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Best Super NEWS Watches
Introducing: The A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus, Now In White Gold
The A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus has, if nothing else, established a very strong presence in the minds of Lange enthusiasts and watch lovers in general as the pioneering watch that broke a decades-long, almost total moratorium on steel watches from Lange. (For a very in-depth look at the original steel Odysseus, check out our Week On The Wrist). I don't know what I was expecting next, although I did think the likeliest move for Lange would probably be to build a small complication based on the design C a chronograph or a GMT version seemed to be the likeliest next move. Instead, Lange has just announced that the next member of the family will be in white gold and that the signature five-lin...
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon
The IWC perpetual calendar mechanism was revolutionary when it first debuted in 1985. It was the world's first so-called integrated perpetual calendar, in which all of the indications were mechanically linked to each other so that they could all be adjusted simultaneously, simply by turning the crown. At launch, in the Da Vinci ref. 3750, it was, as Walt Odets wrote in his in-depth analysis of the mechanism for Timezone, "about half the price of its nearest competitor," and offered unprecedented ease of use. One of the signature features of the mechanism, designed by IWC's Kurt Klaus, the legendary "Einstein of Schaffhausen," was the four-digit indication for the year, which in the original ...
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rtrograde Chronograph
Normally by this time in the year, we would have, in days gone by, already have seen IWC's new pieces for the year at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. The absence of a physical trade show has not, however, stopped the company from communicating about its new releases, and for this year, the focus is on the Portugieser collection. Two new complicated watches stand at the top of the collection both in terms of price and complexity. One of them is the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, and the other is the piece you see here: the Portugieser Tourbillon Rtrograde Chronograph. The watch at launch ...
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
Although Jaeger-LeCoultre is, for good reason, most strongly identified with the Reverso, it does of course have so many other watches, movements, and designs to its credit over its very long history that the Reverso, taken in context, starts to seem like the quite small tip of a very massive iceberg. One of Jaeger-LeCoultre's most important strengths has been the making of sturdy, classically beautiful round watches with small complications, and in that spirit, the company has just introduced a new model in the Master Control Collection. This is the Master Control Calendar. The Master Control collection has been part of the comp...
Vacheron Constantin has always had a reputation, throughout its history, for creating unusual and in many cases, highly complex unique timepieces for its most particular (and most affluent) clients. Today, the firm has announced that its "Les Cabinotiers" department, which is devoted to both customization of existing models and to the creation of unique pieces as well, has created the latest in a series of astronomical complications. The new unique piece is the Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Striking Grand Complication C Ode to Music, which is part of a group of unique pieces collectively called the "Musique du Temps" watches (Jon Bues has written about several of the other pieces in the colle...
With the launch of the FiftySix in 2018, Vacheron Constantin added a new round case shape to its current collection and made a bid to bring younger watch lovers to its fold. From the beginning, FiftySix featured both steel and gold options, and over time, more complications were added. Most of the options that I've taken note of to date have struck me as being on the dressier side of the spectrum.Today, we're seeing a new calendar version in the growing FixtySix lineup?that features a warm sepia-brown dial matched with a brown calfskin strap and an 18-karat 5N pink-gold case.?While not part of Vacheron's popular Historiques range, the FiftySix was indeed inspired by the company's quite legen...
Best of Watchville: A Starter's Guide To The Square G-Shock, From Fratello
For today's edition of Best of Watchville, we thought we would showcase an article that takes us deep on an old favorite, the Casio G-Shock. The team over at Fratello put together a beginner's guide of sorts that looks at a particular subset of the G-Shock line: the square G-Shock. The foundational design and square shape was featured on the very first model produced in the 1980s by Kikuo Ibe and has gracefully endured all these years.?This fun treatise on the square G-Shock plays by only one rule: the watches examined in the article stem, at least aesthetically speaking, from the original Casio G-Shock DW-5000C from 1983. If you...
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42
When I think of IWC's complications, my mind tends to go to one of two places, each of which arose from IWC's well-earned reputation for being a brand for watch-lovers first and foremost.? On the one hand, there is the Doppelchronograph, developed in the 1990s by Richard Habring to function on a modified Valjoux 7750 movement. On the other hand, there is the IWC perpetual calendar. The original work of watchmaking legend Kurt Klaus in the 1980s brought an egalitarian appeal to a complication long associated with prestige and great expense, and also did so on the back of the humble Valjoux 7750.?Today, we're looking at a new batch...
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
If you're going to make a watch line up dedicated to the yacht club C which IWC established as a subset of the Portugieser in 2010 C a tide-indicating complication only makes natural sense. (The name was first used, of course, in 1967, for a watch intended to be an all-weather but still club-elegant sports watch.) So, 10 years into the Yacht Club family line, IWC has just announced the new reference IW344001 Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. Presented in red gold with a shining blue dial and a matching blue rubber strap, this new Portugieser certainly looks the part while debuting IWC's newly developed tide-following complication.? ...
Introducing: The A. Lange &?Sohne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater With Blue Dial
The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is a really important watch for A. Lange & Sohne, both technically and symbolically. It was the brand's first dedicated striking watch when it was released in 2015, and it caused quite the uproar of excitement too. It utilized technology that was originally developed for the brand's absolutely insane Grand Complication, but now paired with the company's distinctive Zeitwerk and its digital time display. It looked unique, and its decimal repeater system (which chimes out hours, ten minute increments, and then minutes instead of the usual quarter-hours in the middle) felt intellectually coherent with the precise personality of the rest of the watch. It showed t...
Retailer Spotlight: de Boulle In Dallas, TX, And Richter & Phillips Jewelers In Cincinnati, OH
The retailers in the spotlight today have both carved out niches for themselves. In Cincinnati, Richter & Phillips is not only catering to, but also creating a burgeoning watch scene. As any HODINKEE reader knows, there's a social aspect to our hobby. ?Even the current situation isn't stopping the gatherings, they're just online now. Richter & Phillips is leading a scene where it didn't exist before, and that's a special position to occupy.? Down in Dallas and Houston, de Boulle is consistently moving the scene forward; they quickly became an established force in the industry. They also created a scene where it didn't previously exist, bringing a number o...
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph
The product of a special project from within Vacheron Constantin's Grands Complications workshop, this is the stunning new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph. It's a monopusher chronograph with a gorgeous tourbillon cased in a subtle and dressy pink gold case. It's hand-wound, gloriously complicated, and oh-so-pretty. It's Vacheron's reminder that, unlike tradeshow season, high-end watchmaking is far from canceled in 2020.? Initial Thoughts Click an image and scroll around a bit in the details. While I am far from a champion of the tourbillon, if you're going to include one, make it like this. Make it ...
Introducing: The Cartier Maillon de Cartier
In anticipation of Watches and Wonders, Cartier has been teasing out a few of the releases for 2020 C one of which is the brand new collection, Maillon de Cartier. This collection is one of my favorite jewelry watches to come out in recent years. It features an entirely new design, but with DNA that is strictly Cartier. The Maillon de Cartier is, for lack of a better word, a bracelet watch. It has a relatively small dial with the case measuring 16mm x 17mm and a twisted linked bracelet that is the same thickness as the case. The watch comes in a variety of metals: white, yellow, and pink gold. The pink-gold version has diamonds on the bezel, or you can get a full...
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 'Boutique Edition'
Making the perpetual calendar is a point of pride for IWC. Ever since the first Kurt Klaus-designed IWC perpetual calendar, which sought to simplify and democratize this lofty high-complication, it's been an important part of the company's catalog. While IWC's perpetual calendars are no longer modules designed to fit atop the humble Valjoux 7750, as Klaus' was, its complicated movements do still enjoy a reputation for durability that fits with the a long-held reputation for making unfussy tool watches.? The watch we have here is powered by one of IWC's 52000 series of movements, which have a well-earned reputation for their robus...
Introducing: The Oris x Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five Special Edition
The cult of Japanese denim is, as you might expect, impressive in both its commitment to detail and its obsession with story and personality. In collaboration with Momotaro, a revered Japanese denim brand whose creations are often characterized by a pair of white stripes, this is the brand new Oris x Momotaro Divers Sixty-Five special edition. If you think watches are taken seriously, wait until you dip a toe into the indigo blue waters of high-end denim. A dual passion match made in heaven, the resulting Divers Sixty-Five is an eye-catching blend of Oris's strengths in color, contrast, and varied materials.? ...
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
If I were to design a watch that perfectly represents where Vacheron Constantin is at the current moment, I think I'd come up with something pretty close to this new release. Meet the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, an openworked version of VC's distinctive take on the slim, complicated sport watch. When the latest generation of Overseas watches debuted back in 2016, the halo piece for the new collection was the ultra-thin perpetual calendar in white gold with a stunning grey dial. It had a ton of fans here at HODINKEE HQ, and I think for most of us that initial excitement hasn't subsided one bit. The watch looks great, is an example of true high watchmaking, and is about as...
Hands-On: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph, With In-House Caliber 69355
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph has existed in some form or another since the 1990s and, with each iteration, has excelled in toeing the line between sport and dress. Then, just a few months ago, the brand went ahead and one-upped themselves, introducing this watch, the Ref. 3716, equipped with the fully in-house manufacture caliber 69355. Having the chance to get up close with this watch confirmed a lot of preconceived thoughts I had, while providing a chance to peek at the new mechanics under the hood. With a design relatively unchanged over the course of nearly 30 years, The Portugieser Chronograph still presents as appealing an offering as ever, with truly us...
Introducing: The Herms Slim d'Herms GMT In Rose Gold
The Slim d'Herms GMT is back this year, but now it's in rose gold. The modern classic is an addition to the existing Slim collection that was first launched in 2015. Known for the quirky Philippe Apeloig-designed numerals, the Slim d'Herms GMT was released in 2018 in palladium with grey dial and again later that year with the HODINKEE Limited Edition version that featured a blue dial. This watch is the same great GMT you know and love, except now it is in rose gold with a blue dial. The asymmetric numbers on the sub-dial indicate the home time while the secondary sub-dial displays the date. The L and H indicate AM or PM in the local (L) or home (H) time zones. ...
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Marina '70 Years Of Luminor' Collection (PAM 1117, 1118, & 1119)
Way back in January 1950, a patent was granted for a luminous material called Luminor that could be used on watch dials. Now, on the 70th anniversary of that innovation, Panerai is releasing a trio of Luminor Marina models to celebrate C and, as you might imagine, they make creative use of lume well beyond the typical applications on hands and dial markings. The trio of watches we have here share a lot in common, though they each present something unique too. All of them are 44mm across and use a case in the familiar Luminor Marina profile, with the oversized, locking crown guard, the short, robust lugs, and the round, sloped bezel set on top of the cushion-shape...
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech 44mm (PAM01663)
Continuing their push into advanced composites, Panerai has just announced a classic 44mm Luminor Marina with a case made of a specialized material derived from mineral basalt fibers. Yet another project from the brand's Skunk Works-like Laboratorio di Idee, the PAM01663 Luminor Marina Fibratech 44mm takes one of the most classic and well-known shapes in watches and renders the case in this special new material, which has never before been used in watchmaking. ? Initial Thoughts Said to be 60% lighter than steel, Panerai's Fibratech is born of the aerospace industry (like most great things) and is created...