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Best Super NEWS Watches

Although Montblanc in recent years has developed a fairly impressive reputation for a value-driven approach to complicated Swiss watchmaking (such as in the new Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar), the brand isn't afraid to pull out the horological big guns every so often. And that's exactly what we've seen at Watches & Wonders 2021, with the debut of the fourth-generation Montblanc Metamorphosis. Watches are no stranger to transformative allusions. Just look at the motif of a butterfly. Andreas Strehler has made it the defining element of the watches that bear his name. Frederique Constant just showed off an incredibly ...

Watch internet truism #5789: It's incredibly easy to be dismissive of a tourbillon.I think every watch enthusiast, at one point or another, discovers a biography on A-L Breguet somewhere on the World Wide Web, decides they are now a veritable scholar, and has remarked to a friend:"Don't you know a tourbillon is only horologically relevant in a pocket watch? What a waste of money!"(Don't lie C you've definitely said it.) I'll admit, it's something I may have uttered during my first year or so of learning the watch-writing ropes. But I've come to recognize the tourbillon as perhaps watchmaking's most beguiling anachronism. And to d...

It's hard to believe it's been two years since SIHH 2019. The SIHH fair is, of course, no longer with us, having been replaced by the larger Watches & Wonders showcase in 2020. But what remains are the watches we saw that year, and today, one of my favorites from the final SIHH showcase is getting a second chance in the spotlight. It's the Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, which I believed to be one of the show's sleeper hits. You might even remember Jon's excellent Hands-On with the first edition of the watch. It balanced vintage design cues without going overboard, brought in a compelling calendar complication, and was offered at a relative...

Cartier has gone full RGB, unveiling three new watches in the Tank Must collection. These are quartz-powered, monochromatic, and oh so colorful variations on the classic Tank design that pay direct homage to similar monochrome Must de Cartier watches from the 1980s. Almost every brand has a story of how it survived the "Quartz Crisis" (and for those that don't, tanks for the memories). In the case of Cartier, that story is inextricably linked to a collection unveiled at the end of the 1970s:?Must de Cartier. To get there, we must go back even further C to the birth of the now-iconic Cartier Tank in 1919 when the brand produced a ...

The last time we wrote to you to define our Terms of Service was in 2016. Much has changed in the five years since then, and yet our growing community remains as passionate as ever. As HODINKEE expands, we want to make sure our comments section remains a welcoming and inclusive space. Some of us have decades under our belts as collectors and watch enthusiasts, while others are just learning the difference between mechanical and quartz. Some of us have a two-watch collection, others a twenty-watch collection. Some readers approach the hobby as investors and collectors. Others are laser-focused on watchmaking craft. Still others view it all through the lenses of fa...

Last week, H. Moser & Cie unveiled the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept x seconde/seconde/ C a truly minimalist take on watch design with whole lot of flair in the form of a pixelated eraser for the hour hand. Well, that minimalist approach wasn't a one-off but rather a sign of things to come. The brand is continuing this theme with its latest release, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger's Eye, two striking dial variants utilizing C as the name suggests C Tiger's Eye (a variety of microcrystalline quartz). Initial Thoughts While in the same Endeavour collection as the seconde/seconde limited editio...

With Summer nearly upon us, H. Moser & Cie has introduced a pair of cool watches fit for the season. They are so cool, in fact, that Moser just came right out and said it. These are the Pioneer Mega Cool and the Pioneer Tourbillon Mega Cool, two timepieces with a beachy yet sporty turquoise aesthetic, continuing the brand's minimalist design effort. Pioneer Mega Cool This, much like other models in the Pioneer line, is Moser's take on the sport watch C the sort of piece for any situation C but with enough flair to fit within the brand's overall d...

NOMOS has been making limited edition watches in support of Doctors Without Borders for 10 years now (resulting in a pretty astounding 10,000 watches produced). This 10th year happens to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the Nobel Prize-winning aid organization, as well as the second year of the COVID-19 pandemic. In light of that, the brand is announcing another LE C using the Tangente 38 model C with part of the proceeds supporting emergency aid. Initial Thoughts Looking at this watch, the design cues associated with prior Doctors Without Borders iterations become very clear. There are the oxidized ...

The Tangente Neomatik 41 Update launched in 2018 and brought a new caliber into the NOMOS family of movements: the in-house caliber 6101. The main draw of this movement was C and continues to be C the special date complication, allowing both forward and backward functionality.Following this week's announcement of the new Metro Neomatik 41 Update, the brand is also announcing a further iteration of the Tangente, now called simply the Tangente Update, with a new Midnight Blue dial and still featuring the 6101 movement. What more can be said about a watch that already exists C and is merely getting a new dial variation? Well, not mu...

Swiss watch manufacturer Horage can be summed up in one word: Disruption. And with a recently launched microrotor movement and a tourbillon movement, the challenger brand is finally ready to take on the big players in earnest after 12 years of research and development. Horage makes watches C the Autark is their most well-known model C but they also make the movement inside their own watches, and they're looking to supply that movement to other watch brands, too. Part of their business has always been OEM manufacturing; in other words, manufacturing watches or components of watches for other brands. And they've learned a tremendous amount from that experience. But...

Around the HODINKEE water cooler, we've been calling this week's Watches & Wonders trade show "the Super Bowl of watches," and that almost captures the magnitude. It's certainly a showcase for the best of the best, and a date we've had circled on our calendars for months. But the Super Bowl is one game between two teams. Here we have dozens of brands, all competing for attention at the exact same time by releasing products that've spent ages in gestation. So it's less like a Super Bowl, and more like the Olympics crossed with an avalanche crossed with childbirth. And it comes at a time of enormous change in how brands launch watches C with major physical trad...

Early last month, Citizen announced a new flagship model in their Mechanical Model Caliber 0200. A 40mm-wide steel watch with an integrated bracelet or leather strap, the Caliber 0200 is an impressive watch that is quietly rocking an equally impressive movement. In this recent post from SJX Watches, take a (much) closer look at what is powering Citizen's first true foray into Grand Seiko territory. The Citizen Mechanical Model Caliber 0200 (photo via watchesbysjx.com) Produced in partnership with La Joux-Perret, the Mechanical Model Caliber 0200 is powered by an automatic movement dubbed "Caliber 0200." Click the link below fo...

The Club Campus is easily one of the most popular watches NOMOS produces. Why? Because it represents a core tenet of watch loving C the gift. The brand's even gone so far as to dub this collection the "Graduate's Club," because it's designed to be given as a gift to students on graduation day. In all the hustle and bustle of Watches and Wonders 2021, NOMOS has found time to reinvigorate the Club Campus in two sizes, with two new colors C orange and grey. Initial Thoughts If one watch captures the design ethos and general whimsy that is NOMOS, it's the Club Campus. It's a piece...

If you've followed Vacheron Constantin for any length of time, you might be aware of the automatic rattrapante caliber 3500 C and then again, you might not. It's an exotic caliber: A peripheral rotor, split-seconds self-winding movement, finished to within an inch of its life and with several new-to-the-caliber technical innovations as well. If you're a movement geek, you're probably salivating at the very idea, but chances are good that you either haven't heard about it, or forgot that you have C Vacheron used it exactly once, in 2015, in the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph.After a lengthy hiatus, the maison's brought it back in another limited edition watch C but one whi...

In 2019, IWC launched its first "sand-colored" model, the Pilot's Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert." Inspiration for the watch came from the dramatic landscape of the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake in the Mojave Desert. There, the Navy tests next-gen weapons systems and ordnance, training aviators on their use and application.Now, IWC adds two more sandy models to the line-up, the Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert" and the Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert." Just 250 examples of the Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert" will be made, along with 150 examples of the Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN E...

Early "observation watches," also known as pilots' watches, were simple: Three light hands against a dark dial with a minute track stuffed inside an oversized case. These watches played a large part in the proliferation of aviation, and IWC has been at it since the 1930s. In fact, the current Big Pilot's Watch isn't that much different from the pilots' watches of yesteryear. Much like fixed-wing aircraft, there isn't much that can drastically change in a flieger-styled Pilot's watch because the underlying function dictates a certain design. So things move rather slowly, and the incremental changes over time appeal to purists. In ...

Throughout IWC's history, 37 versions of the Big Pilot's watch featured a perpetual calendar complication. Needless to say, the formula is a company mainstay. It's also one of the most technically complex watches IWC makes. IWC's first perpetual calendar caliber was developed by Kurt Klaus in the '80s and accounts for discrepancies in the length of months and leap years. In theory, if the watch were set correctly and received regular winding, it wouldn't have to be adjusted until the year 2100. The Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar models, historically, have been limited editions, like the 2006 limited edition of 25 pieces mad...

If you're a watch editor or photographer, one of the obvious perks of the job (aside from realizing that you are going to end up with an incredibly large collection of brand baseball caps) is that you get to see an enormous number of watches in person. It often means that you also have to take some pictures, and that can test your skills and patience considerably C especially if you're just starting out. There are any number of tricks of the trade that you can apply which can make life easier (James Stacey's How-To on the subject is a great place to start if you're looking for simple tips that can make a huge difference in your results), but even with a lot of experience, and a decent amount...

The three-dimensional Arnold & Son Luna Magna moon-phase display is beguilingly beautiful, its two hemispheres evoking Earth's lonely satellite in all its stunning grandeur. Composed of equal parts aventurine glass and marble, it stands out as one of the more original depictions of the moon on a watch I have ever seen. Below its sparkling aventurine glass dial, the Luna Magna has a new in-house movement from Arnold & Son, the AS 1021, that allows easy setting via the crown. But it's the half-marble moon itself, all 2.2 grams of it, turning on a sturdy axis, that is the star of this show. Below, Arnold & Son head of product...

In 2018, NOMOS introduced a new caliber into its stable, an iteration of the Neomatik movement: The in-house 6101. This was an ultra-slim movement with a special date mechanism able to be set both forward and backward. The movement was launched into the Tangente C which was then called the Tangenete Neomatik 41 Update. Now, the brand is announcing a new Update (both in reference to the name of the watch and the literal fact that it's an update). Unveiling today, exclusively on HODINKEE (be sure to head to our Instagram for a very cool video), is the Metro Neomatik 41 Update C a new iteration on the classic Metro, now featuring the 6101 movement. ...

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