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Best Super NEWS Watches

For 2022, Ulysse Nardin is expanding the Freak line with two new models: The Freak S and the Freak X Aventurine. Both watches incorporate elements of the unconventional design ideology that the Freak debuted with in 2001, but the two new models have upgraded what's inside. The Freak X Aventurine uses a caliber developed from two predecessors in the Freak range, the UN-118 and UN-250, and includes a carousel that gives it the familiar Freak look. The Freak S, on the other hand, uses the brand-new caliber UN-251 that boasts a list of technical features, like an inclined double oscillator and a vertical differential, that put it in another league entirely. ...

Montblanc has released a bevy of models for the 2022 edition of Watches & Wonders, and among them are two tool watches with a razor-sharp focus on the functionality specific to diving and flying. Let's start with the watch made for divers, the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. The focal point is the dial, which boasts a specific texture that mimics the characteristics of ice found in glaciers. Designers took inspiration from the frozen Mer de Glace, or Sea of Ice, found in the Mont-Blanc Massif. The result is a dial that tricks the eye C the dial is only .5mm thick, but it looks like there's fractured and splintered glacial ice measuring a few millimeters thick. The dial featuring this patte...

All Vacheron Constantin had to do to have a great year in 2022 was reissue the 222, its famous 1970s sport watch (and the progenitor to today's Overseas collection). They went ahead and did it, bringing home the easiest win of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022. But that's not the only big Vacheron news we have for you from Geneva. The historic Swiss company, based out of the nearby suburb of Plan les Ouates, is also releasing a pair of complicated Overseas models, outfitted with a tourbillon and a fully skeletonized aesthetic, with options in either grade-5 titanium or 18k pink gold. Before diving into the watch, it's interesting t...

One of the many interesting and thought-provoking features of the last few days here in Geneva, for the opening of Watches & Wonders, is that I have had an opportunity to see folks whom I haven't seen in at least two-and-a-half years, if not more. This includes, thanks to the global nature of lockdown, not just journalists and brand execs I know who live outside the US, but people who live in the US and even in New York, as well. Two-and-a-half years doesn't sound like a lot but running into old friends means seeing that some people are the worse for wear, some are not, and some seem to have metamorphosed during that time.? It's the same with watches. The Cho...

When talking about design in the 20th century, it's a truism to note that the 1970s represented a soul-crushing interregnum of so many expressions of bad taste that nothing worth mentioning can be salvaged. Like most truisms it's true up to a point, but there are any number of counterexamples, and some of the most dramatic are in the world of watch design.? It's true that lots of watches from that period haven't stood the test of time particularly well, but it's also true that there are some which not only still look good, but in some instances outshine a lot of what comes out today. Among these are the pioneering integrated bracelet luxury sports watches C the P...

Shortly after the introduction of A. Lange & Sohne's original stainless-steel Odysseus in late 2019, I remember speaking about the new watch with a collector I deeply respect. At the time, the entire watch community was discussing, deliberating, and debating on how to judge the watch. It was a fair question.? After all, how can you even begin to appraise something so unexpected? A sporty C hell, even a sport-adjacent C wristwatch from A. Lange & Sohne felt practically incongruous with the conservative identity the Glashtte company had worked so tirelessly to develop and maintain since it was revived in the early 1990s. ...

H. Moser brought a surprise with them to Watches & Wonders Geneva this year: The Streamliner Chronograph "Blacker Than Black," featuring a case coated in Vantablack.? Vantablack, as you may know by now, is considered the darkest substance on Earth that's not naturally occurring; it was first developed by Surrey Nanosystems in the United Kingdom, in 2014. It's a carbon nanotube coating with microscopic tubes that measure just one-millionth of a millimeter thick and are packed incredibly densely on whatever surface they've been applied to C?here, the case, bracelet, and dial of H. Moser's Streamliner Chronograph. Famously, Vantablack is able to absorb 99.965% o...

The Cartier Santos Dumont has never been a watch with any semblance of "wow factor." In fact, that's exactly how it was intended C as the more reserved, classic interpretation of the early modern aviator's watch first designed for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. But then we saw the press images for a new line of Santos Dumont models, some limited and some not, that up the ante and make the more conservative timepiece a bit more unbuttoned. Seated in the Cartier booth (which wasn't so much a booth as it was an entire boutique inside a convention center) we were presented with this year's newest novelties, and let's just say a certa...

When I think of Grand Seiko, my mind goes to three places. First, its estimable mechanical watchmaking, empowered by the tried-and-true family of 9S calibers, the category in which Grand Seiko encounters the majority of its competition. The second is high-end quartz, an esoteric area of luxury watchmaking in which Grand Seiko has few peers. And last, but certainly not least, there is Spring Drive, the category in which the brand hasn't any peers. I think we can chalk up a lot of Grand Seiko's recent success to the consistency of its design across these disparate categories. That, and the unwavering approach to imbuing its products with the Japanese interpretation of craft, make GS appeal to ...

It was around 2018 or so when I first encountered Czapek & Cie's affable CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel and was able to handle a few of the company's initial watch releases. I struggled then, as I do now, to pronounce the model names, but the quality of the GPHG-winning Quai des Bergues, the tourbillon and GMT-equipped Place Vend?me, and the high-beat Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph were all immediately apparent to me. (I remember being blown away by the dials with "Rsonance" guilloch C?it's just beautiful, like ripples on water.) The company's authentic approach of naming all the various partners it worked with to create its watches was refreshing and only endeared its work to me further....

Last year, in 2021, for the 20th anniversary of F.P. Journe's self-winding Octa caliber, the Swiss watchmaker issued a limited run of 99 Automatique watches, featuring a rhodium-plated brass version of the Octa caliber 1300.3, providing a similar aesthetic to early F.P. Journe timepieces. After a successful launch and a quick sell-through of last year's limited release, F.P. Journe just announced its follow-up: The new Automatique. The new model is placed in either a 40mm or 42mm case, in your choice platinum or 18k 6N gold, with all the tangible benefits offered by the caliber 1300 series. It's manuf...

Ok, so this watch is crazy. F.P. Journe's big release for the year is something I absolutely did not expect to see when I entered Geneva last week to kick off trade-show season. For the first time in five years, and for only the fourth time overall, Journe has decided to return to its offbeat Vagabondage wristwatch in an application-only, limited-edition release of 68 pieces, priced at CHF 86,000. The new watch represents somewhat of a return to form for the Vagabondage as a collection, which dates to 2004 but was first experimented on by the French-Swiss watchmaker in the late 1990s. F.P. Journe is also going so far as to bill t...

Laurent Ferrier is celebrating the 12-year anniversary of its existence as a watch brand with a deep blue take on one of its purest collections. This is the Classic Origin Blue. While this is, for all intents and purposes, a simple color variation of an existing watch, it brings with it a bit of personal color (get it?). As it turns out, blue is brand founder Laurent Ferrier's favorite color. According to the brand, it's his position that every collector should have a blue watch in their collection. The dial on this piece is blue opaline with an almost fum effect, where the outer portion is a dark shade of blue which transitions...

Last week, the HODINKEE editorial staff arrived in Geneva with the single-minded purpose of a thundering herd. We were there to see the watches. Hundreds of them, from the likes of Rolex, Patek, Cartier, Tudor, Zenith, Lange, and Vacheron. The new stuff. The good stuff. Well, we saw them. Photographed them. Wrote about them. Discussed them on the podcast. All of that coverage can be found right here. In a lot of ways, Watches and Wonders sets the industry agenda for the year C so we'll keep on telling these stories. But the pieces below made the strongest first impressions. Biggest Watch In Smallest Packag...

I can think of few brands better known for their specific use of color than Doxa. Within this niche and historic dive watch company, color is a genre and each of their colors (some quite longstanding) carries a moniker that is often printed on the dial; Professional, Sharkhunter, Searambler, Divingstar, Caribbean, Aquamarine, and Whitepearl.? That final one, Whitepearl, was announced last July as a new colorway for a single model in the brand's range of dive watches, the entry-level Sub 200. For Watches & Wonders 2022, Doxa has applied the Whitepearl effect to the other models in their non-chronograph (and non-LE) dive lineup...

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.?Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Email us at [email protected] with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned watch? Click here. This Week's Vintage Watches Following a week of new releases from Geneva, it may seem like vintage collectors are one of the least catered-to enthusiast groups on the watch internet. It is in times like these, when we are bombarded by newness, that the vintage team likes to gather around a desk here in NYC and watch a Refe...

While Audemars Piguet wasn't at Watches & Wonders, that hasn't stopped it from trying to steal the show with the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, the first iconic "Jumbo" cased-movement with a self-winding flying tourbillon. Audemars Piguet rightfully takes a lot of pride in their efforts to push the industry forward with their series of research and development models but, as is the nature of major breakthroughs, the fruits of their labor don't come around that often. First, the RD#1 Royal Oak Concept Minute Repeater Supersonnerie prototype was introduced at SIHH in 2015, produced by watchmakers, engineers, musicians, and sound sp...

There's been some talk on the HODINKEE message boards about how I need to maybe stop calling myself a newbie, and I think that's warranted. I mean what beginner, honestly, has monthly dinners with Jack Forster after which we swirl tawny port in our Zalto glasses and debate, as we did just last week, the merits of the Platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Moon-Phase Reference 30020 versus the Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Reference 4261? What other beginner has the pleasure of watching Jack draw thoughtfully on his Cohiba Siglo Three, exhale, and, while gazing upon a cloud of blue smoke drifting toward the coffered ceiling say, "Sarah, my dear, don't you think ...

Last year, right after the entirely digital Watches and Wonders trade show I wrote a piece pondering all the shades of green that new watches were released in. This year, I packed my bags and hit the floor in Geneva, fully expecting another color trend to emerge. It would make sense; while 2021 was the year of green, 2020 was all about blue. And just before that salmon-colored dials were all the rage. But the "it" color of 2022 never appeared. So what's the predominant color this year? Maybe I missed it in all the hustle and bustle of being back in-person. It looks like there simply isn't one. And that isn't a bad thing. In terms of color, the 2022 watch product ...

We all thought we saw it coming, that Tudor would bring the celebrated Black Bay GMT (made extra popular due to the horological stylings and poeticism of one Mr. James Stacey) into the BB Fifty-Eight format. It's a watch most enthusiasts thought they wanted, and one we were sure we would get. As occasionally happens, we were wrong C sort of. Tudor did unveil a 39mm GMT-capable timepiece, only it came in the form of an entirely new watch: The Black Bay Pro. But the brand also gave us a new BB GMT in its classic size and form factor, in a new flavor. If you don't like "Pepsi," there's now the "Root Beer." And if you don't like Root Beer get out of the kitchen. ...

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