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Last August, during Geneva Watch Days, I wrote that Parmigiani's new Tonda PF collection was "The Start Of Something Seriously Exciting" C?and while I hesitate to say I told you so, I was right on the money this time. Guido Terreni,? the architect of the Tonda PF line who joined the Fleurier watchmaker as CEO in January 2021, recently clued us in that Parmigiani has already sold through its entire 2022 production capacity. There's no doubt now C?the Tonda PF is a certifiable hit.? It feels like there's a tremendous amount of goodwill and positive energy building up around the Parmigiani brand. It's a vibe that continued up to our...

While removable and replaceable, vintage bracelets have contributed to the success and iconic stature of brands like Rolex and Omega just as much as the Daytona and Speedmaster have. Normally, we like to focus on the watches themselves here in the "Vintage Watches" article, and for good reason. The "head" of the watch is where most of the intrigue happens. But as much as dial design, movement architecture, and hand shapes were very carefully considered in the vintage era, bracelet design, construction, and selection was an art in its own right. 1964 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 In 18k Yellow Gold...

Okay. I know this doesn't at all seem like a watch-related post, but bear with me. One of my fave channels for seemingly random tech reviews is Canada's own Unbox Therapy and, with more than 18M subscribers, I'm sure many of you have heard of them. Earlier this week, they reviewed a smart delivery box that I think could be quite useful for those of us who enjoy buying watches online but dread the risks of the delivery process. The box is called the Eufy Smartdrop and it's a metal enclosure meant for a porch (or similar) and it has a smart lid that can connect to your wifi and be controlled by your smartphone. I promise this isn't...

Cyrille Vigneron comes across both affable and almost self-effacing at first, with the air of an academic C someone fascinated by late Medieval German literature, perhaps, or the intricacies of interpreting Sumerian cuneiform tablets. The reality, of course, is very different: Vigneron is the CEO of Cartier, the jewel in the crown of the Richemont Group. He's held the post since 2015 (he was Director General Cartier Europe, as well, from 2005 to 2013). Although the impression of professorial introspection is not entirely incorrect (it's not every luxury brand global CEO who leads brand statements with a quote from Milan Kundera) at the same time, he's responsible for ensuring that the behemo...

We're often asked what would be an ideal watch for daily wear. And while that's kind of like asking what the perfect car is for daily driving C ?answers are bound to vary wildly based on needs, lifestyle, taste, and budget C there are a handful of watch designs whose contours feel as if shaped by the rhythm a daily life many of us can imagine. This week, we're focusing on five pre-owned watches that happen to have recently arrived in the HODINKEE Shop. While these are hardly all of the classics we have in the Shop, these are some of the ones we'd enthusiastically recommend to anyone looking for that one good watch to wear and enjoy every day. All of them could be...

Around this time last year, all anybody could talk about C if they happened to be talking about Cartier C were the new Must de Cartier models, or the "Musts" as they're now colloquially referred to. There were three in total: One red, one blue, and one green C each harkening back to 1980s veneer days when the brand released affordable remixes on the hit Tank model in a gold-plated case with a minimalist dial layout. The 2021 editions took minimalism to new heights (or is it depths?) by removing any kind of markings, save for the Cartier wordmark. The trio of colorful Cartier Musts from 2021 While these were neat and interestin...

I recently participated in my first Three on Three video. It was fun! I got to chat with two very interesting watch folks about the watches that say "success." And while I'm partial to my pick (a Vacheron Patrimony) theirs were pretty great as well. A three for three in a Three On Three.? It was also pretty different from the previous Three on Three videos, mostly because I took my shoes off, but there were some other changes too. Historically, the series has focused on strict criteria and strong opinions.?Now that the series is back let's take a look at threevious (can't stop, won't stop) topics and watches tha...

Earth Day got off the ground in 1970, and its founder, John McConnell, is probably not remembered very well by most of the people who know when Earth Day is, and what it is. The original impetus for establishing?the holiday was an oil spill off the coast of Santa Barbara, in 1969, that killed more than 10,000 seabirds, seals, dolphins, and sea lions. Today it's still a day for consciousness-raising in terms of the environment but it's also a year-round series of various initiatives dedicated to conservation, preservation, and, of course, mitigation of climate change. Richard and Pat Nixon planting a tree on the White House Lawn, Earth Day 1970. ...

Can you name a watch that just never really got its fair share of the limelight? Or has faded from attention but likely deserves another look? I asked Jack, Logan, and Danny the same questions to help form this episode all about "hidden gem watches". And boy, did they deliver.? From deep cut Langes and oddball sporty JLCs to super-accurate GMTs and watches born in the shadow of more famous models, we each brought a list of three watches that we think are worth some renewed attention. Thanks so much for listening and be sure to drop by the comments if you have a suggestion of any other hidden gems that we should all know about.? ...

Pacino. De Niro. On the screen together at last. That's how Heat (1995) was marketed nearly 30 years ago. The two scions of mob-cinema are finally coming together. But wait, they had to have co-started in a film together before. And, of course they did sort of. In The Godfather Part Two (1974), De Niro plays a young Vito Corleone? C in flashbacks only C so he was never on set nor did he share a scene with Pacino's Michael Corleone in the film. In short, it doesn't count. So that made (and continues to make) Michael Mann's LA crime epic, Heat, a seminal film as far as crime thrillers go. It centers around a team of criminals, led by De Niro's Neil McCauley, caug...

Yesterday was Earth Day and in case you missed it, stop right now and read Jack's mediation on what it means to love a seemingly trivial thing in a time of great turmoil.? Jack was truly the perfect person for that piece for many reasons, but particularly because late last year, he went deep on sustainability in the watch world. In the spirit of Earth Day and just being better stewards of this planet generally, we're re-sharing "Low-Impact Watchmaking For A Changing World." It's a good, long read for the weekend, best enjoyed in between trips outside.? Shop this story This story originally appeared in HODINKEE Magaz...

Andrew McLean started SeL Instruments in 2013 with a supermarket protractor, a couple of pencils, a compass, and a sketchbook. Now he's churning out hundreds of watches per year at a level of manufacturing that's simply unparalleled in America. Aside from the movement, every piece of metal (usually titanium or steel) that goes into the watch is machined in Arizona. SeL Instruments produces five models, and each one of those models is visually distinct from anything you've ever seen in the watch world before. The designs are informed by McLean's professional background, which he simply summed up as the "consulting and contracting ...

Over the last decade, TAG Heuer has found itself caught between two worlds: That of the deep-cut enthusiast and the entry-level, first-time watch buyer. Over time, it's developed an offering that satiates both groups. On one side, there's been a bevy of limited-edition Heuer throwbacks, from the HODINKEE Skipper LE to various Carrera and Monaco vintage reissues (or reinterpretations). On the other, you can walk into basically any big-name department store and find all manner of TAG Heuers in the Aquaracer range C both automatic and quartz C at fairly accessible around-$2,000 price points. The brand sometimes catches a bit of flac...

The Speedmaster may be synonymous with Omega in the minds of many enthusiasts, and with good reason C it has a heritage and history unlike any other Omega watch and unlike any other watch, period. But for several decades, the flagship watch from Omega wasn't the Speedmaster, which came out in 1957. It was the Omega Constellation, which preceded the Speedmaster by five years, and whose beauty and precision made it the Omega to get, if you were getting an Omega. The story of the Constellation actually begins slightly earlier, in 1948. That year, the company celebrated its 100th anniversary C the company that was to become Omega,?La Generale Watch Company, was found...

This upcoming Sunday, May 1, 2022, will mark exactly 200 years to the day since the Swiss-born watchmaker Edouard Bovet established the original Bovet watch company in London, with the intent to market and sell pocket watches in China. As the story goes, Edouard Bovet was somehow able to travel to China without any connections in the country and eventually sell four complicated watches for prices that would today equal more than $1 million each. It's a remarkable story of early horological globalization C?a Swiss watchmaker, who started a company in London, in order to sell Swiss-made watches in China. To celebrate its bicentenni...

The?Horological Society of New York's?award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is returning to Orange County over the weekend of June 10 and 11, 2022, with hosts Chopard. At HSNY's?Horological Education classes,?students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open?for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you ...

Many elements of a fine watch are often overlooked by connoisseurs or not given their full due. Free-sprung balances, silicon hairsprings, copper beryllium wheels, multiple mainspring barrels, and secure calendar mechanisms all could be considered the "Hidden Figures" of watchmaking. At the May 5, 2022, lecture at the Horological Society of New York, Jeffrey Kingston will discuss these elements and show the importance and value that they bring to horology. Full Calendar Plate About Jeffrey Kingston Jeffrey Kingston had a long career practicing anti-trust law, focusing ...

Digesting the watch world's "new release season" has been the topic of choice around the HODINKEE office for weeks now. As the vintage team, our opinion is so in line with expectations that we end up doing more observing and listening than debating and posturing C we save our thoughts for right here in the Vintage Journal. Lucky for us, the takes from other corners of the HODINKEE staff have leaned in a direction that we love to see. Introducing: Hits From The '70s: The Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222 Jack's pick of the Vacheron Constantin 222 re-issue ?as one of his top picks from this year's show was music to our ear...

The Cartier Masse Mystrieuse may not have been the watch of Watches & Wonders Geneva, 2022 that was the easiest to imagine wearing every day, but it was probably the single most interesting complication of the show (with some real competition from another brand, Van Cleef & Arpels, with its Lady Arpels Heures Floral). The Masse Mystrieuse is a watch that seems exceedingly improbable at first glance and it continues to seem even more improbable the closer you look at it. It's an automatic watch which of course, means a winding rotor (or oscillating mass, as it's sometimes called) but the trick with the Masse Mystrieuse is that the rotor is also the movement. ...

Welcome once again, oh curious readers and viewers, to another episode of Hey, HODINKEE, that freewheeling forum for fanatical and not-so-fanatical horological enthusiasts. Every week you ask us questions and we strive to the best of our mortal but enthusiastic abilities, to answer. This week, we have a wide-ranging spectrum of questions. A reader who's head over heels in love with his IWC Mark XVI, wonders what other watches there are out there that'll scratch the same itch, but aren't Mark series IWC pilot's watches? Another asks a question which I'm sure has concerned many of us at some point, which is, just how many minutes of running time does one rotation o...

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