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It's no secret that the world of watches has experienced more than its fair share of turmoil recently. The major luxury groups continue to struggle to turn around the decline in watch sales in recent years, and watch enthusiasts sometimes wonder whether or not the people in charge of making new watches are so worried about balance sheets that it's distracting them from watchmaking. Many enthusiasts take refuge in (or increasingly these days, start out in) vintage watch collecting; this has many charms, but also many caveats, including hidden service costs, fragility, and the vintage market's nerve wracking habit of sometimes validating doubtful provenance with such high auction prices no one...

Last Tuesday night, we were joined by over 100 collectors and enthusiasts at The Hall at Union Fare in New York City for an evening of watches, cocktails, and a few very intense games of Jenga. Of course, Baume & Mercier also brought the entire line-up of Clifton Club watches, as well as selections from a number of other collections for guest to try on (and Instagram, obviously). Special guests Sacha Prost, a lifestyle entrepreneur and son of Formula 1 legend Alain Prost, and Justin Pugh, offensive guard for the New York Giants also stopped by to mingle with guests and check out some watches. We hope to see you at another HODINKEE event sometime soon. For now...

Today in New York, at the Sotheby's "Space Exploration" auction of outer space exploration memorabilia, there was a remarkable result for a very unremarkable looking object. The "Apollo 11 Contingency Lunar Sample Return Bag" is exactly what the name says: a bag used to hold samples of minerals from the lunar surface, and which was intended to protect them from any sort of contamination C biological or chemical C before the bag could be opened under controlled conditions for analysis at NASA's labs. The bag was used during Apollo 11's surface mission, by Neil Armstrong, to bring back some of the first lunar mineral samples. As it...

The selection for this week is pretty eclectic, but no less impressive, if I do say so myself. We start with what we could call the king of diving watches: the Rolex Submariner, with a reference 5513 in a rare silver-print configuration. We also have an early Omega Speedmaster 105.003 "Ed White," a highly desirable reference which is even more coveted with the "tropical" dial you see here. After these tool watches, we had to feature the absolutely exquisite?Vacheron Constantin Prestige de la France, and a golden Baume & Mercier Baumatic with a micro-rotor automatic caliber.?This is your Bring A Loupe for July 21, 2017. Omega Speedmaster 105.003 'Ed White,...

Welcome back to Friday Live! It's just about halfway through the year, and today Jack and Cara are going to take a look back at some of their favorite watches so far from 2017. Needless to say, there have been an absolutely huge number of new watches released in the first half of the year, which is when the vast majority of new releases are announced (they tend to ship to retailers in the second half of the year) and not only will Jack and Cara share their favorites with us, they'll also talk about whether there are any particular trends that have emerged in what's shaping up to be another turbulent 365 days for the watch industry. We'll also be presenting a spir...

The wheels in your watch deserve a closer look. Are they stamped or cut? What tooth profile is used? Are the pivots burnished or polished? A wheel may seem like a simple part but the manufacturing techniques for a wheel are deceptively complex, which leads to attention being focused on more obvious parts in a movement. So, if you want to learn what goes into wheel making, where should you go? It just so happens that one of the top independent watchmakers in the world has a series of instructional videos detailing many aspects of wheel making. Let's take a look at Roger Smith's YouTube channel?for some serious horological knowledge. Wh...

Richard Mille has just released two new additions to their collection, the RM 67-02 Sprint and the RM 67-02 High Jump. Both are based on the 67-01 Extra Flat, which was released back in 2016. Lately, Richard Mille has been creating a host of timepieces inspired by sports stars, most famously Rafael Nadal. This time around, the pieces were created in honor of Wayde van Niekerk with the Sprint in yellow and green, and Mutaz Essa Barshim with the High Jump in magenta and white. Both van Niekerk and Barshim are Olympic athletes for track and the high jump respectively. While the RM 67-02 is similar to the RM 67-01 in some respects, there are a few updates. ...

When the?news broke a few weeks ago that IWC would be releasing the Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII 'Tribute to Mark XI,' there were two main responses: excitement that this mainstay would be getting a more heritage-inspired treatment, and skepticism over the current faux-vintage trend writ large. I'll admit that while I'm a firm believer that new ideas can and should be as exciting as old ones, I was really looking forward to getting to spend some time with this watch in the metal. Luckily, I didn't have to wait very long. On the wrist, the Tribute to Mark XI doesn't look overtly faux-vintage. I'll admit right off the bat that I'm a...

Oris has added a new dive watch to its existing Aquis collection, the Aquis Small Second Date. Oris has been producing great and affordable dive watches since way back when, in 1965 (the company was founded in 1904). This year at Baselworld we saw releases like the vintage-inspired Oris Big Crown 1917,?and?the Chronoris, and now we have an updated version of the Aquis diver with small seconds. So what is new about this watch? Let's find out.? The Oris Aquis Small Second Date with black dial and rubber strap is also available with a stainless steel bracelet. The Small Second Date has the same brushed stainless steel case, excep...

The chronograph and the diver's watch don't generally have much in common, but the one element they do indisputably have in common is the function of measuring elapsed time. Each has advantages and disadvantages when it comes to performing this essential service and of course, each approaches the problem in different ways. Though the chronograph is often the first and only complication we think of when measuring elapsed time, it's of course also true that this is in some respects, the defining feature of a dive watch. Today we'll look at the pros and cons of both, in terms of every-day utility in the measurement of elapsed time in real life situations. The Chrono...

There may be no more misunderstood type of timepiece than the dive watch, which is strange because it is arguably also the most popular kind. Dive watches are loved for their ruggedness, their sporty good looks, and their perceived ability to make almost anyone wearing one a little more like Dirk Pitt or James Bond. Much of this perception comes from the images and hyperbolic copy we see in watch company marketing, that depicts a stubbled, black-clad diver emerging from the sea wearing his 2,000-meter oversized watch. But the realities of dive watches are often much different from those many of us have come to believe. And the less dives watches are used for their original purpose, the more ...

This week's Bring A Loupe has its fair share of chronographs, and more. We're featuring a very special Heuer Carrera "Dato 45," bearing the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Logo on its dial. There is also a non-vintage Breguet Type XX: the reference 3800BA in gold, which comes full set here. We round out our selection with a 1970s Breitling TransOcean, and a fantastic Mido Robot. This is your Bring A Loupe for July 28, 2017. Breguet Type XX In Yellow Gold The Breguet Type XX is often overlooked when considering notable modern chronographs, despite its strong historical roots and flyback complication. The Type ...

This week we're doing things a little bit differently. No surprise guests, no in-depth interviews, no breaking news. Instead, we're going back to basics with the core HODINKEE editorial team answering questions from you, our loyal readers and viewers. We've got Ben, Jack, Cara, and Stephen all around the table this week, and they're going to kick things off by answering a few of the most-asked questions that we've seen in the comments on previous Friday Live episodes. We can't get to every question every week, but this is a nice way to get to those great ones that have been passed over. But, of course, we'll also be taking questions live today. Leave them in the ...

The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) is the USA's national organization for watch and clock making professionals. Founded in 1960, the AWCI is the nation's first unified horological organization. Every year since 1960, the AWCI has held a national convention, bringing the nation's watch and clock making industry together for one week. This year the convention will be held in Tampa, Florida, October 4-7, and John Reardon, the head of the Christie's watch department, will deliver the keynote address. AWCI's 2015 National Convention Reardon joins an illustrious group of past AWCI speakers that includes George Dan...

The?Patravi ScubaTec Manta Trust is the latest version of Carl F. Bucherer's popular ScubaTec, which irrespective of variation all have in common a 500m water resistance rating and a helium release valve, as well as all the other features required in a professional diving watch (including of course a one-way rotating bezel with ceramic insert, something that's become more or less de?rigueur in modern, professional-level diver's watches). The Manta Trust is being produced as a limited edition of 188 pieces, and it's being made in partnership with, and to benefit, the Manta Trust, which is a non-profit conservation organization based in the Maldives and the UK, and whose mission is to study an...

This is the third year in a row that the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation has held its annual gala in St. Tropez. The highlight of the event is a fundraising auction to benefit the foundation, which was held on July 26. The Foundation exists to raise awareness of the dangers of climate change and to help protect endangered wildlife. The fundraising auction typically features a combination of very high end experiences, access to events, luxury goods and objets d'art. Items up for auction this year included a large assortment of artworks donated for the event. In all, over $30 million was raised. Presentation of the Astronomia Sky at the Leonardo DiCaprio Fou...

Watch enthusiasts (and watch brands too) often liken the ticking of a watch to the beating of a mechanical heart. Last May, we first heard of Paul Forrest Co., a new jewelry brand founded by Paul Forrest Hartzband, which uses mechanical watch movements made in Fleurier to power animated jewelry. The use of clockwork mechanisms to power animated figures and automata isn't something new of course, but we haven't seen anything quite like this from a jewelry maker in modern production, and certainly not anything with a mechanical movement of this quality. To understand what Paul Forrest Co. is shooting for, you really need to see the pieces in motion. Check out this video, which shows the "beati...

Can a $2,000 plastic watch with a quartz movement ever be a Value Proposition? The answer seems obvious, until you consider the Breitling Colt Skyracer. Yes, there's plastic; yes, it's quartz, yet it turns these apparent drawbacks into assets, starting with the amazing lightness of the case material. This is what strikes you at first: the substantial 45mm case weighs only 34 grams, easily half of what you would expect. And the Chronomtre mention on the dial tells you another part of the story; the quartz caliber is a pretty special one. Breitlight is the cryptic name of the case material; not much can be found about it, but Breitling emphasizes that it is almost...

Despite my eager and bleary-eyed attendance at both SIHH and Baselworld this past year, the release of the Halios Seaforth has nevertheless become a highlight of my 2017 horological calendar. Halios, a darling of the now-maturing internet micro-brand dive watch scene, launched the Seaforth this past July in a mix-n-match format, offering multiple dials and bezel options to maximize appeal for the widest possible audience. From black dials and black sapphire bezel inserts to pastel blue dials and fixed sterile bezels, the handful of options makes for a wide range of possible Seaforth expressions. For the purposes of this review, Ill be focusing on this lovely pastel blue Seaforth and its ste...

It's something to which most New Yorkers don't give a second glance (or a second thought). On the south side of Union Square, in downtown Manhattan, there is a rather enigmatic C well, at first it's hard to tell what it is. Above the mundane storefronts of a Best Buy and a Duane Reade, there is a strange-looking display of numbers flickering down at you. Tourists stop to look at it and take pictures, but there's nothing on the fa?ade of One Union Square South to explain what you're looking at, and residents are too busy rushing from one place to another to spare an upward glance to the display C part of an unusual art installation that incorporates a very enigmatic clock, and includes a sphe...

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