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Best Super NEWS Watches
Bring a Loupe: A Philippe Dufour Duality, A Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer, And An Odd 1920s Cartier
Happy Friday and welcome back to Bring A Loupe! Another week, another scattered selection of all the best, most interesting, and sometimes strange watches for sale around the web. To recap last week's edition, we have lots of results to cover! The Cartier Shutter purse watch at Bonhams, the one with a $1,000 to $2,000 pre-sale estimate, ended up hammering for $11,520 all-in C again showing the market's Cartier obsession. And moving through the rest, our Vacheron "Tour de L'ile" sold for $6,479.34 at Christie's, the Goodwill Benrus went for $1,445, and the Mimo for Hermann Horrmann ended up at $731.77 on eBay. Lastly, a reminder that our Abercrombie Twin-Time at J...
If you know Zodiac, you know the Sea Wolf. It's their emblematic dive watch, one that has been a mainstay of their collection and one of the most well-known "skin diver" watches since 1953. But it didn't come from out of thin air. The Sea Wolf was pre-dated by an unsigned (or rather un-named) ref. 691 diver with a steel rotating bezel, steel case, and Arabic numerals on the even numbers.? With all the love for vintage reissues, Zodiac tapped vintage dealers Craft + Tailored for a model to put their stamp on. But Cameron Barr from C+T wasn't content to just do a new dial on one of the existing models. Instead, he pushed Zodiac (pr...
Four + One: John Nagayama C Japan's Calatrava King
The deeper you get into this hobby the more you start to appreciate a detailed, focused collector. There's a lot of ways to build a collection, but for all the love shown to the rare stuff that shouts from the top of its lungs, when you know what you're looking at, it's often the most quiet and demure pieces in that kind of purposeful collection that end up impressing you the most. So if all that sounds like the kind of collector you love to know, then you probably already know the Tokyo-based collector and dealer John Nagayama. I'd seen his watches get shared on the Instagram stories of vintage watch lovers for a long time, but ...
HODINKEE Radio: Special Episode: Porsche Design With Drew Peterson
Today, we're presenting a special episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). For this special episode, we're joined by Drew Peterson. Drew is a dedicated collector of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, so he brought a portion of his collection to the Hodinkee office to chat with James Stacey. He takes us through the history and the evolution of the...
Review of Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue And Chronograph Pink
This year, Tudor has had a way of breaking the expectations of what you'd expect from the sister brand of Rolex. A pink chronograph, a pair of "chameleon" watches for Formula 1's VCARB, a production version with a blue dial, a cycling watch C none of these were on my bingo card, even for a brand that tends to be a bit more willing to experiment with design than Rolex is. So the announcement of a blue-dialed, blue-bezeled chronograph late in August might have been staid by comparison. But that might be why I liked it so much. Keep in mind, blue is kind of the perfect color for Tudor. We've reached a point now where some of their p...
Review Of The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph
Remember Lorca? In early 2023, the new brand, founded by Canadian-Swiss-New Yorker Jesse Marchant, pleasantly surprised with its Model No. 1. That watch was a 36mm GMT so good that author Gary Shteyngart waxed poetically about it. Now, Lorca is back with the Model No. 2, which takes the proportions and mid-century inspiration of its first release and applies them to the chronograph.? What Lorca's Model No. 1 GMT had going for it was surprise (36mm? GMT? Vintage inspiration? Sign me C and Gary C up!). The Model No. 2 Chronograph has something else: Refinement. While it picks up on many of the cues of the Model No. 1, it's decidedl...
Happenings: Rmi Maillat To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
We all depend on the sun rising and setting each day and generally know the times it does so. But determining those times with a mechanical watch is complicated. With a deep understanding of that issue, Rmi Maillat has invented a mechanical timepiece that can display sunrise and sunset times nearly anywhere in the world.? At the October 2024 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), Maillat, Founder of Krayon, will offer a deep dive into the brand, unveiling the complexity behind their timepieces. Maillat will explore not only the mathematical and mechanical aspects, but also the astronomical implications embedded in what appear to be simple designs...
Photo Report: UBS House Of Craft NYC
This past Monday, Hodinkee kicked off a multi-day event series with UBS for the inaugural outing of the UBS House of Craft in New York City. It's the start of a global programming initiative that will focus not only on watches, but also on the worlds of vintage cars, wine, art, and more. We at Hodinkee could not be more thrilled to be able to partner with UBS to create several days of special events for a worldwide audience from our home in New York City as we celebrate the craft and fascination for all things watches.? With many familiar faces taking the stage for several days worth of special talks, the following photos cover the experience, the community, and ...
Tom Brady To Sell Watches And Other Items At Auction
Tom Brady's a watch guy. This much we've known for a while. In December, it'll be on full display at Sotheby's, where a handful of Brady's watches will be a part of its "The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady." Over the years, Brady has even appeared on Hodinkee to pen an article about his personal IWC (a Big Pilot's Watch TOP GUN Edition "Mojave Desert") and chatted watches on Hodinkee Radio. Now, five of his watches are part of a sale dedicated to memorabilia from Brady's career. As Brady has told us, his journey into watches came after his first Super Bowl win in 2002 when he visited Tourneau in Manhattan and walked out with an IWC GST Aut...
Hands-On: Nomos Glashtte Introduces The Tangente 2date With A Brand New Movement
Guten Tag from Glashtte, Germany! I'm currently attending the fifth annual Nomos Forum, a gathering at the Nomos Glashtte headquarters to preview what's to come for the year. However, while upcoming releases will remain a secret, concurrently with the Forum, Nomos just announced a brand new DUW 4601 hand-wound movement, along with two variants of a new and eccentric model: the Tangente 2date. Glashtte is a bit rainy today. Yes. Haters of date windows, be warned: Nomos just released a Tangente with two date windows. But before we get to that, let's quickly talk about the new hand-wound movement. Collectors of Nomos may have ...
Time for a quiz. The image above shows you something that Ming thinks you've never seen before in the history of watches. It's subtle, almost hard to believe, but it should be relatively easy to spot all the same. What's the innovation? If you need a hint, look at the hands. Leave a guess down in the comments. Don't cheat, though. If you need a hint, look at the photo below. Still don't see it? Let me turn up the lights. Take a look at the next picture, and you should be able to start to understand the innovation. This is the Ming 37.02 "Minimalist," a name that makes sense for a simple Sellita-powered automatic stainless steel w...
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds 'Midnight Blue'
While the Streamliner has become H. Moser's quintessential sporty collection, the Pioneer remains another option that the brand can play around with to combine sportiness with weird, wild, or innovative complications. Whatever adjective you want to use to describe it, the new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds in Midnight Blue certainly fits the bill for Moser's outside-the-box thinking. The watch maintains the 120m of water resistance, allowing it to be functional and durable, but adds a whimsical complication. On the dial side, Moser's logo is rendered in transparent lacquer on the Midnight Blue fum dial, letting most of the attention...
Business News: LVMH Announces A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1
After months of rumors, we finally have the first wave of information regarding LVMH's newly formed partnership with Formula 1. Kicking off next year for the 2025 season and Formula 1's 75th anniversary, LVMH will start as a "Global Partner" with a 10-year agreement that will include involvement from several of the LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton and Tag Heuer.? From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1, Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media, Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group and Frdric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches. The announcement comes late in the 2024 season, as t...
Introducing: The Omega 'First Omega In Space' Speedmaster Returns With A New Blue-Grey Dial
Around four years ago, Omega discontinued the First Omega in Space (FOiS), a model released in 2012 to immortalize the first Omega chronograph worn in space. Now it's back, and with several relatively subtle updates that make a pretty massive impact.? That original FOiS was the CK2998 (made from 1959 to 1962), worn by NASA astronaut Walter "Wally" Schirra on his Sigma 7 mission. This was Schirra's personal watch, bought with his own hard-earned money three years before the Speedmaster became the first qualified chronograph for manned space missions. With sleeker Alpha hands and a black bezel, this watch was where the Speedmaster ...
Introducing: The SpaceOne x Perptuel Gallery Jump Hour Limited Edition (Live Pics)
I first met Hamdan Al Hudaidi at Dubai Watch Week last year and even wrote about a Baltic x Perptuel Gallery chronograph that very week. Al Hudaidi is a passionate collector of independent watchmakers, and while it's not necessarily the core of his work at Perptuel, he's an ardent supporter of microbrands like Baltic, Excelsior Park, Nivada Grenchen, and others. One of the mainstays of Perptuel's design language is green hues, a core color in the Middle East and especially important and meaningful in Islam. Their new SpaceOne is no except, with a very interesting green-hued titanium case. We haven't covered SpaceOne yet, and t...
Hodinkee Joins Forces With Watches Of Switzerland
I started writing about watches on the domain www.hodinkee.com over 16 years ago. Since then, we've had a pretty good run. Actually, you know what, we've had a really, really good run. It has been a run that I never could've imagined, frankly, sitting in my fourth-floor walk-up on Spring Street when I first registered this domain. What began as a passion project for me to combine my four great loves: writing, photography, the Internet, and, of course, watches, is now the most widely read watch platform in the world, seeing over 20 million people per year C and at our peak, selling $100 million worth of watches in a year, and over the course of the lifespan of Hodinkee, making lots of people ...
Auctions: Three Editors Pick Three Watches Each From Monaco Legend's Fall Auction
Auction season is upon us (well, does it ever really stop?), and the Hong Kong auctions have already taken place. For the first time in three seasons, I'm not going to be able to make it to Monaco this fall. But the catalog is full of the kind of lots that only the team at Monaco Legend Group would put in a modern auction. There are a lot of vintage pieces, a bunch of hidden gems, and some things I'll have to consider bidding on myself. A bunch of things jump out as worth talking about. A Serpico-signed ref. 2526 Explorer dial in pink gold will get a certain group C cough, Ben Clymer, cough C excited. A platinum Cartier Tank on a bracelet from the 1950s feels com...
It's Friday and, with that, time for Bring A Loupe! If you've ever opened a story on Hodinkee and thought to yourself (maybe even mumbled out loud) "too much damn Rolex, Patek, and Cartier," have I got the story for you. And if you simply cannot get enough of the big three vintage brands, I'm sure next week I'll find one of each. Let the kids play this week, okay? To close the loop on our last installment, here are the results. I am happy to report that some astute collector submitted a reasonable offer and took home the 1954 Zenith caliber 135 for a price south of $3,999. The LeGant chronograph likely made by Gallet sold for $1,029 and our Heuer Monza with box a...
Happenings: HSNY Unveils 'The Evolution Of Seiko And Grand Seiko' Exhibit
The Horological Society of New York (HSNY), America's oldest watchmaking guild, founded in 1866, announces today the opening of its 2024 exhibit, "The Evolution of Seiko and Grand Seiko." This unique exhibit offers a fascinating journey through the evolution, artistry, and intricate craftsmanship of Japanese timekeeping through the lens of Seiko and Grand Seiko with a collection that spans centuries. "The Evolution of Seiko and Grand Seiko" exhibit features specially curated timepieces that have never left The Seiko Museum Ginza until now, beginning with wadokei from the early 19th century to the first Japanese wristwatch (Seikosha Laurel), the world's first watc...
Happenings: Reading Time At HSNY: The Clockmaker In The Library With The Winding Key
Happy Horror-ological Halloween! Last year in honor of this spooky season I wrote about watches that kill, uncanny automata, and goblins of Swiss watchmaking. I featured a recent novel called Death Watch, in which a watch that might just be capable of severing its wearer's wrist becomes the "must-have accessory for end-time capitalism." This year I'm focusing on other mystery novels and thrillers in our library collection at the Horological Society of New York C which includes fiction! Not long ago, I was given a gift of an Author Clock, which displays the time using different literary quotations for each minute of the day. For instance, a line from Sir Arthur Co...