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When I first started learning about watches, I often experienced emotional whiplash. I'd read a fascinating depiction of a watch, complete with photos, plus a deep dive into the history of the model and the author's specific relationship with it C and I'd find myself longing not only to see it in the metal, but also to perhaps own it someday. Then, inevitably, I'd scroll to the bottom of the page, see that it cost more than my car, sigh heavily, and move on with my life wishing that 20 years ago I'd invested in Amazon. But over time, something changed. I realized that I'm probably not ever C no matter how much money I have C going to ...

Its just a regular watch, for a regular guy, Thomas Canavan tells me. I think I mighta paid 10 bucks for it, I dont recall. Maybe at Walmart? All I remember is, I bought it because I needed something reliable. I was taking the train to and from Grand Central every day, and if you learn one thing doing that, everythings a matter of seconds. But the watch? Theres nothing special about it, really. But of course there is something special about the watch. And about Canavan. A quartz field watch made by a brand called Milan, which is a trademark held by the M.Z. Berger company, the piece sits encased in a small box beneath a pin-li...

Ronny Chieng is having a moment. The already busy stand-up comic, Crazy Rich Asians cast member, and Daily Show correspondent, appears in Marvel's Shang-Chi, which premiered earlier this month and has settled in comfortably at the top of the box-office rankings. Ronny can also currently be seen on Disney+ in Doogie Kamealoha, M.D. While Chieng is a laugh a minute, he's serious about his watch choices C with a collection focused mainly on Rolex, Omega, and Seiko. Some of the watches came from his late father, while others were sought out as part of an enthusiast's path he credits to watching videos right here on HODINKEE. ...

My father was a criminal defense attorney on the south side of Chicago. He made quite a name for himself C so much so that, after he died, Id continue to hear stories about him from people I often thought were strangers: a roofer from a job one summer, one of my doctors, countless business owners, and, of course, family and friends. Things were going well for him at work, at a firm he owned with another partner. So, in 1988, two years after I was born, he bought a brand new yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 18038. This was basically the watch of the decade and I remember my dad wearing it pretty much everywhere. My father wearing ...

In Watch of the Week, we invite?HODINKEE?staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain piece. This week's columnist is our very own Deputy Editor.? In my family lore, one particular Christmas looms large. I was four or maybe five years old, and I distinctly remember waking up on Christmas morning to a ton of presents. Im sure I unwrapped a doll and some books, maybe a hip toy, but I also unwrapped a pillow. And some socks. At the time I was just happy to open stuff up, and it took a few years for me to stop and go huh. But if my parents were going to have to buy me some staples anyway, why not do so with a little festive cheer? ...

Capturing the many stops on the continuum of seasonality has become an important feature of Grand Seiko dial design. In Japan, there is a nuanced view of the changing seasons. It goes beyond the four cardinal seasons and includes hyper-specific slices and precise moments when weather and seasons change. They are known as the 24 sekki. And these can be further divided into 72 distinct microseasons that make up a year. Today, we have two new watches that do this beautifully, Soko Frost, named for the period of Autumn when the first frosts appear. One Hi-Beat, the other Spring Drive. Each is a special edition for the American market with an icy blue textured dial. T...

The tendency to collect makes perfect sense if you view it through the prism of evolutionary biology. Humans need food, clothing, and shelter to exist. These items are precious, as without them we cease to exist. The drive to have enough is deeply ingrained across pretty much all the species we live with on this planet. The pika, a small tailless high-altitude rodent with a unique whistle, must collect enough forage for winter. These animal habits are so ingrained that we teach them as fables; metaphors to encourage children to think long-term. Early birds get worms. Collecting is the inescapable drive of propagation. Of course, since we as humans have tamed this...

Here we are again, once more around the sun C which means it's time for the most anticipated HODINKEE year-end tradition. This year, we've introduced watches, handled watches, sold watches, insured watches, reviewed watches, and talked watches. But what did we, the HODINKEE team, actually wear the most in 2021? Turns out, just about everything C from AP and Blancpain to Omega and Weiss. To recognize the growth of the HODINKEE universe in 2021, we've included some selections from our Crown & Caliber colleagues in Atlanta C and, as a bonus, the watches worn most by a few Talking Watches guests. We hope you enjoy this last look at 2021 as we welcome a new year. ...

If you've stopped by one of our weekly Vintage Watches articles, you may have seen my name nestled in the bunch. Picking out a favorite from each week's drop is one of the best parts of my job C a 1960s Favre-Leuba Bivouac back on March 24 sticks out in my mind as a highlight, as does, more recently, a 1967 Tudor Submariner. A 1960s Favre-Leuba Bivouac Ref. 53213 on bracelet A 1967 Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928 With the year coming to a close, we're doing some reflecting here at the vintage desk while also looking to an extremely compelling 2022. As has been c...

Annnnnd we're back! Over the holiday break, we shared 50 of the H Editors' favorite stories of 2021. Nestled into our post was a poll that asked you, the good readers of HODINKEE, to tell us which of those 50 ranked highest in your collective esteem. Here are your top five.? #5: Watch Spotting: Uncle Sam Wants YOU To See These Watches, Which We Found In Government Archives Cole's collab with Justin Couture of The Wristorian scratched a historical itch that resonated with many of you. Head on over to the story to peruse some of the most interesting watches in the government archives.? ...

For the attorney and watch collector H. Jane Chon, quarantine ushered in a major change in her approach to collecting. Despite being a self-proclaimed pack rat (I feel like things are mine and Im going to just sit on them, she says), Chon became detached from many personal items during quarantine C save for her watches. I had to wear a watch every day because it felt very comforting, she recalls. But in turn, that meant assessing whether each watch was earning its keep. I had too much time to think about each watch and began asking: Why do I have this? Why do I have money sunk in this, paying insurance on it? I work for a living and I suddenly thought, N...

Bvlgari has established itself as the?Master of the Estetica della Meccanica, balancing savoir-faire and the innovative aesthetics of ultra-thin watches to create groundbreaking timepieces. This expression of the fusion between cutting-edge design and the technical expertise of Swiss watchmaking is an exercise of the highest complexity, seen in Bvlgaris mastery of highly complicated watches, including the whole typology of chiming timepieces: 2, 3 and 4 hammers, from the?Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater?to the?Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie. Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in titanium In 2021, Bvlgari explored a new facet of its?Este...

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) commences 2022 (its 156th year) with the addition of two trustees, world-renowned watchmakers Roger Smith and Romain Gauthier. The independent watchmakers join HSNY as Trustees William Massena and Michael Friedman fulfill their five-year term limits. HSNYs Board of Trustees grows with talent and guidance from global industry authorities, who come together throughout the year to guide Americas oldest watchmaking guild and implement new programs to help fulfill HSNYs mission of advancing the art and science of horology. Smith and Gauthier's appointment coincides with a time of incredible international growth for HSNY, w...

Hi everyone, and welcome to another episode of Hey, HODINKEE! where you ask, and we do our very best to answer. Your hosts, as usual, are HODINKEE Editor in Chief Jack Forster, with HODINKEE Deputy Editor Nora Taylor as the voice of the audience. Are the Space Jam: Legacy watches the ultimate in brand collabs? This time around we take on a question only a serious watch enthusiast would ask: Why do watch brands make watches with odd-sized lug widths? Another reader wrote in to ask what exactly the difference is between field watches and pilot's watches (it's not a spoiler to say that it can be pretty hard to tell the difference...

Kari Voutilainen might be the busiest man in independent watchmaking. Born in Finland but long based in M?tiers, Switzerland, Voutilainen has won eight separate GPHG awards, and owns and operates one of the watch world's most in-demand dial-making facilities as well as his own movement manufacture. He's also a proficient creative collaborator with watch companies large and small C?often leading to lucrative results. Kari Voutilainen at the 2020 GPHG But when the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire Urban Jrgensen C a company he began working with in the mid-1990s, during the early years of hi...

For anyone getting interested in watches for the first time C interested in watches as watches, not just as incidental objects for telling the time C the natural first question is, how do you tell a good watch from the merely mediocre or the downright terrible? The question can be very baffling, and even more so the more you find out about watches. Wristwatches exist today, even if you leave inexpensive quartz out of the equation, in what seems an almost infinite range of prices and quality. We assume that as the price goes up, quality goes up as well, but what does that mean? Why is a steel, water-resistant automatic watch $500 from one manufacturer, and $25,000...

It's 2022 and there's a new Speedmaster in town. For the brand's third entry into their flagship 321 series, we now have the first 1957-styled variant in the new Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold. It's made of Omega's own version of white gold, which is an alloy of 18k white gold with platinum, rhodium, and palladium C?and which, after a fair amount of office debate, we learned is pronounced kuh-NOH-puhs. Featuring a new bezel and dial execution, the 321 Canopus Gold doesn't so much re-invent the Moonwatch as it does elevate the Speedmaster to precious new heights meant only for well-heeled collectors.? Based on the enduring good look...

The Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva marches the visitor through 500 years of watchmaking history, so what did it matter if I was 12 minutes late? No matter what you do, dont be late in Switzerland, Id been warned by all and sundry, but here I was (long story) walking into the museum sweating and disheveled and full of apologies, earning a D in my brand-new major: Time Studies. My guide was an elegant and refined woman, trs Geneva, doing middle age in tones of tan and cream while I passed through the same stage of life in my trusty Trillbilly Workers Party T-shirt and slutty earrings. Her tasteful accessories included a small watch, and a cat pendant hanging...

Just yesterday, we launched a brand new video series called Watches in the Wild, hosted by our very own wild man, Cole Pennington. In the first of three episodes, we find Cole in Thailand unearthing and deciphering the complex mysteries of Seiko watch-collecting as only he can. To celebrate the launch, we are devoting our undivided attention to our scuba-diving, thrill-seeking, star-gazing man of the world. There are approximately five million reasons to put the spotlight on Mr. Pennington, and basically every story he's written is worth sharing, but I decided to make things extra difficult on myself and pick a mere handful of his best stories to share with you. ...

Twenty years ago, Richard Mille (the man) was virtually unknown outside the ranks of the French jewelry industry. Today, Richard Mille (the brand) is a global juggernaut of ultra-luxurious watchmaking C a company synonymous with success and excess.? Morgan Stanley estimates that the independent companys turnover puts it next in line behind the half-dozen brands that make up the Billion Dollar Club (Rolex, Patek, AP, Cartier, Omega, Longines ) and far ahead of such heritage heavyweights as Tissot, TAG Heuer, Breitling, and IWC. The RM 001 How it got to where it is so fast is one of watchmakings gr...

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