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Last week, Angelo Bonati said arrivederci to Panerai after 21 years with the firm, 18 of them as the CEO.?Bonati was head of sales of Cartier in Italy in 1997 when Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert selected him as Panerai's first sales director. Rupert's Vend?me Luxury Group (now called the Richemont Group) had just acquired the watch and instruments division of Officine Panerai, the small, obscure Florence-based watchmaker and former supplier of timing instruments to the Italian Navy. Panerai's flagship boutique in Florence, Italy (the original home of the brand). Bonati was the first Panerai employee of the Vend?me/Richemont ...

The HydroConquest is Longines's contemporary dive watch offering, and while it's nothing revolutionary, it is solidly built and affordable. Prices start at around $1,275, and for that you get a 300-meter water resistant case, a sapphire crystal with multiple layers of antireflective coating, the obligatory ISO 6425 compliant unidirectional rotating bezel, and a very nice double folding clasp bracelet with diver's extension. There's been a general update to HydroConquest this year (accompanied by a slight price bump). This fresh-from-Baselworld limited edition is the U.S. market only version of the refresh. Initial Thoughts ...

I'm not entirely sure why there wasn't more of a hullabaloo about this movement C maybe it's because it wasn't shown during editorial meetings, but rather, placed outside Citizen's booth, where it was easy to miss if you happened to be just walking by, or rushing from one appointment to the next. However, it's easily one of the most remarkable developments of the show and certainly, one of the top technical watchmaking stories of the year: Citizen has developed a light-powered, Eco-Drive movement accurate to just 1 second per year. The movement is cased in a pocket watch, but Citizen says that this not-for-sale prototype is a ha...

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! Classes will be held in Silicon Valley, California, over the weekend of May 5-6, hosted by Stephen Silver Jewelry. And the very next weekend, May 12-13, HSNY heads to Dallas, Texas, for classes hosted by Timeless Luxury Watches. At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick. The hands-on classes are taught by HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the indivi...

On March 20, two days before the Baselworld fair opened, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) issued Swiss watch export sales data for February. The numbers were excellent overall; for some markets, ridiculously so.? Watch exports to Hong Kong, Switzerland's top market, were up 36% in value versus 2017. The long-suffering U.S. market (#2) was up 26%, the biggest monthly jump in six years, according to the FH. China (#3) was up 22%. Moving down the top 30 list, #11 South Korea was up 30%, #12 Qatar up 126%, #17 Turkey up 93%, #24 India up 83%. Clearly, 2018 was off to a roaring start for the Swiss. For the first two months o...

Traditional watchmaking has seen astonishing growth in the last 20 years, but at the same time the industry is facing many external and internal challenges. At the May 2018 meeting of the Horological Society of New York, William Massena will address these challenges and more. In addition, Massena will discuss the role of independent watchmakers alongside large luxury groups in shaping the future of horology, and novelties from specific brands presented at the SIHH in Geneva and BaselWorld which give us clues about where the industry is headed. About William Massena William Massena William Massena is th...

This watch is definitely not the usual sort of thing you'd see coming out of Switzerland and Germany C and that's for good reason. The "Birdie" Surf Watch is a collaboration between two Los Angeles brands, the Weiss Watch Company and Birdwell Beach Britches, a surf wear brand that's been based in Southern California since 1961. The base is Weiss's 42mm field watch, which has a steel case and utilizes a hand-wound movement that's assembled in Los Angeles too. However, the usual dial and hands have been amped up with Birdwell's mascot Birdie. He stands in the center of the dial, with his two hands pointing to the hours and minutes, while off to the side is a sub-dial that uses a spinning wave ...

Alright, spoiler alert: I love this watch. When I settled down at the dramatically lit conference table somewhere deep inside Omega's booth at Baselworld a few weeks ago, I wasn't expecting to see this. However, once it was out, I had a hard time focusing on anything else. This version of the Seamaster Olympic Games is a reasonably sized watch, executed in a totally superlative way that is at once classic in its looks and extremely modern in its technology. It basically ticks all the boxes. The platinum case mixes brushed and polished finishes to create definition. Before I get too deep into this particular model, it's importa...

Apparently Spring has sprung C?despite this somewhat dismal weather C and we thought it would be fun to kick off the season with a meet-up at Todd Snyder's New York City flagship store on Madison Square Park. There will be great vintage watches and tons of accessories for you to peruse, and plenty of Scotch for you to sip on. The event will take place on Tuesday, April 17, from 6:00 PM to 9:00 PM.?Please RSVP to [email protected] if you are interested in attending. We hope to see you there! What: Watches & Scotches with HODINKEE and Todd SnyderWhere: Todd Snyder Madison Park, 25 E 26th St, New York City 10010When: Tuesda...

Vacheron Constantin has been flexing much of its creative muscle in its Overseas collection lately, and we've seen not only a revamp of the entire Overseas design in general, but also the introduction of client-friendly elements such as the quick-change bracelet/strap system that rolled out at SIHH 2016, as well as the introduction of a new series of movements (the 5xxx series). The Overseas Chronograph has been available in several solid-color versions (white, blue, and brown) and there is also a rather fetching stainless steel model with a pink gold bezel that has a very pleasant, 222 throwback vibe, if you like that sort of thing. However, the monotone dial treatments do make the Overseas...

The name Keegan Allen might not ring a bell to many in our audience, but mention it to anyone under the age of 21, and be be prepared for a full-fledged meltdown. Keegan is an actor, and a well-known one at that C his hit show Pretty Little Liars ran for seven seasons, and was a runaway success. The series finale, for example, saw more than four million social media reactions, and over 1.4 million viewers. Keegan's personal instagram account itself has over six million followers.?The young actor could easily be just another face in the crowd, but speak to him once and you know he's just different. He's artistic and sensitive, thoughtful and pensive, spiritual and emotional. He's a poet, and ...

Before the doors had even opened on the first day of Baselworld 2018, we got word that Patek Philippe would be adding a new model to the existing collection of ref. 5270 perpetual calendar chronographs: a 5270P with a salmon dial. Ben told you all about the watch as soon as we had the details and even gave some context for the particular dial tint. But at the time, we hadn't yet seen the watch in the metal, so with that in mind and with a few weeks of perspective, I thought I'd share some additional thoughts on one of the most-talked-about watches of this year's show. As far as the basics are concerned, this is still the 5270 we'...

The Longines Master Collection launched in 2005, and it's essentially the modern counterpart to the company's very successful Heritage Collection: a wide range of traditionally styled (but not vintage inspired, except incidentally) watches with a variety of complications. Complications in the Master Collection thus far have included automatic chronographs, power reserve displays, complete calendar chronographs with moonphase, and even a watch with a double retrograde date and second time zone display, with retrograde small seconds, day/night display, and moonphase, believe it or not. The new annual calendar is a first for Longines, and it's also an extremely affordable foray from the company...

The word "iconic" might be the most overused adjective in watches. And following closely behind it in the hackneyed department is the story that begins something like, "Iconic is an overused word, but so-and-so's vaunted such-and-such is a true icon that stands up to naysayers and deserves the title." I've definitely written that before (sorry), but I'm going to spare you the tedium today. The Cartier Santos is one hell of a watch and its design integrity, build quality, and thoughtfulness speak for themselves. No "iconic" required. When I first saw that Cartier would be relaunching the Santos collection at SIHH 2018, I'll admit I wasn't out-of-my-mind excited. T...

The Reverso has, over the decades, lent itself to a number of decorative techniques, and has been an especially useful canvas for the production of enamel miniatures. These new limited editions are an homage to the well-known Swiss artist, Ferdinand Hodler (on the 100th anniversary of his death, in 1918) who rose from a fairly miserable, hardscrabble start in life C his father, a carpenter, died along with two of Hodler's siblings, of tuberculosis, when Hodler was only eightC to become one of Switzerland's most respected artists. Hodler produced a very wide range of works, but he's perhaps best known in his homeland for his landscapes, three of which provided the inspiration for the enamel m...

To indulge in a feeble joke, making watches based on instruments that were used by belligerents in a major war is always going to be something of a minefield. War is something everyone deplores (well, mostly everyone) and yet not only do we seem to keep getting into them, we also celebrate many aspects of war; it brings out both the very best and the very worst in human nature. Watches and clocks are as essential to the waging of war as they are to making peacetime a well-regulated and profitable enterprise, and participate in the dual character of military conflict. Such instruments, made for war, make it much easier for us to do each other in efficiently, which is rather ghastly, but as is...

If you have been following along with the Showtime show Billions, you may have noticed quite the watch reference in last night's episode. Now in its third season, the series focuses on the lives of hedge funder Bobby Axelrod (Damian Lewis) and U.S. Attorney Chuck Rhoades Jr. (Paul Giamatti), mortal enemies whose lives are very intertwined. Both are morally corrupt, in opposing industries, and can't seem to get away from one another. It makes for great TV, but even if you're not a fan, I suggest scanning Episode 4, "Hell of a Ride," for a very special watch spotting.?At one point in the episode, Taylor, the Axe Capital CIO, walks into the Wempe Fifth Avenue boutique asking for a particular wa...

The two major watch shows of the year C SIHH and Baselworld C are now both firmly behind us, which means that we know most of the new watches that are going to be making their ways into boutique cases and onto wrists in 2018.?We've told you about the watches we'd wear everyday, the watches that haunt our dreams, and even the things that caught us off-guard. We thought it would be worthwhile though to circle back, with this little bit of additional perspective, and to think about what watch we're recommend to someone looking to pick up his or her first fine timepiece. Luckily, this year we're spoiled for choice. Cara Barrett C Tudor Black Bay 32 ...

Next week we will be in Los Angeles with Panerai to celebrate the brand's latest collections of watches, and we would love for you to join us. On April 24, we will be visiting the Panerai boutique in Costa Mesa, while the next night, April 25, we will be at Panerai Beverley Hills. We will be joined both nights by Giovanni Carestia, President of Panerai North America, who, along with HODINKEE managing editor Stephen Pulvirent, will discuss the Panerai Luminor Due collection and the year's other SIHH novelties. There will be watches, there will be cocktails, and there will be good people. What more could you ask for, really? Space is limited for both nights, so ple...

IWC has just announced a new, e-commerce only version of its Pilot's Watch Chronograph, and it's a very interesting one indeed C the design is an almost exact reproduction of the much-loved original ref. 3706 pilot's chronograph, from 1994. This in turn was based on the famous 1993 Double Chronograph, with its Richard Habring-designed split seconds complication (a highly modified Valjoux 7750). The 3706 came in both a stainless steel case, and a ceramic case (we looked at the history behind the ceramic version, ref. 3705, right here).? This is sure to be a much-discussed new chronograph from IWC, and in that light, it's quite intriguing how it's been launched, an...

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