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In Watch of the Week, we invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's columnist is a Brooklyn critic and journalist who's previously published in The New York Times, The Guardian, and other fine periodicals. Please welcome her HODINKEE debut.? I like to text my friends links to the worst band T-shirts I can find on the internet. I guess I think this is a fun way to pass the time, and pretty funny; upon reflection, I'm not really sure how funny my friends think it is, but they tolerate it and respond with requisite emojis. I am, to my chagrin, a Deadhead, so most of the bad T-shirts I dredge up are Grateful Dead T-shir...

Tissot has made the strongest push of any watch brand of late in breaking through to mainstream watch buyers with its throwback PRX line of watches. You know the integrated bracelet, Royal Oak-on-a-budget pieces that have come hard for the "Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is the best value in mechanical watches" hive. Well this past week, Tissot emerged with a brand new take: The PRX Automatic Chronograph. The watch takes a similar retro stance to its predecessors by using a Valjoux A05 H31 chronograph movement (an automatic caliber which Tissot has seen fit to exhibit via a see-through caseback) and maintaining the angular 1970s ae...

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Email us at [email protected] with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned watch? Click here. This Week's Vintage Watches Classics are classics for a reason. Today's HODINKEE Vintage drop is highlighted by some of the most recognizable watches ever produced. Two opposite ends of the Rolex vintage sport catalog are represented, with the Platonic ideal of a bezel-less, date-less, time-only watch in a super crisp Explo...

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is returning to Chicago over the weekend of April 30 and May 1, 2022, with hosts Oak & Oscar. At HSNY's Horological Education classes students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to ...

There's "clock time," the objective rate at which time passes, then there's "mind time," the way we experience the passage of time. Children perceive time differently than adults. Remember how long a 30-minute TV show felt as a kid, or how it took forever to drive one town over, to grandma's house? Inversely, when we get older the days seem to just fly by (at least for me). Watches & Wonders 2022 is two short weeks away. I can still remember processing the rise of green watches in 2021 like it was yesterday. Heck, I still feel like 2020 was just a few months ago. Watches are designed to display "clock time," that's what they are, after all, just tiny clocks f...

In Entry Level, we consider the least-expensive watches from luxury watchmakers. They're still not cheap, but hey every brand has to start somewhere. As we've seen in this short-lived but popular series, "entry level" is all relative depending on the brand in question. Patek's entry level would be my splurge. But what if that brand is itself an entry point of sorts, an aspirational sibling seen by some as a stepping stone to the most popular luxury watchmaker on planet earth. At Tudor, the entry level is the 1926. Released in 2018 C it's a simple, no-frills wristwatch equipped with a Sellita or ETA movement, available in a ran...

Earlier this morning, Phillips announced a showstopper of a sale dedicated to celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.? Scheduled for May 6, 2022, at the H?tel La Rserve in Geneva, Phillips' "The Royal Oak 50th" auction will feature a total of 88 rare and highly collectible Royal Oak wristwatches. Phillips is teasing a number of highlight lots before revealing the entire catalog later this spring.? Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402 Karl Lagerfeld Black PVD-coated "A series." Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000 The most historically significant watch up for grabs will be the R...

There are many polarizing elements found across the world of watch design. The degree to which they are polarizing varies with the design element in question but they are as a group, legion, which is a good thing or our little series of Point/Counterpoint articles would have a limited lifespan. Today, Mr. Danny Milton and I are going to take a look at what I think is one of the more polarizing wristwatch design elements: The display back. Danny will be taking the Point, which is that only watches with in-house or otherwise distinguished movements should have a display back, and I will be taking the counterpoint, which is that even the humblest mass-produced or supplied movement (bauche) sho...

By now, you may or may not have read Jack Forster's nice little article about display casebacks. It's well-written, like everything Jack writes, but unfortunately, it misses the mark. First of all, he takes the position that entry-level watches deserve exhibition casebacks. This is simply too vague a POV. ?I have nothing against entry-level watches displaying their movements. And before you cry elitism, this isn't about money it's about form. A display caseback should not be an afterthought on a watch. A brand should not be slapping see-through glass on the back and just assuming it's for the best. And there's a reason for this: not all movements are created eq...

The world of Cartier watches is full of interesting origin stories, and the one about the Pasha is that the design was originally created in the early 1930s for the Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui (the story goes that he led a physically active life and wanted a waterproof watch that he could wear while swimming, but which?was also elegant and opulent enough to work seamlessly with his elegant and opulent lifestyle). That particular watch was lost to history long ago and whether or not it bore any resemblance to today's Pasha is at least for now a matter for speculation, but what we do know is that in 1985, the Pasha as we know it today was launched with a design by Grald Genta.? ...

If Don Draper had been into Japanese watches, my bet is he would've been a real King Seiko guy. It has all the Draper ingredients: It's simple, utilitarian, a bit elegant, and reminiscent of the '60s. Over time, we've trained ourselves to differentiate between Seiko and Grand Seiko. But where does King Seiko fit into all of this? We know all the beats: GS competes with the likes of Rolex and Omega, pushing the boundaries of case and dial finishing with a particular bent for precision timekeeping. Seiko, conversely, operates in the universe of value. Except for a few collections, Seiko tends to manufacture watches that sell for less than $1,000 meant to offer robu...

It's been an entire decade since Tudor released the Heritage Black Bay Reference 79220R at Baselworld. Even back in 2012, watch media C including Mr. Clymer C knew the Black Bay was going to be a hit. It was met with unanimous praise by watch writers and enthusiasts alike. The only problem? They weren't available stateside yet so you'd have to get creative and buy one from overseas. But that all changed the following year. In fact, HODINKEE was the first to break the news. From Ben in 2013: The official announcement states that Rolex has created a new subsidiary, Tudor Watch USA, LLC...

Greetings once again to the Horological Faithful from Hey, HODINKEE, located in the HODINKEE Fortress Of Solitude, in the frozen wastelands of the far north, where the moil and toil of the outside world can never penetrate. We're just gonna wrap that lie around us like a warm blanket.? Anythewhoozle, we've got another episode for you and, as usual, we've got a mix of the technical, the cultural, the practical, and even the (for the watch world) political. One viewer writes in to ask about watch hands C why do they look the way they look, and who decides which work where? Another wants to know whether or not, and how, they can sell off the inexpensive "first love"...

We compiled a collection of chronographs currently available through HODINKEE Pre-Owned, in this Thursday's edition of Pre-Owned Picks. From an under-the-radar, non-Royal Oak (!) Audemars Piguet to options from Grand Seiko, Breguet, Tudor, and OMEGA C?not to mention a complicated beast of a watch from IWC C?we've got the goods this week. Take a look below at our six highlights, or head over to our curated selection of pre-owned chronographs, right here. ? IWC Schaffhausen GST Chronograph Split-Second Ref. IW3715-23 It's only when viewing a watch like the GST Chronograph Split-Second does it become clear just how varied IWC's back catalog ...

The big news from Bulgari so far this year is something very small, or at least very thin, which is the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Ultra is, as you probably know by now, the thinnest mechanical watch anyone's ever made, joining the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch in the 2mm-and-under club (a very exclusive club for mechanical watches, since it's basically just those two timepieces). This year marks the eighth world record for Bulgari in ultra-thin watchmaking, but it's also the 10th anniversary of Octo Finissimo and to celebrate the watches, and the man who designed them, Bulgari has created two anniversary limited editions which incorporate the original design sketches on the dials o...

On Sunday, ABC will broadcast the 94th Academy Awards. That little gold Oscar statue will end up in the hands of a select few, representing the painstakingly difficult work that goes into making a film. Most viewers will only be paying attention to the major categories (if you even still watch the show) C those being the acting awards, Best Director, and Best Picture. This year, it seems the betting favorite to win the lion's share of Oscars is Jane Campion's Power of the Dog. The Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences, the body responsible for the voting and organization of the show, made waves this year when it announced that several awards would be pre-...

As the watch industry explodes, there's more interest than ever in the professionals behind the scenes. This new series, How I Got Here, will tell the stories behind the creatives, executives, and other power players who make the business tick. Click here to read our first installment, with watch photographer Atom Moore. Six years ago, Imogen Ayres was a recent graduate from The Glasgow School of Art with a passion for typefaces and little knowledge of watches. Today, she's the graphic designer behind anOrdain, the Glasgow-based enamel specialist nominated for a GPHG award in 2021. She has also designed watches for Paulin, another popular Glasgow microbrand. Now ...

Omega and Swatch have both been teasing a super-secret project for a little under a week now, taking out full page ads in The New York Times with taglines reading "It's time to change your Swatch," or "It's time to change your Omega." Nobody knew what that meant, until yesterday. The super secret is out, and now we have the MoonSwatch in our lives. And what is that? Well it's basically an Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, but Swatchified. Instead of a stainless-steel case the MoonSwatch is made from Swatch's BioCeramic, which comprises a mix of ? ceramic and ? bio-derived plastic using the seeds of a castor plant. Nobody really knows what that means, but it's provocat...

Ressence is back with an all-new watch C the Type 8C. This 42.9mm case with integrated lugs and a blue integrated leather strap presents a new version of futuristic watch design from the brand that popularized the concept. The case is made from grade 5 titanium in a sandwich architecture and is water-resistant to 10m. The dial features the brand's patented ROCS 8 (Ressence Orbital Convex System), which is driven by the minute axle. The color is called Matt Cobalt Blue and it is crafted C like the case C from grade 5 titanium in a convex shape. It runs on a jewel ball-bearing with what the brand calls "eccentric satellites" at an incline. ...

As part of their newly-announced 2022 novelties for Watches and Wonders 2022, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the latest version of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and it's the first time that this model will be offered in platinum with a salmon dial. The current range includes platinum with a black dial or pink gold with a silver opaline dial, so the salmon certainly works to round out the offerings for this legacy grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. ? Like its siblings, the new salmon Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is 43mm wide, 12.94mm thick, and comes fitted to an alligator strap wit...

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