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I started working full-time for Hodinkee in August 2022. Before that I was doing quite a lot of freelance watch writing as Hodinkee's so-called Newbie, which entailed quite a lot of going to Switzerland, and also quite a lot of staying up late looking at watches on the internet, asking myself if putting a 1952 Rolex Bubbleback or a brand-new Grand Seiko on a credit card was "normal behavior," not to mention reading the Wikipedia entry on Hans Wilsdorf.? Over the course of this year, I would learn many things. I can't possibly detail all of them, but here are the 10 that stand out. 1. I learned what a tourbillon is.? Confession: As soo...

In this year's Hodinkee Holiday Gift Guides, we're featuring special guests with their top gift picks across a range of price points from our very own Hodinkee Shop and beyond. No matter who you're shopping for this season, we've got you covered. This Gift Guide features jewelry designer?Maggi Simpkins, who has run her bespoke engagement ring company since 2015. She recently designed a one-million-dollar?ring?for "Brilliant and Black?C?A Jewelry Renaissance," an exhibition at Sotheby's. Believe it or not, I actually hate shopping. Like hate it. I love gift-giving when I spot something that I think someone would like C but I hate being tasked with finding a gift a...

In this year's?Hodinkee Holiday Gift Guides, our editors round up their top gift picks across a range of price points, from all corners of the internet and our very own Hodinkee Shop. No matter who you're shopping for this season, we've got you covered. Whenever I'm gift shopping for someone, I usually don't get anything from their wishlist. That's so boring. Instead, I look for the gift that they didn't even know they needed and later learn to love. Sidenote: I only sometimes utilize this method when shopping for my wife because, well, wifey gets what wifey wants, but with others, I'm a little more brave. It usually results in a bewildered look on their face aft...

If you ask a watch collector to start naming different models from a brand, there are certain ones that will always be named first. Jaeger-LeCoultre will be Reverso, Rolex will be Submariner or GMT, and Cartier will be the Tank or Santos. There are always models that a watchmaker is associated with, but that doesn't necessarily make them the best watch for you. If you go down the lists of watches available from any company, somewhere buried within that list can be the perfect underappreciated model. A true aficionado may see these watches and start reciting spec sheets from memory, but even they would admit that these are not the first watches that come to mind when thinking about a company'...

Have you ever liked C or even loved C a watch but knew it was never going to work for your wrist? Maybe it's a guilty pleasure, maybe it's an outlier that belies your usual taste in watches, or maybe it's just a watch you prefer to admire on someone else's wrist. We've all been there, so I asked the editors at Hodinkee to pick a watch that they love, but wouldn't wear, and explain their reasoning. Call it therapy. Or the airing of grievances. Either way, no hard feelings.? Urwerk UR-100V [Mark Kauzlarich] I can sum up my thoughts with two simple sentences. I love Urwerk. I couldn't wear a watch that is so purple.The Urwerk UR-100 was rel...

First, the good news. After years of hand-wringing about the apparently imminent extinction of mechanical timepieces, which would surely be replaced by smartwatches and/or microchips in the backs of our skulls, good old analog watches continue to thrive. It's become nearly impossible to keep up with all the new brands and new watchmakers. The enthusiast clubs. The websites and podcasts and Instagram feeds. Not only is the world of watches itself more diverse and larger than ever, but the points of entry have become more accessible than ever before. The Rolex Daytona 116500LN But that growth has put...

Just before Thanksgiving, Omega surprised us with a pair of 60th-anniversary James Bond watches in the Diver 300m collection. One was a throwback of sorts to the very first Seamaster Professional Diver 300m (SMP) from the early 1990s. The other was something nobody saw coming, and a watch I can't quite get off my mind. I'm referring to the Canopus (white, in Omega speak) gold diver with a GoldenEye-themed diamond-encrusted bezel. It's a sports watch that is a more restrained but still decidedly luxe version of the Rainbow Daytona. It takes a form-factor I know and gives it an entirely new feel with the precious metal and the hypnotic diamond setting. ...

Worn & Wound has teamed up with Nivada Grenchen to release a limited-edition duo of chronographs. The first is the Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster Valjoux 72, a limited edition of just 20 pieces, priced at $6,900. The watch's color palette is inspired by an old racing dial in Nivada's archives,?but the real story here is the movement. The collab partners found 20 old stock Valjoux 72 chronograph calibers and serviced and restored them for this limited edition. Yep, Valjoux 72:?the old movement that powered so many of your favorite vintage chronographs, from the Rolex Daytona and Heuer Carrera down to lesser-known efforts from brands like Enicar, Gallet, and, of course, Ni...

Hero illustration by Andy Gottschalk. Italy's most renowned watchmaker (now very much Swiss) has a reputation for releasing supersized cases, which are then strapped to the bulging arms of action-movie stars. These watches are not just masculine. They're so brawny that they should come with a complimentary Gold's Gym membership and a bottle of creatine. So imagine my surprise when I encountered the Luminor Due Luna PAM1301, which announced itself in a very un-Panerai presentation. A diminutive 38mm case? A stainless steel bracelet? A freaking moonphase? If you are li...

Winter auction season is well underway here in New York City, and this time the buzz feels more evenly spread out than last year. The anticipation lies in the variety of offerings rather than a single rockstar lotC?and the focus on a wider landscape of watches is a welcome change for many. This weekend sees the opening chapter of a new initiative called TimeForArt, created by the New York non-profit Swiss Institute. A first of its kind, the auction was established as an aid to support contemporary art and will be held as part of the Phillips New York Watch Auction: SEVEN, this coming weekend, December 10 and 11. The Swiss Institute has called on 17 watch brands t...

Dear Hodinkee Readers, please allow me to introduce myself. I'm Lisa. I oversee visuals here at Hodinkee, and I spend hours upon hours upon hours of my time looking at photographs, reading about them, dissecting them, and collecting them. So when a reader named RightGuide dropped a comment in Nick Marino's 2022 Year In Review introduction post asking for a roundup next year of our favorite photos, the request landed on my desk. I rallied James Stacey, Mark Kauzlarich, Tiffany Wade, and a few other folks on the production team to begin the hunt of some of our favorite photos we published across the last 12 months between the site, magazine, and social.? ...

Traditionalists will tell you that a dress watch has to be a few things: a precious metal case, no complications (no running seconds, no date, no anything), all on a leather strap. I write this, all while wearing my Cartier Tank on a gator strap, if only to let you know C I'm one of you, in spirit at least. I love dress watches for a lot of reasons: their history, the smaller size, the relative value they often represent. However, this strict definition of a dress watch was developed to fit the conventions of a bygone era. Today, after all, that Tank of mine is paired with sweatpants. (It's true!) Over the past decade or so, dress wat...

In Watch of the Week, we invite Hodinkee staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's columnist is Chelsea Beeler, a New York-based Business Operations Manager at Hodinkee. By the time I started working at Hodinkee in 2018, my dad had been collecting watches for a few decades. At first, it was a passive pursuit: He acquired a Seiko bearing his college fraternity's crest and had inherited some very special Rolex pieces (the '70s and '80s sort, where no one really knew what they had at the time, but knew what they had was nice). I don't mean to diminish any watch (whether my dad's or otherwise), but it wasn't until the early 2000s that...

It was one of our favorite releases of 2022: The Tudor Black Bay Pro. At once completely surprising yet totally familiar, the newest model line under the Black Bay collection brought a local "flyer" GMT to a 39mm stainless steel case, all while taking inspiration from the vintage Rolex Explorer II 1655.?Sure, the Black Bay Pro has the specs you'd expect from modern Tudor: the MT5652 has 70 hours of power reserve, is automatically wound, COSC-certified, and offers local jumping GMT functionality. "Local jumping" simply means that when you travel to another time zone, you can jump the hour hand backward or forward without affecting the position of any of the other hands. So if you have both th...

If you would like to read rigorous writing about technical watchmaking or a Vacheron revival or Italian sleeper hits, allow me to point you here, here, and here. On the other hand, if you would like to hang out and watch a few minutes of watch content as light and ebullient as the golden bubbles in a glass of New Year's champagne, you have come to the right place. For this video, I hopped into the Hodinkee studio with style editor and all-around good-time gal Malaika Crawford to discuss the most notable pop culture watch moments of this year. We ran the gamut from celebrity spokespeople to auctions to, you guessed it, the Moonswa...

In?Watch of the Week, we invite Hodinkee staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's columnist is Merritt Palmer, an Atlanta-based Luxury Authenticator at Hodinkee, who is telling us about her Cartier Santos Galbe. I never really thought about watches growing up. After all, I'm a member of Gen Z C I've had a cell phone in my pocket since I was 12, and none of my family members are particularly horologically inclined. It wasn't until I was studying art history in college that I even discovered the existence of the niche world that is watch collecting. After spending countless hours surfing art auction ho...

I entered the watch media space the year after the Apple Watch was announced. My entire career C and my personal interest C?in mechanical watches has come at a time when industry lifers were afraid that Apple would descend like a Balrog to destroy everyone's passion and enthusiasm for the mechanical watch. We all know the headlines C?Apple Watch production and sales now surpass the entire Swiss watch industry. Apple Watch can save your life. Apple Watch does this, it does that C it's a phone, a GPS, an MP3 player. It's anything you want it to be and more. It's arguably the most important Apple product born in the post-Steve Jobs era. ...

I don't bother trying to predict what a watch brand might do in the future. Instead, I do my best to enjoy the releases as they come. Hindsight is 20/20, so I just let hindsight do its thing. It's that backwards-looking attitude C and a new release from Baltic C which has me revisiting the Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax limited edition chronograph release from earlier this year. This was a new kind of chrono for Baltic, focused squarely on auto-racing in the 1960s. Commenters lamented the limited nature of this release. If only Baltic released a regular production three-register chronograph! It would appear Baltic knew exactly wha...

Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the Hodinkee Shop? Email us at [email protected] with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned modern watch? Click here. This Week's Vintage Watches It's fair to say that all of us at Hodinkee HQ are in a full-blown holidaze this Wednesday. It's downright chilly in New York right now, and instead of running around Fifth Avenue or SoHo and knocking out our final bits of holiday shopping, we're head-down at the vintage desk trying to share the joy of mid-century tool and dress watches with all you knuckleheads.?And there's nowhere we'...

The year is almost over and it feels like it had only just begun. Look at how time flies. No really, look at it. Today we're watching the sweeping chronograph hand fly as we look at some of the industry's most remarkable and technical watches from the past year. Aside from a deadbeat second or seconde foudroyante, there's really no better complication to get a tactile sense for the passing of time, nor one that's more practical. MB&F LM Sequential EVO. Image: Courtesy MB&F What made 2022 more remarkable than most was the number of brands making noteworthy leaps of horological engineering, a...

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