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My watch story isn't a typical one. I don't come from a family of collectors, and I didn't grow up with much interest in watches other than my very cool older cousin's G-SHOCK Baby G. I fell into the industry in my first job out of college, and like many of you may have discovered along your collecting journey, once you get a taste of how intriguing these little mechanical marvels can be, it's hard not to dive in headfirst. Still, it wasn't until my first trip to Switzerland and what would be the first of many manufacture tours that I'd develop a real reverence for timepieces. They say once you know how the sausage is made, you might become a vegetarian, but I fi...

After an inaugural event last year, Watch Week Aspen returns in a few weeks with a new slate of events taking place from August 7 to August 9 in the beautiful Colorado mountain town. For those looking to combine a summer getaway with some watch shopping and other events, Aspen might just be the ticket. The event is free and open to the public and features exhibiting brands including A. Lange & Sohne, Arnold & Son, Audemars Piguet, Avi & Co., Betteridge (a subsidiary of Watches of Switzerland, Hodinkee's parent company), H. Moser & Cie., IWC, Omega, Zenith, an...

Unveiled tonight at an evening with Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland, the Chronograph 1 ?C 1975 Limited Edition is Porsche Design's latest addition to its growing stable. This is the brand's cornerstone chronograph you know and love, but this time, it's notably devoid of a black coating. While that finish was revolutionary in 1972, ultimately making the Chronograph 1 emblematic, in a sense, Porsche Design began offering an uncoated stainless-steel sibling in 1975. The 1975 Limited Edition riffs on that uncoated vintage variant. Rather than stainless steel, the modern iteration is executed in glass bead-blasted titanium, a clea...

After about a year of existence, Albishorn has quickly become one of my favorite brands. Part of that is due to the quirky and creative design of the brand, which aims to create "imaginary vintage" watches that serve as a missing link between interesting vintage ideas and those that came before them. The other component is the brand's founder, Sbastien Chaulmontet, also Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita, whose impressive encyclopedic knowledge and collection of the most offbeat, sometimes one-off, and always fascinating vintage chronographs make him one of the most intriguing people to talk to and one of the few people who could get designs this right. ...

Happy Friday, and welcome back to Bring A Loupe! It seems as though the response to including more "bidder beware" picks here has been positive, which is nice. Though it's not the aim of this article to tear people down, if a random eBay seller is trying to pass something off as good that is clearly not, I'm happy to call that out. If we can save someone from making a poor decision by including it, we've done our good deed for the day. We're focusing on the good this week, but "bidder beware" will be back. Before the picks, both good and bad, let's look at the results from the last go-around. The skeletonized Chopard has been marked as "reserved;" the asking pric...

When Pharrell Williams launched JOOPITER in 2022, the debut sale was built around his own personal archive: sneakers, apparel, jewelry, as well as a handful of important watches including a platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar with a skeletonized dial. From the beginning, it was clear that JOOPITER was forging its own path and wasn't designed to mimic traditional auction houses. Entitled "The Art of Time: Rare and Coveted Watches", the platform's first watch sale is a 27-lot curation that hits where collectors are today and where they could go in the coming years. Call it trendy if you'd like. In contrast to a typical auction catalog, full of c...

Atelier Wen has always been dedicated to showcasing Chinese artisanal craftsmanship. A brand founded by two Frenchmen whose backgrounds in China compelled them to focus on a different kind of "Made in China," it has now introduced its third major design, following the porcelain-dialed Odyssey and the hand-turned guilloche-dialed Perception, in the Ancestra. It marks the brand's first foray into grand feu enameling, as well as an entirely new case design. So, without further ado, let's get right into the dial. Grand feu, or vitreous enamel dialmaking, is one of the best ways to execute color on a dial. There's just something about the saturation and richness of co...

Whenever a brand releases a new field watch, two things immediately spring to mind C World War II, and the Dirty Dozen. As much as the romance of hard-used, battle-worn patina still holds appeal, there comes a point where all of the vintage retreads start to feel a bit long in the tooth. So, where to turn when looking for a straightforward, utilitarian timepiece without all of the fuss and fauxtina? Aera may have just the thing for you. This past November, the Britain-based (and Swiss-made) watch brand Aera announced the M-1, its first field watch and, at 39mm, its smallest watch to date. Since its debut in 2017, Aera has focused...

One of the most enticing, beloved, and often expensive art forms in watchmaking is cloisson enamel, where thin strips of metal (often gold) are glued onto a base to create small compartments (or cloisons) that are filled with enamel to create evocative scenes.?To get four beautiful scenes, like the ones offered here by Revolution and Celadon Haute Horlogerie, requires a lot of work, but the results look well worth it. Autumn / Chrysanthemum () Summer / Bamboo () Spring / Orchid (m) This collaboration, between Wei Koh'...

One of the things that Glashtte Original has become known for is keeping the post-war era of Glashtte, Germany's design, alive. This time, they've taken the brand's 1970s-style square chronograph (with integrated bracelet) and rendered it in a panda-style design with a few red accents, released as a 100-piece limited edition exclusive to the North American market. Cased in what vintage lovers know as a steel "TV-case" 40mm by 40mm design, measuring 14.1mm thick with a sporty 100m of water resistance, the new Seventies 'X' Chronograph featu...

While mechanical watches and their micro-engineered marvels remain the raison d'tre for Hodinkeeand what drew me to writing about horologysometimes the mood calls for a complete departure. Something fun, rugged, and remarkably light on the wrist. Digital watches have evolved into so much more than Casios, even if they exist in a world of their own when it comes to choice. Whether you're chasing that nostalgic rush of childhood or, like me, "borrowing" your kid's F-91W for a bike ride, digital watches offer crisp legibility without the pretense. From budget-friendly classics to more sophisticated offerings, read on for compelling digital options that might just remind you why simple can be...

Oftentimes, with "provenance watches," the conversation is centered around potential value. We see rare birds come up at auction: Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona, or, more recently, Al Capone's Patek Philippe, and we're forced to think about what the watch plus the story could possibly be worth. Rarely do we think about what that watch meant to the owner, the man or woman we're looking at with such reverence or interest. Naturally, we are concerned with its value to the market today because it would be nearly impossible to understand the value that the person placed on the watch during their lifetime. This is a story about the profound value an extraordinary owner bestowed on their watch. ...

Sometimes, justifications for limited editions can be tenuous at best. When I first heard that Seiko was doing a limited edition release honoring the Datsun 240Z, all I could think of was their shared home country (Japan). I didn't realize the connection between the watchmaker and one of Japan's (and North America's) cult-classic cars runs deep and includes the sponsorship of several rally cars, including the 1971 East African Safari Rally-winning Datsun 240Z, an entry run by pilot Edgar Herrmann and co-pilot Hans Schuller. In fact, over a year ago, an Instagram account pointed out that a photo of Schuller after the race showed him sporting a Seiko 6139 Speedtimer (and some serious mutton ch...

Welcome back to Bring A Loupe, and happy first Friday of August! This week, I stumbled upon a few vintage dealers fighting on Instagram, getting mad online, about the age-old phrase "buy the seller." Fun fact: if you ask the internet who popularized this advice, it spits out Eric Ku (hi, Eric!). Anyway, I found the fight interesting as a newer, younger dealer bashed the idea, urging collectors to, essentially, do their own research, while others in the comments sang the praises of and expressed trust in their favorite vintage sellers. I side somewhere in the middle here. The best dealers in the world probably do know more than your average collector, and that is valuable most of them are f...

It's been fifteen months since we saw the first (and only) Snoopy-themed MoonSwatches introduced to the world. In MoonSwatch Years, that's practically an eternity. But today brings us a brand new Snoopy-dialed release. Though the black and white Snoopy MoonSwatches ushered in a new quartz-powered complication to the MoonSwatch line with the Mission To Moonphase, this time the pre-existing Mission to Earthphase, which we saw previously in grey, gets the Peanuts spin. The new aptly-titled Mission to Earthphase - Moonshine Gold ref. SO33N701L takes Snoopy and sits him and Woodstock on the surface of the moon, sitting there watching as a cartoon depiction of the Eart...

Shockingly high tariff rates on Swiss goods imported to the U.S. announced by the White House are threatening to upend the Swiss watch industry and crimp sales in the biggest market for luxury timepieces. U.S. President Donald Trump said this week he would impose a 39% tariff on Swiss goods, including watches, after the U.S. and Switzerland failed to reach a trade agreement ahead of an August 1st deadline.?That's nearly three times higher than any other European country and among the highest globallyexceeding even the 31% rate Trump initially threatened against Switzerland in his April "Liberation Day" speech that disrupted Watches and Wonders, the horological industry's premier trade show....

It's a great day for fans of the Alpinist, a watch that has somewhat of a cult following. The watch, which was originally made in 1959 for Japanese mountaineers to reliably track their time and find their way home, now has a new variant exclusive to the European market. Based on the popular SPB121 Alpinist model, the new SPB531 has a new blue dial inspired by the night sky above the Matterhorn, featuring a subtle vertical striped pattern, paired with 'cathedral style' silver-toned hour and minute hands. The watch measures 39.5mm by 13.2mm with a 46.4mm stainless steel case. If you know the Alpinist, you know the functions of the ...

Vacheron Constantin continues to roll out some stunning watches for the brand's 270th Anniversary. The second notable launch of the Overseas line (after the wildly complicated Overseas Grand Complication), the brand?has announced two new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models. In 18k white gold with a burgundy lacquered and sunburst dial and in 18k 5N pink gold with a rose gold tone-on-tone dial, these models are built on the same base that has existed for seven years now. But what a difference a dial makes. The strap options that come with the white gold version... ...

The London-based independent, dare I say microbrand, Anoma is back with the third installment in its outside-the-box A1 series. You might remember 2024's OG blue dial and the Slate from this past March C both with the same sharply angular yet oddly organic case that appeared to transform depending on how light hit them. Now comes the A1 Optical, an updated dial that leans even harder into visual disorientation. This version trades the more structured dials of the previous two A1s for something far more striking. The entire dial has been engraved with fifty slightly offset triangles, each cut one at a time using a dragged engravin...

The elegant Watches of Switzerland flagship boutique in SoHo, New York, was the recent scene of a high-octane Hodinkee Gathering focused on the timepieces from the Porsche Design brand, which maintains a very close relationship with the fabled German performance automaker. As such, while certainly every participant counts themselves as Porsche automotive fans, the intersection of performance luxury vehicle fandom and horological fandom is particularly profound. The opportunity to discuss Porsche Design in depth provided a unique opportunity ...

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