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Best Super NEWS Watches
For the first time ever, Neil Armstrong's commemorative gold Omega Speedmaster is coming to auction, offering a rare chance to own a watch that belonged to (and was often worn by) the first man ever to walk on the moon. With a whopping $2,000,000+ estimate, the watch will be sold by RR Auctions live at the Royal Sonesta in Cambridge, Massachusetts, at 6 PM ET on April 17, 2025. Omega has confirmed the watch's authenticity, and its specific provenance is bolstered by several images of Armstrong wearing the watch over the years. Buzz Aldrin photographed by Neil Armstrong. Photo courtesy RR Auctions. Omega originally made 28 comm...
Swiss Watch Exports Dip In February As Key US Market Loses Steam
Swiss watch exports fell sharply in February as shipments to the key US market declined, and demand for the most expensive timepieces weakened. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reports that the wholesale value of exports fell to 1.98 billion Swiss francs during the month, a decline of 8.2% compared to the same month last year.The steep monthly drop in shipments of Swiss-made watches to foreign markets suggests an industry-wide slowdown in demand is continuing and raises fresh concerns about the strength of a resilient US consumer. Exports declined in 2024 for the first time since 2020, following three years of record levels by value. Swiss wat...
Get your "this all seems like a broken record" comments ready, Bulgari has captured yet another ultra-thin watchmaking crown. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is now officially the thinnest tourbillon ever produced, measuring just 1.85mm in thickness. Well beyond the definition of a dynasty, today's tourb marks Bulgari's 10th world record in the ultra-thin arena. For lucky number ten, Bulgari returns to a record it has already set twice by my count. In 2014, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Wind held the record at 5.0mm. Then in 2018, Bulgari beat its own record and added two more with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automat...
Should You Run A Marathon In A Richard Mille?
A few weeks ago, Yohan Blake's Richard Mille RM38 Prototype came up for auction. This watch, which he wore during the 100m final at the 2012 Olympics when he was racing the fastest man ever, Usain Bolt, holds quite a bit of provenance. Yohan Blake was the reigning world champion going into the 2012 Olympics despite all eyes being on Bolt. Racing the fastest man in history is no easy task, and as the world defending champion, the pressure was on him to deliver. One might expect that Blake would avoid wearing anything that could potentially weigh him down in such a critical race, even if it were only a couple of grams. Yet, there on his wrist was an extraordinary exceptiona Richard Mille. ...
Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 43-01 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Ferrari
Yesterday afternoon, among a collected mass of international press and special guests, Richard Mille launched its latest Ferrari model, the RM 43-01 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Ferrari. Following 2022's ultra-thin UP-01, the 43-01 offers an entirely different take on the idea of a collab between RM and Ferrari. It's not thin. It has many complications. And if the UP-01 was made possible via a minimalist stance on the idea of what constitutes a Richard Mille, then the 43-01 is the maximalist take C and all the more Ferrari for it.? Okay, there's a lot to cover, and it's 3 AM in France as I write this, so let's get to it. ...
Last fall, Michael Tay and the retailer The Hour Glass put together what was likely history's largest community event dedicated to independent watchmaking. IAMWATCH, held in Singapore, featured a who's who of indie masters and rising stars. The likes of Max Bsser, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi, Rmy Cools, Petermann-Bedat, Jean-Claude Biver, and more held casual appointments with fans and clients and took part in several talks about the world of independent watchmaking. From left, Ral Pags, Ga?l Petermann, Florian Bdat, and Theo Auffret at IAMWATCH. If you weren't able to make it to IAMWATCH (especially for those in the...
Bring a Loupe: A Cartier 'Pocket Gambler,' A Mint Patek, And An Art Deco Mulco Chronograph
Welcome back to Bring A Loupe, and happy Friday! After pointing out a "bad" Patek last week, we're back to a standard lineup of "best" picks. The response to that warning pick was nice to see! You have my word that I'll do my best to call out more of the "bad" in the future. We'll start our recapping of results with our troublesome reference 565 by Patek, which ended up selling for $35,000 C a testament to the value of the parts still present. Robin Mann's Rolex "Pre-Daytona" ref. 6238 found a new home quickly at the asking price of 35,000. At auction in Zurich, the Rolex Oyster ref. 2416 sold for CHF 3,000 plus fees. And over on eBay, the Harvard by Gallet sold...
Introducing: The Formex Essence Ceramica Offers The World's First Ceramic Quick-Adjust Bracelet
Last week, Formex rang in its 25th anniversary with the Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC. While Formex has certainly felt like a mainstay in the "microbrand" space, I hesitate to even call them that because of its relationship with sister company Dexel, a supplier for a lot of the high-end Swiss watch industry. One of Dexel's strengths is in ceramic, as they manufacture many of the bracelets and cases in ceramic for high-end brands. Some publicly disclosed, some not. With that knowledge, Formex releases its take on a full black ceramic watch with the Essence Ceramica. Most ceramic watches, especially at this price point, CEO Raphael Granito explained to me during h...
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
This year at Watches and Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues developing the successful "Tribute" line with a new Reverso Tribute Geographic. It's a take on a travel time watch that's very different in execution from the model it cites in inspiration C the '90's JLC Reverso Gographique Dual Time. This newly released Reverso Tribute Geographic presents a significantly pared-down aesthetic to align with the design language of the current Tribute series. The case measures 49.4mm in length (essentially lug-to-lug) and 29.9mm horizontally, with a case height of 11.14mm. For context, the dimensions are identical to the current Reverso Tribute Chronograph, meaning that ...
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT PAM01575
At Watches and Wonders, Panerai launches the new Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575, a follow-up to the 33-piece limited edition of the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 launched back in 2022. When the PAM01269 first launched, it was certainly one of Panerai's most strikingly modern watches, with a smoked sapphire dial playing off of the complications of the watch. This new "Platinumtech" version (more on that in a little bit) serves as a very straightforward sequel to the first, with the same applied classic Panerai numerals and indices sitting on top of a dial that subtly reveals the day and date d...
Grand Seiko just launched two new chronographs with its recently developed Tentagraph movements. As a refresher, the original Evolution 9 Tentagraph debuted in 2023. It was Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph, and its name was an amalgamation of its several properties: ten beats per second, three-day power reserve, and automatic chronograph. Now, two years later, we see the first expansions to the lineup in two new models. The first, the Evolution 9 SLGC007 Tentagraph, is pretty straightforward. It's a new colorway on the existing Tentagraph, this time going for a panda-ish dial, with black subdials surrounded by a light blue main dial with the brand's ico...
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Unveils A Trio Of "Openface" Dials For Its 270th Anniversary
Brands love an anniversary year. Pretty much any milestone divisible by five represents a good opportunity to release a limited edition or two. Fittingly, to celebrate 270 years of Vacheron Constantin, the brand releases three 370-piece limited editions in platinum as a tribute to some of its best-known complications. The first is the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, reference 4030T/000P-H054. The name alludes to combining two complications with the new Calibre 2460 QPR31/270 in-house movement. With an open-worked dial giving way to the whimsical array of levers and gears for the complications, the day, month, and leap year discs are cra...
Introducing: TAG Heuer Introduces The Formula 1 Solargraph
If you've been following the start of the Formula 1 season or Andy's coverage of last month's new track clock design by TAG Heuer, I'm sure you've noticed the resurgence of the classic 1986 Formula 1 design in those clocks, with bright red fiberglass bezels that emulate the collection of watches that have become many an eBay deal hunter's favorite find. With last year's 10-watch collaboration with Kith, selling out in record time, we all knew that an actual regular production version was bound to appear. And here it is, the newly updated Formula 1 Solargraph line, with the design and colorways lifted straight from the 80s, in nine unique variants. ...
Introducing: Chopard Alpine Eagle 33: Where Luxury Meets Alpine Inspiration
One of two Alpine Eagles released at this year's Watches and Wonders, Chopard is continuing to iterate on its popular Alpine Eagle line. This is the first model featuring Chopard's signature Lucent Steel and ethical 18-carat yellow gold, offering a refined 33-millimeter diameter while maintaining the collection's distinctive sporting elegance. The Alpine Eagle collection reimagines the St. Moritz watchKarl-Friedrich Scheufele's first horological creation from the late 1970s. Developed across three generations of the Scheufele family, it draws inspiration from nature, particularly the alpine eagle, visible in details from the textured dial to the eagle feather-sh...
In-Depth: The Surprising Origins Of TAG Heuers Formula 1 Watches
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 was bright, colorful, and exceedingly popular when it debuted in 1986 C but its true origin story has never been told. In a conversation with vintage Heuer enthusiast Jeff Stein, Eddy Burgener, who designed the watch, reveals to us the surprising backstory of how the Formula 1 got its colors, size, shape, and name.? Please tell us about your family background and early years, and how you joined the watch industry. Designer Eddy Burgener. I was born in Neuchatel in 1954 and raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. Both of my parents worked in the watch indust...
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT
Well, would you look at this? Doxa finally has a GMT again. Today, in advance of Watches and Wonders 2025, Doxa has announced the new Sub 250T GMT. Following last year's release of the 39mm (and entirely darling) Sub 200T, the Sub 250T GMT offers a largely similar vibe with a smaller case size, plenty of colors, and a giant fourth hand to keep you on time in two places at once.? Where 2024's Sub 200T was 39mm wide, the new Sub 250T GMT measures 40mm wide, 10.85mm thick, and 42.9mm lug-to-lug. The cases are steel, offer 250 meters of water resistance, and can be had in one of several colors and on your choice of a steel "beads-of-...
The New Breitling Top Time B31 Measures 38mm
Breitling first introduced the Top Time in 1964 as an entry-level chronograph designed to attract a younger, style-conscious audience. Compared to the classic Navitimer and Chronomat models, it offered a young and fresh take on the classic chronograph design. ?The Top Time of old even secured a place in pop culture history when Sean Connery's James Bond sported a modified ref. 2002 in Thunderball the first watch modified by Q. The Top Time was initially released as Breitling's everyday, less "professional" and less "serious" chronograph option. Today, although no longer a chronograph, the new Top Time B31a time-only series of 38mm modelsfits neatly into the c...
Introducing: Oris Introduces A Rainbow Of New Big Crown Pointer Dates (Live Pics & Pricing)
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Oris brings a cornucopia of colors to one of its most well-known and longest-produced models the Big Crown Pointer Date. While most people familiar with the brand will conjure up images of fluted bezels and cathedral hands when they think of the Big Crown Pointer Date, this year's focus is on the modernized design language of the model that we first saw in 2021's Holstein Edition and eventually in the standard-production Calibre 403 and 473 iterations of the watch. First up are the in-house Calibre 403 variants. In addition to the standard glossy navy dial, there are two new matte dials, one green ...
Introducing: Ral Pags Returns With The RP2
Over the past few years, we've watched the rise of Ral Pags, from our first "Intro" on his Rgulateur Dtente RP1 to the Hands-On to his win at the inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives. Part of the benefit of the win at the LV Prize ?was a year-long mentorship from the team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, and I'm sure I'm not the only one who's been curious to see what would come next. Well, here it is C the Ral Pags RP2. Photo by Laurent Xavier Moulin The RP2 is a three-hand watch with Pags' pared-down aesthetic. This time, it focuses mainly on the best-quality finishing possible, with o...
Switzerlands COSC To Upgrade Chronometer Certification Standards
The Contr?le Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres, or COSC, plans to upgrade its standards for chronometer certification and is vowing to be more transparent as it faces increased competition. In a rare interview, COSC director Andreas Wyss says the organization aims to be more consumer-focused and will improve the accuracy requirements for COSC-certified movements to less than the current 10 seconds per day. Testing at a COSC laboratory "The tolerance today is 10 seconds C minus four and plus six C we will reduce that by a good portion,'' Wyss says. The standard for accuracy could be cut in half to as little as five seconds per d...