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This is an unexpected but very impressive announcement from a truly iconic brand in the fashion world C Chanel C and they unveiled a brand new, men's dedicated wristwatch called the Monsieur. Oh, and it's damn impressive. It's a jumping hour, retrograde with three-day power reserve, a great profile and stunning view from the back. Let's get into the Monsieur de Chanel now. The Monsieur de Chanel is the mark's first men's complication, and it's made entirely in-house. The Monsieur de Chanel is Chanel's first dedicated men's watch and certainly first with complication, and what makes that even more important is that it was desig...

This year Zenith has released a whole new group of new watches, including the new El Primero 36,000 VPH Classic Cars chronograph with newly finished dial. The brand is making a point to keep their prices conservative and this piece is no different, at just under $7,000. The Zenith EL Primero 36,000 VPH was originally released at Baselworld 2013. The watch was a huge hit and continues to be one of their most popular models. The original 42 mm stainless-steel chrono featured the traditional tri-color dial with El Primero automatic caliber 400 B movement. This year's release features the same case with the same movement but tot...

If we had to pick one trend that seems to most characterize Baselworld 2016, it'd probably be the pursuit of better value for consumers C or at least, the attempt to create for consumers the impression that watches can offer better value, relative to the competition. One of the most notable manifestations of this direction was the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar C a full perpetual calendar, developed and made in-house, by Frederique Constant, which will cost under CHF 10,000 at launch. In fact, the starting price is just CHF 8,350. As hard as it may be to believe, this is a full perpetual calendar, automatic, made in-house. Fr...

The latest Tudor Black Bay, in bronze, is the first Black Bay to have Tudor's in-house movement; it's also a (slightly) larger version of the Black Bay, at 43 mm as opposed to 41 for other models. Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin (brass, incidentally, is a copper alloy as well, but of copper and zinc) and Tudor's added aluminum to the mix as well in order to control the amount of patina that forms, and the rate at which it was formed. (I asked Tudor if I might ask what the percentage of aluminum was, and the reply was "you can ask" lest we forget that Tudor is a Rolex company.) The first visual impression I had of the Bla...

This year, Patek put the focus on higher end complications, not the least of which is the perpetual calendar. We have an entirely new reference in the 5327, which is very much the same in the grand scheme of things, thought very much different in the world of Patek Philippe. The watch replaces the 5140, though the 5140 will remain in production in a black tuxedo dial and a new grey dial, both in platinum for a limited time. The 5327's story is all about the case and dial, and in some way offers a lot of what modern Patek buyers might want C a larger case and Breguet dial. The 5327 shares a similar case design to the Calatrava 5227. ...

Update: Today's news does also include an Apple Watch software update. According to Apple, once iOS 9.3 is installed on your iPhone, you can install watchOS 2.2 on your Apple Watch. This update includes support for pairing multiple watches to one phone, improvements to Maps, and new language support, as well as other improvements and bug fixes. Today in Cupertino, Apple CEO Tim Cook announced a few updates to the Apple Watch, including a variety of new straps, and, perhaps most interestingly, a drop in the starting price for the Apple Watch Sport. The announcement did not include a new device, which is widely speculated to be in the pipeline for later this year. ...

Im not sure the HMX "Black Badger" is a watch that needed to exist, and that could be exactly why MB&F and James Thompson decided it should. It's wonderfully mad, just like its creators. And it has the power to turn grown men into 10-year-old boys, blissfully unaware they are playing with a $50,000 object. Minutes after the new HMX was unveiled, we knocked our chairs back and hurriedly got on all fours and under the table to check out the luminescent capabilities of the watch. And we werent disappointed. Weve known about James Thompson for a few y...

This year was my very first Baselworld, and it was incredible. Despite being jet-lagged and hungry most of the time, the rush of running around and seeing all the new releases was really invigorating. We met with numerous brands from Rolex to Ressence and everything in between, all with very different offerings. Here are my top five favorite watches from Baselworld 2016. 1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona In Black As much of a predictable clich as this choice may seem, this watch was truly awesome to behold in person. Literally everyone at Baselworld (okay, maybe not everyone, but the entire HODINKEE team) ...

Patek Philippe's biggest announcement at Baselworld 2016 was a new world time chronograph: the reference 5930. We had a chance to spend some time with it in the hand, and on the wrist, and we've formulated some first impressions of this new flagship complicated watch from one of the world's most famous, and most intensely scrutinized, luxury watch companies. We've already talked a bit about the history of the movement in the new reference 5930, so we'll just recap briefly: the base caliber is the self-winding chronograph caliber CH 28-520, which was first used by Patek Philippe in the annual calendar chronograph 5960P (P for plat...

I often think about what type of watch I would wear if limited to only modern watches, and only independently-held manufactures (isn't that how we all spend our nights?). A watch I saw at Baselworld 2016 may have answered the question, or at least put a new one in the running.H. Moser continues to produce excellent and innovative timepieces for collectors that do not, necessarily, get the recognition they deserve. The landmark piece from Moser is certainly the Endeavour perpetual calendar, which we reviewed here, but they've long been experimenting with making the already simple perpetual calendar ever more simple with the concept watches seen here. The Concept Perpetual calendar removes all...

We all know who the heavy hitters were this year. So lets start by getting them out of the way. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in stainless steel, the Seiko Spring Drive 8 Days, anything Tudor, and the Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon are, as you know by now, on our most wanted list. Needless to say these were also my favorites. But in an effort to keep things interesting for you, and because honestly other watches impressed me too, here are seven watches that deserve some attention. 1. The Zenith El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars Leave it to Zenith to come up with the coolest chronograph of t...

In the middle of what is easily the most hectic and important week in the watch world, we decided to get together with an old friend C Facebook's Matt Jacobson (as seen in this January 2015 episode of Talking Watches) to talk about how one his products, Instagram, is changing the game for the watch world. We invited all of our friends from the watch world to come out for a conversation with HODINKEE Founder Ben Clymer and Jacobson on the future of digital and horology, and because we knew we'd see some great people and great watches, we took some pictures. Have a look at some of the watches that showed up at the HODINKEE x Instagram Baselworld 2016 event. ...

This week, vintage watches are back in full force. In this Bring A Loupe you will find some heavy hitters, starting with a coveted Rolex "Pre-Daytona" with a black dial. Also expect to see an outstanding Heuer Skipper, an original Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, and an unusual Type 20 from an unexpected source. Finally, a great Universal Geneve Tri-Compax just came back on eBay, but maybe not for the better. This is your Bring A Loupe for March 25, 2016. A Rolex 'Pre-Daytona' Reference 6238 With Coveted Black Dial The reference 6238 is often considered as the starting point of the Daytona line, as...

While the great Gerald Genta is best known for his work in the wristwatch space C designing not only Audemars Piguet's landmark model C the Royal Oak C but also Patek Philippe's Nautilus, and IWC's Ingenieur SL and more, Genta himself longed for a much larger career in product design. At times, he battled his own own success in watches C a success that many would dream of C when he struck out to build a name in other verticals. And today, we've found two examples of such an an item C Japanese-made, Genta-designed eyeglasses, both brand new with boxes and papers, for sale. These Japanese-made, Genta-designed frames feature much of the same design languag...

You don't meet people like Phil Toledano often. In fact, I can't say I've ever met someone quite like Phil Toledano, ever. By name, you might think he's a working-class guy from Jersey. He's not. Born in London to a French-Moroccan mother and American father C an artist himself C Toledano is a conceptual artist of some note. His razor sharp wit and jovial sentiment C that type that produces one-liners by the minute C has made Toledano something of a cult hero in the art world. He'll say things like, "Im English, so Im not frightened by death, or the shame of a large urine spot on my trousers," one minute C ever the light spot in any conversation C while simultaneously creating haunting, an...

Accuracy: its pursuit is the reason watchmaking exists at all, and yet, it's easier to get an argument about date windows started than a discussion about accuracy. Take away watches as everything else that they are C expressions of personal taste or style; collectible rarities; objects of decorative ornamentation; amusing pieces of mechanical ingenuity C and what you have is a machine designed to keep time accurately. What accuracy actually is, however, is not as straightforward as you might think, and with atomic-clock accurate time available just about everywhere, it's useful C if mechanical horology is something that interests you C to look at this single most essential, yet surprisingly ...

The Heritage Pilot Caf Racer is the latest entry in Zeniths famed collection of pilot watches, and on paper its a great addition with its own spin on the genre. But is the connection between 1960s caf racing culture and high-flying timekeeping instruments a little too far fetched? And does it matter if it is? The new Caf Racer has all the redeeming qualities of a classic pilots watch, i.e. a lot of oversized features, from its case and Arabic numerals to its onion crown and faceted hands. But this particular pilot's watch is inspired by a wingless machine, ridden not flown, on long ribbons of concrete.The Caf Racer was...

If you have ever visited London as a tourist, chances are you stopped by the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, to stand over the Prime Meridian with one foot in each hemisphere. The Royal Observatory is also home to a wonderful museum containing John Harrison's marine chronometers, as well as many other fascinating and important horological artifacts. For the April 4th meeting of the Horological Society of New York, the Royal Observatory's Curator of Horology, Rory McEvoy, will lecture. The Time Ball at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich. As Mr. McEvoy explains, "This illustrated talk will take a look at the extraordinary story of J...

It was perhaps the biggest news of 2015, in more ways than one. Vacheron Constantin showed us a watch that redefined complicated watchmaking: the pocket watch known as the Reference 57260, the most complicated watch of any kind ever made. That sort of statement usually comes with some qualifications, of course C what is and is not a complication, and how they should be counted, is a matter of spirited, ongoing, and often incomprehensible debate. But what's not open to debate is the sheer scope and inventiveness of reference 57260. It was a breathtaking accomplishment, in other words, and of course, many of us wondered when, if ever, any of its complications might find their way into a wristw...

The trend in men's style over the last few hundred years has been towards less and less complexity, but every once in a while, one still gets an invitation that says, "black tie." There's a tendency to think of the black tie dress code as something rigidly fixed, but despite that, there's still room for sometimes very varying ideas on what, exactly, is or is not okay for a gent to don at a black tie event C and one of the subjects we've seen HODINKEE readers wax right wrathful over, is whether or not you should or should not wear a watch. Let's get into this delightfully contentious subject and see whether or not, whether pro or stridently con, you're on the right side of history and custom....

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