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Aren Bazerkanian, 30, isn't supposed to be here. He started his boutique independent watch brand, Havid Nagan, this past March with little more than a deep, abiding passion for watchmaking history and a desire to be part of its ongoing evolution.? "I don't have any venture capital money behind me," the Los Angeles real-estate agent turned F.P. Journe boutique manager turned founder says. "My family doesn't come from watchmaking or jewelry. We don't have crazy amounts of money. We're a middle-class family of immigrants. I'm not the kind of guy who's supposed to be running a Swiss watch company.?I don't have investors, I don't have anything like that. It's just me ...

A few months ago, after Eric Peng Cheng's fashion label Bait collaborated with Seiko 5, Cole chatted with the Los Angeles-based streetwear impresario to see if he could determine what, exactly, the world of watchmaking could learn from Cheng's empire. Cheng's commercial ventures are headlined by two flagship brands, Undefeated and Bait. Their presence is global, with retail locations in the United States, China, and Japan. Cheng's secret weapon is his ability to identify crossover opportunities with all sorts of unexpected partners. He's teamed up ?with practically every known sneaker brand on the planet, not to mention McLaren, Budweiser, UFC, and, as of this mo...

Bill Higgins is in the business of keeping New York City's historic buildings alive. He's a preservation architect, and he's worked on many of the iconic buildings you've seen about town. The Beekman Hotel, The Hearst Tower, Apollo Theater, and The Whitney Museum of American Art are just a few. It's not just buildings that Bill is working on, as a council member at the Grolier Club, whose mission is "the study, collecting, and appreciation of books and works on paper," Higgins is busy turning people into bibliophiles. And on his own time, he collects watches. In pairs. That's right; Higgins has developed a collecting philosophy w...

It's been said before but bears repeating: Grand Central Watch is a New York City watch-repair institution. More accurately, it is an institution within an institution, having occupied an inconspicuous storefront in Grand Central Terminal since 1952. An institution, wrapped in an institution, inside the 45th Street Passageway. Left to right: Max, Larry, and Steve, the three generations of Kivels of Grand Central Watch, pictured in 1994. Photo: courtesy Steve Kivel We first met third-generation owner Steve Kivel in 2014, and we learned that Grand Central Watch had come a long way since it was founded by Steve's grandfather, Max...

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here. This Week's Vintage Watches A half dozen "new" vintage watches just hit the HODINKEE Shop. While a great Longines Automatic in full 18k white gold with a bracelet and a Universal Genve "Tank" headline the best of the rest, our editorial focus is fixed on two pillars of the vintage Rolex game. 1982 Rolex Oysterdate Precision Ref. 6694 1960s Universal Genve 'Tank' I...

A lot of us are so deep into our own collecting hobby that we forget how most people think about watches C most folks don't think about them beyond the initial purchase decision. Certain watches do manage to garner mainstream attention outside the collector world, however. The TAG Heuer F1 is one of them. Take a look around a crowded room and the chances are high you'll see a TAG F1 on at least one person's wrist. It's one of the most common watches I've seen on people's wrists over the last few decades. The F1 model range has been around in one way or another since 1986, a short year after?Techniques d'Avant Garde (TAG) acquired...

"I'm in line." I glanced down at a text from Hodinkee staff photographer (and burgeoning writer) Tiffany Wade as my car crawls down 125th street in Harlem. As we pull up to the world-famous Apollo Theater, I realize that Tiffany is in a line line. Stretching out from under the marquis, past the Red Lobster and Blick Art Materials store, a crowd of well-dressed gala goers and theater supporters are waiting to join the 2022 Apollo Spring Gala.? We were invited as guests of Bulova, which was unveiling its new Bulova X Apollo?Theater special edition watch. The evening had everything C awards! tribute videos! jokes! Whoopi Goldberg! The Ro...

Headline image: the Citizen Caliber 0100, accurate to 1 second per year. One of the first things I did when I joined HODINKEE, back in 2015, was punch up a few articles on quartz watches, on the assumption that since they had been around since 1969 and had irreversibly and permanently changed the course of modern watchmaking, they might be of interest to the audience C Cara Barrett and I cooked up the idea of calling it Quartz Week. In retrospect maybe we were overoptimistic C there was some predictable outrage and one of the comments I remember most vividly said, "Jack Forster has ruined HODINKEE I miss the old HODINKEE," to which another Community member rep...

My dad isn't a watch guy. Wasn't a watch guy, actually C he now proudly wears a HODINKEE Swatch. And though I am not entirely sure he fully understands what I do, he still lets me know how cool he thinks the whole thing is. I guess I'm pretty lucky that there's a whole book available to send to my dad about what I do. Even though my dad isn't into collecting, you don't have to scroll very far to find a writer who either is a dad who loves watches or has a dad who loves watches. Inherited or gifted pieces are the entry point for many into this hobby, and as we've said before and will continue to say, and serve...

There is a sort of dismissive attitude among The Faithful towards the Chanel J12. Which I understand. After all, it is a watch that comes from Chanel (a fashion house, mon dieu!) and it is easy to attack it as a derivative, luxury-brand ripoff of the Rolex Submariner. Of course, given the shenanigans you have to go through these days to get within spitting distance of buying a new Sub at retail, perhaps the J12 does not look so bad after all if you are cross-shopping. But let's be honest C nobody is trying to decide between a Submariner and a J12. If you are considering a J12, chances are that what you want, is not a Sub, or a Doxa, or a Fifty Fathoms, or indeed any other sort of pseudo-tech...

Each Thursday, we bring you a selection of some of our favorite pre-owned watches in the HODINKEE Shop. This week, we focus on some of our newest arrivals, including a classic Breguet flyback, a white-dialed Panerai, and a Cartier Santos with all the sporty sophistication to set you up for summer. Breguet Type XXI Transatlantique There isn't a military pilot's chronograph of the last century more famous than the Type 20. Though numerous companies made watches to the French military specification, Breguet made them most famously, and continues the legacy of the highly legible and reliable aviator in its current collection with civilian mod...

Longines is a brand that often makes me think of how much I like a great sweater. Or how nice it is to crack into a book I've read several times before. There's something about the brand that communicates comfortable, quiet elegance rather well and they nail the dressy-casual thing to a T with likes of their Presence line and watches like the Flagship Heritage. It's interesting then, that if you take a look at their lineup of automatic watches, the entry point isn't some slim '50s-inspired design or subtle Roman-numeralled dress watch. It's a sports watch. I was surprised when I started working on this story to find that the bran...

There is no race like the Mille Miglia and no country other than Italy could do it justice. Originally held 24 times between 1927 and 1957, the Mille Miglia (also known as the 1000 Miglia) was an all-out endurance race held on the public roads from Brescia to Rome and then back to Brescia. This year marks the race's 40th re-running since it was re-established in 1977 as a regularity race, where drivers are challenged to cover a specified distance at a precise average speed (rather than driving flat-out, as you might on a race track).? The event is open to cars produced between 1927 and 1957 which also competed in the race during those years. As such, it has becom...

Pitti Uomo, the bi-annual menswear fashion week held in Florence finally returned to form this June following two years of lockdowns and travel restrictions. But what does the fashion and tailoring crowd have to say about this much-missed gathering? One fashion editor remarked to me, "Prep is back, look at all that color!" Surely prep colors come as no surprise in the Tuscan sun following such trying times. There was a fun hedonistic nod to the '70s Csee artist Mark Maggiori with his vintage Rolex Presidential and suit to match by Giuliva Heritage, below C plus carefree '90s Swatch watches galore. However, Jazz Age art-deco Bulova watches like the ones New ...

It's a little after 9:00 AM in Old Town Geneva. I've just stepped inside the Akrivia workshop on Grand-Rue with my photographer and friend James K./@waitlisted. But we're not here to see Rexhep Rexhepi, Akrivia's 35-year-old founder and one of the most talented young watchmakers in the world. No, today is dedicated to observing the work of Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the octogenarian casemaker who has helped Rexhepi transform his operation since coming out of his second retirement in late 2019. Located directly across the street from Akrivia's main watchmaking atelier, Hagmann, 81, leads a three-person team of craftsmen who build each of the company's cases by hand, usi...

This episode of HODINKEE Radio was recorded in Italy shortly before the start of the 40th running of the Mille Miglia, a modern recreation of an incredible 1000-mile race from Brescia to Rome and back to Brescia. Said to be the most beautiful race in the world, it ran from 1927 to 1957 and was then restored in 1977 as a regularity rally that plays host exclusively to cars from the original period. As you can imagine, it's become a banner event in the vintage car scene and, for this episode, I was joined by Karl-Freidrich Scheufele and Jacky Ickx to chat about the event, the cars, and how Chopard has played a long-standing role in supporting the race.? ...

While this may be a watch buying guide for your dad, it's definitely not your dad's watch buying guide. In honor of our fathers, I've assembled a collection of loosely silly but probably accurate dad archetypes to help you narrow down an accessible watch for your father figure that won't break the bank or his sense of self and style. You can do better. And to be clear, this isn't a guide for buying your dad his first watch or even his best watch, but rather to buying him a watch that can fit his taste and collection while being extra special because it came from you. And, because dads know it's not about the money, we kept the...

The watch world can be a difficult place to navigate. At HODINKEE, our goal is to make it more accessible and more interesting for all, but there's another source of universal wisdom that we can always turn to for advice: Our fathers. They know best, and when it comes to watch collecting, the fathers of HODINKEE have been there before. They've made the mistakes, played it safe, and gone too far, and in the end, they've learned from the process. Below you'll find nuggets of wisdom from fathers, fathers-to-be, and hopeful fathers that work in all aspects of the HODINKEE family, from repairing watches to writing about them, all the way to leading the entire bu...

This is not a story about the best watches out there. Or the most important ones. This is simply a story about the watches our fathers wore (or still wear, in some cases). The ones we remember seeing on their wrists as they helped us with our homework or taught us how to flip a pancake or hustled us into the car so we could get to the airport three hours before our flight. Chelsea Beeler, Operations Manager Dan Beeler before becoming a "watch guy." In 2000, my dad became a State Farm agent and was well on his way to becoming a "watch guy." Getting to this point in his career was no easy feat, so to ce...

In Watch of the Week, we invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's author is Weston Cutter, the owner, founder, and principal of Haven Watch Co. You can read more about him in HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 10. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Futurematic E502 is a bonafide horological curio C?it's delicate, it breaks easily, it isn't water-resistant, and it's expensive to service if you can find anyone willing to do so. I absolutely adore it and I was thrilled to track one down recently. But what I enjoy the most about my Futurematic isn't its clean dial, or the fantastical Futurematic wordmark, or the elegant case, or the rarity,...

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