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Best Super NEWS Watches
Three On Three: Comparing Independent Watches Under $15,000
Three on Three has returned. In our first head-to-head-to-head comparison, we took a look at three of what we deemed to be the very finest in-house, manually wound dress watches on the planet. Today we move into a broader category, but one that is very dear to our collective heart here at HODINKEE C independent watchmaking.But even more interesting than the folks who craft an amazing piece of original horology and then charge you for it, like a Laurent Ferrier, Philippe Dufour, or Kari Voutilainen, there is a group of independents out there that make fantastic products with unique twists and don't ask for a ton of money. Today we are looking at three truly independent watches, each for under...
Vacheron Constantin's Harmony line drew praise after revealing the thinnest self-winding split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph a month ago. Then it drew more praise with its mono-pusher doctor's chronograph, which employed similar technical innovation on a more reserved scale. All together, this collection of new calibers took seven years of research and development, and you can bet that a decent chunk of that went to coupling the improved chronograph with an improved tourbillon.Vacheron's new Tourbillon Chronograph utilizes the same 42 mm cushion-shaped case as the other pieces of the Harmony collection. From a design perspective, it is difficult to successfully evoke a 1920's motif in a 21...
An Open Letter To John Mayer, From IWC
There are always two sides to a story. When we published John Mayer's open letter to IWC, we knew the response would be huge C the overwhelming majority of readers agreed with his sentiments about what he has perceived to be a drastic change in direction for the legendary Swiss watchmaker. Well, the folks in Schaffhausen have heard his thoughts (and your comments) loud and clear, and today, we present their response in full. Dear Mr. Mayer, As you can imagine, we read your open letter to IWC on HODINKEE with considerable interest. We couldn't help but feel we owed you a reply and before saying anything else, we must thank you not only fo...
Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs
Welcome to the first in an ongoing series we're calling "Reference Points." ?In this series, we will be working backwards in a way, to tell all you lovers of horology about some important watches that we feel make up the foundation of modern wristwatches. ?We've tried to give you tidbits of historical knowledge in several of our articles over the years C in particular those from the "Historical Perspectives" category C but now we're going even further. ?For our first "Reference Points" feature, we're starting with what is arguably the most important pairing of complications there is C perpetual calendar chronographs by Patek Philippe. And we're taking you all the way back to the beginning. ...
A Week On The Wrist: The Richard Mille RM033 Extra Flat Automatic
The HODINKEE Team got its hands on the Richard Mille RM 033 C an uncommon, extra flat, time-only wristwatch thats been flying under the radar since its introduction in 2011. For one week, I had the good fortune and great pleasure of wearing it. Before sharing my impressions (bottom line up front: I loved the watch), first let me provide some background on how I discovered the Richard Mille brand and why I became a big fan. Introduction In 2002, I was leafing through a watch magazine when an unusual advertisement caught my attention. A Racing Machine on the Wrist was the headline. It was an ad for Richard Milles first watch, the RM 001...
This week's What's Selling Where includes watches sourced from upcoming sales at Auctionata and Watches of Knightsbridge, as well as the usual suspects: dealers, and the inimitable online marketplace known as eBay. Highlights include a Rolex modified to be a perpetual calendar by Franck Muller, a prized Universal Geneve "Big Eye" chronograph, and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 Limited Edition with no reserve. We hope you enjoy! Custom-Made Franck Muller (Or Not?) Rolex Perpetual Calendar The closest thing you can get to a perpetual calendar Rolex is this customized Datejust C a reference 16238 that...
The Urwerk UR-110 EastWood, A Bespoke Send Off To The Torpedo
The Urwerk UR-110 has amassed an impressive product family since its introduction in 2011, counting seven variations among its ranks, and a prestigious award for Best Design Watch from the GPHG. In order to send off the UR-110 in style, Urwerk founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner have created the EastWood, a tailored and polished take on the watchs high-tech satellite display architecture. To achieve this, theyve turned to London-based tailor Timothy Everest for the strap, and to fair-trade South African and Indonesian woods for the bezel. The result is a unique mixture of retro-futuristic style and bespoke craftsmanship. ...
In keeping with their trademark cinematic presentations of new products, today Apple confirmed more information about the device that has had the tech world in a tizzy: the Apple Watch. In addition to pricing for all variants of the device (including the $10,000 to $17,000 (!) solid gold Apple Watch Edition), the company finally revealed more information about the battery life and the nature of connectivity with the iPhone. “Since what you wear is a reflection of who you are, we created the Apple watch for a whole variety of people.”– C Tim Cook, CEO of Apple, Inc. Pricing Interestingly, of the a...
Patek Philippe does not make watches in titanium C or do they? Well, they kinda do, in super limited quantities, and when they do, the prices go insane. For example, during the 2013 Only Watch Charity, a 5004 in titanium sold for just under $4,000,000. That is not a typo. You can see our hands-on with that watch here.Then, last year, Sotheby's offered a collection of unique titanium watches, and while prices weren't as silly as what we saw with Only Watch, they were still strong. Just last night Patek auctioned off another unique titanium watch, this time an annual calendar reference 5396 for the charity Children Action. The auction took place last night, March 9th, 2015, in Geneva and after...
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavor Perpetual Calendar "Funky Blue"
H. Moser & Cie is responding to all the smartwatch hype with a new release of their own, the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar "Funky Blue." Dubbed the original smart watch, the Endeavor stands in stark contrast to digital gadgetry, while thriving on a similar set of ergonomics. Additionally, the Endeavor has taken a new approach to the perpetual calendar, stripping away any unnecessary elements to create a simple and unassuming take on the complication. For 2015, the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar watch welcomes a new sky-blue fum dial, hence the moniker "Funky Blue." The existing Endeavor Perpetual Calendar family features a ...
Talking Watches: With John Mayer
Well, you asked for it. You got it. Today we are proud to launch an entirely new HODINKEE original video series. We're calling it "Talking Watches," and these videos are just that: us, talking watches with our friends, new and old. Basically, we will use these monthly C yes, you'll get a new episode each month from here until eternity C videos to give you insight into the minds of watch collectors you might not come across in your daily life. Guys like John Mayer.?In this first video, I sit down with John to talk about how he got into watches, what his first great pieces were, and what's he's been wearing on his latest tour. ?Since John and I first connected a few years back, I've gotten to ...
Letters To The Editor: A Scholar's Thoughts On The Old Watch Repair Conundrum
One of the greatest issues facing the mechanical watch industry today is a simple one C how to keep those millions of timepieces running into the next generation. The Swiss invest millions into hiring people to makewatches, but seemingly very little into staff and resources dedicated to repairing them. With Swiss conglomerates offering parts to fewer independent watchmakers, it is more difficult than ever to have a simple problem fixed, and fixed inexpensively. The matter is so pressing that our own Benjamin Clymer brought it up while speaking to Bloomberg television last month. Recently, we received a letter from a reader outlining his own frustrations with getting a watch serviced in Londo...
The interplay between art and watches is a topic that is still relevant today, especially considering the growth of the re-sale market for both commodities. While particular models embody an artistic concept in form and function (like Greubel Forsey's Art Piece 1 and Anita Porchet's custom dials for Laurent Ferrier), an artist named James Perkins approaches the concept in a more literal fashion. For a recent exhibition at Ace Gallery, Perkins created a thought-provoking sculpture inspired by one of the most iconic watches in existence. The piece consists of 100 watches, but there is a caveat: 99 are fake and only one is the real deal.To better understand the methodology behind this work, we ...
The Ressence Type 3, Now With A Temperature Gauge For Internal Monitoring
In addition to not having hands, doing away with a crown, immersing its dial in a pool of oil and having magnetic fields transmit information from the movement to the time-keeping mechanisms, the Ressence Type 3 also won the 2013 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve for Best Horological Revelation. As we approach Baselworld 2015, Ressence yet again showcases its ability to innovate in distinct ways by adding to its jazzy dial yet another mechanical widget C a temperature gauge.The Type 3 is essentially structured as a sapphire-domed sandwich with a titanium core. The dial is domed and enclosed within a contoured sapphire crystal cover. This cover is filled with oil so the that the indications a...
Historical Perspectives: A Look At Baselworld 1946
With Baselworld 2015 about to begin, we thought it would be worthwhile to take a step back in time to Baselworld 1946 (though it wasn't even called Baselworld at that time C but you get the idea). Where did we get all these photos? eBay. Naturally. When we saw this series of photos of booths from the 1946 fair that was distributed to watch and clock retailers around the world listed on eBay, we knew we had to buy them to share with you. Some of the manufacturers you see here will be familiar to you, while others are more obscure and probably only familiar to expert vintage watch hunters.If I could go into a time machine and take the watches from one case, it would be the case shown in the to...
Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5524G Calatrava Pilot Travel Time
Bet you didn't see this coming. And neither did we. You are looking at the Patek Philippe 5524G, or Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Announced just now, the day before BaselWorld 2015, this watch paints an interesting picture about where Patek Philippe is headed as a brand. It is clear that younger consumers would be the focus for a while now, starting with the 5164A Travel Time Aquanaut, followed up by 2014's 5960A, or Patek's benchmark high-end consumer watch in stainless steel with a decidedly casual vibe, at a very approachable price point (by Patek's standards). The 5524G goes well, well beyond either one of those to create what is clearly a pilot's watch of some kind. ...
Bring a Loupe: From Pateks At Christie's Dubai To More Accessible eBay Finds
Today's What's Selling Where brings you a veritable feast of watches from high-end Pateks at the upcoming Christies Dubai March 19 sale (catalog here and PDF catalog here) to more value-oriented options on eBay. We hope that there is something for everyone in the mix. Patek Philippe Reference 5104P This 43 mm reference 5104P has a platinum and 18k pink-gold case with pink-gold slider and dates to 2009. It is certainly not a common reference in that this is one of less than six to have come up at auction since the watch was introduced in 2006. It is a notable reference in that it is automatic, semi-sk...
Diving With The Tudor Black Bay (Blue) In St. Maarten
I had low expectations for St. Maarten. Other than the YouTube-worthy 747 landings at Princess Juliana Airport and some clothing optional beaches, I hadnt heard a lot about this French/Dutch island in the Lesser Antilles. And the diving? Skip it and go to Saba is all Id been told. Still, I packed along my dive gear and the new blue Tudor Heritage Black Bay and settled in for a week underwater, come what may. Six days later, I had a pretty good idea of the diving in St. Maarten and the Tudor, and I found both to be superb. Over the course of the week, we focused on a handful of dive sites on the islands southwest corner...
Photo Report: Inside The Patek Philippe Museum
I won't mince words here. The Patek Philippe Museum houses the most impressive collection of timepieces in the world, to me. I'm not saying there aren't other incredible museums with incredibly important timepieces in them. I'm just talking about my own personal preferences here, and to me, a lover of 20th-century Patek Philippe timepieces, the museum is as good as it gets. The Patek museum is a separate entity from Patek Philippe, SA, and it has its own staff, its own curator, its own goals C the first of which being to acquire, research, and display not only the most important Patek Philippe watches in history, but also all watches in general. The multi-story building in downtown Geneva di...
Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands C Finally!
Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch C where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but ...