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Best Super NEWS Watches
HODINKEE Radio: Watches And Wonders 2025?C?Day 4
Welcome to the home for Hodinkee Radio at Watches and Wonders 2025, thanks to the support of our friends at UBS and the UBS House of Craft. We will be recording and publishing daily podcast episodes to recap Watches and Wonders. Stay tuned for our takes on all the latest releases, takeaways from the show, and the general shenanigans that tend only to be captured on mic after a long day of seeing lots of watches and drinking (way) too much espresso. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds ...
Hands-On Review Of 2025 Cartier Priv Tank Guichets
Vintage Cartier watches were not made to the same quality and standard as those from brands like Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. The maison's vintage pieces are about the romanticism of a handmade watch. Owning or putting one on your wrist evokes the romantic, imaginative experience of strolling through 1930s Paris Chesterfield coat buttoned up, Homburg cap on, and cane tapping the limestone sidewalk. Upon arriving at 13 rue de la Paix in the 1st arrondissement, you enter Cartier, remove that Homburg, and ask for the latest in horological styling the Tank. That man is not worried about "in-house" movements, COSC certifications, or the lug-to-lug length; he...
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 6196P, The Best Calatrava In A Generation
I won't bury the lede here C the 6196P is the best Calatrava that Patek Philippe has released since I have been covering watches. For those that are new here, that means this is the best Calatrava to be released by Patek in 17 years. And my friend chat GPT tells me that that 17 years is damn close to what could be described as "a generation", so I'll reframe: the 6196P is the best Calatrava in a generation. That is, of course, in my (not so) humble opinion, only C but man, did they get this one right.?But let's take a step back, first. 38mm, platinum, rose opaline dial, killer movement? Yes please. We all know the history of t...
Reading Time at HSNY: When is a Book Not a Book?
This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by its librarians. Today's post was written by St John Karp. At the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), I'm one of the librarians with an affinity for cataloging. You might think that's as straightforward as writing down the title of the book and the name of the author, but you'd be forgetting one thing: clocks and watches are weird. We deal with a lot of unusual items that most other libraries don't have to worry about. Your local public library, for example, has to keep well stocked on the latest popular fiction. The world of horology, on the other hand, produces so many strange things that it's n...
Designed To Win: A Conversation With Ryan Gosling
In 1990, the Brazilian Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was at the peak of his career when he found himself in a tense interview with former driver and broadcaster Jackie Stewart. During the heated conversation, Stewart aggressively pressed Senna on his tendency toward mid-race collisions, highlighting the controversial Japanese Grand Prix win over his rival Alain Prost, who (arguably), as a result of Senna's driving, suffered a crash that cost Prost the race. Throughout the interview, Senna pushes back until he's ultimately compelled to admit that his victories were not due to dirty driving but a symptom of his destiny: "I'm not designed to come second or third,'' Senna declares. "I'm design...
Business News: Swiss Watch Industry Shocked By Trumps 31% Tariff Threat
The Swiss watch industry was sent reeling after US President Donald Trump threatened massive tariffs on imports to the biggest market for Swiss timepieces. In a speech Wednesday, Trump announced sweeping tariffs on more than 100 countries and trading partners, including China, India, and nations in the European Union. Trump showed a chart listing a levy of 31% on goods imported to the US from Switzerland.Trump said tariffs of 10% would be imposed on all trading partners while "'reciprocal" double-digit tariffs would be levied against a group of individual nations, including Switzerland. In comparison, Trump said the US would slap tariffs of 34% on Chinese goods, 20% on European products, 24%...
Business News: Swiss Watch CEOs Plot Next Move As US Tariffs Threaten Industry Sales
After details emerged Wednesday evening that the Trump administration planned to impose major tariffs on Swiss products, including watches imported to the US, Serge Michel, the founder of independent brand Armin Strom, got to work. Michel took in-person meetings with retail partners attending the Watches and Wonders salon in Geneva or reached out to others by phone. Together, they plotted an immediate response to the threat of 31% tariffs on Swiss goods entering the US.''They are saying, 'please ship whatever you have ready to ship now,''' Michel said in an interview. The US accounts for about 40% of the Biel, Switzerland-based brand's sales. In the short term, A...
Exactly ten years ago, at Baselworld (RIP) in 2015, I got to see the first iteration of a simple split-seconds chronograph from Patek Philippe since the 1436 C the 5370P.?Before anyone jumps in to say I'm forgetting the 5004, I'm not C I am referring to a watch with *just* a split seconds chronograph and no other complications C and further, I think about the 5004 hourly so trust me I'm not forgetting about it. When I wrote about it, the 5370P I was absolutely f*cking psyched, because it felt?like a return to the Patek Philippe that I loved. You can read the story here C?where I said it was basically the best watch Patek had come out with since the 5970 C?maybe even (gulp) before. And look, ...
Hands-On: The A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus In So Much Honeygold
Sports watches are sort of the last thing you think of when it comes to the German brand A. Lange & Sohne. Yet despite what many people thought when the first design was unveiled in 2019, the Odysseus has carved out a substantial presence within the brand's collection, with a number of wild novelties that keep playing with the model outside of the classic and still highly sought-after steel version. This year, Lange comes out with a very limited Odysseus in Honeygold, in a run of 100 pieces. On paper, sure, it just looks like Odysseus in another metal. We've already had steel, white gold (on a strap), and even crazily, titanium, so what now? Why is this a big...
Photo Report: The Artistry On Display At Patek Philippe's 2025 Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva
During the hectic week of Watches and Wonders, there are always dozens of other events going on across Geneva, and cumulatively, well over 100 new releases are being shown. But that's not counting Patek Philippe, which released well over 100 watches alone, and most of them you likely haven't seen yet. Offsite, at the brand's historic Patek Philippe Salon, the maison put on a display of their Rare Handcraft releases for the year, showing the best of their gemsetting, enameling, guilloch, and a world premiere in marquetry for the brand. The exhibition runs for a few more weeks and features wrist watches, pocket watches, and C?as you'll see C a whole lot of clocks. ...
Hands-On: The F.P.Journe Chronomtre Souverain 20th Anniversary Edition
In the mix of big launches from Watches and Wonders and non-affiliated brands dropping a lot of great product, one thing that flew under the radar was the release of two new versions of the F.P.Journe's widely beloved manually-wound extra-thin dress watch to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the model, the Chronomtre Souverain Collection Boutique. The two new models come with beautiful blue guilloch silver dials with 18K white gold numerals and apertures, in platinum or 18k 6N rose gold cases. After the 20th anniversary celebrations of the Tourbillon Souverain, Chonomtre Rsonance, and the Octa, it was time for the Chronomt...
Cartier's custom watch program, known as NSO, will end - at least in the way that we know it - as the vaunted French brand restructures how it makes unique timepieces for top clients. Cartier's new Chief Executive Officer, Louis Ferla, who grew Vacheron Constantin into a $1 billion brand and among the top four marques presenting at Watches and Wonders in Geneva last week, has asked Cartier executives to re-examine and rework the program that allows top clients to order custom-designed pieces.? Louis Ferla, CEO of Cartier. Image courtesy Richemont. The changes mean that Cartier's New Special Order program, or NSO, will no longe...
As I drove past the Palexpo in a cab just two days before Watches and Wonders, I was brimming with anticipation. The stories had been written, the embargo times had been set (mostly), and the photos had been edited. My main concerns were adjusting to the GMT +1 sleep schedule and ensuring my international data plan was robust enough to sustain my endless stream of posts on the Hodinkee Instagram account for the next week. I had just landed in Geneva for my first Watches and Wonders, and while much of my brief two months here at Hodinkee was spent preparing for the biggest week of the year in the watch world, no amount of work or preparation could have readied me for this incredible experienc...
Hands-On: Xhevdet Rexhepi Minute Inerte
It feels like it's well past the time to talk about Xhevdet Rexhepi. Maybe it's the perfect time. When we last talked to him in February 2023, Rexhepi was launching his eponymous brand and first watch, the Minute Inerte. But there were a lot of questions about the watchmaker and his product, as the piece only existed in renderings, and the concept was somewhat confusing to explain via text. Rexhepi isn't the most common name, so it will come as no surprise that after apprenticing at Patek Philippe, he joined his older brother Rexhep Rexhepi at Akrivia in 2015. But eventually, after seven years, Xhevdet found it was time to go his...
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 6159G Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date
When Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P in 2023, it instantly became a grail for me. Not so much to buy C no, you probably won't be shocked to hear that at $987,460 (today's price) for a perpetual calendar minute-repeater tourbillon, I'm not a buyer. But the aesthetics, that smoked sapphire dial, were such a radical change from anything Patek had ever done before that I had to see one in person, photograph one, or even hold one and understand it briefly. I texted everyone I know, asked at salons and ADs, and two years later, I still haven't seen it yet. But now I've seen its little brother, the new ref. 6159G, and I can start to interpret what the family is all about. If the ref. 5316...
One To Watch: Hazemann & Monnin C Two Young Watchmakers, Two Aesthetics, One Model, One Brand
Keeping up with the new faces on the independent scene could be a full-time job. When people ask me how they can follow what is happening and get ahead of the curve, ensuring that they don't miss out on an incredible young brand, all I can say is to keep in touch with collectors and follow who is coming out of the important watchmaking programs or winning awards. Sure, some people have a vested interest in seeing success out of brands they were early to support.?Still, once you cut through the noise, you start to find some real gems like Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin's "School Watch," a 20-piece limited edition Sonnerie au Passage avec Heure Sautante Instantane (passing chime with in...
Top executives at a host of Swiss brands say they expect to reduce production in 2025 as the economic shock of US tariffs hits an already uncertain luxury watch market. Even before the US slapped a 31% levy on Swiss goods in a surprise announcement that fell in the middle of the Watches and Wonders salon in Geneva, watch company CEOs were taking a prudent approach to production as the market slows after a post-pandemic-era boom.Now that caution is turning to production pullback for some, following the slide in international stock markets and the blow to consumer sentiment caused by the US tariff plan. In an acceleration of a longer-term trend, some high-end brands are leaning into scarcity, ...
Hands-On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G
If you've been watching Patek Philippe for the past few years, you've noticed the rise of a new style of Calatrava design inspired by the textured grips of a camera, a bolder case design reminiscent of the angular shapes of the vintage ref. 3448, with the subtle addition of a hobnail pattern that runs uninterrupted around the whole midcase. If you were the type of person to daily wear a Patek Philippe but wanted something more casual, more rustic, the ref. 5226G centers seconds Calatrava or ref. 5326G Annual Calendar Travel Time is just what the doctor ordered. Now the ref. 5328G joins with a robust eight-day power reserve to boot. ...
Gatherings: Celebrating the Art of Swiss Timekeeping with Leica
The Leica Store in New York's Meatpacking District is perhaps best known to fans of the brand's cameras, lenses, sport optics, and laser projectors, but recently, it played host to a select group of watch collectors and enthusiasts eager to experience Leica's Swiss-made timepieces. In addition to trying on the new ZM 12 collection of Leica watches, some 80 members of the Hodinkee community sipped Bruichladdich cocktails while Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang and Henrik Ekdahl, Managing Director of Ernst Leitz Werkst?tten GmbH (Leica's watchmaking division), hosted a convivial discussion and Q&A about the new collection. ...
Introducing: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm C Now In Steel
After the updates to the Fifty Fathoms Automatique line of 42mm watches over the last two years (the most recent being the brushed grade 23 titanium and red gold versions), Blancpain has added a new stainless steel version of the watch to the collection with four strap and bracelet options from stainless steel to sailcloth, tropic rubber, and NATO. Measuring 42mm by 14.3mm in a polished stainless steel case, the watch features 300m of water resistance, with a black sunburst dial and black bezel domed sapphire insert using the brand's slightly more vintage stylings. The case houses the caliber 1315 automatic movement with a 5-day ...