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Daniel Roth, which has been owned by Bulgari since 2000, will begin to operate as an standalone brand with the involvement of Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps, including its leading watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The revived Daniel Roth plans to reveal its first watch in the second half of 2023.? With the new independent structure, Daniel Roth says it'll focus on "capturing the mechanical ingenuity and contemporary classicism" of watchmaker Daniel Roth's earliest watches under his own mark. It'll produce watches in very limited quantities Cjust a few hundred watches a year C and plans to launch with a 20-piece subscription series later...

Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Fran?aise with a few upgrades and a very slick (minus the questionable CGI) Guy Ritchie-directed commercial starring Hollywood actor Rami Malek and French movie legend/mythological beauty Catherine Deneuve. And that just about sums up where the Fran?aise sits in the modern Cartier catalog. It's a piece of relatively affordable, contemporary, unisex Cartier design that's become part of the fashion and pop culture watch dialogue. It may not be a standout model when it comes to the historical Cartier canon, but the Tank Fran?aise has its own kind of historical context C not to mention a personal context for yours truly. ...

One of our favorite things to do in this hobby is to categorize things. We create artificial rules for what constitutes a dress watch, or a pilot's watch, or a dive watch, or well you get the point. How each timepiece speaks its shibboleth to get into the correct tribe is usually based on some archaic historical reasoning, rarely having an ISO standard that is continuously updated and in writing (as is the case with dive watches). So where do we put the watch that is too thick or busy to be a dress watch, doesn't have the timing ability of a dive watch, or doesn't trace its lineage back to the Battle of Britain?The simple answer is that we call it a daily watch, or an everyday watch. It ...

Call me a reluctant believer but I think I carry the mark of "The Beast". No, I'm not talking about the Book of Revelation, in fact, things were pretty normal when I finally got to lay my hands on Audemars Piguet's newest Royal Oak Offshore in full black ceramic. But the watch, a faithful callback to the first Offshore nicknamed "The Beast" due to its size and weight, is still pretty imposing, especially for someone like me who has never loved the Offshore. So it might as well be the End of Days (Offshore/Schwarzenegger pun intended) but with the new "Black Beast" I think AP has won me over. Sorry to all the commenters offen...

Straight off the slopes and right to the chalet, Hodinkee joined in on some Aprs-ski fun at Range Rover House Park City for an alpine-inspired celebration of the Range Rover lifestyle. With the snowy Wasatch Mountain range set as an idyllic backdrop, Range Rover North America revealed the ultra-exclusive 2023 Range Rover Sport Deer Valley Edition last Tuesday evening at a special ceremony in front of an intimate crowd.? Designed to appeal to the most dedicated Alpine Winter lifestyle enthusiasts, the Deer Valley Edition's production is limited to just 20 units and has been influenced by the beauty of the iconic high-altitude loc...

Welcome to our new weekend column. Think of this as a catch-up session for latecomers who were too 'busy living their lives' to consume every tiny morsel of watch content all week, and an extra helping for the true friends who just can't get enough. "New Watch Alert" will feature new watch releases from the week past, "In Case You Missed It" a collection of our favorites that deserve a second look, "Culture of Time" will highlight an interesting article from outside the Hodinkee universe, and "The Conversation" is where we respond to your comments. Grab your Saturday-morning coffee, and let's dig in. This week was packed full of exciting news from the watch...

In March of 2019, Eric Wind lectured at HSNY on the topic of collecting vintage watches. This lecture proved to be extremely popular with both the in-person and online (YouTube) audiences. On March 6, 2023, Wind will return to HSNY to follow up on the topic of collecting vintage watches. Wind will cover trends he has been seeing in the watch market during the last three years and present ideas to help advance the future of watch collecting. About Eric Wind Eric Wind founded and owns Wind Vintage, a company he started in 2017 that is dedic...

Last week Richard Mille launched the RM 07-04 Automatic Sport, its first-ever women's sports watch. The brand partnered with six athletes (Aurora Straus, Margot Laffite, Nelly Korda, Nafi Thiam, Yuliya Levchenko, and Ester Ledeck) on the development of the piece and the result is an Easter basket of highly technical RM watches. This group of women includes two motorsport icons, the world's number two golfer, two track and field stars, and a Winter Olympics ski and snowboard triple gold medalist. Each of them gets their own color variant of the RM 07-04 - which is the result of a collaborative design process between each athlete and the RM design team.? ...

As far as a watch that does not have any stones on it, or is not time-only, or is not gold, let's just say that Bulgari's Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, with black dial and strap, is among my very favorites. Recently I borrowed one. I feel so lucky to wear this watch that I will have to book a marching band and mourners to come to the post office when I send it back. Looking down at this watch, you see so many shapes. There's a round bezel over an octagonal frame. Then the case itself is octagonal, but sort of built into a square platform. So it sits on the wrist as a square, but it is not a square watch. It's an octagonal watc...

You're either a huge Autodromo fan, or it's the coolest watch brand you've never heard of. If you're in the latter category, allow me to introduce you to one of its latest creations: The Group C C and then go learn more about Autodromo (here, or maybe here). For fans and newbies alike, the Group C will strike you as something of a surprising watch by way of its retro digital aesthetic, which brings shades of our old Timex watches and Marty McFly. There's a real Delorean component to this offering, which actually isn't so off the mark for what the Group C is meant to represent. Autodromo is all about the cross-section of horology ...

Perhaps no brand has a history with as varied and rich designs as Cartier. From the rigidly right-angled Tank to the crooked Crash, there are more shapes in the Cartier back catalog than there are types of pasta noodles. This steadfast focus on design is why we love Cartier. Since 2017, Cartier has taken to reissuing some of its classic designs as part of the Cartier Prive collection: From the Cloche to the Tank Chinoise, well-known and, well, less-well-known watches have been reissued as modern limited editions. It's similar to what Cartier did from 1998 through 2008 with its CPCP (Collection Prive Cartier Paris), when it re-focused on its classics. Then...

After spending years criss-crossing the world with our watches, we're aware that most watch-specific storage solutions simply don't come close to providing the optimal level of care and protection. It's something we've strived to address with our own lines of cases, pouches, and rolls C but sometimes you want something special, which is when you need to bring in the best in travel cases, an area that Globe-Trotter has over a century of experience perfecting.Last year we teamed up with Globe-Trotter to produce a limited edition 10-Watch Attach case that quickly sold out, proving that those who have an appreciation for the craftsmanship that goes into their timepieces want the same level of c...

After spending years criss-crossing the world with our watches, we're aware that most watch-specific storage solutions simply don't come close to providing the optimal level of care and protection. It's something we've strived to address with our own lines of cases, pouches, and rolls C but sometimes you want something special, which is when you need to bring in the best in travel cases, an area that Globe-Trotter has over a century of experience perfecting.Last year we teamed up with Globe-Trotter to produce a limited edition 10-Watch Attach case that quickly sold out, proving that those who have an appreciation for the craftsmanship that goes into their timepieces want the same level of c...

Giancarlo Rosselli loves to bring together people who share common interests. For example, watches. Oris watches. But not just watches or Oris watches. Also soccer, specifically the venerable club team AC Milan. "It's just what I love to do," Rosselli says. "I think there's nothing better than getting lots of people from all different walks of life and cultures together so they can discuss common hobbies and interests." On the day I spoke to him he was taking some time away from all that for a little one-on-one time with his wife, Mireille. The two of them spoke to me from a hotel room in Rome where they were spending their 10-year anniversary. The internet...

Imagine you run a Swiss watch and jewelry manufacturer in the 1990s. You've powered through the '80s, and finally, there's light at the end of the tunnel: Green shoots of a rebirth in fine mechanical watchmaking. Independent watchmakers are popping up everywhere, from Franck Muller to Daniel Roth. Even historic manufacturers like Patek and Audemars Piguet are investing in complications and classic watchmaking. You realize the only way forward is to become a true manufacturer, producing your own movements in-house. This is, more or less, the situation Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, found himself in during the '90s. ...

This article is the fourth in a new series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by HSNY's librarian, Miranda Marraccini. Find the first article here, the second here, and the third here. The Horological Society of New York's (HSNY) oldest books (see image 1) were published in the 17th centuryCa century in which Galileo and Shakespeare died, Newton discovered the law of gravity, and tulip mania raged in the Netherlands. Image 1 We have several books from this period housed behind glass in the rare books section of our Jost Brgi Research Library in Midtown. In looking at the images below, you might be thi...

Last year was a busy one for the folks at Louis Vuitton. There was the new Spin Time Air Quantum, a limited edition Tambour chronograph, a very LV smartwatch, and a new watch prize. Never a brand to rest on its haute-horology laurels, the good folks at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton are going even bigger and bolder this year with the new Tambour Opera Automata. Building off of the mechanical innovation and high-end craftsmanship of 2021's bonkers and beautiful Tambour Carpe Diem the Opera Automata turns from the land of the dead to the world of Chinese Opera for inspiration. The Carpe Diem, which won the "Audacity Prize" at G...

Have you ever thought about what time it is on the Moon? Me neither, but according to a recent AP story, the European Space Agency (ESA) is working with an international cast of space organizations to explore the need for the Moon to have its own time zone. The collected group believes that research is essential for establishing a standard for lunar timekeeping, rather than having missions run within the timezone of the leading country and ensuring the safety and efficiency of lunar missions.? The Omega X-33 Marstimer displays both the time here on Earth, and the time on Mars (which has a day that is nearly 40 minutes longer than ours on Earth). Read mo...

It used to be unusual to see more than black or white on a watch, and those that tried C like Rolex with the Stella dials or beach series Daytona C were not among the more successful watches when released. Breitling did have some good-looking yellows throughout the '90s and Doxa has always relied on its orange dials, but these were the outliers. Things started to change from the outside in, first with bezels that were available in oranges and reds, and then eventually all the colors of the rainbow.The color floodgates opened up in 2020 when Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual in a range of new bright colors that were an immediate hit. Since then, Patek Philippe added some color when it was d...

The basic premise of a sport watch is pretty simple: It tells the time, you can wear it anywhere, and it shouldn't be too expensive, relatively speaking, of course. The Chopard Alpine Eagle delivers on all these. Offered in two sizes C?36mm and 41mm C?there's a fit for pretty much any wrist. Chopard uses a different COSC-certified movement for each version: the caliber 09.01-C (36mm) or 01.01-C (41mm), which means each nicely fills up the sapphire caseback. As with most watches in the sport watch genre, the bracelet is a defining feature of the Alpine Eagle. It doesn't disappoint, a unique three-link construction, with the links secured together with a single scr...

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