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Before a single screw is put into place or a single spring is twisted into shape, countless hours go into designing each and every wristwatch you see. The fusing of history, engineering, and craftsmanship is no easy task, and creating a watch is almost the perfect design problem. We will speak with IWC creative director Christian Knoop, Vacheron Constantin heritage and style director Christian Selmoni, and Bulgari managing director Guido Terreni about how each of them approaches designing watches, from first principles, through R&D, and finally on to marketing and merchandising. If youve ever wondering how your favorite watches came to be, you wont want to miss this one....

For both A. Lange & Sohne and Audemars Piguet, the last two decades have seen the transformation of each brand from a relatively niche firm, with a correspondingly niche appeal, to modern brand powerhouses whose most iconic models are recognized the world over. Join CEOs Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias, of Audemars Piguet, and Wilhelm Schmid, of A. Lange & Sohne, for a sure-to-be-lively discussion of the evolution of such models as the Royal Oak and Lange Datograph, and how both companies have become household names among both seasoned connoisseurs, and new-to-watchmaking enthusiasts....

Back in the 1980s, a small group of Italian watch dealers started buying up exotic dial Rolex Daytonas, later dubbing them Paul Newman Daytonas. This watch originally sat untouched in retailers cases and cost less than $1,000. Now some rare examples fetch more than $1 million. How did one group of people from one country influence the way we collect vintage watches so strongly? We sit down with two men who have seen it all, from both collecting and selling standpoints, John Goldberger and Davide Parmegiani. Both are legends in the vintage watch world and are testaments to how one country has changed everything....

Sit down with HODINKEEs team of editors and ask them anything C yes, anything. From our favorite watches to how we really feel about date windows, were all ears....

Design Miami kicks off today and, as the official watch sponsor of the show, Panerai has announced a special limited edition Luminor available at the fair. The Luminor 1950 10 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio 44mm ?(PAM986) is essentially a blue dial version of the PAM533. Rocking one of the brands more impressive movements, this handsome Luminor stands out with a strong use of color and very limited production.? Initial Thoughts The substantial name covers most of the highlights, with this 44mm steel Luminor using Panerai's P.2003 movement for 10 days of power reserve, a GMT function with 24 hour indication, A...

Editor's Note: The HODINKEE 10th Anniversary Weekend, or H10 as we're calling it here at HQ, starts today! We thought it would be fun leading up to the big weekend to ask our editors and writers to each pick one of their favorite stories from the first decade of HODINKEE to share again with you all. It could be a story with personal significance, a story that changed their relationship to watches, or just one that they really want everyone to check out again. Enjoy. When asked to name my single favorite story in HODINKEE history by my friend and managing editor Stephen Pulvirent (otherwise known as the brains of the operation), I wasn't sure where to begin. So ma...

After months (and a decade) of planning, the HODINKEE 10th Anniversary Weekend (or H10 as we have lovingly nicknamed it) is finally here. We have a strong lineup of panels, evening events, and a few other surprises awaiting this weekend in New York City. The festivities will include an all-star lineup of watch world luminaries, ranging from Jean-Claude Biver to John Goldberger, Raynald Aeschlimann to Rolf Studer, and Alton Brown to Roger Smith. In addition, the HODINKEE team will be on hand throughout the weekend and will be taking questions from the audience on Sunday afternoon. We've got all your watch bases covered.?Not able to attend? Fear not! We will be live streaming all of the panels...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on! If you somehow managed to miss it, we hosted the HODINKEE 10th Anniversary Weekend (H10 for short) in New York City this weekend. There were a number of amazing panels and events, which you can stream right here, including an incredible episode of HODINKEE Radio recorded in front of a live audience. Our guest? The inimitable Alton Brown.Alton is a tough man to categorize. He's a TV food personality known for shows like Good Eats and Iron Chef America, a chef, a...

Next year will be the 20th anniversary of F.P. Journe's Chronome?tre a? Re?sonance, an icon of modern watchmaking (and I don't use that word lightly). The celebration of this watch completing its second decade will be a bittersweet one: Journe is releasing a special edition of the watch that will only be produced for the anniversary year, but once 2019 comes to a close the watch will be retired altogether. The new Re?sonance is very much the watch you already know. It's 40mm in diameter, made in either platinum or rose gold, and it houses the Caliber 1499.3 with its pair of balance wheels beating in resonance with one another, thus powering the two timezone displays. This version however has...

On November 29 we welcomed over 200 excited guests to the Swatch boutique in New York City's Times Square to celebrate our latest Swatch collaboration, the Sistem51 Blue Edition For HODINKEE. Coming one year after our first partnership, the Swatch Sistem51 HODINKEE Vintage 84, this watch is all about taking little elements of the past and remixing them with Swatch's usual sense of fun and color. Swatch U.S. brand Manager Ruud Krabbe and HODINKEE COO Eneuri Acosta welcomed everyone in from the cold night outside, and cocktails, hors d'oeuvres, and a live DJ kept everyone warm throughout the night. We had a ton of fun and can say that there really isn't anything quite like a party with Swatch....

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about.? Episode 70 arrives just in time for the gift giving season. Just like in past years, the boys sit down and recommend a few of their favorite things from the past year or so C but this time there's a twist. Jason and James decided to stick mostly to items under $100, with a later play for a break the bank option that costs a bit more. So whether youre buying for a TGN-type or want a few ideas to pass along, dig in with everything from bags to notebook...

What we have here is a round dress watch that combines in-house watchmaking with a dial that exhibits multiple in-house mtiers, ?including enamel and guilloch. The movement is an upgraded version of the Caliber 925, which we've seen before in the Master Ultra Thin Moon Phase, a watch that has appeared in a number of earlier executions and has been successful for JLC. Interesting to note here: while the Cal. 925 has a power reserve of about 40 hours, this one will run for 70 hours, meaning you can wear it through the work week, take it off for the weekend, and go back to a watch whose date function, moon phase, and time won't need to be reset before heading out on Monday morning.? ...

We took a bit of a break with the happenings of New York auction season and the excitement surrounding H10, though Bring A Loupe is back with all the vintage watch goodness you could ask for and then some. Theres a little something fit for every collectors tastes in this weeks roundup, including an ultra-thin from AP, one of the sharpest gilt dial chronographs weve seen in a while, and a little something from Omega for your inner gentleman racer. Also included is a less common Tudor that might catch you off guard. Lets jump right in. 1968 Omega Chronostop Driver Ref. 145.010 Upon initially getting i...

We've reviewed a lot of watches in our 10 years. Some of these have been new and innovative introductions that we thought could offer insight into where the watch industry was looking, while others were already all-time classics that we knew deserved an in-depth examination. We've even reviewed a smartwatch or two. One review that stands out though, despite being relatively recent, is James Stacey's A Week On The Wrist with the Tudor Black Bay GMT. This is a watch that caused a tsunami of excitement at Baselworld 2018 and the interest from collectors and enthusiasts shows no signs of waning anytime soon. Approaching a watch like ...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on! You had to know this one was coming sooner or later. The Grey NATO officially became a HODINKEE podcast two months ago, but it was always the product of two important HODINKEE contributors, editor-at-large Jason Heaton and senior writer James Stacey. We knew from the very beginning that getting these two guys on HODINKEE Radio to talk about why we all decided to make The Grey NATO part of the HODINKEE family was a no-brainer, but this conversation ended up bein...

With its elongated case and dial and its cabochon crown, the Cartier Tank Cintre is among the most desirable of the vintage Tanks. It was first released in 1921, four years after Cartier designed the first Tank wristwatch for the American General John Pershing, in 1917. The original Tank delivered to Pershing, which went on to be known as the Tank Normale, was subsequently offered in just nine serially produced pieces in 1919. The Cintre, which was the just the second Cartier Tank to come to market, was an evolution of the Tank Normale. As you can see in the pictures below, the original Cintre was, as its name suggested, a curved, slimmed-down take of the Tank Normale, and a strong early ...

For half a century, Seiko has been one of America's best-known watch brands. In good years and bad, Seiko quartz watches have been a fixture of the mid-range ($100 to $500) of the vast U.S. watch market. Since 1967, when Tokyo's K. Hattori & Co. set up Seiko Time Corp. in New York, Seiko has been the company's hero brand here.?Not anymore.?In a major strategic pivot, Seiko Watch Corp. (SWC) in Tokyo, successor to K. Hattori & Co., is shifting the focus of its U.S. operations away from affordable Seiko-brand quartz watches to Grand Seiko, the company's leading luxury watch brand. Grand Seiko, launched in Japan in 1960, and internationally in 2010, consists primarily of men's mechanica...

I spent a chilly winter day last week in Schaffhausen, visiting IWC to see what they have in store for SIHH 2019 (it's good C I can't say any more than that for now though, sorry). However, between a few shoots I was able to find some time to pop into the IWC museum, where I found something rather unusual. In fact, I didn't quite know what I was looking at and had to call over curator David Seyffer to explain it to me. It turns out that sitting just a few inches away was a unique IWC tourbillon wristwatch prototype. All that was separating me from this little piece of horological history was a pane of glass C and luckily David was able to take care of that pretty swiftly. ...

In my ongoing (read: less-than-relentless) attempt to cover just a portion of the ever-expanding microbrand scene, here is a diver that has been the subject of many comments, emails, and direct mentions: the Baltic Aquascaphe. Baltic has been around for a bit now, and the Aquascaphe is both their first dive watch and the follow up to their very popular Bicopmax Chronograph. Nicely sized and distinctly vintage-inspired, the Aquascaphe pulls at the heart of the dive watch enthusiast with a number of interesting details and a strong value statement.? The Aquascaphe with a rich blue sunray finished dial on the included tropic-style rubber strap. ...

We have some big news out of Switzerland this morning. SIHH and Baselworld, the two major watch industry events that are held annually in Geneva and Basel, respectively, will once again occur back to back in 2020. For 2020, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie will take place from 26 to 29 April, with Baselworld following from 30 April to 5 May. The agreement is set to extend to 2024. The two shows have a history of occurring back to back. In years past, editors and retailers would travel first to Basel to attend Baselworld before boarding a train to Geneva to attend SIHH. This latest development means one fewer trip for those who attend both shows. ...

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