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Best Super NEWS Watches
The New TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Hodinkee Review
We've just finished another hot lap around the sun, and TAG Heuer has spun up another reimagination of a beloved classic with the new "Glassbox" Carrera, this time in a "Dato" variant with a teal green circular brushed dial. While we at Hodinkee might have a soft spot for a certain other Dato, this is another step forward for TAG Heuer as the brand brings the "Glassbox" treatment to every old standard of the brand's heritage C and it's done to good effect. Instead of following the brand's full history and starting with the ill-fated "date-at-12" debacle, which was loathed because the chronograph hand covered up ...
The Fits, Flash (And Watches) Of Pitti Uomo 2024
Pitti Uomo, the bi-annual Florentine fashion week and trade show, is something I look forward to season after season for its steady stream of stylish attendees. And this year was no exception as the show, in many ways, marked a return to form. The full-nine-yard approach to suiting was back C yes, ties and all C much to the delight of one of my favorite subjects, Kenji Kaga (the man behind Florentine tie company Tie-Your-Tie). Vintage has always had a place in pieces in any fashion week, but this season marked more attendees in genre and decade-defying head-to-toe vintage, with watches to match. As it pertains to watches, there was a sharp turn to the formal, int...
Picking Eight Of The Most Collectible Nomos
When we talk about collecting watches, it's easy to focus on the blue-chip pieces, and the Patek 1518s and 2499s of the world keep going up in value. The 3448s hold pretty steady. A Rolex "Red Sub" seems (at least to me) inexplicably high in price but a fine enough way to check a certain box. Lange, Audemars, Vacheron C you can find many interesting ways to develop a collection in all of these brands C but all of them have a pretty high barrier for entry when it comes to price. So, what's left for the rest of us? What if you wanted to build a special collection without it representing your retirement nest egg?? They say half the fun (sometimes more than half) is ...
Hublot Is Back With A Bright Green (Big) Bang
The most recent metamorphosis of Hublot's Big Bang Unico comes in a shade of green that took me an entire afternoon to put my finger on. Hublot is calling it emerald green. I'm not convinced. I Googled "green Pantone color chart" at least eight times and I still couldn't match it. I spent even more trying to come up with relevant Hublot-isms and finally landed on a color descriptor: Astroturf Green, because "Hublot loves football." Which feels like a cheap shot, but it's the best I could do, without consulting Werner's Nomenclature of Color, which just felt pretentious. This hulk-ish / astroturf-ish / emerald-ish green is made of SAXE...
Predictions for Cartier in 2024
I've mentioned before that I'm likely the world's worst prognosticator. And yet, here I am again C even volunteering this time C to tackle the question of what Cartier has in store for us in 2024. Cartier might be the most challenging brand to predict because their horological strengths aren't restricted solely to traditional watchmaking. As a grand jewelry Maison, I've seen some of the most incredible gem-setting on everything from Jean Cocteau's sword for his induction into the Acadmie Fran?aise to "Tutti Fruitti" wristwatches that harken back to the days of cocktail watches (and they should bring those back, by the way). This complicates things for me, an ave...
If Bulgari is making one thing crystal clear across its lineup at LVMH Watch Week, it's that gold C 18k yellow gold to be precise C is so in for 2024. While the luxury brand has embraced the precious metal across its jewelry and timepieces since its own Art Deco era, the introduction of the material into its ultra-thin, ultra-sophisticated Octo Finissimo family came a bit delayed, with the first Yellow Gold Octo Finissimo debuting in 2023 in the form of a 50 piece limited edition. Now, Bulgari introduces its second yellow gold Octo Finissimo, pairing it with a deep blue sunray-finished lacquered dial. Additionally, the previously...
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillion Weight Energy System Titanium Slug
I have to admit something: A current guilty pleasure of mine is early Hublot MDM Geneve watches. When Carlo Crocco's new brand burst onto the Swiss watchmaking scene in 1980, it did something a little crazy, combining gold cases with integrated rubber straps and quartz movements. All this is in a slim, elegant, 36mm watch that resembled a hublot (porthole in French). That original ethos is carried forward, kind of, in the modern Classic Fusion lineup.?Hublot's MP (Masterpiece) collection is the polar opposite of this, and today Hublot has introduced the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium. It's a mouthful of a name for a mouthful of a watch.? ...
The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting Washington, D.C. on March 16 and 17, 2024, with host Tiny Jewel Box. Then, on April 6 and 7, 2024, HSNY returns to Chicago with host Oak & Oscar. Finally, on April 20, 2024, HSNY returns to London, UK, with Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo.At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the in...
Now this is the kind of release I can get behind. This is the Zenith Chronomaster Triple Calendar, featuring a new complete calendar caliber. On its face, the watch already grabs my attention: It's a good-looking, balanced design. It's 38mm. It's a triple calendar moonphase chronograph. Maybe three years ago, I never would've believed these are three things I'd say about a new release.But that's only the beginning of the story: The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar actually pays homage to a rare prototype El Primero from 1970, only 25 of which were produced as a proof of concept. Zenith has done an excellent job dragging its heritage into its modern lineup, and this is one of its better ...
Is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Being Discontinued?
It's a question I've been mulling for the past year: What's going to happen to the Royal Oak Concept? Last year, when Audemars Piguet released the mind-bending Code 11.59 "Universelle" C with its 17 complications C it was a massive moment for the brand. Not only did the watch solidify (or rather remind the world of) Audemars Piguet's standing as one of the most interesting experts in complications, but it also brought the "Research and Development" label to Code 11.59. It was a milestone for a collection that was pretty widely panned by the Internet at the time of its launch (though the Code was slowly picking up fans). But this time, the Code had not only grown ...
I imagine a lot of people are going to be surprised at this one, but Baltic just announced one of their most avant-garde releases. Introducing the new Baltic Prismic, a watch that leans heavily on a bold dial design in four colors, in a mixed stainless steel and titanium case and option of leather strap or mesh bracelet. This is most certainly one of Baltic's most surprising designs and I expect it to be pretty divisive, but there's a lot going on here at an affordable price. As I mentioned, the watch has a five-part case with brushed and polished lugs, bezel, and (display) case back edge, all made in stainless steel. The rest of...
Green Hues Or Gem-Set Gold Expand The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Lineup
With LVMH Watch Week kicking off the start of 2024's new watch season, Zenith has marked the occasion with a handful of new releases, including two brand-new models for the brand's Chronomaster Sport range of high-beat chronographs. The modern Chronomaster Sport line was originally launched early in 2021, and the core of the lineup has been based on steel 41mm chronographs with either black or white dials. We've seen expansion into precious metals, two-tone, and a handful of boutique editions over the past couple of years, but today's announcement adds the option of a green-toned model in steel and a rose gold model with a meteor...
The '80s Icon Bulgari Bulgari Returns
Some watches have become so entrenched in the cultural fabric that they stand as icons. I'm thinking about the Speedmasters and the Submariners of the world. There are, however, others that deserve the right to claim icon status C though in a slightly different way. The Bulgari Bulgari is one such watch C a model inextricably tied to its 1970s roots and a very specific kind of Italian heritage. The original Bulgari Bulgari was launched the same year as Star Wars in 1977 though without the 20th Century Fox fanfare. Like Star Wars, it relied on the classics and translated them into a product perfectly suited to the times. ...
Your Weekly Shop Brief As LVMH Watch Week kicks off today, we have added a ton of recently released models to the Hodinkee Shop, which can either be purchased today or are up with a "coming soon" status. New drops include a fabulous re-release of the very 80s BULGARI BULGARI (my personal favorite, grab one while you still can), several new TAG Heuer pieces including the new Iconic Dato, and the relaunch of the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, among others. Browse the full lineup here.? On the pre-owned side of the Shop,?this Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 was recently added to our digital storefront. If you have Valentine's Day on yo...
The Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph C Now in 34mm
Great news for those of us who prefer our dive watches on the smaller side as TAG Heuer has just taken the wraps off the latest expression of the brand's solar-powered "Solargraph" and for 2024, they have dropped the size from 40mm to 34mm. That's right, following the launch of the 40mm Aquaracer 200 Solargraph range in 2022 and 2023's follow-up of a deeply appealing 40mm titanium model, TAG Heuer has used LVMH Watch Week to announce a mid-sized Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph that comes in five versions, all of which use steel cases and matching bracelets. Measuring 34mm wide, 9.7mm thick, and ...
An Interview With AnOrdain Founder Lewis Heath
"I'm aware of us being seen as a dial maker rather than a watchmaker," says Lewis Heath, founder of AnOrdain, the Scottish watchmaker, "but I think what's different and special about us is not just the enameling per se, but our approach to craft and to watchmaking." It's been a busy few years for AnOrdain, the small Scottish watchmaking outfit, so I caught up with Heath in late 2023 to chat all things AnOrdain. Since Heath founded AnOrdain in 2015, its watches, highlighted by gorgeous enamel dials crafted in-house, have quickly gained popularity. AnOrdain's Heath is one of my favorite guys in the industry. Self-deprecating in that Bri...
Straight from the mind of the master of blacked-out watches, Bremont has released a new collaboration with Bamford they call the Aurora. A new version of the S502 Supermarine "Jet," the watch takes the black stainless steel overbuilt and super water resistant case and tweaks it with a bold pop of neon green color and a California sandwich dial. We got to go hands-on with a pre-production unit so there may be minor tweaks to the final product, but this is what we've got. At its base, the watch is the same 43mm by 16.5mm (super) thick case with a screw-down crown at two o'clock with a sloping crown...
11 MoonSwatch Mission To Moonshine Gold Models To Be Sold At Sotheby's
Just when we thought we were out, they pulled us back in. Last we checked, in December, the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold had seen its final act C a lunar curtain call. The year 2024 came, and in turn gave us a new Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty, and just last week, Swatch teased on Instagram what appears to be an announcement for an upcoming Silver Snoopy MoonSwatch. Moonshine Gold was a 2023 thing. Or it was until this most recent Moonshiney announcement. Next month, 11 complete suitcases of Mission to Moonshine MoonSwatches will be auctioned off at Sotheby's, with 100% of the proceeds benefiting Orbis C a charity dedicated to blindness prevention with w...
List of Patek Philippe Discontinued Models in 2024
February 1st of each year is "runout" day for Patek Philippe, the day that Patek has historically shared with its authorized dealers both its price increases for 2024 and which watches its discontinuing (or have "run out of"). But for a lot of Patek lovers (or aspiring lovers), February 1 can be a day their hopes and dreams are crushed, depending on which models suddenly disappear from the website. The announcement may feel like it comes early this year because Watches & Wonders is essentially a month later than last year, meaning there's a longer time before the brand fills in its catalog again, but it's in line with the pa...
Introducing The Piaget Polo79, A Revival Of The Original Polo
The Piaget Polo is back. Not the modern Polo that Piaget introduced in 2016 as its version of a contemporary sports watch, but the original, sports-chic Polo first released in 1979, which went on to become the quintessential 1980s watch. This is the Piaget Polo 79, an update of the original Polo. It's a 38mm brick of yellow gold with a bracelet seamlessly integrated into the case. The Polo's signature aesthetic is maintained across the case, bracelet, and dial: polished gold gadroons (those horizontal lines) interrupting brushed gold surfaces. The Polo 79 is exactly the type of heritage-inspired release we've been asking for from...