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When we introduced Studio Underd0g's first collection of chronographs in 2022, we loved how they made watches fun. The young U.K. brand is back with its second release, the Field Collection, bringing that same fun to the field watch. While it takes the World War II-era Dirty Dozen watches as inspiration, the quartet of new watches meets the brief in a playful way that only an underdog could. The Studio Underd0g Field Watch Collection uses a stainless steel case measuring 37mm (46mm lug-to-lug) with 18mm lug width. The upstart U.K. brand says it took the British Ministry of Defense's specs for the production of the Dirty Dozen beg...

Whether I am speaking from the "longtime Hodinkee fan" side of my brain, or the Hodinkee Editor side, it's honestly insane to believe we have been producing episodes of Talking Watches for 10 years. An entire decade, where we've managed to put out 80 episodes (with more on the way, don't you worry). But episode number 80 is particularly special. We teased that something big was coming for the past week or so. I believe we said it was our biggest episode of Talking Watches yet C and you know what? That wasn't hyperbole. On Thursday night, on the west side of New York City, we premiered our latest installment in the series to a packed audience in a movie theater co...

Over on Patek.com, it is described as "the very essence of the round wristwatch" going on to claim "it charms each new generation of watch lovers by its timeless understated perfection." Many overtrodden statements are used to praise it, not only those made by Patek Philippe themselves. It is among the most archetypal watches ever made. It is the Calatrava. Nearly every watch brand in the 20th century produced a round, time-only wristwatch with simple hands and markers. Only one brand can claim to have made a Calatrava. Officially, Patek did not claim the Calatrava name until 1985, yet the reference that we now consider the first, the reference 96, was introduced...

TAG Heuer has enlisted a cohort of collaborators for its latest limited-edition Carrera. This is the Rowing Blazers x Bamford TAG Heuer Carrera, a colorful take on the Carrera inspired by vintage Heuer Yacht-Timers.? The collaboration takes vintage Heuer Yacht-Timers worn during regattas in the '60s and '70s as inspiration and adapts them to the modern Carrera's 42mm case. The result is a bright TAG Heuer Carrera that seems like it'd fit right in at the local sailing club. It's a natural fit for Rowing Blazers, the brand that's changing the way people think about prep.? ...

It's auction week in Geneva and you know what that means C party! Just kidding. But if you are in Geneva for all the festivities, be sure to join our very own Arthur Touchot Friday, May 13th, at 6 p.m. for a panel discussion with two horological legends: Jean-Claude Biver and Aurel Bacs. Mr. Biver is currently the CEO of Tag Heuer and Hublot and is an avid watch collector in his own right (see his Talking Watches episode here). Mr. Bacs is currently the head of Phillips with Bacs & Russo and has headlined iconic sales such as the Daytona Sale at Christie's and the Glamorous Day-Date Sale at Phillips last year. ...

Long before Aurel Bacs picked up his gavel, we knew this auction would be EPIC. After all, Phillips had spelled it out for us in the auctions title. Epic, because of the content of the sale. Epic also, because of the auctions gamble on brands that are less well known to the public. Eterna, Cyma, and Junevia are not names you would expect to hear during the Geneva auctions. Nevertheless, there they were, next to the big boys, the Paul Newmans of the world and other incredibly rare stainless-steel Patek Philippe watches. How would the collecting community react to these newcomers? Well, incredibly enthusiastically, according to the results of the sale. All 88 pieces were sold, for a rare 100...

We've been looking lately at ultra thin mechanical watchmaking; let's take a look, now, at one of the thinnest wristwatches in the world of any kind. The big release from Citizen this year is a very unusual one: an Eco-Drive (solar-powered quartz) wristwatch with a 1-mm-thick movement, in a case less than 3 mm thick. Making a watch this thin that works reliably and is reasonably durable takes not only cutting edge movement design, but also very careful case design. The current record holder for world's thinnest mechanical watch is, of course, the Piaget 900P, at 3.65 mm. The construction of the 900P is what's behind its dra...

Just reported to us via Davidoff Brothers on Instagram, an Urban Jrgensen pocket watch just hammered this morning at Antiquorum Geneva for CHF 620,000 C an astonishing 12.4 times the the high catalogue estimate of CHF 50,000. The winning bid was made by telephone. The watch, lot no. 84, was made by Urban Jrgensen in Copenhagen in 1812; it is a pump-winding watch with fuse and chain, Harrison's maintaining power, Arnold's chronometer detent escapement, and a cut compensation balance.The auction is still in progress as of this writing with some major pocket watch lots upcoming, and we'll be interested to see if this result w...

Well that was intense! "The Geneva Watch Auction: Three" promised something special. Four hours of bidding, 137 lots, and 16.4 CHF later C roughly the same result as the Epic 88 Stainless Steel Chronographs auction C it delivered, with a trio of Patek Phillipe watches breaking the million dollar mark, a record-setting GMT-Master, and some interesting subplots, including the sale of Mr. Jean-Claude Biver's personal "King Biver."The first sign this would be another memorable sale from Aurel Bacs came as early as the second lot of the evening. Number 102, a Rolex Explorer Super Precision 5500 fitted with an Air King case (33 mm instead of the standard 36 mm Explorer case) sold for CHF 28,750 C ...

As you may know, we have been closely following the auctions in Geneva over the past few days. There were records broken and sleeper hits, but you may not have heard that four Heuers hammered for a combined $461,333: a yellow-gold Carrera reference 1158; a PVD-coated Autavia 11063V; a Monaco Dark Lord 74033N; and an Autavia 2446. Full details below, including thoughts from noted Heuer specialist Jeff Stein. A Yellow Gold Heuer Carrera Reference 1158, Presented by Jack Heuer To Ronnie Peterson (Lot 161, Sotheby's) Image Courtesy of Sotheby's The result of this watch should come as no surprise. Sel...

Amidst a sea of Rolex Daytonas, it is refreshing to see another type of watch sell for more than CHF 2,000,000. Today at Christie's in Geneva, this Breguet et Fils self-winding, quarter repeating watch with the equation of time, day, month, and power reserve sold for a whopping CHF 3,245,000 (including buyer's premium), making this the second most expensive Breguet ever sold at auction. Originally acquired by Charles-Louis Havas in 1817, this gorgeous watch has found a new home at a private Swiss museum. For more information on this piece, click here. For your...

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This is some pretty big news for Panerai: a new family of watches, the Luminor Due, has just been announced concurrently with the opening of the "Dive Into Time" exhibition of Panerai timepieces spanning the brand's entire history, in Florence, Italy. ?The new family of watches represents a substantial slimming of the traditionally rather thick Luminor case, and has been designed to keep the technical features of Luminor (including the use of in-house calibers) while making an alternative, and additional, Luminor design available. Notably, the collection represents the creation by Panerai of a more design-centric collection C at 3 bar/30 meter water resistance these are not Luminor watches w...

Up until now, weve focused on the heavy hitters and record breakers at Geneva Auction Week because, with all due respect, the dizzying numbers they fetched are newsworthy. However, just as impressive were the very shrewd acquisitions of a few historically important and rare watches that just might be considered bargains C including pieces from IWC, Audemars Piguet, Zenith, Longines, and Universal Geneve. Audemars Piguet Reference 25643BA, From Christies Estimate: $10,300 to $15,450; sold for $14,124What we learned this weekend is that you can either spend $15,000 on the worlds most affordable Swis...

Celebrity watch spotting is one of our favorite past times C whether they are featured on Talking Watches or spotted in the wild, we love to know what the "beautiful people" are wearing. Today we bring you the latest in celebrity watch gossip with Omega ambassador George Clooney's newest movie, Money Monster. If you haven't heard of this movie, it is directed by Jodie Foster and stars Clooney and Julia Roberts. I won't give it all away but the plot it has something to do with money, a television host, and an angry investor. But what I did notice was the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional (we promise it's real) sported b...

Ralph Lauren is the king of American luxury retail. He has mastered the world of classic style in fashion and continues to create beautiful and wearable things. It is no different with the brand's timepieces. Ralph has been producing watches since 2008 and has produced iconic collections, such as the Stirrup, Automotive, and 867 Collection. And now, Ralph Lauren has released the RL888 Collection, the first round watch designed exclusively for women. Named for the women's flagship store located at 888 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, the watches in the RL888 Collection feature a slim, round case, and are available in either rose g...

In this week's Bring A Loupe, we start with two great classics: an oversized Patek Calatrava and a blue Rolex GMT-Master. Next, we've got a handful of chronographs from Doxa, Eterna, and Enicar. We also go back to the watch scandal of the week, looking at a Heuer Autavia that did really well at auctions despite some potential reasons for concern. This is your Bring A Loupe for May 20, 2016. A Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 With Blueberry Bezel The bezel insert is the symbol of the GMT-Master, with the infinite variety of shades it can develop during aging driving the infatuation for those vintage wat...

Just like his father, and his fathers father, Laurent Ferrier is a watchmaker. In 2010, he ensured his familys position in the industry by setting up his own manufacture, which makes around 120 watches per annum, all of which are engraved with the patronymic name. Today, collectors from all over the world seek timepieces with the word "Ferrier" on the dial. But they remain notoriously difficult to collect. In London, only one address has them. Exclusivity was granted to William & Son in 2012, and the Mayfair-based retailer has become a destination for Laurent Ferrier enthusiasts. For their ...

Last night we hosted a private collectors' dinner with our friends from Parmigiani Fleurier. The dinner, held at Saxon + Parole, was to honor founder Michel Parmigiani's tour of the U.S. and to showcase some of their watches. Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that prides itself on innovation, craftsmanship, and quality. Constantly working to make new and interesting complications with the highest quality of finishing, Mr. Parmigiani discussed how he draws inspiration from his time at the Sandoz Foundation as a restorer. Mr. Parmigiani spoke of how he worked on fixing the Breguet Sympathique clock and the Shooting Pistol and its ...

For centuries, the physical and spiritual center of Florence has been the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, better known simply as the Duomo. Centuries in the building, the Duomo is the result of the work of an incredible number of hands and minds, and contains treasures, and represents history, of incalculable value. ?Today we'll look at just one of its many remarkable features: the clock that stands over the main entrance to the cathedral. The Duomo (the word means "cathedral" and of course in Florence, it's always understood to refer to the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore) has an extremely long history. ?Though construction...

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