certain level, what Patek is, or at least how it is viewed. Any day that Patek announces a new watch that advances what has become a great tradition of perpetual calendar chronographs is a big day in the world of watches. And that's what we have with the announcement of the Patek Philippe ref. 5270J C the first watch in this reference to feature a case made from yellow gold, which in itself, come to think of it, is somewhat...

Another day, another new blue dial version of a great watch, but here, the stakes are considerably higher. The color comes from Patek Philippe by way of a rich blue Grand Feu enamel dial for their seriously impressive 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph. Fitted to one of the finest and most limited watches in Patek's line up, an additional reference for the 5370 is a huge release and a strong reminder of Patek's competency when it comes to heavy-hitter complicated watches C you know C like classic hand-wound split-seconds chronographs.? For those of you who might not remember, the 5370P was launched at Baselworld in 2015 with a black ...

F. A. Porsche in his design studio. Porsche Design was originally founded by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, who left Porsche to found the Porsche Design Studio in 1972. "Butzi," as he was nicknamed, is most famous not for the watches he created after leaving the company, but for the design of the 911. His wristwatch designs have not left as deep and indelible a mark on horology as the 911 did on automotive design, but they are still a significant part of watch design history, and they remain, for the most part, as instantly recognizable as the inarguably more famous automobile.?The very first Porsche Design watch was an all-black chronograph from the first ...

Each and every Wednesday, we present a fresh installment of "My Watch Story," a video series starring HODINKEE readers and their most prized watches. The submissions continue to stream in, and we couldn't be happier to share them with the watch community. Today, we have five new stories submitted by Levon Shant Ekmekjian, Howie Woiwod, George Kidwell, Ibrahim Chowdhury, and Nicholas Delaney.Feeling inspired, or just discovering this project? Please scroll down to the bottom of the page to learn how to submit your own video. But first, we hope you enjoy this installment of My Watch Story. Levon Shant Ekmekjian And His Swatch Chronograph ...

Ludwig C 175 Years Watchmaking Glashtte If NOMOS sees further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants. While the young German brand may represent the future of German watchmaking, they certainly aren't shy about paying respect to its past. The origins of the watchmaking tradition in Glashutte date back 175 years to 1845. Today, NOMOS is releasing a trio of watches that tip the Tyrolean hat to the greats that laid the groundwork for Glashtte to become the epicenter of Teutonic watchmaking.? The Ludwig neomatik 39 Using the Ludwig model as a starting point, NOMOS has created three lim...

In all the years that I've been writing about Jaeger-LeCoultre, I really thought that I'd seen everything at this point. Gyrotourbillons, ultra-thin watches, square Reversos (remember those? the Squadra, gone but not forgotten), lubricant-free high-tech concept watches (the Extreme LAB), complications of every description C well, the list is long. Apparently, however, there is one thing which I have not seen and which nobody else has seen either from JLC, and that is a complete calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Jaeger-LeCoultre says that they have never done one before, and they should know, but as Jon Bues wrote in his Introducing coverage it still comes as a surprise to hear it C if yo...

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement.?Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown.? Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appro...

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