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One thing's for sure about a Panerai: If you're into watches, you're pretty much guaranteed to recognize the Italian brand's silhouette from across the room. Blame it on the large, cushion-style case. Or the distinct crown guard of the Luminor, one of the brand's two signature collections. Or even the military-inspired dial, with its large numerals and markers. Wrist Size: 6.5in | 16.51cm In the early 1990s, Panerai did something new. Long a supplier of watches to military branches like the Italian Navy, it started producing watches for the general public. Quickly, burly-wristed celebrities like Stallone and ...

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. This Week's Vintage Watches After presenting our Vintage Watches selection last Wednesday, Apple really one-upped us later in the day by announcing major news in the form of three new Apple Watch releases. If an "ultra" watch is really what you are looking for, the vintage team makes the weekly case that looking decades in the past is better than a piece of brand-new tech. To each their own in the world of watches, but this collection of seven fresh vintage pieces should scratch just about any itch with something for everyone. ...

Limited editions can sometimes feel like a cash grab, but they also offer a watch company a chance to try something new and see how the public at large reacts. They are also an opportunity to celebrate a historic event or anniversary. Either way, limited editions often become future collectibles as they push the boundaries of design while only allowing a few people to get their hands on one. That is where pre-owned comes in, a chance to get that rare piece that came out before you collected, or were not ready to buy yet, or just missed the chance. Here are a few pre-owned picks that vary in rarity, but all spent only a short time in the Authorized Dealer's case. ...

Vulcain, a brand we've not heard much from in a long time, is back in a big way with the revival of the Cricket line. These new watches harken back to the brand's heyday as the "Watch of Presidents." Today marks the release of the President's Heritage Cricket in two configurations: The Cricket Classic and the Cricket Tradition. Both models come in either 36mm or 39mm sizing. The Classic arrives with painted indices filled with faux-aged luminescent material as well as lume-filled alpha hands. Its design seems to pull straight from the original Cricket itself C referred to by collectors as the LBJ dial because U.S. President Lyndon Johnson is believed to have worn...

Bell & Ross has recently announced a new version of the BR 05 GMT, which features a silver-white dial and adds a second color option to the GMT models of the integrated-bracelet styling of the BR 05 lineup. With a legible red 24-hour hand, this caller GMT looks great with a silver dial and is also the first time that B&R designers have offered a BR 05 in a color that wasn't black and blue. I think they chose well.? Like the black dial BR 05 GMT that was launched last year, the BR 05 GMT White uses a 41mm steel case and can be had with a full steel bracelet or a rubber strap that is designed to integrate directly with the ...

"I am not even sure we can call it a watch."Ben Clymer wrote those words about the Apple Watch a little over eight years ago when the very first generation of the category-leading smartwatch was revealed. A lot has changed for Apple Watch since then, but the initial ambiguity is just as relevant as ever. People are, somehow, still fighting about this.? The Apple Watch is a device that can save your life, keep you healthy, and help you communicate with others. Traditional timekeeping seems quaint by comparison, though of course it can do that too.? The Apple Watch Series 8 goes on sale today, and I've ...

There's no question that smartwatches have had a major impact on the world of horology, and on the very idea of what a watch can be. Even though they're often dismissed by mechanical-watch purists, their functionality (and the depth and range of functions available) improves with every passing year C to the point where they're no longer a novelty but, for many people, a necessity. Just last week, Logan reported on Apple's latest Series 8 models and their new temperature-sensing capabilities, ECG app, and car crash detection monitor. (In case you missed it, he also went Hands-On with the Series 8, yesterday.) The same day as the Apple announcement, James weighed i...

What's a watch fit for a king? As the newly ascended King Charles III has shown over the past few days of public mourning over the death of his mother, Queen Elizabeth II, it might not always be the watch you expect. But for the new king, who's always been stylish, with a taste for the artisanal, the watch he's been wearing just makes sense. While making public appearances to celebrate Elizabeth's life and mourn her death, King Charles III has been wearing his Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph. It's a watch we've spotted on the new king before C for example, at the royal wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. While Parmigiani Fleurier might not be a house...

Conventional watch-snob wisdom C usually based on little more than photos somebody posted to the internet C says that the Girard-Perregaux Laureato looks like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe Nautilus had a baby. But I've seen the baby. I've tried the baby on. And I can tell you that I do not share this sentiment. The watch, like all watches, deserves to be judged on its own merits. The Laureato was born in 1975, three years after the Royal Oak and one year before the Nautilus. Let's call the Laureato "Stainless Steel with Integrated Bracelet Icon Watch Num...

White or black dial? Panda or reverse panda chronograph? These are the two-sided debates that define watch enthusiasts, making for endless debate the way a simple "MJ or Lebron?" or "Bieber or BTS?" might among the right demographic (for the record: MJ and Bieber). But with the latest Timex x Todd Snyder collaboration, you can finally answer: both. The long-time collaborators have just released their latest mashup: The Timex x Todd Snyder Mk1 "Black + White." It's a tuxedo-style tweak on Timex's classic Mk1, with a dial that's split right down the middle to be half black, half white.? The brands will tell you it's a blend of dive...

Announced in conjunction with the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Concept line, this is the latest expression of one of Audemars Piguet's most wild watches, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT. Never one to skip the chance to celebrate an anniversary, the Concept line was created as a special project to mark the Royal Oak's 30th birthday in 2002. Since then, the Concept line has operated as the most avant-garde branch of the Royal Oak family tree, offering very limited production of equally bold and decidedly tech-forward modern Royal Oaks.? The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT debuted in 2018, but the general fo...

Audemars Piguet just announced three new variations of the Code 11.59 collection, demonstrating the Swiss watchmaker's dedication to the line as it celebrates the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary. The three different just-released Code 11.59 watches all iterate aesthetically on existing Code 11.59 models in dramatically different ways.? The new Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked features a blue ceramic case that's encompassed by an 18-karat white gold bezel, lugsand caseback. The movement inside is the hand-wound openworked tourbillon-equipped caliber 2948, which has been comprehensively decorated in numerous shades of blue through a chemical process known as Atomic La...

Queen Elizabeth II's watch collection was, in many ways, what you'd expect it to be. I say that with the utmost respect. The Queen's dependability was a quality that many Brits came to rely on and will surely miss with her passing. Having been born and raised in the U.K., I myself acknowledge this overwhelming feeling of respect for the late monarch. My family are by no means royalists; in fact we never spoke much of the Queen at all. Aside from the yearly tradition of my grandmother watching her annual speech on television at Christmas, Queen Elizabeth was a quiet presence in my home. Of course, there were celebrations and Jubilees that were observed at school C...

In Watch of the Week, we invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. The author of this story is quarterback Tom Brady, an IWC ambassador and HODINKEE investor (and, oh yeah, seven-time Super Bowl champion). We caught up with him a few months ago at a charity golf tournament, and here's what he had to say. I remember back in 2004, I was walking through the streets of Florence and I stopped by a Panerai boutique and thought to myself, "I'm never going to spend that kind of money on a watch."And here I am, 18 years later, eating my words. I'm participating in a charity golf tournament C?'The Big Pilot ...

Longines turns the big one-nine-zero this year. Yup, the Saint-Imier-based company is 190 years young in 2022, and it shows no sign of slowing down. First came the Spirit Zulu Time GMT in March of this year, outfitted with a local jumping-hour hand and an impressive sub-$3,000 price tag. A few months later, Longines dropped the high-beat Ultra-Chron Diver, inaugurating a new internal chronometer standard in the process. And last week, Longines released its most clear-cut anniversary release yet, with the new Master Collection 190th Anniversary models. The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary series consists of a trio of t...

For a fancy car show, The Bridge is surprisingly relaxed. With summer winding down, and the bedlam of high-season Hamptons drawing to a close, it truly feels like one final garden party before the onset of melancholy fall. At The Bridge Golf Club (formerly the Bridgehampton Race Circuit), we took in the atmosphere, soaked up the Peconic Bay scenery, and lamented the end of warmth on the East Coast C and at every turn, we were on the lookout for notable watches. But first, the cars. The invite-only afternoon hosted a collection of some of the world's most coveted and rarely seen automobiles; I felt a true a...

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. This Week's Vintage Watches We do our best to diversify the Vintage Watches selection here at HODINKEE. Watches like an early Zenith El Primero ref. A384 are offered as many times as we can source them, last week we offered a 1980s Sinn, and the week before that someone picked up a Heuer Yacht-Timer wrist-worn stopwatch that doesn't even keep the time of day. That all being said, Rolex is undeniable. The Crown will always have a place in watch collections of all kinds and, with that, our offerings here on Wednesdays. The classics are th...

Big news out of Biel, Switzerland today as NORQAIN announced their new Wild ONE (cue the Sia) line. While the release of four new rugged and colorful sport watches C including one Limited Edition collaboration with Dean Schneider C would be exciting enough, the real headline is the introduction of the brand-new material found in said line.?NORTEQ is a proprietary material ?that, according to the press release, is six times lighter than steel and three-and-a-half times lighter than Titanium (cue the Sia!). The material and subsequent Wild ONE line are the brainchildren of new NORQAIN advisor to the board Jean-Claude Biver (cue the...

Swing by the restaurant Tradisyon in Manhattan's Hell's Kitchen and order absolutely anything. If you see a guy around 40 years old with a goatee and mustache wearing a Yankees hat, looking like he's having the time of his life serving up Filipino comfort food in paper bowls, that's Anton Dayrit. He runs the place. Ask him about his watch collection, which includes but is not limited to the four discussed here, as well as more from Tudor, Universal Genve, and Omega.? "It's not like I get myself a watch every time I move forward as a chef, or restaurant owner, but I have a tendency," Dayrit says. For example, about six years ago he was in a shop getting one watch...

Recently, when I opened up a box from Seiko and pulled the brand's new SPB313 out of the bubble wrap I was overwhelmed with dj vu. I could swear I had seen this watch before, that I had been here before. But not "here" here. Somewhere like this, with a watch kind of like this. What was it about this watch's familiarity that felt so much like something I knew? When James wrote about Seiko's introduction of the SPB313, 315, and 317 as a part of its ongoing "Diver's Watch Re-Interpretation" series earlier this year, it caught my eye the way a lot of Seiko releases do. That ineffable familiarity of classic, quintessential Seiko designs C the case shape, the b...

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