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Best Super NEWS Watches
Franck Muller and Dupont Release Crazy Lighter Watch
During Watches & Wonders in April, I made a secret appointment on my last day in Geneva. As the very prim and proper show full of Europeans in trim blue suits and black shoes came to a close, I snuck out early on Friday to pick up a car shuttle C Mercedes S Class C to visit Watchland on the outskirts of Geneva. Opened in the 1990s, Watchland is the sprawling HQ of Franck Muller. According to some, it was originally conceived of as a "theme park" for watch enthusiasts, a suggestion from no less than Sir Elton John. When I told people I had to leave the sterile, fluorescently-lit halls of the Palexpo Convention Center to visit Franck Muller, there was only one response: Laughter. ...
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Seattle And Vancouver
The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is returning to Seattle, Washington, on September 27 and 28, 2024, with hosts Ben Bridge Jeweler. Then, on October 5 and 6, 2024, HSNY visits Vancouver, Canada, with hosts Lugaro Jewellers.At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York.Enrollment is now open for the class...
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Atlanta And Tucson
The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is returning to Atlanta, Georgia, on October 12 and 13, 2024, with hosts Atlanta Watch Society. Then on October 18 and 19, 2024, HSNY visits Tucson, Arizona, with hosts Ben Bridge Jeweler.At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York.Enrollment is now open for the classe...
Longines Adds Spirit Titanium GMT 39mm And Flyback To Its Collection
Following last year's introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time in 39mm, the Swiss brand has added a titanium Zulu Time to its growing GMT lineup. This latest addition is similar to last year's stainless steel Zulu Time or the limited edition from this very blog, just a little lighter. The Longines Spirit Zulu 39mm has a grade 5 titanium case measuring 39 x 13.5mm (46.7mm lug-to-lug). The bracelet tapers from 21mm at the lugs to a 16mm clasp with double-trigger release. The anthracite dial has applied Arabic numerals, with gold-plated accents on the hands and numerals. The black GMT hand has a red tip, and there's a date window at six o'clock. Otherwise, the ...
Bring a Loupe: A Tropical Tudor Submariner, A Pair Of Patek Chronographs, And eBay Picks Galore
Editor's Note: We are excited to announce the return of Bring A Loupe to Hodinkee. Making the selection will be our very own Rich Fordon. Rich previously served as Hodinkee's VIP Client Advisor and curated our Vintage Watches collection. You may notice his byline pop-up more frequently as he has since joined our editorial team full-time. A long-time eBay and watch obsessive, no one is better equipped to take the reins and find interesting watches that you might otherwise overlook. In addition to being a buying guide, Bring A Loupe is a look at how collectors learn and think C even if you're not in the market, it's still a must-read. And we're back! It has been ne...
Hands-On: The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition
Oris is no stranger to collaborations. From partnering with sustainability-driven Bracenet to our favorite talking frog, the Holstein-based brand has not shied away from incorporating whimsical design elements into these products. Oris' ProPilot X "Kermit Edition," released last year. Continuing with this trend, Oris has released a thousand-piece run of their Divers Sixty-Five in collaboration with France's Ligue de Football Professionnel and the French association of children's charities CNAPE during Geneva Watch Days. Since 2022, Oris brought on the LFP as a sustainability partner and has been the LFP's Official Timekeeper e...
Introducing: Urwerk's Very Limited EMC SR-71 Uses Pieces Of A Real 'Blackbird'
In 1970, one of the most famed, feared, and phenomenal aircraft in history C the SR-71 Blackbird C had a catastrophic incident. The plane, number 61-7970, went down 20 miles east of El Paso, Texas, after a collision with the KC-135Q (59-1474) refueling tanker. The pilot and his RSO (Reconnaissance Systems Officer) ejected relatively safely, but obviously, the SR-71 was lost. Since then, pieces of the fuselage C a futuristic titanium alloy mixed with metals such as vanadium and iron C have appeared for sale on occasion. Now, they're a part of a watch, specifically the crank handle and screw-down bezel on Urwerk's new EMC SR-71. Th...
Introducing: The Sylvain Pinaud Origine 'Ste Croix' Limited Edition With EsperLuxe
Sylvain Pinaud has, alongside Boston-area independent retailer EsperLuxe, announced a very limited run of 12 pieces of Pinaud's time-only watch, the "Origine," to celebrate EsperLuxe's fifth anniversary as a retailer. While I haven't seen it in person, judging by the photos, it's my favorite piece from Pinaud yet. As an example of high-end hand-made watchmaking, it doesn't come cheap, but it very well looks to be worth it. The new Origine "Ste Croix" is based on the framework of the original Origine that won the "Horological Revelations" Prize at GPHG 2023. The movement has an in-house gear train and Swiss-lever escapement. At th...
They The Monsieur de Chanel is a great modern dress watch.
Sometimes, writing about a watch is less of an intellectual exercise and more of a go-with-your-gut type of rumination. Neither is more virtuous, but I find that a healthy serving of inexplicable emotional attachment to a random inanimate object helps said object stick in one's mind. And I'm not talking about burying it in the "saved for later" folder at the back of your brain. I mean full-on pick-it-apart component-by-component obsession. This is what happened when I got familiar with the Platinum Monsieur de Chanel. I started to meditate on periods of fashion that would complement this watch: Andr Courreges' 1964 Moon Girl collection and 1960s ultra skinny gray three-button suits worn by ...
In-Depth: The Black Watch Case (Part One)
The all-black watch case. A symbol of modernity, stealth, you know... tacticool. A counter to the centuries of luxuriously shiny precious metals. Ok, maybe I'm being a bit dramatic, but it's undeniable that through the cyclical nature of watch trends, black watch cases and the all-black aesthetic in watches have proven their staying power.? The MB&F HM3 Poison Dark Frog, with a black PVD-coated zirconium case. Where did we see this start taking place in the watch space? Well, while many material innovations in watchmaking stem from more technical desires, it seems that the concept of the all-black watch came from purely an...
Introducing: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.1 Gets Slimmer With The M.A.D.1S
It's a big day for fans of affordable avant garde because M.A.D. Editions is launching the fifth edition of their cult-classic M.A.D.1., and it's the biggest update yet. What started in June 2021, as MB&F founder Maximilian Bu?sser sharing a relatively affordable watch with his community of suppliers and collectors via email turned into a watch that has spawned four other variations over the last three years. The M.A.D.1. is a watch meant to be read from the side angle (no wrist rotation required) through what was previously two barrels rotating around the case edge to tell the time in hours and minutes. At the top is a unidirectional, fast-spinning blade rotor that speeds around in circ...
Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz
Hamilton, the king of the field watch. In most conversations with our editors, you'll find a Khaki Field mentioned just about any time entry-level Swiss watches are discussed. Today, Hamilton releases a new, revitalized collection of quartz-powered Khaki Fields, providing a lower price tag option for a go-anywhere, do-anything Swiss tool watch. This time, they introduce the collection in both 38mm and 33mm, in a move certainly intended to create a range of unisex options for a broader audience. Around a month ago, my colleague Mark Kauzlarich wrote about three new dials of Hamilton's Khaki Field Mechanical 38. To me, the standout...
Last year, as I stood under the hot Wisconsin sun on the side of an active taxiway at EAA AirVenture 2023, I kept my eyes peeled on the horizon for an unmistakable sight. If I hadn't seen it first, I certainly would have heard it: likely the only American-owned MiG-29, piloted by American entrepreneur, pilot, and billionaire Jared "Rook" Isaacman.?It's hard to miss. A MiG-29 in the air is something you'd never hope to see over the United States C except in this one special case. Piloting the MiG-29 not only makes Isaacman a certified bad-ass for a lot of aviation enthusiasts, he's also the commander of the Polaris Dawn mission...
All You Need To Know About Geneva Watch Days 2024
It's almost September, which means it's nearly the end of summer vacations, brat summer (just as I was about to learn what it all meant), and the traditional Swiss "watchmaker's holiday." For the fifth year, this also means Geneva Watch Days, a now-annual trade show with more than 50 brands showcasing their watches or introducing new ones. For those in Geneva, it's also a long weekend of panels and parties; for those at home, there are launches to get excited about from Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser, and MB&F (the show's six founding members), as well as dozens of other brands big and small.? The H. Moser Vantablack Stre...
Introducing: Unimatic Partners With RUF And Highsnobiety On Two New Modello Tre Watches
Italian microbrand (if we can still call it that) Unimatic have partnered up with streetwear media platform Highsnobiety and German car manufacturer RUF Automobile (which turns 85 this year) on two new versions of the Modello Tre U3. If you're familiar with Unimatic's catalog, then both U3-RUF should look somewhat familiar.? The Modello Tre U3-RUF-G (green and cool grey color-coded) features a 120-click unidirectional bezel with a tachymeter scale and comes equipped with the two-register dial layout that is typical of the Modello Tre series: a 24-hour register at three o'clock and an open 60-minute totalizer opposite it at nine o...
Breitling Introduces Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat
Breitling has just introduced its first perpetual calendar chronograph movement in three of its most popular models: the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. All are powered by the new caliber B19, a perpetual calendar movement that is exclusive to Breitling.?It's an impressive technical step forward for the brand and one that represents 15 years of progress for its manufacture movements.? From top left: Premier B19 Datora 42; Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual; Super Chronomater B19 44 Perpetual, all 140th anniversary limited edition releases. ...
Business News: Chanel Takes A 25% Stake In MB&F
MB&F, a fan favorite in the more avant-garde side of independent watchmaking, has just announced a significant partnership with the iconic luxury house Chanel. The French fashion brand has acquired a 25% stake in MB&F, marking a pivotal moment in the independent watchmaker's history. This partnership ensures that MB&F can continue its creative journey with the stability and resources provided by a like-minded partner.? Maximilian Bsser C who now maintains 60% ownership in MB&F C expressed that this partnership was a natural evolution for MB&F as it approaches its 20th anniversary. Bsser emphasized the import...
Last month, Citizen put on a truly eye-opening exhibition called "Essence of Time" to celebrate the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen watch. Through the lens of 100 different watches in 12 different categories, pulled from the Citizen archive of over 6,000 different watches, the exhibition started in Japan before coming to New York for a small private viewing, then will move onward to Europe. Citizen's first-ever watch model. The special limited-edition pocket watch made for the 100th Anniversary of Citizen's first watch. While attending the event, I e...
Happy Friday morning, I hope you didn't put your loupe away after last week! At some point, I may work around a theme for the selections, but for now, working to chip away at lost time, our roundup will feature the best watches I can find, and no throughline is needed. On this 2024 reunion tour, we're playing the Bring A Loupe hitsC vintage Rolex, Patek, etc. all with a flair for storytelling. Watches on offer in an auction from our August 16, 2024 edition all found new wrists to call home. In terms of results, highlights were the Heuer Camaro with a Champion dial selling for $11,025 on eBay and the Habring2 Chrono-Felix for Shellman selling for $11,055. I hope a...
Happenings: Nicholas Bowman-Scargill To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
What does it take to bring an old family watch brand back to life? From the planning, research and trademarking to working out how to actually make the watches, there are many aspects to consider. At the September 2024 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, managing director of the Fears Watch Company, will discuss how three British watch companies were restarted by a member of the founding family in the past decade: Duckworth Prestex, Fears, and Vertex. About Nicholas Bowman-Scargill Nicholas Bowman-Scargill is the fourth managin...