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Best Super NEWS Watches
Interested in selling a pre-owned watch? Get your quote. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here. This Week's Pre-Owned Favorites As we march through the heat of the summer months, our focus has turned firmly to watches fit for the season. What better way to enjoy the first real summer in nearly two years than with a new C well, pre-owned C watch that brings a bit of flavor, maybe a pop of color to your wrist? Buying pre-owned when it comes to something like a summer watch is the way to go in our opinion. Say you find that the pop of color was a bit too much for you after a few months or that this bright ...
Introducing: The Soothing Simplicity Of The Slim d'Herms Squelette Lune
In a world where high end luxury in general, and high end watchmaking in particular, are dominated by multibillion dollar publicly traded groups like Swatch, Richemont, and LVMH, Herms has continued to maintain both its independence as a company, and its independence in terms of its design vision. This plays out as much in its watchmaking as anything else. Herms timepieces, with their emphasis on elegance of execution and attention to detail, are generally immediately recognizable. Its most distinctive family of watches are the Slim d'Herms models. These have in common a thin profile, tapering lugs, and thin bezels, combined with a unique typeface designed by ...
In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph Says, 'Take Me To Your Leader'
When the Code 11.59 collection launched back in January of 2019, it was as if we'd gone to a restaurant called Le Controverse, sat down, and ordered the Controverse appetizer, with the Controverse Flamb main course, extra la sauce Controverse Grand-Mre Ancienne Grald Genta on the side, and to drink, naturellement, a couple of magnums of Le Grand Vin De Audemars Piguet Premier Grande Controverse 2019. I wouldn't exactly say cooler heads have prevailed since then C a conflagration that is still smoldering to the tune of 500+ comments is no more likely to go out overnight than the Centralia coal fire C but there has been enough water under the bridge for the noti...
Introducing: The Tutima M2 Seven Seas C Now In Yellow And Orange
Just in time for colorful dive-watch summer (Im not complaining), Tutima has recently expanded its titanium-clad M2 Seven Seas dive watch line with a pair of bright new iterations in Signal Yellow and Signal Orange. Available with either a full titanium bracelet or a hybrid Kevlar/rubber strap, these punchy new M2s are 44mm wide, offer 500 meters of water resistance, and a day/date display in a decidedly Teutonic dive-ready package. If youre going to go for a large dive watch (the Di 300 series was of a similar size at 43.5mm), the shorter case length (from lug to lug) aids in comfort and the hooded lugs make that possible. Tut...
If Pizzas Were Watches: Ten Tasty Takes On Topical Timepieces
When you think about watches all day they invariably creep into your other thoughts, and one day not long ago, we (it wasn't just me) began to ask ourselves a question."What kind of pizza would this watch be, if this watch were a pizza?" is probably not up there with, "Why did the apple fall from the tree?" or "What is it like to ride on a beam of light?" or even, "would you rather fight one giant Philippe Dufour, or a hundred miniature Philippe Dufours?" It is, however, a question which, in its own way, throws an odd, albeit neon-pizza-sign-tinted light on the ups and downs of tastes and preferences, and we present you herewith, with the fruits of our research. I'd serve up a few pizza rela...
One To Watch: Meet HSNYs Promising Young Scholarship Winners
Watchmaking is quietly facing a generational crisis. There are simply not enough young watchmakers to replace the current generation of tinkerers and crafters after they retire. And as anyone who has patiently waited for their repaired watch to return to its rightful place on their wrist knows, thats not great news. Fortunately, the Horological Society of New York is doing something about it. The organization started offering monetary support to individuals and educational institutions in 2017, and this year added two new scholarship categories: The Benjamin Banneker Scholarship for Black watchmakers and the Oscar Waldan scholarship for Jewish watchmakers, which...
Sunday Rewind: Crystal Gazing: HODINKEE Founder Ben Clymer's Vintage Value Picks, From 2013
2013 doesn't seem like all that long ago, and of course, it's not C just eight years, which means if you bought a watch back then, it might be due for a service by now, come to think of it. But of course, we don't measure time just by the numbers. There has been a lot of water under the bridge since then, in the wider world, and in the watch world, too, things have changed dramatically. Everything from how watches are sold, to how much they cost (alas) has been transformed, and the pace of change doesn't look likely to slow down any time soon. With that in mind, we thought this Sunday we'd Rewind the clock to 2013 and to an artic...
In-Depth: Built To Last: The Oris Caliber 400
In October of last year, Oris announced a new in-house movement, the caliber 400. The caliber 400 is the brands second in-house movement, and it was preceded in 2010 by the caliber 110, which is a hand-wound movement with a ten-day, unusual non-linear power reserve (in which the size of the arc representing a day increases as the mainspring winds down) and a single, very large mainspring barrel. The caliber 400, on the other hand, has two barrels and is an automatic caliber, designed for maximum efficiency and longevity. The watch has a five day power reserve and, remarkably, the recommended service interval is ten years. The idea wa...
My first article, on in-house movements, ran on June 1, 2015. Over the last six years, HODINKEE is not the only thing that's changed, of course. The watch world has evolved at a dizzying pace as well, and the watch internet has gone from being an interesting appendage, to the center of both communication and commerce. I've been able (or maybe "been enabled" would be more accurate) to make stories at HODINKEE that range from extremely granular technical coverage of specific complications, to videos with some of my own personal horological heroes, to hands-on coverage of just about every major release from every major brand, which for a guy who used to look longing...
Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Jackson Big Eye
Based out of Chicago and holding a place among many enthusiasts favorite microbrands, Oak & Oscar has announced a new limited edition version of its Jackson hand-wound chronograph C the Jackson Big Eye. Like all of Oak & Oscars creations, the Jackson Big Eye is meticulously detailed, made in limited supply, and more than ready for everyday wear. Tucked inside the Jackson Big Eyes 40mm steel case, Oak & Oscar has opted for a date-free version of the movement from the original Jackson, released in 2017. Employing the Eterna Caliber 3907M with column wheel-equipped flyback functionality, a stacked chronograph sundial,...
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Is Back C In Stainless Steel and 38mm
A half century down the line, Zenith is still finding ways to keep the A386 alive and interesting, with limited editions and tribute models. Today's release of the Chronomaster Original is particularly interesting because it's not limited, and it's exactly what the enthusiast base asked for. It might be the most important A386 model to come out since the original dropped in '69. The A386 Revival ?in 2019 was practically a facsimile of the 1969 original, but was rendered in three precious metals and has long been sold out. There were only 50 pieces in each metal: Yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. If you wanted the A386 with ...
One To Watch: A Midwestern Brand With Vintage Style
In undergrad at Gustavus Adolphus, Weston Cutter didn't even like watches. When his father gave him a watch as a graduation gift, Cutter gave it back. Now older (at age 42) and wiser (he came around on horology), he's the founder of Haven Watches, a small operation creating off-beat modern watches from vintage designs. He's from Minnesota, and now lives in Fort Wayne, Indiana, where he teaches English at The University of Saint Francis. Cutters father was a business executive and gave it all up in his 50s to learn the craft of watchmaking. When Cutter had his first daughter, his dad tried again to share his passion, giving Cutte...
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Modern Panerai Hand-Winders
You can spot a Panerai from across a room thanks to its sheer size. The XXL cases and corresponding crown guards have become the brand's calling card C and helped to kick off an early aughts trend toward bigger watches in general, but there's another attribute that's defined Panerai from its early days: An old-fashioned manual wind. Panerai's North American president, Philippe Bonay, who was with the company as it was taking off in the late '90s, remembers retailers being flummoxed by the largely hand-winding range of sport watches that he was trying to sell them. They'd been trained to expect automatic movements by other brands,...
In-Depth: The Nivada Grenchen 'Paul Newman' Limited Editions: Vintage Without The Headaches
What do we all really want from a vintage watch? We want a good watch. Of course we want a good watch. And we want more. We want to feel a connection to something C to the past, and very likely, an idealized past which probably never existed. But we want to imagine it's a nice one, and we want to imagine, when we have a vintage watch, that we have a little magical connection to some personal Golden Age. The basic problem with vintage watches, is that they can be, in many critical respects, a handful of headaches waiting to happen. That aged lume that charms with its luxuriant patina is actually a scab over the wound of time, ready to flake off if you look at it c...
Vintage Watches: A 1960 Heuer 'Pre-Carrera,' A 1970s Enicar Ocean Pearl, And A 1970s Movado Datron
To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here. Want to sell your pre-owned watch through Crown & Caliber? Click here. This Week's Vintage Watches While you won't find a Hollywood-quality trailer in this week's vintage-watch assortment, there's enough here to satisfy the mid-week boredom of even the most discerning watch lovers. White-dialed chronographs are the clear highlight this week, but watches with "non-lume" dials or slide-rule bezels follow clo...
Norqain made an immediate splash shortly after its 2018 founding, establishing relationships with highly regarded retail partners right out of the gate. Then it became one of the few, and by far the newest, brands to tap Tudor movement manufacturer Kenissi's high-quality chronometer-rated automatic calibers, providing a differentiating factor from other new watch companies that routinely count on makers Sellita or Miyota. Not that there's anything wrong with either of those movements, mind you. In fact, today, we're taking a look at two recently launched 42mm Norqain watches, one powered by Sellita and the other Kenissi. ...
Hands-On: The Perfect Starter Tourbillon Has Arrived
I know just enough about tourbillons to know that I don't know enough about them. I'm no Jack Forster. But after wearing the Horage Tourbillon 1 for about a week, I'm one step closer to understanding why they've long fascinated anyone into watches. The tourbillon was conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795 as a way to combat the effects of gravity on a movement, and increase accuracy. Since then, it's become a symbol for high horology and luxury. In my normal watch-wearing life, I'm naturally drawn to rugged tool watches with interesting backstories, like ones that use an industrial-grade ETA-2824 movement, or an SW200, or a 6...
Editors' Picks: 20 HODINKEE Radio Guests To Follow On Instagram
Devoted HODINKEE readers (thats you!) will recall that we recently shared a list of our editors' favorite Instagram follows C some small, some big, some funky, some flashy. Great accounts. Great list. However, you may have noticed some conspicuous friends of HODINKEE missing from that list. That's because we were saving them for ... this. Over the years our podcast has welcomed so many watch-world luminaries that we needed to make a separate story just for their grams. Follow indiscriminately below, and you'll have all the watches your Instagram can handle. Tom Brady Seven-tim...
Four + One: This Ice Cream Mogul's Wrist Has Some Serious Drip
Ryan Fitzgerald never thought he'd wear a Rolex, let alone a Rolex on a NATO strap, while churning out ice cream at 1-900-ICE-CREAM, the Philadelphia company he founded that uses an e-commerce storefront and a flavor "drop" model to sling wild varieties of ice cream to Philadelphians, but here he is. "Rolex was just too conservative for me and I didn't really think it was going to be my thing," he says. Then he discovered, as he says, the "Rolex with an orange lightning bolt." Fitzgerald spends plenty of time in the freezer. It's an occupational hazard. He's talking about his Milgauss. It's beat to hell and he wears it on a NA...
Interview: The World As UNIMATIC Sees It
Next Thursday, July 8, the HODINKEE Shop is introducing the UNIMATIC HODINKEE H Series, our first limited-edition collection with the Italian sport-watch specialist C you can sign up for first access right here.UNIMATIC is a portmanteau, blending "unique," or unico, with the Latin suffix "-matic," which means "willing" or "able." It makes sense, then, why Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, UNIMATIC's founders and designers, seem to prefer operating the brand on the fringe, threading the needle between watch-insider validation and the worlds of fashion and streetwear. This duality has defined UNIMATIC through its first six years of operation. Milan, UN...