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To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. This Week's Vintage Watches Keeping it simple never hurt anyone at all. The world of vintage watches and watches, in general, have a tendency to get complicated, especially to draw attention. Have you ever seen a more needy and attention-seeking object than a perpetual calendar chronograph? And don't even get us started on those with split seconds C?what a "look at me," main character energy move. Disgusting, really. 1963 Rolex Datejust ...

It feels like only months ago that Bulgari unveiled the new record-holder for the world's thinnest watch. And that's because it was just a few months ago C in March, to be exact. That's when the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra clocked in at 1.80mm in thickness, making it the thinnest watch ever made. Well, there's a new champ in town, courtesy of a partnership between Richard Mille and Ferrari. The RM UP-01 Ferrari, announced today, is the new standard by which razor-thin watchmaking is measured. This new ultra-thin timepiece is a mere 1.75mm in thickness beating out Bulgari by a walloping 0.05mm. Unlike Bulgari (and past record-holder Piaget), RM has assembled the ...

You might have a G-Shock that you wear from time to time. It's probably simple. It's probably plastic. And it was probably cheap. The newly released GMW-B5000TVB is none of those things.? Fashioned from titanium, it's part of the Full Metal series, and even within the series, it sits near the top. This is an uber G-Shock, and Casio has positioned it as a watch for "high spec gaming and sci-fi style for the real world." To me, it looks like something straight out of Halo Infinite. Perhaps it's the watch super soldier Master Chief might wear off-duty.? The construction of the watch is ...

IWC launched a team watch at the Miami Grand Prix this past May. Everyone from mechanics to executives was issued the watch, and you can spot them on their wrists at the races. Every single person on the team wears one C except automotive tycoon Toto Wolff. He's been spotted wearing something different, but for a while, no one knew what it was. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Christoph Grainger-Herr (@chrisgraingerherr) And now we know. It's the Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition "Toto Wolff x Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team." For those who don't follow Formula 1, Toto Wolff is the team ...

To all our friends (and frenemies) out there in the horological universe, we say welcome once again to another episode of Hey, HODINKEE! where you ask us questions burning to be answered, and we try to quench those fires with the cooling waters of truth C or at least, the fire extinguisher of unverifiable opinion. This week, a viewer seeks an answer to the perennial question of whether or not an automatic watch winder invariably puts more wear on the watch than the watch would endure if you wore the watch. Another viewer wants to know why 10:10 seems to be the default for setting watch hands in watch photographs and advertisements (a question which, since we shot...

Lately, it seems that the offered length of power reserves has become a hot-button topic in watch-related discourse C but what do you need all those hours for? Are ~38 hours really not enough, especially in a casual or everyday sports watch? I never give total power reserve that much of a concern when it comes to divers and the like, but it's clear that the spec is of growing interest among watch enthusiasts.? I asked Jack and Danny to plug in their mics and help me talk over this novel need for more and more hours. And from early 8-day Cartiers to Hublots that boast 50 days of power reserve (and require a drill to wind), we dig into t...

Every week we bring you a selection of highlights from the HODINKEE Pre-Owned Collection. This week, we look at five classics that recently landed here at the 'Dink. As always, for more great pre-owned watches, visit the Shop. Chronomaster Sport El Primero Yoshida Limited Edition Zenith made this limited-edition Chronomaster Sport, featuring a case and bezel in solid 18-karat gold, exclusively for the Japanese retailer Yoshida C and there are just 15 of them. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the classic El Primero, except its chronograph seconds...

In the world of watches, there is no other brand like Casio. In one breath, this well-known Japanese manufacturer can turn out the defacto $15 digital watch, the hardest streetwear style companions found on any wrist in the world, and some of the most craft-forward and tech-laden watches ever made. From fitness trackers to radio atomic time calibration, tool dive watches, the CasioOak, the classic DW5600, and even some of the strangest complications you can imagine, Casio does a little bit of everything and they always deliver their trademark mix of fun and functional. This unique and beloved brand is also known...

A. Lange & Sohne watchmaker David Weber has been with the brand for almost 20 years. His father was a watchmaker, too. I briefly met him at Lange's Salon opening in San Francisco where he was giving movement assembly demonstrations as well as performing the impressive party trick that only Lange watchmakers can: as a client took the Lange off their wrist, Weber would look at the hand-engraved balance cock for a few minutes and tell them who engraved it in Glashutte. Watchmaker David Weber giving demonstrations at Lange's new San Francisco Salon. Weber grew up around watches and spends most of his workday fixing them (or tr...

Just around this time yesterday, I was landing back in New York after a 24-hour run to Geneva to do something I hadn't done in quite a while C hang out with a bunch of guys who love nothing more than Universal Genve. Yup C there was a modest gathering of some of the most passionate Universal collectors in the world in Switzerland on Tuesday. I was honored to be invited alongside some old friends and names you'd know well (Goldberger, Bernardini, E. Wind) and some others you might not, but you should (like him, him, and him). ?In all, there were about 30 of us, and the collection of watches was absolutely amazing. So, just like I did in November, I thought I'd bring my camera along and snap ...

We're back for another auction chinwag. This time we kept our picks (mostly) vintage, which makes sense when you consider who was part of this spirited debate. Tony Traina, vintage watch head and scholar; Rich Fordon, resident vintage specialist and client advisor (who will be attending the auctions to bid in person this weekend); and Malaika Crawford who is here for any sort of staff battle and partial to a little vintage design also.? We discuss this week's Geneva auctions at Christie's, Sotheby's, and Phillips, as well as Antiquorum for an informal chat about trends, some of our favorite lots, and Malaika throwing in a Richard Mille-shaped surprise to try and ...

Recently, I took a look at the redesign of the new Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde, a time-only watch from the brand's original collection that has been reinterpreted and was reissued at this year's Watches & Wonders. But it wasn't just the small seconds version of the watch that was launched at the trade show; the brand also brought a new split-second chronograph to keep the lineup complicated. Complicated early Toric models are still watches I'd consider underappreciated in the market, but even mid-generation chronographs have admittedly strong prices on the secondary market. I first started paying attention to tho...

The B/1 by Toledano & Chan is a striking piece of design, to say the least. Part 1970s sculptural design, part Brutalist architecture, it's a sort of dress-watch sport-watch hybrid that was constructed to exist outside of the current (and notably exuberant) independent watch symposium, given its singular style and very democratic $4,000 price tag. Artist, watch collector, and Talking Watches alum Phil Toledano is a bell-ringer for what he likes to call audacious '70s watch design. We've spoken on the subject at great length in the past. He considers Patek the clear victor of ingenuity from the decade that was lacking in design rules across the board. Toledano...

About a month before Watches & Wonders, a Vacheron Constantin team member told me something big would come from the Maison just ahead of the trade show. They also told me they thought I would be uniquely suited to cover the news, which to me meant only one thing: there was a pocket watch coming from Vacheron. For all the jokes from friends and colleagues, my passion for horology started with pocket watches, and I will forever be curious when a modern brand taps into that old style of watchmaking to do something interesting. But when I found out what Vacheron had in store, it wasn't just interesting, it was also historic. As it turns out, the watch was called the Berkley Grand Complicatio...

Hero image courtesy of Rich Fordon. After a drawn-out controversy, much of it playing out on social media, the Only Watch auction that had been scheduled for November 2023 was finally took place in Geneva today.?As we reported last month, during the delay the Only Watch organization completed a financial audit and revised its structure and governance. Meanwhile, 16 brands that had been slated to participate in this edition of Only Watch C?including Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Chopard, and Biver C?dropped out. Still, 47 pieces remained in the sale, headlined by the unique Patek Philippe 6301A Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater, Rexhep Rexhepi's Chronometre Antimagntique,...

This Mother's Day, Hodinkee Insurance wants to help you and your family protect not just your watches, but your jewelry, too. Whether you or a spouse own an engagement ring, a pearl necklace, or an heirloom that's been passed down from generation to generation, your fine jewelry is made to be worn and enjoyed, especially when celebrating important life moments. To keep your fine jewelry protected and looking its best, consider these five important tips: 1. Store It Properly When you're not wearing your jewelry, it should always be stored in a safe and secure place. Consider investing in a high-security sa...

Your Weekly Shop Brief If you're looking for a (reasonably affordable) do-it-all GMT diver before setting out on summer travel, the ever-popular Seiko Prospex SPB383 has made its way back into our digital storefront.?Last week, we announced the audaciously architectural B/1 by the design duo Toledano & Chan, which will be officially available this Thursday. Feel free to sign up for the waitlist to get your reminder.? For those gearing up for the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix F1 race, this TAG Heuer Monaco carries the spirit of the original Monaco that Steve McQueen wore in '71. On the opposite end of the style spectrum, this rose gold Pi...

When the spring Geneva auction season kicked off on Friday, it did so in an unusual fashion. Due to questions surrounding the financial reporting of the Only Watch charity auction, the auction itself was finally held five months after its originally scheduled date. Even more strange was that the website for Christie's C the house running the Only Watch auction C went offline and remains that way due to a cyberattack. Unable to resolve the issues caused by the attack over the weekend, the auction house has postponed its Geneva watch auction until 2 PM on Tuesday, May 14. The spring watch auction also now has a temporary homepage hosted on a free web provider, with access to the catalog and in...

Three words often befuddle the most curious of watch lovers: "price on request." The words are everywhere these days, with brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and others putting that phrase on webpages instead of the prices for many of the brand's biggest releases. Some brands, like AP, are happy to shed the fa?ade C I request the price, I get the price C while others hold them close to the vest. Often, I've had to go to clients with access to prices, but even that's not guaranteed to get a result. Patek Philippe is apparently over all of this coy nonsense. A few weeks ago, the brand started publishing the prices of their Grand...

Seiko makes a lot of dive watches C it's largely what they are known for. However, despite a range of models representing multiple philosophies, aesthetic eras, and price points, some hit much harder than others. Among the heavy hitters, we have the recently announced Prospex SPB451 and SPB453 C two mass-appeal takes on the brand's '60-inspired line of tool dive watches. Representing the second generation of a very popular line of watches established by the SPB143, these new Prospex divers offer a slight rethinking in the hopes of delivering a more well-rounded solution for a daily wear dive watch. With the looming threat of the ...

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